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| Messages 1 - 33 of total 33 in this topic |
JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 2, 2007 - 01:19pm PT
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Anyone know the name of a mountain up in Alaska with the Big Walls? It was on the cover of climbing at one time, it starts with a k?
JDF
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joepuryear
climber
Leavenworth, WA and Talkeetna, AK
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Kichatna Spire?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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I would be interested if I could get a helicopter ride in during the warm-weather months!
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joepuryear
climber
Leavenworth, WA and Talkeetna, AK
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A fixed-wing can land there as late as August on a good year. That pics was from mid-July.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Beautiful mountain. Weren't Mugs Stump and ??? the first to climb it, or at least the main face?
Didn't Mike Graber (sp?) and somebody else put up an early route (circa 1973/74) as well?
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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There's about 6 routes on that face, now, all excellent, I've heard. Don't think Mugs ever climbed it, though.
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joepuryear
climber
Leavenworth, WA and Talkeetna, AK
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Yep, routes to the summit include 4 routes on the main wall (1982, 1982, 2001, 1992), 1 on the left hand ridge (2005), 1 up a couloir on the right, then up the right hand ridge (1966). Another route to the top was done on the Northwest side by Bridwell and Embick (1979). Graber, Black, and Schunk climbed the main left-hand pillar in 6/82. Davidson and Millikan made the first ascent in 1966 via the coiloir to ridge.
Edit: btw I found a copy of the cover (don't have the article unfortunately), it was Climbing #75, December 1982 ($2.50!)
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climbingjones
Trad climber
grass valley,ca
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No way. Is this a post from Juan that is not some drivel about some evil Republican conspiracy? What is wrong Juan, did the ringing in your ears let up for a sec? Man, I sure hope things return to "normal" for you soon. Looking forward to your next pseudo intelligent, off the cuff rant about W blowing up the earth to so him and his buddies can get rich(er). I hope you can get out and go climbing sometime. I've got your belay.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jul 18, 2014 - 03:29am PT
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There are lots of other big walls in Alaska. I spent some time on a big wall in the Great Gorge. Alaskan big walls are extremely dangerous, big avalanches can literally wipe you from the face of the Earth. In short - yer gonna die.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jul 18, 2014 - 03:47am PT
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hey there say, nice to see the new info on this post here...
thanks for sharing... hope it grows a bit more, too...
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Jul 18, 2014 - 05:09am PT
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jul 18, 2014 - 07:40am PT
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Kichatna looks killer!
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Jul 18, 2014 - 12:29pm PT
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Another Alaskan wall
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Jul 18, 2014 - 12:33pm PT
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What's the biggest wall in Alaska? South face of Celeno?
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Jul 18, 2014 - 10:16pm PT
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A peak in the Saint Elias Range, near Bona, with a 7,500' tall south face.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jul 18, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
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Classsic JDF . . . you old trickster you.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Jul 18, 2014 - 11:35pm PT
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That's the Taku Towers. Celeno has a big wall that's 5,500' + with a 2000' ice/snow ridge above it.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Jul 18, 2014 - 11:45pm PT
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Don't have a photo of Celeno with me but here's an 8,500' face. It's not a "big wall" but...
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overwatch
climber
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Jul 18, 2014 - 11:53pm PT
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Holy sh#t mr kelly! I couldn't believe it when I first saw the Captain...I can't wrap my mind around something as big as that which you speak. You guys out doing that stuff have my deepest respect.
The Bird is the man!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jul 19, 2014 - 12:14am PT
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it starts with a k
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Jul 21, 2014 - 07:39pm PT
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Celeno Peak
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 21, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
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Oh my f*#king sh#t that's an inspiring demon! I want to climb THAT!! What routes are on it?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 21, 2014 - 08:46pm PT
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Likely none on the rock. Don't think theres a 5500' line up that rock though.. looks a bit smaller than that offhand. Rock looks .. alot worse than yosemite too. But hey what isn't?
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Jul 21, 2014 - 08:57pm PT
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Jay Claus and Kevin Ditzler made the only ascent of Celeno a few years ago. There's a write up in the AAJ.
Carlos Buhl and Charlie Sassara attempted the rock buttress a few times...
There's bigger faces near by but that might be the biggest rock face?
Climb2ski - my memory could be failing me but I'm pretty sure about the size. I don't have a map with me so I have no way of checking.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jul 21, 2014 - 08:59pm PT
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What routes are on it?
the route someone dies on. If you wanna get your death on, do it on Devils Thumb, which is far more aesthetic and historically significant
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Jul 21, 2014 - 09:05pm PT
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Mt55401- I guessing you have personally seen both Celeno and the Devils Thumb? I have and Celeno looks way more bitchin. The face is bigger, steeper, and the summit is nearly a mile higher...
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Jul 21, 2014 - 09:15pm PT
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Some other near by stuff.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Jul 21, 2014 - 11:14pm PT
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Here's some more
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Jul 21, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
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But it's not the safest place...
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overwatch
climber
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Jul 21, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
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I am guessing he was just hating on you because he is in Minnesota
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Jul 21, 2014 - 11:40pm PT
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A 2000' virgin spire
A 3,000' face on an unclimbed peak
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Aaaron
climber
California
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Jul 22, 2014 - 12:22am PT
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Would you "Wrather." This is the side that points away from town.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Jul 22, 2014 - 05:28pm PT
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Here's a 4,000'+ face on another unclimbed peak
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| Messages 1 - 33 of total 33 in this topic |
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