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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 12, 2017 - 06:12pm PT
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Hi everybody.
I haven't been to the Hulk for a few years now.
We are interested in rapping the route when done. I've never done this. Can anyone who's climbed it recently give me the latest BEST beta on getting this done -- including any caveats?
Nothing beats GREAT BETA! from the seasoned or experienced.
In your experience, is it best to rap with one rope or two?
We have 60, 70 and 80m ropes as options.
This time we are thinking C2C.
Thanks!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 12, 2017 - 06:13pm PT
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70 meter rope will get it done.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2017 - 06:19pm PT
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Donini, thank you.
So if you and I were climbing it this Sat, Woot! you'd feel no inclination really for taking two ropes. Just the ONE 70m is your "best practices" all things considered.
I hope to see your presentation Latok 1 at High Altitude Fitness in Incline Village this coming Fall Winter season. Moose tells me this might happen!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 12, 2017 - 06:33pm PT
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The first time I did it I traversed the ridge to the Red Dihedral and downclimbed the gulley. The second time I rapped from the top of the route....preferred option. I left a piece behind but I think I had a 60 meter rope. My memory isn't perfect in this regard...wait for more beta. Even if you need to bring the 80 it would be much better than two ropes.
Absolutely super climb! If you traverse low below the roof on the first 5.11 section it isn't 5.11. The second 5.11 section is essentially one or two moves and well protected. The rock is fabulous, the climbing is engaging and the setting is awesome.
Bring mosquito repellent.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 12, 2017 - 06:44pm PT
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As I recall you are not rapping the route....you're a bit to the climbers right.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
CA
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Jul 12, 2017 - 08:37pm PT
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It's set up to rap with a 70m, not on the route, the gulley is faster.
Only reason to rap is bad knees, really bad.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 12, 2017 - 08:42pm PT
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Just wait till they kill someone knocking off something on the way down ....
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 12, 2017 - 10:20pm PT
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The route you are repelling is venture, for most of the way down. To find the raps scramble right. Rap stations will be just off the edge. With a 70 it is very doable but very close on a few raps, so be careful and don't skip stations unless you see that it will reach the one after. Crux of the raps is near the ground, on the last rap, you are close to the start of PV. And the crux is not getting the rope stuck on the blocks near the middle of the first pitch. It is not too hard to scramble up and downclimb without a belay, but at the end of the day, downclimbing 5.9 or 10a without a rope is not ideal. C2c is a great idea but start early and think of other options in case PV is a traffic jam.
Escape from Poland is a great option. Tradewinds is incredible and so is Sunspot. Have funnn!!!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2017 - 06:16am PT
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Thanks everybody,
Just the sort of additional beta I was seeking!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jul 13, 2017 - 09:50am PT
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Take the 80, safer, skip a short rap, its worth it.
When are you headed up there? I'll be there next tues wed
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2017 - 06:17pm PT
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Hey Hardmen,
Snowhazed, partner has an 80 but it's only 9.1, yikes! So I think we'll be taking the 70. We'll be there Sat.
Jebus, you're missed at Woodfords, you always had the most interesting beta and commentary!
Hoping it won't be crowded.
"I have to disagree... about setting up the intermediate belay on the crux pitch (P6). That's one of the coolest pitches I've ever done, and breaking it up would be a real shame. The gear is good for the final crux, and rope drag isn't that bad. Plus the belay ledge right after the crux is really neat." DT, mt project
"For maximum fun and minimum belaying: link 1 and 2, 3 and 4, (either to intermediate rappel anchor in chimney or a bit of simuling to higher anchor) and 5 and 6. Pitch out 7 and 8." Max, mt proj
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=896599&msg=2187661#msg2187661
http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2013/06/incredible-hulk-positive-vibrations-and.html
Moosedrool, that's funny!
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2776194/Positive-Vibrations
"I tried to do the crux pitch as one pitch whereas some people recommend breaking it into two. I fell at the last move of the crux pitch because of rope drag. I would highly recommend breaking it into 2 if you want the onsight and no rope drag on the beautiful steep exposed crux pitch!" -enjoi
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Jul 14, 2017 - 02:47pm PT
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Useless with out photos ;)
4 th pitch I think?
70m works well
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Friend
climber
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Jul 14, 2017 - 02:56pm PT
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This is a cool thread. Climbers talking about an actual rock climb. What a concept. I think I like it.
Tom near the end of a fine onsight, photo by me
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Jul 14, 2017 - 03:00pm PT
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You got it Friend
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pvalchev
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Jul 14, 2017 - 04:29pm PT
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I've done it a couple of times and would take the 80 myself. With a 70 I remember it was uncomfortable at one spot but just be extra careful.
Here's a photo of the crux I took of another party while rappelling (as mentioned you rappel the venturi, make sure nobody is climbing below you, if somebody is, be courteous and wait for them, etc)
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Friend
climber
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Jul 14, 2017 - 04:41pm PT
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Awesome photos!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 14, 2017 - 05:49pm PT
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Nice photos....I remember first climbing there nearly twenty years ago when it was under the radar...pure bliss! Now it feels like Chamonix in August.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Jul 15, 2017 - 01:32am PT
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Clearly Footloose will be climbing or still walking (or having just looked at the local time, still asleep) as I type but it'd be interesting to hear what he has to say.
I climbed PV 5 years ago and rapped down Venturi. The top anchors are just right of the PV top out. Our first rap, we rapped down past a small blocky ledge with a couple of manky nuts in a crack, to the first bolted anchor, I'm guessing 15 - 20' or so beneath the ledge. When we pulled the rope it wrapped itself around the blocks on the ledge and jammed (we were actually warned this could happen!). I climbed/aided back up to the blocky ledge, freed the rope and backed the crappy nuts up with another not-so-great nut and rapped back down, my partner belayed on our second rope through the gear I'd aided up on, in case the temp anchor ripped. This cost us time and we got to the ground just as it got pitch dark. Of course it could be that someone has now pulled these blocks off or indeed that there's now a bolted anchor/good nut anchor on this ledge, but if not, and you go to the first bolted anchor as we did, I'd recommend giving the rope a good outward pull as it starts to fall to prevent it getting stuck on the ledge. All the other raps were fine.
Our last rap to the ground was from a bolted anchor with a bit of tape joining the bolts, to the right of our first pitch.
Oh, and the 5.11 cruxes aren't the cruxes at all!
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jul 17, 2017 - 07:07pm PT
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Hey footy, good to see you posting again. Have fun sir, send
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jul 20, 2017 - 02:36pm PT
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I know that Donini has always been salty regarding the hulk, but it was truly amazing how many people were lined up for pv on Tues and Wed. Then again it's the best alpine 5.10 in the Sierra
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