Adam Ondra climbs world's first 9c at Flatanger in Norway.

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Watermann2

Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 4, 2017 - 06:25am PT
Good Morning to All. Great Exploit Ondra :

http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/adam-ondra-climbs-worlds-first-9c-at-flatanger-in-norway.html

Greetings.



http://www.planetmountain.com/webtv/eng/scheda.php?idFilm=863&bck=1
_

Many greetings to the Great Mr. DONINI legend of mountaineering.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 4, 2017 - 06:39am PT
I would go to Norway to confirm the rating if the place wasn't so expensive....oh well.
ec

climber
ca
Sep 4, 2017 - 11:08am PT
Plus, Jim would place pro, instead of clipping bolts...certainly raising the grade!

 ec
Hubbard

climber
San Diego
Sep 4, 2017 - 11:20am PT
9c is impressive. The next time someone does a new hardest sport route in the world it will be 10a.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 4, 2017 - 01:29pm PT
Dura Dura, Vasil Vasil, Hard Hard.

On top of the Dawn Wall, already!
D2R2

Sport climber
Earth
Sep 4, 2017 - 02:25pm PT
What is that? Yoga?....The Dude

does 9C = .16a?
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Sep 4, 2017 - 03:26pm PT
5.15d+?

Beyond Hard.
nah000

climber
now/here
Sep 4, 2017 - 05:53pm PT
yeah, we really haven't seen someone so dominating and consistently being the one to push the sport climbing grade since gullich.



and like gullich, i'd say it's likely that time will tell whether this is 9c/5.15d or not.

not because it is likely easier, but rather i remember back in the day when they were first climbed and there were three 5.14c's: hubble, action directe and just do it.

just do it seems to have settled in at 14b [or maybe c], hubble at 14c [or maybe d] and action directe quickly became the benchmark for 14d.

i suspect given ondra's combination of both proven ability at consolidating pretty much every test piece 15b or higher, his conservative approach to increasing grades, and the incredible amount of time that he put into this redpoint [something like 40 days] that there is a good chance that this could in the very long 10-20 year run consolidate as the first 16a.

just some meaningless keyboard conjecture, until we can get that go fund me started for donini... :)



regardless... chapeau yet again mr. ondra.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Sep 4, 2017 - 08:29pm PT
I can't even comprehend 5.16. I think 5.13 is as high as my brain goes.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Sep 13, 2017 - 04:40pm PT
5.16, pppssssft. I saw the pictures, there's holds sprinkled over the route--can't possibly be 5.16.

The next time someone does a new hardest sport route in the world it will be 10a.

Too funny...
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Sep 13, 2017 - 04:58pm PT
So the hardest sport route in the world is on granite again? Haha, suck it, other kinds of rocks.
HMS

Trad climber
Sep 13, 2017 - 10:35pm PT
Nope. It's gneiss. Funny how a granite lover like you doesn't seem to know the difference between granite and gneiss....
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Sep 13, 2017 - 11:13pm PT
What the what? When I read articles about that 9b+ he did a while back in a cave in Norway all the sources called it granite. Isn't this the same spot?

Credit: limpingcrab

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 14, 2017 - 08:31am PT

What drew you to Flatanger in the first place?

I'd seen a lot of videos of Adam Ondra and Magnus Midtbo from back in the day. And just looking at the climbing, itís gneiss, which we have in Colorado. Iíve climbed on a lot gneiss before. The transformation between rock is really tricky. Right now Iím in Spain climbing on limestone, and leading up to this trip I was only on plastic and granite.

But the way you climb limestone is totally different than gneiss or granite. When it came to getting back into sport climbing I wanted to do it on rock I knew well. And I know gneiss, plus the Hansehelleren cave has so many cool features. That was the main attraction.

And, actually knowing that Norway is one of the most beautiful places out there. Being in that scenery and getting to climb in that massive cave was amazing. Thereís not a ton of routes that are established compared to other pleaces, but the routes that are there are really good. No choss. No glue. No chips hold. Itís all natural.

Daniel Woods, back in time
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
Sep 14, 2017 - 09:46am PT
HMS, I take it for granite that you think one rock type is just as gneiss as another.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 14, 2017 - 10:37am PT
Nice Nick...you must have been stoned to come up with that.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 14, 2017 - 10:43am PT

Yes, granite stoned...
HMS

Trad climber
Sep 14, 2017 - 12:59pm PT
Most of the granite climbing in Europe is in fact on gneiss.

Valle dell'Orco? Gneiss.
The well known granite bouldering in southern Switserland? Gneiss.
The granite climbing in Norway? Mostly gneiss.
The bouldering in Kjugekull, typical granite for sure! Nope, (granitic) gneiss.
The list goes on and on.

Same with the limestone cliffs.
Siurana? Dolomite.
Gorges du Tran? Dolomite.
Frankenjura? A large part is Dolomite.
The list goes on and on.

Climbers tend to be very ignorant (or easily satisfied) when it comes to the type of rock they are climbing on. There's limestone, sandstone and granite. The rest, what about the rest?

Don't believe the mags or guidebooks or well known climbers either.

PS I have a background in geology/geomorphology and been climbing just about everywhere in Europe.
johnokner

Trad climber
Omis
Sep 14, 2017 - 01:46pm PT
ratings are soft in Norway. It's a gunks 5.9+
Dingus Milktoast

Trad climber
Minister of Moderation, Fatcrackistan
Sep 14, 2017 - 01:52pm PT
Thanks for the short lesson, HMS.

DMT
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