Big Walls in Alaska

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Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 2, 2007 - 01:19pm PT
Anyone know the name of a mountain up in Alaska with the Big Walls? It was on the cover of climbing at one time, it starts with a k?

JDF
joepuryear

climber
Leavenworth, WA and Talkeetna, AK
Jan 2, 2007 - 01:53pm PT
Kichatna Spire?

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 2, 2007 - 03:16pm PT
I would be interested if I could get a helicopter ride in during the warm-weather months!
joepuryear

climber
Leavenworth, WA and Talkeetna, AK
Jan 3, 2007 - 11:43am PT
A fixed-wing can land there as late as August on a good year. That pics was from mid-July.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Jan 3, 2007 - 12:03pm PT
Beautiful mountain. Weren't Mugs Stump and ??? the first to climb it, or at least the main face?

Didn't Mike Graber (sp?) and somebody else put up an early route (circa 1973/74) as well?
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Jan 3, 2007 - 06:21pm PT
There's about 6 routes on that face, now, all excellent, I've heard. Don't think Mugs ever climbed it, though.
joepuryear

climber
Leavenworth, WA and Talkeetna, AK
Jan 3, 2007 - 07:39pm PT
Yep, routes to the summit include 4 routes on the main wall (1982, 1982, 2001, 1992), 1 on the left hand ridge (2005), 1 up a couloir on the right, then up the right hand ridge (1966). Another route to the top was done on the Northwest side by Bridwell and Embick (1979). Graber, Black, and Schunk climbed the main left-hand pillar in 6/82. Davidson and Millikan made the first ascent in 1966 via the coiloir to ridge.

Edit: btw I found a copy of the cover (don't have the article unfortunately), it was Climbing #75, December 1982 ($2.50!)
climbingjones

Trad climber
grass valley,ca
Jan 3, 2007 - 08:58pm PT
No way. Is this a post from Juan that is not some drivel about some evil Republican conspiracy? What is wrong Juan, did the ringing in your ears let up for a sec? Man, I sure hope things return to "normal" for you soon. Looking forward to your next pseudo intelligent, off the cuff rant about W blowing up the earth to so him and his buddies can get rich(er). I hope you can get out and go climbing sometime. I've got your belay.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jul 18, 2014 - 03:29am PT
There are lots of other big walls in Alaska. I spent some time on a big wall in the Great Gorge. Alaskan big walls are extremely dangerous, big avalanches can literally wipe you from the face of the Earth. In short - yer gonna die.

Yer Gonna Die
Yer Gonna Die
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jul 18, 2014 - 03:47am PT
hey there say, nice to see the new info on this post here...

thanks for sharing... hope it grows a bit more, too...
Avery

climber
NZ
Jul 18, 2014 - 05:09am PT
Kichatna Spire, East Face. 1st Ascent: Scott Woolums (US) and ...
Kichatna Spire, East Face. 1st Ascent: Scott Woolums (US) and Bill Denz (NZ), April 1982.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Jul 18, 2014 - 07:40am PT

Kichatna looks killer!

johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Jul 18, 2014 - 12:29pm PT
Credit: johnkelley

Another Alaskan wall
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Jul 18, 2014 - 12:33pm PT
What's the biggest wall in Alaska? South face of Celeno?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jul 18, 2014 - 01:04pm PT
Never heard of Celeno. Whats that?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Jul 18, 2014 - 10:16pm PT
A peak in the Saint Elias Range, near Bona, with a 7,500' tall south face.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jul 18, 2014 - 10:38pm PT
Its hard to imagine any big wall in the St elias range let alone a 7500 footer. Got any pictures?

How about your above picture. Is that the Mendenhal towers?
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Jul 18, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
Classsic JDF . . . you old trickster you.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jul 18, 2014 - 10:54pm PT
how about Mt Dickey? at 5000 ft its certainly a BIG wall. A whole bunch actually but the Wine Bottle has to be the plum of the bunch. Amazingly its only had one ascent and needs to be freed!


Wine bottle buttress.   Only one ascent.  50 pitches mostly free.  Adi...
Wine bottle buttress. Only one ascent. 50 pitches mostly free. Adi Ogler Tomi bonapace (swiss)
Credit: Bruce Kay
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Jul 18, 2014 - 11:35pm PT
That's the Taku Towers. Celeno has a big wall that's 5,500' + with a 2000' ice/snow ridge above it.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Jul 18, 2014 - 11:45pm PT
Don't have a photo of Celeno with me but here's an 8,500' face. It's not a "big wall" but...

Credit: johnkelley
overwatch

climber
Jul 18, 2014 - 11:53pm PT
Holy sh#t mr kelly! I couldn't believe it when I first saw the Captain...I can't wrap my mind around something as big as that which you speak. You guys out doing that stuff have my deepest respect.

The Bird is the man!
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Jul 19, 2014 - 12:14am PT
it starts with a k
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Jul 21, 2014 - 07:39pm PT
Credit: johnkelley

Celeno Peak
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jul 21, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
Oh my f*#king sh#t that's an inspiring demon! I want to climb THAT!! What routes are on it?
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jul 21, 2014 - 08:46pm PT
Likely none on the rock. Don't think theres a 5500' line up that rock though.. looks a bit smaller than that offhand. Rock looks .. alot worse than yosemite too. But hey what isn't?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Jul 21, 2014 - 08:57pm PT
Jay Claus and Kevin Ditzler made the only ascent of Celeno a few years ago. There's a write up in the AAJ.

Carlos Buhl and Charlie Sassara attempted the rock buttress a few times...

There's bigger faces near by but that might be the biggest rock face?

Climb2ski - my memory could be failing me but I'm pretty sure about the size. I don't have a map with me so I have no way of checking.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jul 21, 2014 - 08:59pm PT
What routes are on it?

the route someone dies on. If you wanna get your death on, do it on Devils Thumb, which is far more aesthetic and historically significant
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Jul 21, 2014 - 09:05pm PT
Mt55401- I guessing you have personally seen both Celeno and the Devils Thumb? I have and Celeno looks way more bitchin. The face is bigger, steeper, and the summit is nearly a mile higher...
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Jul 21, 2014 - 09:15pm PT
Credit: johnkelley

Credit: johnkelley

Some other near by stuff.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Jul 21, 2014 - 11:14pm PT
Credit: johnkelley

Here's some more
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Jul 21, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
Credit: johnkelley

But it's not the safest place...
overwatch

climber
Jul 21, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
I am guessing he was just hating on you because he is in Minnesota
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Jul 21, 2014 - 11:40pm PT
Credit: johnkelley

A 2000' virgin spire

Credit: johnkelley

A 3,000' face on an unclimbed peak
Aaaron

climber
California
Jul 22, 2014 - 12:22am PT
Another angle.
Another angle.
Credit: Aaaron
Would you "Wrather." This is the side that points away from town.
Mount Wrather
Mount Wrather
Credit: Aaaron
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Jul 22, 2014 - 05:28pm PT
Credit: johnkelley

Here's a 4,000'+ face on another unclimbed peak
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