Vedauwoo Gear Recommendations

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Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic
Coffeebreak

Sport climber
Omaha
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 12, 2017 - 02:31pm PT
Hey everyone! I did a quick bit of searching for information regarding the land of the off width cracks but didn't find any concrete information on gear recommendations. I'm a longtime slingshot climber that's done a handful of sport route and only enough trad routes to count on a hand with a couple blown off fingers. I've got a fairly standard rack:
 Hexes up to about a fist size
 Stoppers up to... 12?
 Black diamond cams from .5 - 3
 A few smallish metolious cams.

For those of you who have climbed the Woo (or similar off-width areas,) do you have any gear suggestions that I should be prepared to pick up? Any recommended routes for a learning trad'er?
TLP

climber
Sep 12, 2017 - 02:44pm PT
Tape. If you're new to wide, and to coarse rock, you'll want it to keep the bloodshed to a minimum. Also ample beer supply. Oh, and you'll need some bigger pieces than a #3, or don't plan to fall. Ideally you'd have 2 each #4 and #5, but you can skate by with one and keep moving it up. But DEFINITELY don't fall while you're doing that. ;-)

Enjoy!!
Coffeebreak

Sport climber
Omaha
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2017 - 02:55pm PT
I figured beer was implied ;) A little whiskey never hurts. A drop of liquid courage goes a long way.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 12, 2017 - 06:01pm PT


he, he he.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Sep 12, 2017 - 07:46pm PT

Better take that 4, 5, and 6 cam too!
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Sep 12, 2017 - 07:50pm PT
3 ea. Camalots #2-5, 2 ea. #6
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 12, 2017 - 07:55pm PT
All you need is Jaybro and some jumars.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 13, 2017 - 05:37am PT
Big cams ( generally not more than four of the same size, the cliffs are short) tape, armor.
Sportiva solution pants with knee pads on the outside seem to hold up well.

High tops.though there is a school of thought ( Odub, wide boyz) that low tops force you to be more precise in your footwork. My skin is stretched too thin, and I already have too much scar tissue for that shit😎
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Sep 13, 2017 - 05:40am PT

The latest C4 body glove.
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
Sep 13, 2017 - 07:33am PT
What Jaybro said. Most routes are really short, relative to Devils Tower or Indian Creek. Mark Jenkins and I did a day on the Nautilus a few year's back where where we placed three pieces on every route we did. And they were adequately protected, mostly. But don't go up on Mainstreet without a couple of 4's and 5's or you'll be soloing.

Learn to tape, at least until your technique is so good you don't shred your hands. Long pants and kneepads too for the same reason.

And earplugs for the incessant freeway roar that you just can't escape.
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Sep 13, 2017 - 07:41am PT
I think you just got all the beta you need.

Cheers

S...
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 13, 2017 - 07:49am PT
Bring a good attitude. Prepare for a steep learning curve, a bit of suffering and......forget about the numbers attached to the climbs.
Coffeebreak

Sport climber
Omaha
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2017 - 03:29pm PT
You guys are all awesome. I'd heard a friend mention knee pads and thought they were joking- I will seriously consider some because I really, really like my knees!

Loads of tape, roger. I am doubled on size 1 - 3 cams and will have a single set of 4 - 6. Money is stretched a bit thin seeing as this is a honeymoon trip (and a lot of money has been funneled into the wedding and backpacking gear following our 3 days of Woo,) otherwise I'd love to grab a couple extra cams for the trip.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 13, 2017 - 03:46pm PT
Walking cams up wide cracks is a time honored tradition...just be careful! There is also great thinner crack and face climbing.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 13, 2017 - 05:55pm PT
Jim brings up a good point. There is a lot of excellent climbing in Vedauwoo that isn't wide! May I reccomend Plumb line 5.9 hands, and Spectreman 5.11wide hands to fingers!
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