Matterhorn Peak: Arete vs. Dihedral

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Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic

looks easy from here

climber

Ben Lomond, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 28, 2017 - 03:14pm PT

CMac, Secor, Croft and Roper say just enough to tease me. Does anyone have any more information about going up either the main arete (orange) or the secondary arete (yellow) to the left of the standard-line dihedral (red) on Matterhorn Peak's North Arete?

Photo added for clarity.

aldude

climber

Monument Manor

Jul 28, 2017 - 03:45pm PT

The last pitch on the direct arete is the best pitch on the route despite the superfluous 1/4 inch bolt.

looks easy from here

climber

Ben Lomond, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2017 - 05:30pm PT

Hey, I'd be fine with half a dozen superfluous bolts! ;)

But that position looks spectacular (at least from all the ground level pictures), which is why I'm wondering why no one but no one ever talks about doing it. I'm going to be up there in a couple weeks, so I've spent the last few days scouring the internet for any info about the alternate finishes, and have come up with nothing.

Don Lauria

Trad climber

Bishop, CA

Jul 30, 2017 - 11:50am PT

For what it's worth, here's Allan Bard's Matterhorn Peak Guide:

looks easy from here

climber

Ben Lomond, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2017 - 07:35pm PT

Thanks for posting those scans. I love the aerial head-on shot of the peak it provides. It really makes the route look a lot more substantial than the standard toe-of-the-buttress shot.

micronut

Trad climber

Fresno/Clovis, ca

Jul 31, 2017 - 08:09am PT

Beautiful peak. Here we are kicking steps up the East Coulior a few years ago. Have a blast back there!

looks easy from here

climber

Ben Lomond, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2017 - 02:12pm PT

Sorry I was unclear. Near the top the standard route goes up the red line, I'm wondering about the yellow and orange lines:

Secor provides grades, Croft says the orange line is more fun, and Supertopo has "5.7 cool finish" on the topo, but that's about all.

Specifically what I'm interested in is Secor says the arete all the way to the top is 5.8R, but if about 1 pitch up you the arete you go right to a small notch it's 5.7. Basically I'm wondering how the pro is on the first half of the arete, and how obvious the notch is, because I would be very disappointed to find myself on 5.8R 5 or 6 pitches up a mountain.

I added this photo to my original post, too.