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| Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic |
johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 12, 2017 - 03:32pm PT
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This has probably already been covered earlier, but I could not find it in a search. At any rate, a good piece of writing and well worth the cost of the mag.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Jul 12, 2017 - 08:41pm PT
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A great read. Nice job, Ricky!
Thanks so much johntp for posting this up!!!
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Jul 12, 2017 - 08:46pm PT
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nice one Rick
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L
climber
Just Livin' the Dream...
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Jul 12, 2017 - 09:16pm PT
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Very moving story, Rick.
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Jul 13, 2017 - 09:04am PT
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Accomazzo delivers another well crafted and poignant recollection of experiences interwoven by circumstance.
Thank you, Rick.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Jul 13, 2017 - 01:36pm PT
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great story Rick
maybe you can fill us in on the "Bob Locke Memorial Route"
I heard that Bridwell spied the cracks on the route from a heli during the rescue
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 13, 2017 - 03:05pm PT
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Thanks everyone for the comments! The illustrations by Andreas Schmidt were a nice surprise and added much to the final product.
Honored to have the story appear in the same issue as the eulogies for Royal Robbins.
Craig,
I wasn't on the BLMR and would love for Largo to tell that story. For that matter, I'd love to hear about anyone repeating the route.
Bridwell wasn't on the Locke rescue, so that's not where that idea came from.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jul 13, 2017 - 03:20pm PT
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Great story. Rick is growing into a formidable story teller.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Jul 13, 2017 - 04:31pm PT
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Very nicely done Rick. Thank you for sharing this story.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Jul 15, 2017 - 08:12am PT
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I did a Google search on the Bob Locke route
now I remember where I saw the Bridwell reference, there was a whole thread on the route!!
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/444343/Bob-Locke-Memorial-Buttress-Mt-Watkins-Story
and RickA posted on it
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2007 - 12:46am PT
Bob Locke Memorial Buttress, Grade VI, 5.11b, A4, 1978, Jim Bridwell, Ron Kauk, John Long, Kim Schmitz
HEY Largo! What's the scoop on this sleeper route?
Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Mar 20, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
I'm swamped with work. But I can scribble stuff down here in installments and maybe flesh out a story over the next few weeks. The saga surrounding the BLMB was a big one involving various attempts owing to fantastic circumstances and ending with us (Jim Bridwell, Ron Kauk, Kim Schmitz, and I) getting fried alive on the bone-white face in withering August heat.
Bridwell first spotted the line from a helicopter just after a rescue on Half Dome. According to Rick Accomazzo, the Bird instructed the pilot to do not just fly by on the 2,500 foot upper wall of Watkins, but to actually hove to close enough for the Bird to check out various cracks and features and to comprehensively piece together the line. Supposedly took an hour of hoovering up and down the wall during which they got close enough for Jim to nearly reach out and hammer a peg or two into the "All Time Knifeblade Crack," one of the greatest aid fissures in Yosemite.
Anyhow, a year or so later, Jim, Kim and I went up there to make the first push. And you wouldn't believe what happened . . .
TBC . . .
Largo never followed up
maybe we can get him to finish up on this teaser - "And you wouldn't believe what happened . . . "
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Jul 15, 2017 - 10:15pm PT
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Great piece Rick. Looking forward to more!
TY
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 17, 2017 - 07:44am PT
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Thanks guys!
Tami- Compared to other pieces for Alpinist, Katie had few edits on this one. It seems that I am writing more to Katie’s style, or Katie is tolerating mine better :)
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 17, 2017 - 12:03pm PT
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A fine piece of writing, Rick!
Thanks for putting that down on 'paper'.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Jul 17, 2017 - 02:30pm PT
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"Comment is free, but facts are sacred".
C.P. Scott, long time editor of the Manchester Guardian (now The Guardian), one of the leading English language newspapers of the world. https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2002/nov/29/1
Katie and crew are equally punctilious when it comes to the facts. Not much surprise that Rick encountered relatively little editing, as facts were his business as a lawyer. I experienced the same in my small writings for Alpinist - a story is fine, but it better be based on fact, and recognize perspective and historiography.
Rick's article on the death of Bob Locke not only clearly recounts the events and people - from his perspective - it also offers a snapshot of Yosemite life at the time. I was staying in Camp 4 at the time of the accident and recovery, and the effect on the atmosphere in the camp was palpable.
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Double D
climber
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Jul 17, 2017 - 03:09pm PT
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Great read, thanks Ricky A.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jul 19, 2017 - 04:58pm PT
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A first-rate story; a story worth telling and a story well-told.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 20, 2017 - 05:16am PT
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Superb, couldn't put it down!
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Spencer Lennard
Trad climber
Williams, Oregon
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Jul 22, 2017 - 09:31pm PT
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Great story!
thank you Ricky
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega
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Jul 25, 2017 - 12:32am PT
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Thanks for this piece, Rick. It really resonated.
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