Discussion Topic |
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Mig
Trad climber
Coimbra, Portugal
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Dec 21, 2006 - 09:17am PT
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Ohhhh...men! That's a impossible choice...
Today I have a such dilemma like your's. For the last 15 year my dream will be climbing in Patagonia. During all this time was impossible to me make this trip.
But some days ago a friend invited me to go with him climbing in Trango area next summer. And...I'm working hard to go with him and not lost this opportunity. For me it's a life time chance.
Miguel
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Dec 21, 2006 - 11:01am PT
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I'd like to see Concordia.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 21, 2006 - 11:06am PT
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good luck Mig!
I used to seriously stress that I wouldn't get to all the places I'd like to go... but then I think about all the places I have gone, pretty amazing. Yes to all of radical's places... but also there are the Andes, and the mountain region arch above the South Asia plate collision, on and on...
...don't give up hope of going, ever, and be open to the opportunities. Sometimes just being there is good enough, even if you are a tourist, or better a treker, or even better doing an easy route.
"Loose your dreams and you will loose your mind"
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 21, 2006 - 11:27am PT
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Depends on where you haven't been yet.
I'd avoid freeze ass cold places and places where it rains for months
Peace
Karl
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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Dec 21, 2006 - 11:42am PT
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I would go back to Baffin in a heart beat.
Been up Asgard but having seen the acres of rock/ice/snow that are around that area this would be my first choice.
Then Antartica.
Then Patagonia.
Then...........
Everyone have a wonderful holiday and a very happy and peaceful New Year.
Climb safe.
H.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 21, 2006 - 11:44am PT
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All great choices, but I'd be inclined to check out that 2k' unclimbed OW in the Bugaboos.
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G_Gnome
Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
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Dec 21, 2006 - 11:47am PT
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For a place for grandeur, probably Patagonia.
For a place to actually climb and hang with friends, definitely Tuolumne Meadows - Heaven on Earth.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Dec 21, 2006 - 11:55am PT
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Definitely Torres del Paine. I have a huge 5' panaoramic shot framed in my living room that I salivate over regularly. I don't do big walls, but I'd love to go there. I'm with G_gnome on this too though, it's hard to beat Tuolumne Meadows for great climbing and scenery. It may get overlooked though because it's in our (my) backyard. I love that place.
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10b4me
Trad climber
California
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Dec 21, 2006 - 03:21pm PT
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many places, but the most realistic is something in Alaska, or Canada
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 21, 2006 - 03:38pm PT
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Mount Meru
Mount Meru or Mount Sumeru is a sacred mountain in Hindu mythology considered to be the center of the universe. It is believed to be the abode of Brahma and other deities of both religions.
The mountain is said to be 80,000 leagues (450,000 km) high and located in Jambudvipa, one of the continents on earth in Hindu mythology. Many Hindu temples, including Angkor Wat, the principal temple of Angkor in Cambodia, have been built as symbolic representations of the mountain.
The mountain is solid gold .........
source: wikipedia
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Dec 21, 2006 - 03:45pm PT
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OK, so assuming that if I had one trip AND unlimited skills and parters wht the same during the course of the trip I'd like to climb Book of Shadows, (VII 5.10+ A4 WI4) Nameless Tower, Pakistan.
And a special helicopter would pick us up from the top.
And it wouldn't be one of those special red helicopters with a basket hanging under it, either.
-Kate.
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Dec 21, 2006 - 03:49pm PT
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Right now...Cuba.
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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Dec 21, 2006 - 04:56pm PT
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......or Bhutan
H.
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G_Gnome
Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
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Dec 21, 2006 - 05:17pm PT
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Kate, I think you are breaking the rules by assuming you get granted unlimited skills as well, not to mention a heli rescue. So, given you real skills, where would you want to go?
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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
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Dec 21, 2006 - 05:35pm PT
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The remote places have there appeal,
but if there is only one trip in a lifetime,
It's the Ditch.
If I won the Powerball Lotto,
it'd be a chateau in Cham for me.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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Dec 21, 2006 - 05:44pm PT
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As much as I have wanted to travel the world and climb, there is so much beautiful, some say the best in the world, rock right here in my back yard; I really can't justify going anywhere else untill I have ticked off some of these gems.
A lifetimes worth of the best alpine climbing on the planet.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned it yet..............
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paganmonkeyboy
Trad climber
the blighted lands of hatu
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Dec 21, 2006 - 05:48pm PT
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baffin by sailboat and kite...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 21, 2006 - 05:56pm PT
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-with survival suit and whale detector!
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paganmonkeyboy
Trad climber
the blighted lands of hatu
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Dec 21, 2006 - 06:03pm PT
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indeed :-)
maybe a kayak or 2 and a couple dry suits - if its gonna be a dream trip...
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TradIsGood
Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Dec 21, 2006 - 10:28pm PT
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Starts at Cape Canaveral.
Still need to research, but some crag on the moon (interpreting world very loosely...)
Returns to Cape Canaveral after a few FAs and souvenir rocks.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Dec 21, 2006 - 11:21pm PT
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Chatsworth
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Dec 21, 2006 - 11:31pm PT
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I'd start at Mohave
And keep goin north staying as high as possible till I got to Vancover.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Dec 22, 2006 - 12:50am PT
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Joshua Tree, of course. Then, after getting in shape, I'd go for this one:
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Dec 22, 2006 - 01:29am PT
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OOOOHHH....AWWWWWW!!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 22, 2006 - 01:49pm PT
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yeah, what is that? John?
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Dec 22, 2006 - 02:05pm PT
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Yeah, Riley...Nameless Tower it is. Maybe kinda mortal-type's routes, if you're still a pretty tough mortal. Weather, altitude, and grade VII. High-end mortal. :)
When I first started learning to climb I went to Colo on a business trip and ended up at EMS where I bought my first biners They were having a slide show at the EMS, so I stayed.
It was a slideshow on a FA on Nameless Tower. Not sure if this was the route, though.
It was the first time I ever saw/heard of a bigwall or saw a portaledge and I was like, man, I am going to do that someday. When I went home I found an article in rock & ice or climbing at a friends place and there was Nameless Tower again.
So, in answer to G-gnomes question, which I've been thinking about all last night and today, I don't think there is any other place I'd want to go. So even if I just went to schelp around and look at stuff, that's where I'd go.
:) Fun dreamin' and hearing about other peoples dream trips. Post up, guys and gals!
-Kate.
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atchafalaya
Trad climber
California
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Dec 22, 2006 - 02:26pm PT
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In the early 1990s I was working an a fishing boat out of Petersburg Alaska. Petersburg is on an island in Southeast Alaska, and on a clear day, you can see across Howe sound, and into the British Columbia Coast Range.
The Coast Range holds countless incredible peaks, including the Devils Thumb, and Burkett Spire, as well as countless unclimbed summits, ridges and walls. After seeing those peaks, I vowed to someday return...
2004, after the dissappearance of some well known BC climbers, we loaded our gear onto a heli, and were dropped onto the glacier between Mount Burkett and the Thumb. If you ever read any of the stories about this region, conditions can be horrendous. The conditions were really bad on our trip, we did not summit, and never even saw the thumb, as it was always covered in clouds. Heres some pics...
If I only had one trip, I would go back...
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Dec 22, 2006 - 06:39pm PT
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View of K2 from top of Great Trango East Summit (second from the left):
(note the shadows of Nameless and Great Trango bottom right)
You don't get much of a view of K2 until you get up high, but you get the most spectacular view of Gasherbrum IV once you get on the Baltoro Glacier.
Back in 1992, porters were about $15 per day, three (long) days from Askole to the Trango and/or Dungee Glacier.
About the mystery wall: can't say. There's a contest for an A5 hammer going on over at the bigwalls.net forum if you can identify it!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 22, 2006 - 07:05pm PT
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Riley, yeah the howsers have always heald an interest for me and even more, now. I think helicopter might be needlessly extravagent, we drove a 'bago to the lodge in'92. But what do I know?
John the 4th, checked the beta (guesses) on your site and that looks increasing cool, but I might need to win the lottery/ransom Prana first. Nice
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Dec 22, 2006 - 07:23pm PT
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Went to the Howsers with Fred Beckey once (didn't make it up anything). We took a helicopter to Base Camp. It didn't seem too pricey at the time (split between three people).
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 22, 2006 - 07:45pm PT
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How much to have Fred carry everything? Not like I'd keep up with him anyway.
You guys are beginning to convince me.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 22, 2006 - 08:04pm PT
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To quote the 2003 Bugaboos guide (Atkinson & Piche): "Helicopter access inside the park is not allowed except under special permit from B.C. Parks."
There's a schematic map of the park at http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/bugaboo/bugaboo.pdf
Boulder Camp and the Conrad Kain hut are within the boundaries. Possibly Fred could get a permit to fly there, recognizing his legacy and/or advancing age. Not mortals.
I believe some of the west side of the Howsers (headwaters of East Creek) is now in the park, but am not sure how much. If so, it may limit fly-in opportunities there. But it's a very good place to visit, and gawk, and even climb, even if it involves a 30 kg load all the way from the road!
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10b4me
Trad climber
California
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Dec 22, 2006 - 08:15pm PT
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one thing I've always wanted to climb is Mt. Fairweather. the approach is long, and crappy, and the weather usually sucks, but suppoosed to be a good climb.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 22, 2006 - 08:31pm PT
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I'd go someplace where there are more virgin one to two-thousand foot red sandstone walls than I could climb in a lifetime.
Oh!
Wait a minute. I think I can see it out my window...
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atchafalaya
Trad climber
California
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Dec 22, 2006 - 09:13pm PT
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Riley, the spire is Burkett Needle, the peak to the right is Mt. Burkett. Theres routes on both...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 23, 2006 - 01:31am PT
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Riley,
Nice idea for a thread.
I've been fortunate enough to ride the CMH ships on a couple trips to the Adamants.
They service The Bugs too, and have on their new brochure an excellent shot of the Howsers; not sure which side, but I assume they have some access.
Hugh Burton, probably with Stevie Sutton, got a good look at that OW and used to opine, I think he really wanted it...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 23, 2006 - 01:46am PT
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...And to the original point: I think the high alpine rock will take care of itself nicely on this thread -so,
"The second question would take into account objective dangers, weather, flora, fauna, and culture"
I'll take a time trip to the Arapiles in the early 80's, when Carrigan, The Sheperd bro's and their sis Louise, and Mike Law were mixing Punk, Lycra, & 40's gangster attire with all kinds of audacious behavior, thrilling routes, and creative merriment.
I could bring back some snappy photos and post up!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 23, 2006 - 10:43am PT
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Here Riley,
You may have missed this "Scrambles" series of threads from last summer; some 6 consecutive threads with lots of pictures and about 100 posts per.
The first one has pretty good coverage of the Adamants, after starting out here in Colorado.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=196724&msg=204138#msg204138
Cheers,
Roy
2000' Buttresses of the Adamant Group:
Lateral Flow of the Austerity Glacier:
Mt Sir Sanford:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 23, 2006 - 12:37pm PT
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Nice time machine choice Riley; ratty punkers with ear rings & 'tudes up side down, down under
vs a few seasons on the hayride with Sacherer et al; whut was I thinkin!
Those Adamants towers at the top of the photo are pretty close to Yos granite:
...while there is some quartzy stuff in the vicinity:
and Sir Sanford is sandstone, with Glaciers a la mode.
We did not climb Sir Sanford, but Wayne, the guy just above, went back and romped it.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 24, 2006 - 12:55pm PT
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Some stuff was done in the "Chouinard" era and well recorded in Canadian journals; Topher Donahue did a new line a couple years ago on a fromation called Colossus.
The line I like, which has not seen too many ascents, is a very direct and continous 10+ crack system on Blackfriar, off the Austerity Glacier. Certainly there are new things to do.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 24, 2006 - 03:50pm PT
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Riley: The guide you want is Selkirks North (Jones). Quite authoritative, and fairly current.
E-mail me for information about the Adamants, which are in the north Selkirks, about 150 km north of the Bugaboos, in the Purcells. I've been there three times.
The biggest rock in the area is toward the west side, off the Austerity Glacier. But there is good rock, ice and mixed climbing from Pioneer Peak right through to Austerity. The east side has lots to offer, and is accessible from the hut at Fairy Meadows. That hut is accessible on foot via the trail up Swan Creek. I've heard that the road leading to the trailhead is quite rough, and you have to snafflehound proof your vehicle. Also the trail is a bit rough and wet. But it's a reasonable day drive and hike from Golden to the hut, even with a week's supplies. It may be better to camp at a tarn about an hour above the hut - not so comfortable, but shorter approaches and descents, and no fees. You can always retreat to the hut in sustained poor weather.
The area is respectable wilderness, and IMHO motorized access isn't really in keeping with that. If you're going to the west side of the area (Austerity Glacier), it may make sense - it would take two days to hike there. Also there's a commercial lodge in the next range over, which offers possibilities.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Dec 25, 2006 - 11:12am PT
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Easy. The liquor store.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 25, 2006 - 12:00pm PT
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Yes Riley,
Turret is the lighter brown buttress in the Middle of the line up.
To its right is Adamant,
To the left is Austerity,
And at the left margin of the massif is Ironman, (immediately left of the photo splice).
Ironman is where the photo of the dingleberry in the cowboy hat was climbing...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 25, 2006 - 12:42pm PT
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I no longer have posession of the guide;
Please pardon the rough images.
Here is an old photo copy of the Adamant Group from the South:
And the heavily glaciated North Side:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 25, 2006 - 12:51pm PT
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And a view from the West,
From atop Remillard Peak,
Looking way out towards The Adamants on the Left,
And Mt Sir Sanford on the right:
That photo was taken from a position a bit to the West, or left of this map.
(From Remillard Peak)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 25, 2006 - 01:03pm PT
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Ironman is something like 16 pitches; pretty clean rock.
We bailed in the middle of one of the crux pitches, a straight in 5.9/10 hand and finger crack, due to weather.
Turret looks, from below, pretty darn big as crags go...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 25, 2006 - 03:05pm PT
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I think a high camp right on Austerity Glacier would be da bomb.
20 minute approaches...
Now, whut aboot the rest of the globe?
There's that big 'ole alpine rock in spain, "Bulnes" er sumthin'?
Anybody?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 27, 2006 - 05:52pm PT
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Nice Goin' Riley!
Hey, whutabout that big 'ole granite thing in Spain?
Shoot, I've wanted to do Lotus Flower Tower since I was a kid.
...I can't decide.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 28, 2006 - 01:25am PT
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this is a sad topic, but if...
you mean if I only had ONE more climbing trip...
I'd go up El Cap again and say goodbye to my close friend!
All those other big walls look amazing, and I'd be content with just visiting the base.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 28, 2006 - 01:54am PT
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I hiked around the Torres del Paine. Pretty sweet place, I have tons o respect for anyone who climbs in that wind.
Luckily One more trip is hypothetical...and so my short list is:
The Bugs
Cirque of the Towers, Wind Rivers
Ruth Gorge
Cirque de Unclimables, Lotus
Long list is:
Trango
Fitzroy
Baffin
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 28, 2006 - 02:02am PT
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I've climbed in the Bugs and would go back with anyone... even to do a 2k-foot offwidth (hey Jay!)... not to be missed... also in the Cirque of the Towers (got to crank out some photos) a couple of times, that is a good trip (done a couple of times)... but also go elsewhere in the Winds, you could climb into eternity there.
I love Canada... but haven't gotten everywhere I'd like there, or in the States for that matter, or Mexico... and there are big mountains everywhere I'd like to stand on top of. But then there are the beautiful places, familiar places, close to home which have yet to tire me out, more eternal beauty.
We only have "one trip" allotted to us (with all due respect, Werner), and we should try to make the most of it while we can, go for it!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 28, 2006 - 02:12am PT
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... but also go elsewhere in the Winds, you could climb into eternity there.
Ed, I've been up in the northern end a few times, climbed Ganite and Hellen. Allways wanted to do Fremont and that arete on Ellingwood.
you're right!
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Dec 28, 2006 - 11:05am PT
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if i could guarantee safe passage home, I'd say gates of the arctic...
"hypothetically"
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Dec 28, 2006 - 11:11am PT
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I think I'd like to spend about a month in the Wind River Range, just hanging out and doing one route after another.
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Dragon with Matches
climber
Bamboo Grove
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Dec 28, 2006 - 12:22pm PT
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I think the Spanish crag alluded to above is called Riglos.
Someone said "I've wanted to do Lotus Flower Tower since I was a kid." Word to that. I look forward to the day I deal with the approach, the mosquitoes, the weather, the long line; rack up at the base and start eating up that neverending splitter.
Hypothetical dream trips created by combining features of favorite crags:
1. Patagonia with the weather of the Sierras in September.
2. Chamonix with the solitude of the Winds, and the weather of the Sierras in September.
3. Supercrack Buttress superimposed onto Ton Sai Beach - swap the seeping pockets and corroded bolts for perfect splitters, keep the breasts and the vibe, maybe trade the monsoon for autumn desert weather, leave the access and parking issues in Utah.
4. The Sierras in September, with the weather of the Sierras in September.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 28, 2006 - 02:48pm PT
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I've always wanted to visit Madagascar, to climb big walls and to pluck chameleons from the tree branches.
Although to some Yosemite Valley is close to home, and to others [like me] it's a second home, if you are a climber but have yet to experience Yosemite, you really need to go! One of the most amazing places on the planet, and very much reachable even for those of us of modest means.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Dec 28, 2006 - 03:07pm PT
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Riley-
At this point, I'd like to do a trip with Charlie. Maybe start in the Winds and finish a beautiful 1,800 foot free climb he and I failed on twenty years ago. Then head to Alaska via the Rockies, snagging the "Missing Link" on Kitchener along the way. We'd arrive in Alaska in early May, to find the "Racing Stripe" in perfect nick on the east face of the Tooth. Then we'd head to China and warm up on a couple of 6,000 meter beauties before crossing over into Nepal and finishing up with the true West Face of Makalu.
Charlie is one of the few folks that such a journey would have been possible with.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Dec 31, 2006 - 11:57am PT
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I do have only one trip...the route is called "My Life."
It zigs, it zags, routefinding is sometimes...interesting. Some moves are balletic, others pure bumblie. Exposure, thin runouts, strenuous roof moves on manky Gunkslike pins and nothing else...Hans himself couldn't have spotted a better line...For me.
I have had enough problems with fantasy living to last the rest of my life. Nowdaze, I want to really be living and, for the most part, I am. I won't imagine an "only one trip" scenario because, to me, that is part of a subsistence mindset. I say - live in abundance!!! Instead of "only one," how about "one unending adventure, with tangential experiences all the way through?"
My one trip is the best trip I could ever imagine, and oftentimes it goes beyond my imaginations ability to conure. As they say - you just can't make this stuff up! Thank the universe I am not limited to only that which I can dream up.
Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! I'll see you all, on the road less traveled.....
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sun_q
Big Wall climber
NY
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Dec 31, 2006 - 04:47pm PT
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radical: You don't know what you know, or vice versa. Learning is discovering that which you already know (cf. Plato, Vedas, etc.) Dreams perhaps only a reminder of what you've forgotten. And 'cannot' is one word.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Dec 31, 2006 - 05:43pm PT
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Actually, "can not" and "cannot" are both acceptable in use.
As for being unable to dream that which we know not of....I disagree, and have more than a few instances of learning about new things in dream state. Weird, but true. But what I meant when I wrote the thing about the universe going beyond my dream ability was that by being open, opportunities that I wouldn't have considered on my own present themselves.
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sun_q
Big Wall climber
NY
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Fair's fair so I consulted three dictionaries and two books on english usage: 'cannot' is the grammatically correct. However, 'can not' is acceptable when one wishes to stress 'not' (e.g. 'I can not deal with people who mention climbing and bungee jumping in the same sentence').
Why do I know this grammatical nonsense? My climbing partner's an English Ph.D. student, and 14 hours at a hanging belay, two days up a wall, 10 deg Farenheit without the wind, gives me plenty extra time to think once I'm done crying into the haul bags. (Please do excuse if 'cannot' came off a bit snotty, but then again my ex and I have found common ground arguing over 'email' vs. 'e-mail')
And for dreaming & knowing: I once knew everything, and there was no difference between me, my neighbour, or the guy on the street I too often ignore so I can get my double cappucino. I knew the man who built my table and knit my socks. An echo was both a reverberation of sound waves and the Greek nymph cursed by Zeus' wife for eternity only to answer the call of whoever shouted into the abyss.
But now this is become a confession of sorts.
Never mind, as the late great H.S.T. would say: "Buy the ticket, take the ride."
The point: Climbing, this huge expanse of infinite mountain, reminds me that I know nothing. Some negligable space in an infinite expanse, a grace. Only me and partner, some toys, and every bit of everything we've learned to get us to the top. I never could have 'dreamt' that I would find such a thing as climbing, but it is climbing that reminds me that it is the Dream to be followed if I'm ever to learn anything at all. I have to forget this 'grown-up' nonsense, artificial import attached to ideas and symbols that don't even exist.
Where was I? Yes, one trip...can anyone forward beta of any sort of the granite monoliths in the artic? Or is it the antartic?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Jarhead City, CA
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A free or almost free route on the south or east faces Trango Tower (aka Nameless), like the Slovenian Route, Cowboy Direct, or Eternal Flame....assuming I could lead hard .12 cracks...which I cannot....but while we're dreaming, might as well go big.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Elcap- the Slovenian Route is totally reasonable - about like two-times Astroman, with the addition of a couple of 11+/12- pitches. It's an all-time classic that's accessable to most motivated climbers today. You should just go do it! The other routes you mention are probably much harder.
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atchafalaya
Trad climber
California
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shot tower in the arrigetch?
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