RickA in Alpinist 58


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Trad climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 12, 2017 - 03:32pm PT
This has probably already been covered earlier, but I could not find it in a search. At any rate, a good piece of writing and well worth the cost of the mag.

right here, right now
Jul 12, 2017 - 08:30pm PT

Good stuff!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Jul 12, 2017 - 08:41pm PT
A great read. Nice job, Ricky!

Thanks so much johntp for posting this up!!!

Ice climber
mogollon rim
Jul 12, 2017 - 08:46pm PT
nice one Rick

Just Livin' the Dream...
Jul 12, 2017 - 09:16pm PT
Very moving story, Rick.

The state of quantum flux
Jul 13, 2017 - 09:04am PT
Accomazzo delivers another well crafted and poignant recollection of experiences interwoven by circumstance.

Thank you, Rick.
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
Jul 13, 2017 - 01:36pm PT
great story Rick

maybe you can fill us in on the "Bob Locke Memorial Route"

I heard that Bridwell spied the cracks on the route from a heli during the rescue
Rick A

Boulder, Colorado
Jul 13, 2017 - 03:05pm PT
Thanks everyone for the comments! The illustrations by Andreas Schmidt were a nice surprise and added much to the final product.

Honored to have the story appear in the same issue as the eulogies for Royal Robbins.


I wasn't on the BLMR and would love for Largo to tell that story. For that matter, I'd love to hear about anyone repeating the route.

Bridwell wasn't on the Locke rescue, so that's not where that idea came from.


Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Jul 13, 2017 - 03:20pm PT
Great story. Rick is growing into a formidable story teller.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
Jul 13, 2017 - 04:31pm PT
Very nicely done Rick. Thank you for sharing this story.
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
Jul 15, 2017 - 08:12am PT
I did a Google search on the Bob Locke route

now I remember where I saw the Bridwell reference, there was a whole thread on the route!!


and RickA posted on it

Jerry Dodrill

Bodega, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2007 - 12:46am PT
Bob Locke Memorial Buttress, Grade VI, 5.11b, A4, 1978, Jim Bridwell, Ron Kauk, John Long, Kim Schmitz

HEY Largo! What's the scoop on this sleeper route?

Sport climber

The Big Wide Open Face

Mar 20, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
I'm swamped with work. But I can scribble stuff down here in installments and maybe flesh out a story over the next few weeks. The saga surrounding the BLMB was a big one involving various attempts owing to fantastic circumstances and ending with us (Jim Bridwell, Ron Kauk, Kim Schmitz, and I) getting fried alive on the bone-white face in withering August heat.

Bridwell first spotted the line from a helicopter just after a rescue on Half Dome. According to Rick Accomazzo, the Bird instructed the pilot to do not just fly by on the 2,500 foot upper wall of Watkins, but to actually hove to close enough for the Bird to check out various cracks and features and to comprehensively piece together the line. Supposedly took an hour of hoovering up and down the wall during which they got close enough for Jim to nearly reach out and hammer a peg or two into the "All Time Knifeblade Crack," one of the greatest aid fissures in Yosemite.

Anyhow, a year or so later, Jim, Kim and I went up there to make the first push. And you wouldn't believe what happened . . .
TBC . . .

Largo never followed up
maybe we can get him to finish up on this teaser - "And you wouldn't believe what happened . . . "

Social climber
Jul 15, 2017 - 02:45pm PT
Agree with the rest on this thread; very nice writing Rick. Seems to have the hand of Ives on the edit :-)

She who makes us clear and sharp!


Social climber
State of decay
Jul 15, 2017 - 10:15pm PT
Great piece Rick. Looking forward to more!
Rick A

Boulder, Colorado
Jul 17, 2017 - 07:44am PT
Thanks guys!

Tami- Compared to other pieces for Alpinist, Katie had few edits on this one. It seems that I am writing more to Katie’s style, or Katie is tolerating mine better :)

Social climber
Jul 17, 2017 - 09:24am PT
That's awesome Rick. I would say that's my experience as well. I find she has sharpened my writing ( it needed it ! ) and I have a stronger sense of being able to write what I want.

I've read people complain about this ; they say she is too strong in her editing.You're never going to please all the writers all the time - climbers particularly :-D .

I feel it's a great learning experience. I've never considered myself " a writer " but it has been great to have some writing published.

Looking forward to more of your writing !

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Jul 17, 2017 - 12:03pm PT
A fine piece of writing, Rick!

Thanks for putting that down on 'paper'.
Mighty Hiker

Outside the Asylum
Jul 17, 2017 - 02:30pm PT
"Comment is free, but facts are sacred".

C.P. Scott, long time editor of the Manchester Guardian (now The Guardian), one of the leading English language newspapers of the world. https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2002/nov/29/1

Katie and crew are equally punctilious when it comes to the facts. Not much surprise that Rick encountered relatively little editing, as facts were his business as a lawyer. I experienced the same in my small writings for Alpinist - a story is fine, but it better be based on fact, and recognize perspective and historiography.

Rick's article on the death of Bob Locke not only clearly recounts the events and people - from his perspective - it also offers a snapshot of Yosemite life at the time. I was staying in Camp 4 at the time of the accident and recovery, and the effect on the atmosphere in the camp was palpable.
Double D

Jul 17, 2017 - 03:09pm PT
Great read, thanks Ricky A.

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Jul 19, 2017 - 04:58pm PT
A first-rate story; a story worth telling and a story well-told.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 20, 2017 - 05:16am PT
Superb, couldn't put it down!
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