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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 15, 2017 - 11:26am PT
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Never done it, always wanted to, going up that way this week . Just how freaking scary is it?Clevenger, Higgins, probably scarier than sh@&!!
It ain't called the Hair Raiser for nothin'.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Aug 15, 2017 - 11:33am PT
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It's not scary. First bolt is the only real deal and not that bad. And I did do it before the new bolts were added. If the weather holds it should be a really nice outting. Have fun.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 15, 2017 - 12:07pm PT
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Dee ..... it is not that bad... I was able to rig up a belay off to the side to keep partner from decking, after he clipped #1 I pulled it and got to a good spot to belay from.
Or bring a stick clip...
Lots of mystery about this climb. Some Old dude was out there one time and told me the "original way" was to make a long traverse to the right till about 1/2 way across then go up. The new way with the 1st bolt- you only traverse about 10/20 feet then go up for B#1.
Have fun.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Aug 15, 2017 - 12:42pm PT
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It's not bad. It was implied that I should skip every other bolt. I did, but for no good reason. My partner brought back the original flavor of the route on p2 where he got off route and went way up before finding a bolt.
edit:
Served him right.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Aug 15, 2017 - 12:58pm PT
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MH2--Funny you should mention the lost on P2 part. There is/was an old Leaper hanger/bolt way out left and it was the first thing I saw and went out to it and clipped. Then noticed the line was actually out right.
Served me right. ;-) ;-)
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Aug 15, 2017 - 01:05pm PT
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We may live but we may not learn, Capt.
Seems pretty good to live.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Aug 15, 2017 - 07:27pm PT
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I thought it was pretty hair raising back when it had the original 1/4" bolts.
Haven't done it since.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 15, 2017 - 07:33pm PT
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That whole place is pretty cool. Hair raiser opens with a bouldery 5.9 move over a big hole. Best not to fall. After that it's cruiser for the rest of the first pitch. Occasional gear can be found in horizontals too. P2 is the crux, assuming you didn't biff it on the start. Fun slabby moves on good rock. Risk of a short factor two.
There's a bunch of other great climbs there too. These ar up around the right as you hike up. There's an awesome looking big sport route up there too.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 15, 2017 - 07:43pm PT
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Isn't that last one a Greg B route? the dike pic.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Aug 15, 2017 - 08:17pm PT
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Not this Greg B - I climbed a couple short routes there and got chased out by thunderstorms, only time I ever climbed there ('90s)...
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Aug 15, 2017 - 08:32pm PT
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Munge,
The route with the dike is "Dick Van Dyke." It's 5.8. FA was in the 1980s by Strassman, Ayers, and
Wendy Borgerd.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Aug 15, 2017 - 08:51pm PT
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That 5.8 dike route is very fun. The 5.10 route to the right of it is excellent. But it's ptetty darn hot up there in August.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Aug 15, 2017 - 10:02pm PT
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That moved to the bolt had me shaking. Fun area and a great climb
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AMB
climber
CA
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Aug 16, 2017 - 09:22pm PT
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I did the second ascent of this route in Dec 1976 with Mike Graber and Dave Black. Graber had been out there the week before ( I think with Doug Robinson, but it might have been one of the other Armadillos). Mike had figured out a way to protect the start by taking a small (#5?) stopper on perlon and untying the knot then threading the perlon through a 'keyhole' slot in a horizontal crack the retying the knot. So you had to untie the knot to get the stopper back. I've been back to the base of the route and I couldn't find that placement again. So Graber led the first pitch which I think had two bolts on it at the time. I led the second pitch which had a single quarter-incher on it about midway up. This was Tom Higgins' lead on the FA. It was one of the scariest pitches I've ever led. I got one or two other pieces, but they seemed fairly worthless. I think it has six bolts on it now. Black led the last pitch which is the hardest, but easily the best-protected. It had six (or more) bolts and I think the bolt count is the same today. That was the last ascent of the route in its original state. About three months later James Wilson and Bill St. Jean did the third ascent and Bill added two bolts to the second pitch. So for a long time the second pitch had three bolts and that's how it's drawn in the topo in the original Eastside Guide. Have fun Dave, you'll cruise it, but it could be warm. It maybe goes into shade about mid-afternoon. If you're a real man and wanna stay my friend you'll lead the second pitch and only clip one bolt (you can pick which one)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 16, 2017 - 10:12pm PT
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Thx Greg and Mtnyoung for the correction. Greg, is there a dike route out at Benton that you did? If not, feel free to disregard. I'm clearly not studying my guidebooks like I used to. :)
oh, and separately, long live AROCA.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Aug 17, 2017 - 08:41am PT
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Thanks for sharing
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Aug 17, 2017 - 05:55pm PT
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Remember when I did the route it was done using the original Eastside guide by Al Bartlett.
Heads up and scary for sure.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2017 - 08:02am PT
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Hey, thanks all. We went by there last week but it was way too hot and (I have to say) the moves to the first bolt look scary. Maybe too scary for this old fat dude right now.
Glad to see Big Al weigh in!! Thanks Al.
I still want to do it though, it is a beautiful formation. May need ropegun (or very long cheat stick)!!
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