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Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I would go to Norway to confirm the rating if the place wasn't so expensive....oh well.
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ec
climber
ca
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Plus, Jim would place pro, instead of clipping bolts...certainly raising the grade!
ec
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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9c is impressive. The next time someone does a new hardest sport route in the world it will be 10a.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dura Dura, Vasil Vasil, Hard Hard.
On top of the Dawn Wall, already!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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5.15d+?
Beyond Hard.
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nah000
climber
now/here
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yeah, we really haven't seen someone so dominating and consistently being the one to push the sport climbing grade since gullich.
and like gullich, i'd say it's likely that time will tell whether this is 9c/5.15d or not.
not because it is likely easier, but rather i remember back in the day when they were first climbed and there were three 5.14c's: hubble, action directe and just do it.
just do it seems to have settled in at 14b [or maybe c], hubble at 14c [or maybe d] and action directe quickly became the benchmark for 14d.
i suspect given ondra's combination of both proven ability at consolidating pretty much every test piece 15b or higher, his conservative approach to increasing grades, and the incredible amount of time that he put into this redpoint [something like 40 days] that there is a good chance that this could in the very long 10-20 year run consolidate as the first 16a.
just some meaningless keyboard conjecture, until we can get that go fund me started for donini... :)
regardless... chapeau yet again mr. ondra.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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I can't even comprehend 5.16. I think 5.13 is as high as my brain goes.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Sep 13, 2017 - 04:40pm PT
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5.16, pppssssft. I saw the pictures, there's holds sprinkled over the route--can't possibly be 5.16.
The next time someone does a new hardest sport route in the world it will be 10a.
Too funny...
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Sep 13, 2017 - 04:58pm PT
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So the hardest sport route in the world is on granite again? Haha, suck it, other kinds of rocks.
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HMS
Trad climber
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Sep 13, 2017 - 10:35pm PT
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Nope. It's gneiss. Funny how a granite lover like you doesn't seem to know the difference between granite and gneiss....
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Sep 13, 2017 - 11:13pm PT
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What the what? When I read articles about that 9b+ he did a while back in a cave in Norway all the sources called it granite. Isn't this the same spot?
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Sep 14, 2017 - 08:31am PT
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What drew you to Flatanger in the first place?
I'd seen a lot of videos of Adam Ondra and Magnus Midtbo from back in the day. And just looking at the climbing, it’s gneiss, which we have in Colorado. I’ve climbed on a lot gneiss before. The transformation between rock is really tricky. Right now I’m in Spain climbing on limestone, and leading up to this trip I was only on plastic and granite.
But the way you climb limestone is totally different than gneiss or granite. When it came to getting back into sport climbing I wanted to do it on rock I knew well. And I know gneiss, plus the Hansehelleren cave has so many cool features. That was the main attraction.
And, actually knowing that Norway is one of the most beautiful places out there. Being in that scenery and getting to climb in that massive cave was amazing. There’s not a ton of routes that are established compared to other pleaces, but the routes that are there are really good. No choss. No glue. No chips hold. It’s all natural.
Daniel Woods, back in time
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Sep 14, 2017 - 09:46am PT
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HMS, I take it for granite that you think one rock type is just as gneiss as another.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 14, 2017 - 10:37am PT
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Nice Nick...you must have been stoned to come up with that.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Sep 14, 2017 - 10:43am PT
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Yes, granite stoned...
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HMS
Trad climber
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Sep 14, 2017 - 12:59pm PT
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Most of the granite climbing in Europe is in fact on gneiss.
Valle dell'Orco? Gneiss.
The well known granite bouldering in southern Switserland? Gneiss.
The granite climbing in Norway? Mostly gneiss.
The bouldering in Kjugekull, typical granite for sure! Nope, (granitic) gneiss.
The list goes on and on.
Same with the limestone cliffs.
Siurana? Dolomite.
Gorges du Tran? Dolomite.
Frankenjura? A large part is Dolomite.
The list goes on and on.
Climbers tend to be very ignorant (or easily satisfied) when it comes to the type of rock they are climbing on. There's limestone, sandstone and granite. The rest, what about the rest?
Don't believe the mags or guidebooks or well known climbers either.
PS I have a background in geology/geomorphology and been climbing just about everywhere in Europe.
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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Sep 14, 2017 - 02:11pm PT
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Pink Point = Invalid
I'm downgrading it to 5.15fuknA
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Sep 14, 2017 - 03:14pm PT
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Good to know on the rock types, thanks. Kinda like when people climb on "limestone" in CA but they're probably on marble.
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