Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 22, 2017 - 08:04am PT
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There are some who may hold to the belief asking the Taco for beta is cheating the true spirit of Climbing.
But whatevs! The more I know...and all that Jazz.
Anywho, I looked at a topo, read the approach beta, and it didn't sound anything like what I remember from 30yrs back the one time I took a long walk to this awesome view.
Could I have gone up an non guidebook published approach to the best view of this particular area?
Cheers!
LS
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squishy
Mountain climber
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Jun 22, 2017 - 09:17am PT
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What do you need to know? I've done it a few times in recent years. You cross the outlet of the lake, skirt the north side of it heading to the obvious talus chute on the other side, on top of the chute take a tiny right and gain the ridge, you'll see your goal.
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2017 - 10:55am PT
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This makes sense, I guess my memory is off.
I remember ducking off through a slot/gap in a rock wall, walking along a cool creek, skirting a pond, and heading through a forest, to some exposed slabs til I got to the ridge. It didn't feel like the slabs were part of a talus chute...
And the published bit mentions something about a trail which I have no memory of?
Just checking to see if there are alternate adventuresome approach/descent options.
Thanks!
LS
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jun 22, 2017 - 11:22am PT
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the slab approach is off to the right just out of view of the picture.
I thought it was a bit easier to access like the pic shows esp. if the slabs are wet.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jun 22, 2017 - 12:06pm PT
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That photo nails it.
BAd
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Jun 22, 2017 - 12:50pm PT
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I took the slabs in the photo once as a descent and it sucked.
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squishy
Mountain climber
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Jun 22, 2017 - 01:25pm PT
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The slabs are off to the right more (behind and below the trees in the photo) and they start lower down, I often see water running down them and have no experience using them.
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adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
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Jun 22, 2017 - 04:03pm PT
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If you hike to the lake you messed up...I have hiked up there 30+ times and was shown the correct approach and decent from a seasoned local...follow the climbers trail below 90ft wall...do not cross the creek or you will waste a lot of time...follow carins and faint climbers path to the base of the slabs..cross a tiny creek, up the slabs to the ridge and follow
The ridge to the base...you could follow the picture but that will add a lot of time and a sketchy creek crossing...the route I described is the standard approach...the decent is different but super quick...follow slabs down from the buttress to the creek and cross a giant log...follow the trail down some gullies to the approach trail...then back past 90ft wall to the parking lot...
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Jun 22, 2017 - 04:56pm PT
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Adikted, what's the better adventure? a run up to Eagle Lake Buttress or a run up to Maggies Peaks? Thanks.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Jun 22, 2017 - 05:07pm PT
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I've done both and I kinda like going by the lake, especially on the way back so I can have a swim.
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2017 - 05:42pm PT
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Adikted, thanks a bunch
In all honesty, what you describe sounds more familiar than all the other stuff I've read, much appreciated for sharing!
Cheers
LS
ps - 'faint climbers trail' ?! Damn, I'm screwed... ;) .
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Jun 22, 2017 - 05:59pm PT
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Addicted is correct , but if you go via eagle lake... add a extra hour for the approach
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emunsing
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jun 22, 2017 - 09:57pm PT
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I've only gone via the lake, and it's smooth travel, straightforwards, has great views, and the option of swimming. Trailhead to buttress I've done it in 45 minutes (jogging the trail), and usually budget 1.5hrs with a group, so would have a hard time imagining Adikted'a route being an hour faster :)
The outlet of Eagle Lake is currently raging, though, so it might be wiser to take Adikted's route- a friend of mine was nearly swept downstream last weekend!
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adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
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Jun 23, 2017 - 10:08am PT
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To each their own...be careful crossing the creek...pretty nice up there right now...both adventures are different...take a pair of balls and a helmet for Maggie's :)
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Jun 23, 2017 - 10:51am PT
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emunsing
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Jun 24, 2017 - 07:32pm PT
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We were up at Eagle Lake Buttress today, and tried Adikted's beta on the way up, and the standard gully on the way down. High creek levels present challenges for both paths, and we also lost the faint climber's trail following Adikted's beta. There is a snowfield covering part of the standard talus gully; we negotiated this on climber's left but it was the crux of our day! Here's the Strava trace.
For me, the bottom line is that without a local guide to Adikted's beta, the standard route is just as fast... faster if you get lost trying to uncover the local's beta!
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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
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