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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 9, 2017 - 12:48pm PT
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Hey all,
So I'm dorking out a bit and thinking that since I'm not climbing that hard I'd climb a lot. In that spirit I was going to link a bunch of the lovers leap Area formations in long day of moderate madness.
Routes on hogs back, hogwild, lower buttress, main wall, east wall all seem obvious. Here's where I'm curious.
South face of hogs wild (peanut brittle), any other better routes?
The box- show me a moderate!!!
Dear John butttess- best of the moderates and is their something longert than the one pitch 8s
Hanna's hideout- never even heard of this till I started researching.
Thanks for any help!!!
Clustiere :-)
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slobmonster
Trad climber
SF (via NH & CO)
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Talk to Caughtinside
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chipper_shredder
Social climber
outinthecuts
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I have always enjoyed Lady bug / Craven image (5.7) finish dead tree direct
-far lookers right west wall, takes a proud line up the wall & has fantastic views
Great route and very disappointing it did not make it into supertaco Tahoe book
Especially on busy days it makes a good backup when corragation is swamped,
rather than walking back down, as many do...BC they don't know...
& like most LL routes needs traffic to stay clean,
It does have a bouldery start w consequences.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1238740/Beta-Photos-of-Craven-Image-or-Lady-Bug-at-the-Leap
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Honkey Toast on Hogsback, river side of things pretty close to the campground. Starts in a right facing dihedral that gives way to amazing slab moves. Maybe a half dozen ascents?
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Wow moof!
Tads honkey toast is obscure for sure. I think tad dislocated his ankle in a fall while drilling, then when the rope came taught (Clance belay) it popped back into place.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Seeing him hang off the drill when his hook popped, then take the whip, finally taking another whip to retrieve the infernal thing from about the third/fourth bolt hole was entertaining in a cringe worthy way. Good times. Missed the ankle incident though.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jul 10, 2017 - 07:58am PT
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There's a route on Shady Lady Buttress that really sucks, for the obscuranta collectors. 5.8m for mossy.
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Jul 10, 2017 - 12:31pm PT
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Another her route ?: I saw a bolted route just to the left of "It's better with bacon". What's the scoop on that one? Thanks...
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 10, 2017 - 05:47pm PT
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Macnamara did a parallel route to the right of better with bacon, the name escapes me.
Not sure what the one to the left is, not much room there.
Edit-
Swine line:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/91279/Help-me-name-a-new-route-at-Lovers-Leap-on-Hogsback
I did another route called "unemployment line 5.9". 150' or so east of burning tree wall (lake of fire route noted above)
3 bolts finishing in an overhanging 5.8 hand crack.
Tons of stuff to do on the satellite cliffs.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Jul 10, 2017 - 09:47pm PT
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I've heard there is an obscure line called Bears Reach. Has anyone heard of this and do I need to take aid gear?
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Jul 11, 2017 - 06:43am PT
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Just bring a sling to tie off the bushes on Bushy Ledge for an anchor.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Jul 11, 2017 - 09:49am PT
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Hey Clusty,
Here is some weirdness:
Dear John - the 5.8s on the left side of the steep face are kind of fun and good in the afternoon. The .11a Rehab is big fun.
On the prow of the Dear John, the very north end, is the slightly lower angle face that faces the highway. There are two routes there, 10a and 10c and both are pretty cool and are both long single pitches where you top out the buttress. Airtime and Airwaves? I remember the left one (10a?) being super super fun.
There are a couple seldom done things on Lower Buttress, For Real Crack is interesting and Wild Turkey is pretty damn cool though it is runout on easy ground. Crown Royal down there is a fun long pitch of 10c dike romping.
have fun!
EDIT: Oh, and do Vanishing Point. Take two #4s, and a second rope.
EDIT #2: West wall, a variation to hospital corner is cool too.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2017 - 06:34pm PT
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Wow, thanks y'all!!!! I'll report back!
PS- I hear there is a new Leap book coming out, is that true? It's supposed to rival Josh's North Lake book in quality.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jul 12, 2017 - 10:32pm PT
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You can pretty much see every rte from the campground why do you need a guidebook??
RIP Clanc)
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 12, 2017 - 10:51pm PT
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I'm going to be in the neighborhood the weekend of 8/26 and have been looking for some time for a place I might put up a route called 'Clueless Dickery' - somewhere obscure would be perfect...
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 12, 2017 - 10:55pm PT
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If you Surrealistic, try going way left around the top of the second pitch and climb the knobs out left of the regular route. On Knapsack, after the crux past the pitons, traverse right 20 feet and find a nice flake that leads to some easy but improbable face climbing to the top. On main wall, left of corrugation, there is a route called Haystack Senior. Kinda hard, but obscure. Beer Can Alley was once obscure but now well bolted and sporty long face climb. Do Blue Wind if you can muster it. It can be toproped off a gear anchor which lets you hit three awesome routes between Wild Turkey and Blue wind. Stay out of For real crack. Its a chossey offwidth leading to loose crap. Try Magnum force for something semi hard and noone climbs it. Harvey Wallbangers and Pips Pillar are nice moderates on the Hog. Also, there are variations to Corrugation that go for about half a pitch of scary 9R if you skip the traverse right past the crappy knifeblade. Do the actual first pitch of Travellers Butress. Noone climbs it. Good crack, takes some wide. Halfway up to blue wind try a highball V1 to the right of B.W. Called Idiosynchronicity. Traverse super lowball boulder the base of Dear John from far right around the corner to God of Thunder. Preparation H is a good alternate start to Haystack. Reccomended ropeless: Knapsack, Pop bottle, Wallbangers right.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jul 13, 2017 - 12:53am PT
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5 feet to the R of Surrealistic Pillar is a great line of dikes that for some reason has been overlooked. A perfect spot for Clueless Dickery.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Jul 13, 2017 - 08:56am PT
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Is that a joke? That has been climbed.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2017 - 01:11pm PT
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Heya,
So we did the groove, brother of John, craven image, bears reach, and knapsack. My friend had to get up to go to the airport at 3:30 so we decided to head back to the bay after topping out on hogsback.
I had three more formations on the tick list. I will definitely have to get up earlier but I might do a little recon on the other areas first. It was a great day up there just running around at all the formations!
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| Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic |
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