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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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May 30, 2017 - 11:53am PT
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Burly and beautiful. Nice send kids! Thanks for sharing Largo.
Scott
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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May 30, 2017 - 02:04pm PT
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You should have taken Cardwell on Henny's top 10 circuit when he came to Rubidoux.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 30, 2017 - 03:33pm PT
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It's too bad Royal Robbins is no longer around to comment on the "5.8" squeeze now rated "5.10".
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 30, 2017 - 03:51pm PT
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John... thanks for posting.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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May 30, 2017 - 04:01pm PT
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Last fall was Jon Cardwell's first trip to the Valley. Conrad Anker was trying to convince him to do Steck-Salathe as a rite of passage and I was telling him to stay away! Thankfully he set his sights on something worthwhile instead. Such a nice, unassuming guy. Thank heavens I didn't drop that boulder on him when we were trail building at the AF Canal Zone event this past September.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 30, 2017 - 04:22pm PT
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Buuuurrrrrrly!
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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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May 30, 2017 - 06:43pm PT
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Fantastic! Thanks for the post, John, and congratulations to Cardwell and DiGiulian!
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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May 30, 2017 - 08:50pm PT
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clearly only commercial climbing matters
In addition to the glossy photos can you share the Excel document with the Adidas budget for this "climbing project."
way to keep the spirit of Yosemite climbing alive...
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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May 30, 2017 - 09:03pm PT
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I am very happy that Adidas Outdoor sponsors so many of our friends. They are living the dream and accomplishing much.
I enthusiastically support them by purchasing Adidas shoes and clothing.
For years Americans were way behind on commercial sponsorship. With new generations of climbers we are growing up.
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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May 30, 2017 - 09:10pm PT
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teams of subies working to clean and equip a route so a pro can fly in and send...
climbing is so rad
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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May 30, 2017 - 09:28pm PT
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Nice . . all the way around, John.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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May 30, 2017 - 09:53pm PT
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Props to the climbers. That looks like a sick line.
Props to the dolls fleecing the corporations for their role, whether a it's slamming and jamming or documenting and spraying.
All the folks that financially support the commercialization of climbing.... Well... A sucker is born every minute I guess.
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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May 30, 2017 - 09:56pm PT
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Dang, hard core stuff. And great photos.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 30, 2017 - 10:13pm PT
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looks like the bottom part of the route is a free variation, as well as the part above the roof...
drawn from my imagery...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 30, 2017 - 10:18pm PT
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the first Adidas soccer shoes I bought were in the 10th grade (that would be around 1968 or so) from a German expat who ran his business out of his garage in SoCal (around Claremont).
That was the extent of the market at that time.
I don't have any problem with sponsorship, the climb still has to be climbed, and can be appreciated on its merits. Conrad Kain was sponsored when he climbed Bugaboo Spire, it was a bad ass climb for its time (and today too).
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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May 30, 2017 - 10:37pm PT
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Ed, I agree that sponsorship is great as it allows folks to dedicate themselves to climbing.
How do you feel about paying a work crew to clean, equip, and prep a route so the "pro" can fly in for the send?
That part feels significantly different to me on this one. In the past the paid folks were the artists capturing stills and videos, but this seems different...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 30, 2017 - 11:10pm PT
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the climbing I practice certainly doesn't depend on a crew to help make possible
but that being said, there have been "large collaboration" on other climbs, and the commercialization, in the sense that a sponsor is willing to pay to support that collaboration, doesn't seem to so out of the character of climbing.
in general, I haven't sought out any commercial gain from climbing, but I fully understand those who have the ability and capability to make a living off of climbing.
I'd like to see the FFA credited to all the climbers who participated.
but like a lot of climbers of my generation, I view commercialization in a negative light.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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May 31, 2017 - 02:26am PT
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EH wrote: "there have been "large collaboration" on other climbs, and the commercialization, in the sense that a sponsor is willing to pay to support that collaboration, doesn't seem to so out of the character of climbing."
for sure to the first phrase... as per the last phrase?
depends on what the "collaboration" is...
if the collaboration is, as ryankelly is claiming: that others, who remain unacknowledged, were paid to "clean, equip and prep" the route... then no, i for one, believe that that crosses a personal line so as to be "out of the character of climbing"... at least as i personally define it.
what's next? an unacknowledged professional masseuse jugging trailing lines to give the "pros" massages while they belay their partners? or maybe an unacknowledged third member of the team who is the designated belayer... a d.b. if you will...
don't worry, i have no delusions that any type of climbing has ever been anything but contrived and manufactured adventure to one degree or another.
and i also accept that no [single] one gets to define what the character of climbing is for any/every-body else.
but just as we are all free to climb as we see fit, we are all also free to comment on this endeavour that has given us so much, as we see fit.
and so, i will also say, as one voice, that if what ryankelly is saying is true, i find it disconcerting that a paid representative of a brand is posting what is an effective press release replete with internal product placements in both photo and word, regarding a "first free ascent", that was, without acknowledgment, cleaned, equipped and prepped for pay, prior to the pros sending.
don't get me wrong: i'm super pumped for digiulian and cardwell.
[relative to their skills,] i've sucked at climbing for long enough to know, that what they have done, regardless of the rest of the story, is no small feat.
still, assuming there is one, because climbing has given me so much, i am very interested in the complete story.
just as i would be interested in how many unacknowledged sherpa were involved in stocking the interim camps on a claimed fa on everest...
and so i do hope we get to find out the "rest of the story".
or if nothing else, find out that in this instance, ryankelly is full of shIt. [and given what i recall of his posting in the past, i'm guessing that is not the case...]
if we are going to publicize/consume "climbing" for personal and corporate gain, i believe we owe the legacy that is "climbing" at least a transparent telling of what the relevant nuts and bolts were...
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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May 31, 2017 - 05:38am PT
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Great climbing. Great climb. Sacherer lives.
As for collaboration, in about 1973, I started cleaning prospective routes that I though might be good free climbs (Crack-a-Go-Go was a good pick, but I didn't get the FFA). Bridwell took notice and gently suggested that I clean out one of his projects in exchange for credit on the first ascent.
Names in the guide book, brains in the gravel, as Phil Bircheff would say. I declined. I was offended.
However, had he offered cash, I probably would have accepted the gig, but declined the first ascent inclusion--keep your brains inside your skull.
I think it is great that climbers can get paid to work on climbing projects and get sponsored to climb.
And, seeing a way over the roof is as good as it gets.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The real McCoy from the inside of my van.
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May 31, 2017 - 06:10am PT
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As long as you remove your orange tape marking the approach all the way up there... but since this has been completed, we decided to clean up after you. <3
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