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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 24, 2006 - 03:50pm PT
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Riley: The guide you want is Selkirks North (Jones). Quite authoritative, and fairly current.
E-mail me for information about the Adamants, which are in the north Selkirks, about 150 km north of the Bugaboos, in the Purcells. I've been there three times.
The biggest rock in the area is toward the west side, off the Austerity Glacier. But there is good rock, ice and mixed climbing from Pioneer Peak right through to Austerity. The east side has lots to offer, and is accessible from the hut at Fairy Meadows. That hut is accessible on foot via the trail up Swan Creek. I've heard that the road leading to the trailhead is quite rough, and you have to snafflehound proof your vehicle. Also the trail is a bit rough and wet. But it's a reasonable day drive and hike from Golden to the hut, even with a week's supplies. It may be better to camp at a tarn about an hour above the hut - not so comfortable, but shorter approaches and descents, and no fees. You can always retreat to the hut in sustained poor weather.
The area is respectable wilderness, and IMHO motorized access isn't really in keeping with that. If you're going to the west side of the area (Austerity Glacier), it may make sense - it would take two days to hike there. Also there's a commercial lodge in the next range over, which offers possibilities.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Dec 25, 2006 - 11:12am PT
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Easy. The liquor store.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 25, 2006 - 12:00pm PT
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Yes Riley,
Turret is the lighter brown buttress in the Middle of the line up.
To its right is Adamant,
To the left is Austerity,
And at the left margin of the massif is Ironman, (immediately left of the photo splice).
Ironman is where the photo of the dingleberry in the cowboy hat was climbing...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 25, 2006 - 12:42pm PT
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I no longer have posession of the guide;
Please pardon the rough images.
Here is an old photo copy of the Adamant Group from the South:
And the heavily glaciated North Side:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 25, 2006 - 12:51pm PT
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And a view from the West,
From atop Remillard Peak,
Looking way out towards The Adamants on the Left,
And Mt Sir Sanford on the right:
That photo was taken from a position a bit to the West, or left of this map.
(From Remillard Peak)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 25, 2006 - 01:03pm PT
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Ironman is something like 16 pitches; pretty clean rock.
We bailed in the middle of one of the crux pitches, a straight in 5.9/10 hand and finger crack, due to weather.
Turret looks, from below, pretty darn big as crags go...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 25, 2006 - 03:05pm PT
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I think a high camp right on Austerity Glacier would be da bomb.
20 minute approaches...
Now, whut aboot the rest of the globe?
There's that big 'ole alpine rock in spain, "Bulnes" er sumthin'?
Anybody?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 27, 2006 - 05:52pm PT
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Nice Goin' Riley!
Hey, whutabout that big 'ole granite thing in Spain?
Shoot, I've wanted to do Lotus Flower Tower since I was a kid.
...I can't decide.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 28, 2006 - 01:25am PT
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this is a sad topic, but if...
you mean if I only had ONE more climbing trip...
I'd go up El Cap again and say goodbye to my close friend!
All those other big walls look amazing, and I'd be content with just visiting the base.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 28, 2006 - 01:54am PT
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I hiked around the Torres del Paine. Pretty sweet place, I have tons o respect for anyone who climbs in that wind.
Luckily One more trip is hypothetical...and so my short list is:
The Bugs
Cirque of the Towers, Wind Rivers
Ruth Gorge
Cirque de Unclimables, Lotus
Long list is:
Trango
Fitzroy
Baffin
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 28, 2006 - 02:02am PT
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I've climbed in the Bugs and would go back with anyone... even to do a 2k-foot offwidth (hey Jay!)... not to be missed... also in the Cirque of the Towers (got to crank out some photos) a couple of times, that is a good trip (done a couple of times)... but also go elsewhere in the Winds, you could climb into eternity there.
I love Canada... but haven't gotten everywhere I'd like there, or in the States for that matter, or Mexico... and there are big mountains everywhere I'd like to stand on top of. But then there are the beautiful places, familiar places, close to home which have yet to tire me out, more eternal beauty.
We only have "one trip" allotted to us (with all due respect, Werner), and we should try to make the most of it while we can, go for it!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 28, 2006 - 02:12am PT
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... but also go elsewhere in the Winds, you could climb into eternity there.
Ed, I've been up in the northern end a few times, climbed Ganite and Hellen. Allways wanted to do Fremont and that arete on Ellingwood.
you're right!
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Dec 28, 2006 - 11:05am PT
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if i could guarantee safe passage home, I'd say gates of the arctic...
"hypothetically"
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Dec 28, 2006 - 11:11am PT
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I think I'd like to spend about a month in the Wind River Range, just hanging out and doing one route after another.
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Dragon with Matches
climber
Bamboo Grove
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Dec 28, 2006 - 12:22pm PT
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I think the Spanish crag alluded to above is called Riglos.
Someone said "I've wanted to do Lotus Flower Tower since I was a kid." Word to that. I look forward to the day I deal with the approach, the mosquitoes, the weather, the long line; rack up at the base and start eating up that neverending splitter.
Hypothetical dream trips created by combining features of favorite crags:
1. Patagonia with the weather of the Sierras in September.
2. Chamonix with the solitude of the Winds, and the weather of the Sierras in September.
3. Supercrack Buttress superimposed onto Ton Sai Beach - swap the seeping pockets and corroded bolts for perfect splitters, keep the breasts and the vibe, maybe trade the monsoon for autumn desert weather, leave the access and parking issues in Utah.
4. The Sierras in September, with the weather of the Sierras in September.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 28, 2006 - 02:48pm PT
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I've always wanted to visit Madagascar, to climb big walls and to pluck chameleons from the tree branches.
Although to some Yosemite Valley is close to home, and to others [like me] it's a second home, if you are a climber but have yet to experience Yosemite, you really need to go! One of the most amazing places on the planet, and very much reachable even for those of us of modest means.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Dec 28, 2006 - 03:07pm PT
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Riley-
At this point, I'd like to do a trip with Charlie. Maybe start in the Winds and finish a beautiful 1,800 foot free climb he and I failed on twenty years ago. Then head to Alaska via the Rockies, snagging the "Missing Link" on Kitchener along the way. We'd arrive in Alaska in early May, to find the "Racing Stripe" in perfect nick on the east face of the Tooth. Then we'd head to China and warm up on a couple of 6,000 meter beauties before crossing over into Nepal and finishing up with the true West Face of Makalu.
Charlie is one of the few folks that such a journey would have been possible with.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Dec 31, 2006 - 11:57am PT
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I do have only one trip...the route is called "My Life."
It zigs, it zags, routefinding is sometimes...interesting. Some moves are balletic, others pure bumblie. Exposure, thin runouts, strenuous roof moves on manky Gunkslike pins and nothing else...Hans himself couldn't have spotted a better line...For me.
I have had enough problems with fantasy living to last the rest of my life. Nowdaze, I want to really be living and, for the most part, I am. I won't imagine an "only one trip" scenario because, to me, that is part of a subsistence mindset. I say - live in abundance!!! Instead of "only one," how about "one unending adventure, with tangential experiences all the way through?"
My one trip is the best trip I could ever imagine, and oftentimes it goes beyond my imaginations ability to conure. As they say - you just can't make this stuff up! Thank the universe I am not limited to only that which I can dream up.
Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! I'll see you all, on the road less traveled.....
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sun_q
Big Wall climber
NY
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Dec 31, 2006 - 04:47pm PT
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radical: You don't know what you know, or vice versa. Learning is discovering that which you already know (cf. Plato, Vedas, etc.) Dreams perhaps only a reminder of what you've forgotten. And 'cannot' is one word.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Dec 31, 2006 - 05:43pm PT
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Actually, "can not" and "cannot" are both acceptable in use.
As for being unable to dream that which we know not of....I disagree, and have more than a few instances of learning about new things in dream state. Weird, but true. But what I meant when I wrote the thing about the universe going beyond my dream ability was that by being open, opportunities that I wouldn't have considered on my own present themselves.
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