Dirtbag: Fred Beckey

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Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
Sep 28, 2017 - 06:18pm PT
Adding to DMT's list:

1946 - Kates Needle (Coast Mountains, AK/BC) with Robert Craig and Clifford Schmidtke;

1949 - Michaels Sword (Coast Mountains, AK) with Harry King; Organ Pipes (Coast Mountains, AK) with Harry King; Antler Peak (Antler Peaks, Coast Mountains, AK) with Harry King; Couloir Peak (Spirit Peaks, Coast Mountains, AK) with Andrew Griscom; Emperor Peak (Spirit Peaks, Coast Mountains, AK) with Ralph Widrig; Flower Tower (Taku Range, Coast Mountains, AK) with Andrew Griscom;

1957 - Mount Barrille (Alaska Range, AK) with John Rupley;

1966 - South Summit of Mount Seattle (Saint Elias Mountains, AK) with R. Eric Bjornstad, Art Davidson, Jr., Don Liska, Herb Staley, and Jim Stuart;

1972 - The Tusk (Berners Peaks, Coast Mountains, AK) - with Dave Beckstead, John Rupley, and Ray Ketcham;

1976 - South Peak of Devils Paw (Coast Mountains, AK/BC) with Doug McCarty, Jack Tackle, and Craig Zaspel; Mount Emmerich (Takhinsha Mountains, Saint Elias Mountains, AK) with Jack Tackle and Craig Zaspel; Peak 5560 in the East Twin Glacier and Hades Highway drainages (Antler Peaks, Coast Mountains, AK) with Doug McCarty, Jack Tackle, and Craig Zaspel;

1977 - Mount Cheops (Mastadon Spires, Hidden Mountains, Alaska Range, AK) with R. Eric Bjornstad and Craig Martinson; Snow Bird Peak (Hidden Mountains, Alaska Range, AK) with R. Eric Bjornstad and Craig Martinson;

1979 - Mount Foresta (Saint Elias Mountains, AK) with Rick Nolting, John Rupley, and Craig Tillery;

1981 - Mount Titanic (Revelation Mountains, Alaska Range, AK) with Dan Hogan, Doug McCarty, and Craig Tillery;

1991 - North Spire (Barbarian Spires, Rampart Range, Alaska Range, AK) with Clay Wadman; and

1994 - Peak A-30 (Revelation Mountains, Alaska Range, AK) with James Funsten, Paul Gonzalez, and Scott Raynor; Cyane Peak (Revelation Mountains, Alaska Range, AK) with James Funsten, Paul Gonzalez, and Scott Raynor.

ec

climber
ca
Sep 30, 2017 - 03:56pm PT
I couldn’t see how Fred could keep track of all his notes...

He told me that the ‘Little Black Book’ was a myth tho. LoL

 ec
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Sep 30, 2017 - 07:59pm PT
Seems extremely likely Krakauer was approached -- but refused for some reason....one can only speculate....


I knew Jon when he was getting started as a writer and willing to spend some time with obscure climber-types. But over the years he has moved more mainstream, writing about people and events that appeal to a more general public. Pat Tilman's story, for example. However, I can't see any sort of general appeal, leading to a best seller, in Beckey's case.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 30, 2017 - 08:11pm PT
^^^^ Case study in OCD?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 3, 2017 - 10:57am PT
I saw Dirtbag on Sunday.

I thought it was a good portrait of Beckey.

I was surprised and pleased to see that the filmmakers tracked down Helmy. PNW climbers have wondered for years what happened to Helmy.
The rumour was that he was an underwear model in Europe.
In fact, the film said he was an opera singer.
He looked pretty buff in the film though. Maybe he did model underwear while or between opera singing gigs.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 3, 2017 - 12:59pm PT
OK, bonus coverage:

BITD (I know, that's redundant) The Fred went to the Fairweather Range
(obviously named by a realtor) with Dusan Jagersky, Wickwire, and
Greg Markov, IIRC. They got to their basecamp whereupon The Fred had a
meltdown over their objective. He decided to stay at basecamp and
pout while the others went climbing. They climbed up onto the spine
of this bitchin ridge and set up camp. In the morning Dusan was up
and out of the tent enjoying his brekky, and the view, when a major
earthquake hit. Dusan looked into the darkness of the tent at a pair
of very large eyeballs while their world wildly gyrated. Then they
watched as every face in the basin simultaneously avalanched. They
all assumed they'd seen the last of The Fred as the whole basin filled
up with powder clouds to a depth of several thousand feet. They
decided continuing was safer than descending so on they went without
seeing a trace of The Fred. Five days later they get back down and were
greeted with

"What the hell took you so long? I was bored to death here!"
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Oct 6, 2017 - 07:28pm PT
I'm curious, and I don't mean to be disrespectful of Fred - I last talked with him briefly over thirty years ago - but at his age does he have a companion who assists him? Is he still getting around on his own? Someone mentioned he uses a wheelchair.

I haven't seen the film.
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Oct 6, 2017 - 08:15pm PT
JGill,
Sent you a PM with some details. Beckey's a private guy when it comes to his personal life.
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Oct 6, 2017 - 08:39pm PT
Thanks kunlun
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Oct 6, 2017 - 08:50pm PT
Didn't get it Juan. ST has notoriously poor personal messaging service. Go to my website and at the bottom of the homepage is my e-mail address. Thanks.

http://www.johngill.net/
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Oct 6, 2017 - 09:12pm PT
jgill, Thanks. Sent u an email.
teejaybee

Trad climber
Australia
Oct 7, 2017 - 02:31am PT
I sure hope they release this on Vimeo On-Demand, I can't wait to see it
Roebucks

Trad climber
Portland OR
Oct 7, 2017 - 01:14pm PT
His biography should be released by the end of next year. The back has the whole list of his climbs, all of the climbs that could be documented anyway.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Oct 7, 2017 - 03:01pm PT
Whoa!! We get to learn what became of Helmy??!!!


Probably not mainstream audience material, but I think they are dummies for the most part. Or call them ignorami.

Sorry, ignoramuses.

And now I know that ignoramus was a verb, though not sure just how.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Oct 7, 2017 - 03:10pm PT
Reilly,

That sounds like the same year that Toby O'Brien, Henry Florschutz, Lincoln Stoller, and Peter Metcalf were on Fairweather. See American Alpine Journal 1974.
MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
Oct 7, 2017 - 04:22pm PT
Guilty


edit:

Though really I was trying to find the proper plural. My early climbing mentors referred to touri ignorami. It may not have been proper Latin, but do we have any Romans to correct us?
ec

climber
ca
Oct 11, 2017 - 01:28am PT
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 11, 2017 - 07:55am PT
EC, where is That? Anyone knows if it will be shown in Central Valley?
ec

climber
ca
Oct 11, 2017 - 08:58am PT
Vitaliy, that was in Larkspur last night. There’s one more screening there at another venue on Friday.

Century 3 Larkspur, Fri, Oct 13th

 ec
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 11, 2017 - 01:59pm PT
The first time I met Fred was at a lunch where I was seated with him, and translator Tony Sortelle, and Walter Bonatti at a small table on !2/6/84.

Unforgettable. (and was interesting to see how in awe of Walter he was).

We climbed together several times in the '90s.


The last time I saw him was in the apartment of David Koch beneath a painting worth more money than most of us have ever seen.
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