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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 26, 2017 - 05:11pm PT
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Hey, Tacos:
A few months ago, I think, someone posted a story/link about company (Euro?) making a stiff, extended draw with an automatically closing gate on the bolt clipping end. My wife is 5'3" and frequently finds herself out of reach for the established clips on routes put up by much taller men. I, being 6'4", never have that problem. Anyway, the draws looked very cool and nicely made, and I'd love to get her one. Does anyone remember the company?
Thanks!
BAd
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ruppell
climber
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Jul 26, 2017 - 05:16pm PT
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Don't all biner gates automatically close? I know mine all do. lol
Tell your wife to stop climbing things that Marty or Tai put up and she'll probably make the clip just fine.
You can also make your own by electrical taping some coat hanger down the spine of the biner on both sides. Costs about a buck and works pretty well for the "extendo" clipping situations.
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nah000
climber
now/here
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Jul 26, 2017 - 05:28pm PT
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didn't see the thread, but maybe you're looking for this... or maybe this.
you could also use this or this with a stiff draw of your own making...
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labrat
Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
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Jul 26, 2017 - 05:51pm PT
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The first "this" looks like it would do quite nicely
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Jul 26, 2017 - 06:04pm PT
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I'm SURE it's for your wife.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Jul 26, 2017 - 06:21pm PT
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A tounge depressor taped on with athletic tape works as well.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Jul 26, 2017 - 06:22pm PT
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You can make your own with like twenty cents of plastic tubing and a quickdraw. The old Mad Rock Trigger wire biner is good for the bolt end.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 26, 2017 - 06:22pm PT
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The item you're looking for is the "Frog" made by Kong.
I was in Seoul about fifteen years ago and saw a climbing store. So I wandered in just to see what a Korean climbing store was like. Turned out to be like climbing stores anywhere else, but they did have one piece of gear I'd never seen before. Exactly what you're looking for.
I didn't have any particular need for it, but I bought one anyway, and brought it home as a gift to my wife. Sort of a joke gift, cuz I didn't think she'd want it either.
But it is real, well-made climbing gear, and we've actually used it occasionally. Extends your reach by about 15 cm (6 inches) and clamps onto the bolt hanger automaticall.
Just google Kong Frog, or go to the Kong website (https://www.kong.it/);
Video of the action:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
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Jul 26, 2017 - 07:07pm PT
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The "panic" is awesome. It is much lighter than the frog and it is engineered to keep the gate open until it is put through the bolt at which time it closes automatically. Call me what you want to be using it but my neuro-surgeon told me to never take a fall so I take whatever help I can get to put the rope above my head.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2017 - 09:22pm PT
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Ah, "The Panic"--heh--is what I was looking for. Seriously, I'm "the human cheater stick." I can hardly think of a time I've had trouble reaching a clip from the "good" stance, but my wife is often left, well, short. I've put together a dogbone with cardboard and tape that's stiff enough to clip in most cases, but I really like the idea of the gate staying open and closing on contact with the bolt. At extreme reaches, she's had some trouble snapping the biner gate through the bolt.
Thanks!
BAd
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Jul 26, 2017 - 09:32pm PT
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That panic seems like it is rather large, would you swap it out with a biner leaving you unprotected momentarily, or would you just leave it on the hangar. I personally would not use it but I am 6-1, I could seen shorter climbers wanting this.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jul 26, 2017 - 10:04pm PT
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I love my Panic. The draw is really light so I never second guess whether to bring it when I climb, and I rarely need to use it, but when I do I am super-stoked it is there.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2017 - 07:19am PT
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With my wife, if she thinks she'll need her dog bone above, she'll swap it out for another quickdraw. It depends on the sich.
And thanks again. Just ordered one.
BAd
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jul 27, 2017 - 07:28am PT
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tell her trad only, no bolts to deal with.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 27, 2017 - 09:56am PT
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BAd, I made my own with a long Petzl dogbone and some plastic. Put a few wraps of tape to hold everything in place then put shrink wrap around the whole thing. Clipping biner is one of those Mad Rock ones. I carry and use it a lot but usually replace it with a regular draw so that I have it for the next clip if I need it.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Jul 27, 2017 - 03:04pm PT
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The Panic looks awesome and I'm going to order one. I'm short so I sometimes have the clipping problem. Usually sport climbing so it's not really a safety thing but is definitely a threat to redpoints...
I'm also getting a Frog cause I think it will make me seem mysterious and European!
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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Jul 27, 2017 - 09:32pm PT
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An older version:
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Jul 28, 2017 - 03:11am PT
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2017 - 06:19am PT
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That Mad Rock biner would be perfect. I already went the pre-fab route. Shiz iz in the mail. Actually, I know one route where even I, The Human Cheater Stick, would appreciate the extra reach.
BAd
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