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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 28, 2007 - 02:27pm PT
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Bruce:
Fantastic account! I've only heard others' stories through the years of how that all went down, and your "authoritative version" beats 'em all. I can't wait to read your first book!
By the way, I prefer to think that his feigned indifference toward Tooth Rock was simply because he was intimidated...
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2007 - 02:35pm PT
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Mary Jo Fisher, huh.
Bruce, you're a helluva good storyteller (along with all of the other gifts).
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crotch
climber
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Feb 28, 2007 - 02:48pm PT
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Awesome tale, Brunosafari!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 28, 2007 - 02:55pm PT
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Bravo squared, Bruce!
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Feb 28, 2007 - 02:59pm PT
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I'm flattered!
But good grief Mooser and Grug...do you guys have super topo alarms installed on your computin' rigs? You responded within five minutes!? Had do I get one? And later I might ask you how to post photos. Have to go now on a trip again for several days.
Hey Grug...why not mention a tale of you climbing with KB and maybe he'll tie-in on SuperTopo. Like maybe Middle Cat North Buttress at age 15? or Tahquitz offroute epics? Unfortunately, I have to be gone again for a few days. Have fun lads!
BA
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Feb 28, 2007 - 03:14pm PT
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Beautiful story. Dramatic element, historical significance,
humor, humanity...
The poser!!
And remember, he was still in his 20s at the time, demigodly
status or no.
Incompetence style edit: in his 30s
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 28, 2007 - 03:30pm PT
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A well told tale like that is a prime example of ST at it's best. I always loved Robbins Crack, partly because it was one of the few things I could consistently get up out there, thanks for the definitive back story.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 28, 2007 - 04:12pm PT
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Yes indeed, a very entertaining nugget of common heritage.
Bravo Bruno!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 28, 2007 - 04:51pm PT
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Crotch: did you take that shot of Robbins? That's a great angle I've never seen before, other than just the view from doing that face on that same corner. Great shot!
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crotch
climber
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Feb 28, 2007 - 05:53pm PT
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mooser - That's the angle you get when you're rapping off the bolt anchor atop Robbins.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 28, 2007 - 08:18pm PT
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at last. dude, i've waited 34 years to hear the story firsthand from someone who was actually there.....
at last, i can die a happy man.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Feb 28, 2007 - 11:40pm PT
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Bruce,
Wonderful story and worth waiting for. Robbins is inspiring for the way he pushed the standards wherever he climbed: whether it was Yosemite, Alaska, Chamonix, or...Poway.
Rick
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Feb 28, 2007 - 11:47pm PT
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Brunosafari,
Wow. I'm stunned. That is some incredible story telling. You have an incredible knack for it Bruce. Like bvb, I've been waiting a long time to know the real and the whole story. I think my eyes are getting misty . . . that was just beautiful.
I would love to climb "Tooth Rock" with you. Just email me and let me know when you come down and we'll do it. It would be great to climb it with one of the original Poway Mtn. Boys, and one who helped put it up.
Funny you bring up Meadowbrook Middle School. That is where I took the summer school class "The Geography of California" with my 5th grade teacher Mr. Dennis Bucker and Mr. Eddy Lindros in '73, just prior to 6th grade with the culminating grand event --- backpacking up the tourist trail to the summit of Mt. Whitney. Great memories. For me it was Kim Swecker at Twin Peaks Middle school. I was in 6th grade and she was in 8th. I can't say anymore about that, except our hormones were out of control.
I can understand the reverance you have for Royal Robbins.
Have any of you ever said something really stupid to a hero of your's, and the moment the words left your lips you were immediately, desperately, and unsuccessfully trying to stuff them back into your mouth and erase the moment forever? Well, I had that experience with Royal Robbins once. Not unlike Bruce et al., except it all worked out for you guys :-))
In the late '80s, I worked at A16 while attending SDSU, and Royal came down to give a talk and slide presentation. It was a wonderful show and afterwards climbers were huddling around him listening with respect and admiration to what he had to say. A friend of mine was one of the disciples huddled there and I saw my opportunity to join in. I came over and patted my friend on the back and said, "Kevin, what are doing asking Royal if he rap-bolts?" Oh-sh#t. What did I just say? Absolute dead silence and all eyes were starring at me. What an uncomfortable and very ackward moment. The attempt at humor sank faster than a seafloor bottom trawler. The cold stares toward me said, "How could you say something like that in the prescence of God?" I blew it bad. Note-to-self, never attempt bad humor in Royal's prescence.
I'm probably really brave or really stupid, but I tried to redeem myself and eventually I was able to ask him about Mt. Woodson, and the famous local tale of "Robbin's Crack" and if he could elaborate a little about it. He said something to the effect, "I do remember something happening on Mt. Woodson, I keep hearing about it, but I really don't recall the details of the story."
Well, now we know. Thanks Bruce.
Royal, if you ever read these threads on ST, my attempt at bad humor was just that. It was a moment of insanity on my part. I'm better now. I hope you can forgive me. I was nervous and just trying to break the ice. Apparently, I plunged through it.
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Bruno....to me , this is the single best post on ST in a long time...thank you for that!
Like others , my climbing started at Woodson in the 70's and I have always wondered about how the crack that tought me how to jamb, got it's name.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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wonderful story indeed!
bravo!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Hats off to Greg Cameron! He and Rick Piggot were my main mentors in San Diego - still, Gregs Crack and Crucible ropeless is - well - Greg Cameron style!
Greg, I'm glad to see you're staying in shape; I recall doing Gregs Crack with Epperson and the Almodovar brothers - I tied in w/ a one wrap swami so I wouldn't get stuck. Always liked Mother Superior the best of the wide ones - Adrian Almodovar 3rd classed it.
Anyone heard from Rick Piggot? Is he in Tahoe?
What's my finest day at Woodson? Tough to say but the day the Watusi and I 3rd classed Drivin' South in front of some "locals" who were "working on it" with a TR is up there.
Great shots Greg - thanks a lot.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Ray! long time no see!! Hope you are well. e-mail me sometime!MP
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2007 - 01:53pm PT
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Yeah, Ray. Good to hear from you! Seems like our paths cross every few years. I know that last time we talked you had given up climbing. I hope you're over that phase.
Edit - I undestand that Rick (my mentor, too) is in the Tahoe area. Haven't heard from him in, oh, a coupla' decades.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Still tall and lean (RP) last time I saw him-maybe five years ago.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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I think I'm heading back into a climbing type thing - I had to concentrate on skills and finances for a while.
I want to find an interesting means of athletic expression suitable to my years like ski touring...
Hey, Greg, is it true you soloed the Lost Arrow Chimney?
That was the legend, the story about you and, I was always afraid to ask.
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