Some Mt Woodson Classics (TR)

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Splater

climber
Grey Matter
Jan 30, 2007 - 04:43pm PT
Boulder 13:
You get there from the entrance boulders near the entrance gate.
Do NOT go next to the house.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Feb 5, 2007 - 03:38pm PT
I tried Greg's Crack since Boulder 13 has access issues currently. I got my ass handed to me spectacularly. It's going to be a long hard road to get that son of a bitch. I plan on making some sort of trail out to Boulder 13 that avoids the house sometime this season (if I can't find one, I'll look again before snipping).

Josh
Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 5, 2007 - 04:05pm PT
Wow Greg! That's a super old drawing! Done before my guide was published in 1988, in Craig Fry's "Southern California Bouldering Guide," and subsequently copied by every author afterwards. Next time someone looks at any of these guides, cross-reference it with mine, and you will definitely see what I mean!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Feb 5, 2007 - 04:22pm PT
Anyone ever come across a tiny little plaque with a lost arrow pinning it to a boulder (not far from Boulder 13) that is in memory of (I think) Stephen McKinney? I used to know his brother a way long time ago, and wondered if that little plaque that his family installed was still there.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 5, 2007 - 05:48pm PT
Yes Mike Paul, I had some "other" real cool drawings you did during the early 80's besides that sleek Woodson Topo, but shucks, I mean -I disposed of them a while back to keep us both out of trouble, if you know what I mean. Man they were gems. I think Bachar and Fish drew up some similar "Topos", remember?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 5, 2007 - 07:27pm PT
c'mon roy, share the love. post 'em up under a NSFW link......
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 5, 2007 - 09:41pm PT
Sorry Beebs,
They went out along with a super polaroid of The Fish doin' that hang board thang: showing an alarming degree of plumber's butt.
...regrets, regrets.
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
Feb 6, 2007 - 12:20am PT

Eee onk ee Grug, the Boy From Cameroon! That gobbler, Jum, still hasn't given me your phone #, so now I have to get ahold of you via supertopo. (This is Bruce Adams in Redmond, OR.) (Not to be confused with the Colorado "Bruce Adams," who is actually a closet cousin of the Lowe brothers...) Give me a call 541-350-3139. I may be able to get out to Colorado this year- want to bolt ladder all the Kor classics in my boxers and RRs.

I approve of your beautiful photographer!

Thought this Woodson thread would be the best place for my first supertopo post. Do you know how to find Piggott? Heard he was doing stunt work in some of the new Eastwood flicks.

I can easily reach back into smoke-ringed shadows of early Woodson adventures: Blood was always involved. Rattlesnakes, poisen oak, and horrendous manzanita forests were just as fearful as the nasty landings and highball nightmares. Offwidths were tough with our hammers and plastic "dolt" holsters attached to two-inch leather belts, our rack of stubai pitons and aid slings at-the-ready. We seemed to prefer these joys during mid August at three o'cock in th eafternoon. "Major" discoveries and ascents were the results 100% of the time, but we usually were barely able to navigate our way back to the road, much less return to any of our nameless hero-makers a second time. And it didn't matter, because in any direction, glory could be found, or at least gory could be found. Thank God for the large sack of golden, seedless manderines from my Dad's tree in the Poway lowlands.

Kinley, my brother Brian and I were up there in 1966, long before we met RR at PHS; when Denny boasted to him of Tooth Rock while ascending the vacant and curvaceous Ramona Highway up to that Great "Alpine" Massif. On some mornings, one could look out upon a vast, mystical ocean of clouds below- I expect that is still possible for the would-be Woodson devotee. May there me many more. BA
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
Feb 6, 2007 - 12:38am PT

Yea Mooser, TC has mentioned you quite a few times. I could sure tell you lots of stories of his climbing--we called him the "Friction King." He possibly still is the Friction King, but maybe now a different kind of friction.

One fun climb was the regular route on Fairview Dome which we did at age 15 in 1970.

Hope you get down here in Central Oregon with Tim someday. I do expect to be in Seattle this Summer however!
BA
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Feb 6, 2007 - 12:41am PT
Hi Bruce. It'll be good to connect with you and "the Friction King" together. Tim and I have talked about coming down your way quite often. I think when he and I were at Leavenworth, it was the first time he'd been on rock since his accident in JT. In any case, see you sometime in the not too distant future.
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
Feb 6, 2007 - 02:12am PT


Ooooo, Mooser...I was there. I can still hear his bones crushing! BA
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2007 - 07:54am PT
BA. EEEYONKEEE! Glad to hear from you. Finally, another Poway Mountain Boy. Coming to Colorado? No way. Sending you my number.

Don't know how to reach Piggot. His name gets mentioned here a fair bit - he just kept getting better while most the rest of us trailed off a bit in the 80's. I'd love to see some old Woodson pictures - or Tahquitz/Suicide/Valley for that matter.






426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Feb 6, 2007 - 09:59am PT
Englekirk might have Rick's contact info...and Reno/Tahoe locs seen RP's big red rig lately?
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
Feb 6, 2007 - 12:56pm PT
Thanks 426. Englekirk is in Mammoth, right?

Both my parents grew up in Tennessee. Where is Buzzard Point? Near any climbing? How do you survive summer? Ever been to Woodson? BA
Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 6, 2007 - 03:21pm PT
TAR! Oh yeah I remember some of those...A while back Mussy said he still had some of the really gnarly ones. They cannot fall into the wrong hands! Or else they might be coming after all of us with the butterfly nets!!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Feb 6, 2007 - 03:56pm PT
"Ooooo, Mooser...I was there. I can still hear his bones crushing! BA"

I think Tim still hears them, too!
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Feb 7, 2007 - 09:10am PT
Hey Bruno-

Try looking up Doug in Zephyr Cove, NV--RP was doing some work for DE. Tearing up all the areas around tahoe a few years back

Buzzard is up by Dayton (famous for the Scopes trial). Pretty bullet for sandstone but of course no where near the "density" of Poway graniticas. Lots of buzzards up there. Where'd your folks live?


I've been to Sweet Eggs of woodson a few times eons ago, way before "my bros could call with a cell phone". Had high aspirations, did a few standards (Robbins) one of Longo's cracks but mostly got shut down-pawed at MS, Gregs and a number of other fissures. Pretty lucky not to get choppered out, actually. Werd, bvb, I still use "woodson landing" as a benchmark...
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
Feb 7, 2007 - 09:03pm PT

Thanks 426 for the Piggott leads! My parents grew up in Henry County, West (flat) Tennessee, near Nashville. Dad joined the Navy after high school and found himself at Pearl Harbor just in time for the invasion. After twenty years in the Navy he bought a house in Poway, at that time just nothing but small valleys surrounded by boulders. I can recall my first day in Poway at age five--my brothers and I climbed some boulders in our neighbor's back yard.

Grug (eee-onk-eee), also in Poway, actually had boulders in his back yard. In the mid sixties we had several favorite bouldering spots in Poway, some of which are now in the yards of private residences. For any high school kids out there who want to ditch class and boulder like their Poway ancestors, prime spots were: Rattlesnake Hill (by the cemetery), Big Friction and Flakey Edges (below the RB watertower, Tooth Rock (the definitive Poway Boulder, atop a hill just south of High Valley and prominent when driving to Romona), Molar Rock, (South of the High Schol on the east side of Espola rd. School) and the RB Safeway boulders (intersection of Pomerado Rd and Espola). I'm not sure which ones are still accessible. But these places are more interesting than the gym!

I would love to climb in Tennessee someday 426. I'll make a note of Buzzards.
BA






mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Feb 7, 2007 - 10:39pm PT
Oh man, BA, you just listed all my old favorite in-town haunts! I remember the cops giving me a really hard time at the Safeway boulders because of the funny white powder I was carrying. The local residents eventually had it all fenced in, but there were some great little problems in that pile. My brother John and I did Tooth Rock with pins and corduroy knickers, and thought we would make Rebuffat proud. My folks followed our "summit bid" through binoculars in the backyard. We got chased out of the boulders up by the water tower more than once, and now I think there are some McMansions up there. And (though I never knew it/them by this name) "Molar Rock" had some really good stuff on it--especially the face on the southern one facing Espola. I sure wish I had something like that around Seattle.
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Feb 8, 2007 - 08:11am PT
GL BA, we got a few crags with better access and more routes (ie T-Wall). A few boulders, too, but nothing quite like the splitters down 'Poway'. Must've been fantastic cuttin' class for some graniticas---!
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