Should WEML exist?


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'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 5, 2017 - 06:52pm PT
So good ole Mikey aka Blueblocr did a wonderful run-out lead today of the first pitch....

....seemed kinda hard.

Turns out he led the first pitch of Martyr's Brigade which is 5.11!

Sheesh. Second Ascent. We laughed our asses off.

"Everything will seem easier now, Blue," we said.

Time for beers and char BQ in Camp 4. Life is good .... when yer alive.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Oct 5, 2017 - 07:08pm PT
As BLUEBLOCR said, there isn't a Harding route that isn't one of the best.

Good luck to you all !

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2017 - 09:08pm PT
Have fun, fellers...let us know how P1 climbs if you find it. : ) Go left early on P2; that bombay block above the belay is loose. Cheers...
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 6, 2017 - 12:26am PT

Royal and I just clipped them - never occurred to us that they may be questionable. After all, Warren placed them or maybe his accomplice, and they used them.

Boulder, CO
Oct 6, 2017 - 10:07am PT
maybe those rivets are the only thing holding it together? Be careful for what you wish for.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 18, 2017 - 08:48am PT
The team of PtPP, Blueblocr and Andre Kovacs have completed repairs of WOEML.

Top of P2, smashed bolts could not be removed. Crowbar will be required. We found other newer bolts perhaps fifteen feet higher, exactly 200' to ground.

P8 leftward rising traverse, four new 1/4" button head rivets replaced chopped ones and connect to Mescalito - PtPP.

P12 - just past Reticent Wall crossover, two rivets required to pass chopped section on leftward rising traverse just before 12 - BB.

Repairs were less onerous than feared, though the discomfort of drilling a rivet ladder could not be overstated!

Harding's original aluminum rivets are actually in excellent shape for the most part. 90% of them will accept a number two Donny rivet hanger, and only 10% require a number one hanger.

On a few of the anchors, we removed old quarter-inch bolts and replaced with new 3/8 in using the same holes.

We are left continually scratching our heads regarding Warren Harding's route choice. We don't understand why he didn't follow the natural line of Mescalito. Obviously he was heading for the upper dihedrals where we now are, and where New Dawn enters. But we still don't get why he went the way he did. Maybe he fancied himself a Comici and followed the path of the falling water droplet?

Anyway, if the route choice is not all that natural, the route is certainly worth climbing, for its historical value and also the really cool aluminum rivets. The rivets seemed spooky at first, but after a few Clips felt totally bomber.

Now if only the granite of El Capitan - which is constantly falling off everywhere -felt as bomber as Harding's ancient rivets! Ha!
Patrick Sawyer

Originally California now Ireland
Oct 18, 2017 - 10:15am PT
That gleam was nearly always there, btw.

I second that Kevin, Charlie always had that gleam. A bit wacky at times, but it was a pleasure to climb with him. RIP.

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2017 - 02:15pm PT
Thanks, Pete and Mike, for repairing the vandalized pitches and, essentially, resurrecting the route.
Dan McDevitt

Trad climber
Oct 18, 2017 - 02:38pm PT
U boys rock
The Glory roofs up high!!!
The Glory roofs up high!!!
Credit: Dan McDevitt
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