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Messages 21 - 40 of total 64 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Dec 21, 2006 - 11:21pm PT
Chatsworth
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Dec 21, 2006 - 11:31pm PT
I'd start at Mohave






And keep goin north staying as high as possible till I got to Vancover.
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Dec 22, 2006 - 12:50am PT
Joshua Tree, of course. Then, after getting in shape, I'd go for this one:

[Click to View Linked Image]
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Dec 22, 2006 - 01:29am PT
OOOOHHH....AWWWWWW!!!!
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Dec 22, 2006 - 01:49pm PT
yeah, what is that? John?
Holdplease2

Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
Dec 22, 2006 - 02:05pm PT
Yeah, Riley...Nameless Tower it is. Maybe kinda mortal-type's routes, if you're still a pretty tough mortal. Weather, altitude, and grade VII. High-end mortal. :)

When I first started learning to climb I went to Colo on a business trip and ended up at EMS where I bought my first biners They were having a slide show at the EMS, so I stayed.

It was a slideshow on a FA on Nameless Tower. Not sure if this was the route, though.

It was the first time I ever saw/heard of a bigwall or saw a portaledge and I was like, man, I am going to do that someday. When I went home I found an article in rock & ice or climbing at a friends place and there was Nameless Tower again.

So, in answer to G-gnomes question, which I've been thinking about all last night and today, I don't think there is any other place I'd want to go. So even if I just went to schelp around and look at stuff, that's where I'd go.

:) Fun dreamin' and hearing about other peoples dream trips. Post up, guys and gals!

-Kate.
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Dec 22, 2006 - 02:26pm PT
In the early 1990s I was working an a fishing boat out of Petersburg Alaska. Petersburg is on an island in Southeast Alaska, and on a clear day, you can see across Howe sound, and into the British Columbia Coast Range.

The Coast Range holds countless incredible peaks, including the Devils Thumb, and Burkett Spire, as well as countless unclimbed summits, ridges and walls. After seeing those peaks, I vowed to someday return...

2004, after the dissappearance of some well known BC climbers, we loaded our gear onto a heli, and were dropped onto the glacier between Mount Burkett and the Thumb. If you ever read any of the stories about this region, conditions can be horrendous. The conditions were really bad on our trip, we did not summit, and never even saw the thumb, as it was always covered in clouds. Heres some pics...


[Click to View Linked Image]
[Click to View Linked Image]
[Click to View Linked Image]

If I only had one trip, I would go back...
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Dec 22, 2006 - 06:39pm PT
View of K2 from top of Great Trango East Summit (second from the left):
[Click to View Linked Image]
(note the shadows of Nameless and Great Trango bottom right)

You don't get much of a view of K2 until you get up high, but you get the most spectacular view of Gasherbrum IV once you get on the Baltoro Glacier.

Back in 1992, porters were about $15 per day, three (long) days from Askole to the Trango and/or Dungee Glacier.

About the mystery wall: can't say. There's a contest for an A5 hammer going on over at the bigwalls.net forum if you can identify it!
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Dec 22, 2006 - 07:05pm PT
Riley, yeah the howsers have always heald an interest for me and even more, now. I think helicopter might be needlessly extravagent, we drove a 'bago to the lodge in'92. But what do I know?

John the 4th, checked the beta (guesses) on your site and that looks increasing cool, but I might need to win the lottery/ransom Prana first. Nice
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Dec 22, 2006 - 07:23pm PT
Went to the Howsers with Fred Beckey once (didn't make it up anything). We took a helicopter to Base Camp. It didn't seem too pricey at the time (split between three people).
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Dec 22, 2006 - 07:45pm PT
How much to have Fred carry everything? Not like I'd keep up with him anyway.


You guys are beginning to convince me.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 22, 2006 - 08:04pm PT
To quote the 2003 Bugaboos guide (Atkinson & Piche): "Helicopter access inside the park is not allowed except under special permit from B.C. Parks."

There's a schematic map of the park at http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/bugaboo/bugaboo.pdf

Boulder Camp and the Conrad Kain hut are within the boundaries. Possibly Fred could get a permit to fly there, recognizing his legacy and/or advancing age. Not mortals.

I believe some of the west side of the Howsers (headwaters of East Creek) is now in the park, but am not sure how much. If so, it may limit fly-in opportunities there. But it's a very good place to visit, and gawk, and even climb, even if it involves a 30 kg load all the way from the road!
10b4me

Trad climber
California
Dec 22, 2006 - 08:15pm PT
one thing I've always wanted to climb is Mt. Fairweather. the approach is long, and crappy, and the weather usually sucks, but suppoosed to be a good climb.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Dec 22, 2006 - 08:31pm PT
I'd go someplace where there are more virgin one to two-thousand foot red sandstone walls than I could climb in a lifetime.





Oh!
Wait a minute. I think I can see it out my window...
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Dec 22, 2006 - 09:13pm PT
Riley, the spire is Burkett Needle, the peak to the right is Mt. Burkett. Theres routes on both...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 23, 2006 - 01:31am PT
Riley,
Nice idea for a thread.

I've been fortunate enough to ride the CMH ships on a couple trips to the Adamants.

They service The Bugs too, and have on their new brochure an excellent shot of the Howsers; not sure which side, but I assume they have some access.

Hugh Burton, probably with Stevie Sutton, got a good look at that OW and used to opine, I think he really wanted it...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 23, 2006 - 01:46am PT
...And to the original point: I think the high alpine rock will take care of itself nicely on this thread -so,

"The second question would take into account objective dangers, weather, flora, fauna, and culture"

I'll take a time trip to the Arapiles in the early 80's, when Carrigan, The Sheperd bro's and their sis Louise, and Mike Law were mixing Punk, Lycra, & 40's gangster attire with all kinds of audacious behavior, thrilling routes, and creative merriment.

I could bring back some snappy photos and post up!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 23, 2006 - 10:43am PT
Here Riley,
You may have missed this "Scrambles" series of threads from last summer; some 6 consecutive threads with lots of pictures and about 100 posts per.

The first one has pretty good coverage of the Adamants, after starting out here in Colorado.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=196724&msg=204138#msg204138

Cheers,
Roy

2000' Buttresses of the Adamant Group:
[Click to View Linked Image]

Lateral Flow of the Austerity Glacier:
[Click to View Linked Image]

Mt Sir Sanford:
[Click to View Linked Image]

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 23, 2006 - 12:37pm PT
Nice time machine choice Riley; ratty punkers with ear rings & 'tudes up side down, down under
vs a few seasons on the hayride with Sacherer et al; whut was I thinkin!

Those Adamants towers at the top of the photo are pretty close to Yos granite:
[Click to View Linked Image]

...while there is some quartzy stuff in the vicinity:
[Click to View Linked Image]

and Sir Sanford is sandstone, with Glaciers a la mode.
We did not climb Sir Sanford, but Wayne, the guy just above, went back and romped it.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 24, 2006 - 12:55pm PT
Some stuff was done in the "Chouinard" era and well recorded in Canadian journals; Topher Donahue did a new line a couple years ago on a fromation called Colossus.

The line I like, which has not seen too many ascents, is a very direct and continous 10+ crack system on Blackfriar, off the Austerity Glacier. Certainly there are new things to do.
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