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statjuan
climber
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Thanks for the update. Glad everyone seems more or less ok. Amazing. We were the party ahead of them on Constellation. I was just racking up when they got to the base. At the top of the 3rd pitch, I was a little confused on where to go, and ended up going straight up some blocky terrain and belaying on a large block with a tree that had a bunch of tat and 2 rap rings on it. I backed this up with a couple of cams in the crack in the back of the block. Looking at the guide book this morning, it seemed like I might have been right of the proper belay. We ended up traversing over to the Long Climb and finishing there, meeting Ryan a few minutes before the accident.
Maybe I was at a different belay, otherwise incredibly lucky it didn't cut when I was on it, as their party would have been in the line of rockfall.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Glad to hear that no one died up there this time. Some rumors were going around...
This business of following other parties up this area of the rock, even if the other party in on an adjacent route, is not smart. Be the first one's there or do something else.
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ryan_monroe
Sport climber
Pasadena
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Oh! You were the guys that I asked if I could pass to the right! I ended up not doing that because of rope drag issues (and later, solo'ing a section right beneath you to retrieve some gear before fixing the line for the rescue)
I hope the rest of your climb was good! Juan and melissa, right? Can't remember :-)
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statjuan
climber
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That was us. Yeah, that pitch is super short but for a reason, as it's far from a straight line. Thanks for assisting in the rescue. I had already topped out when it happened and didn't hear anything that seemed like I could assist with, but was worried there was. Had a good look at the base as it happened and was relieved to not be able to see anyone down there. Heard from a friend in the parking lot that a couple of people were at the base (probably further down) who just turned and ran and ended up being ok.
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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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So glad it didn't end worse and best wishes to those involved. To echo what others have said - bad idea to climb under anyone in that area of tahquitz, I simply refuse to do it.
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Esparza
Trad climber
Westminster, CA
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Took this around 2:15pm after returning from Angels Fright. The climbers observed on whodunit.... Don't see anyone on the lower pitches of Consolation.... Epic and glad everyone is alive and mostly well... gulp.
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ryan_monroe
Sport climber
Pasadena
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Re: Juan - glad to hear that you guys are good and nobody else was hurt. Good thing those people weren't on route yet!!! You two climb at stronghold right? See you there :-)
Got word from the injured climber:
Fractured shoulder
Five broken ribs
Pierced lung
Going into reconstructive surgery for the shoulder tomorrow.
But he's in one piece
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statjuan
climber
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And of course the route we were on was Consolation, not 5.12 slab. I had done it a few years back but traversed onto Whodunit to top out. I was thus too stubborn to consult the guide book (which would have alerted me to the correct name of the route) and figured I'd be able to read the route for the direct finish. This unwillingness to look at the topo seemingly lead me to the wrong ledge, and quite possibly saved lives. Next time I get a hard time for not being willing to ask directions, I can cite this.
Thanks for keeping us all updated about the climbers condition. Speedy recovery!
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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I've been spending some time up there in the back country recently- after the rain, snows, ice and run-off this winter, there's quite a bit of loose stuff everywhere.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Might be a good idea to let that North Face chill for a while, especially from White Maiden to the North Buttress. Spring rockfall is really dangerous, I saw a giant block (4'x4'x6') wiggle loose from an off route climber near white maiden while I was on Super Pooper with Ryan from town and have seen countless small incidents / seen / heard of rockfall, from two friends from Nomad on Edgehogs in 2009 to a handful of well documented fatalities on Sahara terror... too many come to mind.
I probably won't end up staying away, Long Climb and Whodunnit are just too good and if I can get someone to lead the odd pitches would be great to get back on edgehogs on the easier leads... might just go sport climbing though, too.
Hoping for a fast recovery for the injured climber and that they are able to get the support medically and financially to allow that to happen.
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ryan_monroe
Sport climber
Pasadena
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This business of following other parties up this area of the rock, even if the other party in on an adjacent route, is not smart. Be the first one's there or do something else.
I'd consider myself pretty competent, but I didn't know that the NEB was especially dangerous for climbers below. Perhaps we should make sure this is prominent on the MP and ST descriptions for the NEB? I don't frequent supertopo so it might already be there....
By the way, sorry for us being late to the party on posting this! We were pretty beat last night and pretty much passed out when we got home (or at least I did)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, all...
prayers for the injured climber...
so very glad it was not worse... oh my...
thanks for sharing, and for updates...
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Ouch. Sounds like some really painful injuries, but I'm so glad he gets to live! Best of luck with the shoulder especially.
BAd
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Got word from the injured climber:
Fractured shoulder
Five broken ribs
Pierced lung
Going into reconstructive surgery for the shoulder tomorrow.
But he's in one piece
Thanks for the update and I hope for the injured climber's full recovery.
It is the mountains, and each spring tends to bring a load of new objective hazards to look out for. Years like this year especially and situational awareness is critical. Maybe it's just the geologist in me, but the weathering process stops for no one. It's part of the adventure, like it or not. Kind of ups the ante when climbing in the NW Recess.
Good job helping with the rescue up there! Brings home the importance of staying up on those techniques along with first aid.
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Murf
climber
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Good thoughts going out to the injured climber, here's to a full recovery.
For those on scene, what do you consider the 3rd pitch?
As I recall, the sloping ledge shared with the second pitch of Long/Wong would be the 3rd guidebook pitch. I do believe that many make that belay in 2 pitches.
After that belay, you do the crux "double cracks" and the typical finishes is to either cross to Whodunit, or you move left to join Long/Wong. The territory between Consolation and Whodunit is a bowling alley, and it wouldn't surprise me that was where the rockfall occurred.
Anything more precise on location of the rockfall?
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csjamieson
Trad climber
CA
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I think you're right, murf. It may be the fourth guide book pitch. It's about 20 feet further up the immediate dihedral, past where the picture ends, where the rock fall occurred. (taken with permission of the injured party)
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csjamieson
Trad climber
CA
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This is a better perspective of where the rock fall occurred from my vantage near whodunit.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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...but I didn't know that the NEB was especially dangerous for climbers below. ...Perhaps we should make sure this is prominent on the MP and ST descriptions for the NEB? I don't frequent supertopo so it might already be there....
For this warning I'd focus on the NW Recess; everything from Long Climb over to Sahara Terror. The scarred up trees under that section of the rock tell the story.
But then again I was hanging out with some friends over by Sh#t For Brains one day. The furthest thing from our minds was rockfall. A beautiful young newly-wed couple was climbing Fingertrip. Hubby was belaying at the top of P2, his wife had just started climbing the pitch. Right then an air conditioner sized block cut loose from the rubble strewn ledges at the top of Jensen's Jaunt. It hit the rock just above the husband, and split in two. One half missed him climber's right by a foot or two. The other half missed him climber's left and shattered on the ledge his wife stood on moments before. They bailed and joined us at the base. Husband in tears, wife unnaturally giddy. Another party on El Camino Real got sprayed with debris and bailed as well.
My wife refuses to go back to Tahquitz to this day after she saw that display of granitic malfeasance.
I was surprised how large a span of the rock was impacted by this rock fall.
There weren't climbers on the ledge where the rock came from, but it was one of the first hot days of the season.
Heads up out there folks. Despite its proximity to an urban center, Tahquitz is in many respects an alpine style crag. Bring your route finding skills, situational awareness, and a sixth sense for danger.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Tahquitz ranks up there with some of the classic choss heaps of the Cascades and Rockies.
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ambyrlnn
Sport climber
San Diego
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Unfortunately, there were two people right at the base when the rocks came flying down...my boyfriend and I had finished Long Climb earlier in the day and were back at the base retrieving our stashed gear before we hiked down. We got our stuff and had just started walking across the base towards the trail. The rest is kind of fuzzy...I thought I heard someone yell 'Rock!" and then suddenly my boyfriend screamed at me to RUN. By random chance, he happened to be watching the climber when he fell, so he immediately knew the severity of what was about to hit us in a few seconds. As I turned to run I glanced up for a split second and saw a lot of movement coming down the face right above us. Within seconds debris started whizzing past me. I dove between two smaller rocks and covered my head. My boyfriend made it behind a large boulder. I could hear the bigger rocks smashing around us. Within a few seconds it stopped. Dust was everywhere. My boyfriend ran up to ask if everyone was ok. We ended up with cuts and bruises but no major injuries. It was an extremely scary and unreal experience. I'm beyond thankful that everyone made it out semi-ok.
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