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Messages 1 - 42 of total 42 in this topic |
mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 17, 2017 - 01:24pm PT
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Damn, it's been almost 15 years since I had last been to Courtright Reservoir, an old stomping ground when I used to live in Fresno. There was a time when going there every weekend wasn't enough. I would create "soft lies" for sneaking out of work to head there to climb throughout the weekdays! If you've ever been, Courtright is like the Lost Sister to Tuolumne Meadows......beautiful domes on bullet white granite, polished by glaciers long gone. I fell in love with Courtright.....and I still am! This past LONG weekend was just as amazing as it was nearly 15 years ago. I simply wasn't ready to leave. Memory after memory flooded in as I recounted routes I had done out there or simply scouting around. Equally awesome was running into Scott "Loomey" Loomis. He and a host of greats (Herb Laeger, Kris Solem, Ron Carson, Vaino Kodas, Stephen McCabe....to name a few) made Courtright what its is. Routes like 'The Cross And The Switchblade', Carson-Kodas Arete, Wild West, The Gold Standard.....classic testpieces of Courtright, set upon a majestic granite landscape. Scott and I could have pow-wow'd the entire day recounting memories, hatching plans and painting descriptors of places near and obscure. Good seeing you Scott! Well, 4 days just wasn't enough but we got in what could as a reintroduction (like getting yourself acquainted with an 'old flame'). Here's a taste of the "magic". I encourage fans of Courtright to post up favorite memories and pix from your times at this western Sierra gem.
Tiki-Ger getting in some 'fore-play' at The Sex Wall
Ger teases the friction addition
Linda Jarit sensually saunters up The Sex Wall
Linda Lou
Bela Logan gets in a 'Quickie (5.9), The Sex Wall
Bela on 'This Pussy Eats You' (.10b), Tiger Cage. Yummy!
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Jul 17, 2017 - 01:49pm PT
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Couldn't help chiming in. Courtright was and is one of my favorites places, period. First went after the Vermin Guide was published in '93 and I have tried to go there every year since.Last year was no exception.included here is a pic of climbrunride as we were bailing in the middle of a torrential shower on Duzy Dome a few years back. Most of my climbing shots are in a box at my studio, on film no less. Will try to post some later.-lars
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 17, 2017 - 02:01pm PT
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My last trip was 2007. Why has it been so long?
Wish'd I could have gone. Finally starting to feel more normal.
Stoked you got to reconnect with the stone out there. Nothing quite like it.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2017 - 03:40pm PT
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Michele Beaty on 'Anyone Got A Cigarette' (.10b)
Yours truly leading the first pitch of 'A Little Nukey', Power Dome. Forgot my climbing shoes at home! Uggg!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 17, 2017 - 03:52pm PT
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From Spread Eagle...
That's Power Dome, with the long prow, just below the south end of the lake.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jul 17, 2017 - 06:57pm PT
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Jul 17, 2017 - 02:01pm PT
My last trip was 2007. Why has it been so long?
Wish'd I could have gone. Finally starting to feel more normal.
Stoked you got to reconnect with the stone out there. Nothing quite like it.
Munge when were you ever normal....LOL
Agreed it's been too long- 4 years
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Jul 17, 2017 - 08:19pm PT
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Munge-
PM me if you want to go this summer-lars
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jul 17, 2017 - 08:36pm PT
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I. LOVE. COURTRIGHT. AND. WISHON!!!!!
Too bad we missed each other this weekend. I'll post some pics and memories when I'm on my computer.
PS- Courtright is better than Tuolumne :)
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Jul 17, 2017 - 09:39pm PT
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Limping along...'Courtright is better than Tuolumne'.
I love that quote. Courtright is awesome...And Dogtooth too
But I mean only one road cuts through the heart of Yosemite...
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jul 18, 2017 - 07:33am PT
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Nice Dave. My first time tying in was at Trapper, by the time I got back to the ground, I was hooked. Thanks for the pics.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jul 18, 2017 - 07:54am PT
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Courtright.....the best of times......
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2017 - 09:54am PT
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PS- Courtright is better than Tuolumne :)
You had me at "better". :) Minimal tooling, no "racing" to the classics, no headaches when looking for places to camp, no park entrance fee......shall I go on?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 18, 2017 - 11:08am PT
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Looks like great rock.....but where are the cracks and holds?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 18, 2017 - 11:18am PT
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Right here Jim.
Oh, but you do need to know how to climb 12b thin edging to get to it.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2017 - 11:28am PT
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Jan -
Face Of A Blue Eyed Dog??
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 18, 2017 - 11:39am PT
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That would be me drilling the third bolt on SeamStress in about 1989...
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 18, 2017 - 11:44am PT
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My first lead was Drill Instructor.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2017 - 04:27pm PT
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Thanks for setting me straight, Kris!
BTW, is the shindig for Courtright for August 4th thru the 6th still on? I know DaveyTree was the driving force to get it going. I've been spreading the word. Yes, yes.....it'll be warm. Get over it! Let's go have a good time!
FlyDude? You on board? I've got a few that are committed.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2017 - 04:29pm PT
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Going again this Wednesday, for a week!
moosedrool -
Scott Loomis will be up there tomorrow until next week. Likely camped out past the dam.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 18, 2017 - 05:47pm PT
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I'm in...
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 19, 2017 - 09:09am PT
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Some of the Stoney crew will most likely make it.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 19, 2017 - 11:16am PT
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I will be going.... I have Monday off work and I'm thinking about adding Friday to the mix.
Its always fun, even if not optimum climbing temps.... it will be grand.
Anybody know if Scott L is planing on attending??
I would be most cool to see him at Trapper Dome again.
and the rest of you mugs too.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2017 - 11:18am PT
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Nice, you guys! Gonna try and get Marco up there. Sez he's never been to Courtright. I figured Herb had taken him there at one point. Guess not. I recall Dwight saying he was going to make it, along with Scott Jett (micronut) and DaveyTree.
Guyzo -
Scott said he'll be going. He and his wife may be heading up there today and staying all the way into that weekend.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 19, 2017 - 12:06pm PT
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Ah yes, Loomis at Trapper Dome…
I’ll never forget the day. A buffed dude, belayed by his girlfriend, was falling all over that route of Scott’s called “Millions of Dead Cops,” I believe named after a Bay Area punk band. Anyway, after some outbursts of untoward language, muscle boy gives it up and lowers off.
Scott was sitting all laid back in the roots of the big tree there. Mr. frustration, knowing who Scott was, walked over. Standing there all agro, towering over the oh so relaxed Loomis, he went off. “You’re a goddam sandbagger! I can climb 5.10c! That’s no 5.10c, not even close!!”
When he was finished Scott responded, without so much as blinking an eye. “It’s a technical move. I can’t help it if you don’t know how to climb.”
I thought the guy’s head was going to explode.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2017 - 01:18pm PT
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Yah, we talked about MODC and Wardance this past weekend. We were looking at the topo from the new guide. He was saying that its the second pitch of Wardance that holds the .11c/d crux, not the first pitch, which rarely gets done.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 19, 2017 - 01:29pm PT
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Yeah I did that second pitch with Kamps. I'd say P1 has an 11c/d crux if you can make the reach. P2 is harder, Bob and I both led it and thought it was 5.12.
Of course it's a technical move, and...
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jul 19, 2017 - 03:13pm PT
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Yes, the gathering is still on. I have been spreading the word as well.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Jul 19, 2017 - 09:18pm PT
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Hey Kris...lets go do something stupid...I'm belaying!...but would be talked into a lead...with you!...my girl takes first place in the form of needs, but she is a star and if I can make it it is because of her bravery and coolness.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Jul 19, 2017 - 09:36pm PT
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...and oh yeah, I screwed up on Dusy dome where the description and topo don't line up and their one off...mia culpa dudes and dudetts...d.
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climbrunride
Sport climber
Golf Wall, CO
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Jul 19, 2017 - 10:00pm PT
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climbrunride
Sport climber
Golf Wall, CO
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Jul 19, 2017 - 10:06pm PT
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A few more...
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jul 19, 2017 - 10:37pm PT
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Here's a different perspective of Courtright and Wishon. Taken from Gay Porn (maps call it Cape Horn but go ahead and try to say it out loud)
The Devil's Pool Table
Probably the best day of fishing in my entire life. Footballs getting airborne for a stimulator.
And of course, miles of perfect rock, dikes, knobs, pockets and cookie sheets.
Me gusta
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Jul 19, 2017 - 10:43pm PT
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... and thanks DavyT for spreading the word...so cool to get together with "homey's"
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 19, 2017 - 10:49pm PT
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Herb Laeger taking it all in during a recon up at the north end of the lake.
Go get it. A stunning dihedral on the east face of Locke Rock. Yeah, who knew it had an east face, huh? I led it with some aid while dealing with moss etc., placed a two bolt anchor at the top and TR'd it. A great pitch.
Yours truly getting down to business on Esto Power...
What a place. I've never quite agreed with the Tuolumne comparison though. The rock is different. Domes, yes. Other than that? Not so much. And of course one of the great things about Courtright is that the road ends there. No tourists passing through.
Edit re the Esto Power pic. Good thing Barry did the soles on those shoes, that thing is kinda dicey...
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Jul 19, 2017 - 11:10pm PT
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Barry is probably most responsible for our climbing antics and successes
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 25, 2017 - 12:32am PT
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what a place...
we had all of Power Wall to ourselves until a Moose showed up, then one other team after them, for Saturday!
awesome location
clean routes
joyous
wonderful to run into Scott Loomis later that night and share time around a real campfire.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 25, 2017 - 08:16am PT
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Good to see Bela out again!
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2017 - 08:40am PT
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Good to see you and Brandon getting some NotPower Dome projects done, Daniel. Needs more attention.
Glad to see Bela and Linda, as usual. Did Alison end up coming?
Flydude......feel like doing a long day that weekend? Nahmeen?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 25, 2017 - 08:55am PT
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ED.... nice shots!
LC... Flying Footballs!!! Yes!
Climbrunride.....now that's a camp cook, six gun and all! How are the pancakes?
Courtright porn... need more.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2017 - 09:31am PT
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jul 25, 2017 - 11:12am PT
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Dwight, I was just going to have everyone camp off the road where it curves to the north side of Power Dome unless you or someone else has a better spot. Figuring we can all set up and gather in the evenings for lies and libations around the fire.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 25, 2017 - 02:02pm PT
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Have a great time....hopefully enough libations will be consumed so that you won't let the truth get in the way of a good story.
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