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| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 28, 2017 - 11:38am PT
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Hey I'm looking for a partnern (partners) for some peaks in the Rolwaling area this winter.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Aug 28, 2017 - 06:24pm PT
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How technical and does your partner need to be an American?
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2017 - 07:11pm PT
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I'd be up for most anything. Anything from trekking around to something steep. I'm pretty open about it as long as it's at least a little ways from the Everest BC trekking crowds.
I could care less about what nationality they are
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Aug 28, 2017 - 08:14pm PT
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I lived in Rolwaling for a year back in 1974 so I know all the people there. If you can't find an American partner, you could always climb with a Sherpa but that would be more expensive. They know all those mountains and have done first ascents on some of them. Try emailing me through ST or on my Facebook page - Janice Sacherer.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2017 - 08:38pm PT
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Cool I'll shoot you an email. Yeah I'm not really into paying someone to climb with me... for one it's out of my budget. I'd rather do another solo trip again if I can't find a partner
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Aug 28, 2017 - 11:17pm PT
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My Rolwaling friends could give you some ideas on that too. I don't have the reference with me now, but the Alpinist recently (within the past two years) published an account by a Rolwaling Sherpa of his solo ascent and subsequent rescue from one of the local peaks. Meanwhile, if you only do the passes there you will have quite an accomplishment as three of them are over 19,000 feet.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2017 - 09:02am PT
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Yeah I read that article. They climbed 3 unclimbed peaks in 3 days. The only one I remember the name of was Thakar-Go East. I only remember that one because I did the FA of the South Face last winter. There's a TR on here somewhere that, I'm pretty sure, has a link to those Sherpa routes.
I've been in the area a few times and have several objectives picked out. I guess it all depends on who's going with, if anyone
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 29, 2017 - 09:32am PT
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Nepal in winer...good on you! Takes an Alaskan to appreciate, or even dream up, that scenario.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2017 - 09:46am PT
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The winters are pretty mild there. At least the 3 I've seen have been. Really dry in the winter too. So dry that the lack of snow/ice is almost problematic. Here's a shot of the Dolambro Glacier from around 19,000' in February. The highs were in the mid to upper 30's at 19k' for most of January and February. The conditions really are pretty prime in the winter there.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2017 - 09:53am PT
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Some unclimbed faces and peaks that someone should help me climb.
So who's going?
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Aug 29, 2017 - 11:31am PT
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I didn't realize you had been there before. The winter ice in the Valley is so good that the Nepal Mountaineering Club trains its new guides there every winter. The mountain in your last photo did see a first ascent by Joe Pearyer (sp?).
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2017 - 01:05pm PT
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Joe did a line on Takar-Go. The only ascent so far. It's the 2nd photo
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 29, 2017 - 05:04pm PT
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One might consider what's happening in Nepal currently.
Very bad flooding, and it might affect one's journey there.
I hope not, but hoping the folks in Nepal are okay also.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2017 - 05:19pm PT
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Yeah my friend Chet said Chitwan got hit pretty bad by the flooding but luckily his family's ok
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Aug 29, 2017 - 08:23pm PT
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The floods down on the plains of Nepal next to India. The high mountains are fine and everywhere will be dried out by winter.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2017 - 03:15pm PT
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Still looking...
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Nov 21, 2017 - 05:24pm PT
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If you're looking to do a first ascent, you might get a Rolwaling Sherpa to go with you. They are trying to make a name for themselves as something other than porters. I can inquire if you like and tell them no money involved.
Meanwhile I was shocked at the lack of snow on Drolangbo glacier. A Rolwaling friend told me just yesterday on Facebook that Tashi Labtsa Pass is much easier now because of the melting of the glacier since we did it some 40 years ago.
It's interesting how the nature of the routes change. I was told in 1974 that the mountain passes had been easier in their grandparents' time because there was more snow. Now it's easier because there is less. It seems that the period of initial western exploration of the Himalayas was during the most difficult period.
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| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
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