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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 30, 2017 - 06:32pm PT
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So what was with the big rockfall at the NEB Tahquitz today? Cause? I hope everyone was OK!
We saw it come down from Suicide Rock and it looked big...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 30, 2017 - 06:37pm PT
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Feels like with all the extra water this year we have not seen the last of the big rock falls.
Hope all are ok.
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Jaime425
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Apr 30, 2017 - 08:07pm PT
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Heard and saw the rock fall as well....lots of helicopter action and heard some ambulances as well. We are still waiting to hear anything.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 30, 2017 - 08:17pm PT
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North East buttress? Along the North gully, or over towards El Whampo? And here I was worried about the Northwest recess.
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statjuan
climber
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Apr 30, 2017 - 08:19pm PT
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Happened below us, either Long Climb or Constellation.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2017 - 08:41pm PT
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Clarifying with my partners who were at different vantage points, we think it fell more like in the NW Recess.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 30, 2017 - 09:25pm PT
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Whodunit is a pretty obvious reference line if that helps any. Either way, thanks for the clarification you guys. Hope everyone in the vicinity came away in one piece.
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statjuan
climber
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Apr 30, 2017 - 09:37pm PT
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There were a lot of people still on the sloping ledge above pitch 2 of Constellation/Long Climb over an hour after. Emergency service people in the parking lot said they were re-rigging the helicopter to try to do a hoist. The parties on whodunit all seemed fine.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Apr 30, 2017 - 10:10pm PT
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While there are a lot of great easy climbs over there, I have a rule that I don't climb to the left of Whodunnit and recommend the same to my friends. When people ask why, I say, "I choose life." Rockfall is way to dangerous over there.
Josh
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 30, 2017 - 11:26pm PT
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Yikes. Scrambled around some random sh!t on the north buttress on saturday. Hope everyone made it out OK.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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My rule is never climb at Tahquitz until June. Hope everyone is OK.
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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Scary stuff.
That is my favorite area to climb at on Tahquitz.
Bump for some more information...
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Esparza
Trad climber
Westminster, CA
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What times was this at? My buddy and I got down to the parking lot around 3pm and did not notice any sort of Search and Rescue action. It was a gorgeous day (a tad bit breezy) to be up there.
Mike
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statjuan
climber
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My guess would be around 3:30 or 4.
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Jonerzz
Mountain climber
Apple Valley, CA
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I was there yesterday climbing. Our friend was next to the belayer of the injured climber when it happened and rapped down with him after his partner was airlifted out. She says he was trying to build an anchor at pitch 3 of Consolation when the rock he was feeling around broke off. Car-sized. They think he broke his collar bone and has a concussion (as of yesterday). There were 4 parties on that section of the wall. Two parties on Whodunnit finished the climb after the fall, while our friend and her partner rapped down with the belayer of the injured climber.
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csjamieson
Trad climber
CA
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I was on whodunit immediately adjacent to the rock fall incident. A climber was searching around at the top of the third pitch of consolation for anchor placements when a golf cart/ mini cooper sized block gave way. The climber and a dozen or so rocks of various size fell. No parties were climbing below on consolation; they surely would have been wiped off the face due to the sheer size of rock fall. A party below us on whodunit at the first belay was spared by maybe 15 feet. I witnessed the fallen climber tumbling down amongst the rocks and caught by his last piece of pro that was about 15 feet below him (~40 foot fall). He hang limp, spinning in free space, and unconscious for a minute or so. His belayer was able to lower the climber about 10 feet back to the second belay anchor ledge where he was secured. Injuries seemed to be concussion, facial bruising/ lacerations, and broken collar bone, upon initial assessment.
Another party above on the long climb fixed their line and rapped down to assist. Due to potential head/ neck trauma, it was advised not to attempt the double rope raps needed to get to ground with the injured climber and so they waited for rescue. After a few hours and a few helicopter passes later, a hoist was performed to extract the climber.
Anyone heading up consolation in the near future be aware that the stability of the rock in that area is unknown and the route may have been somewhat altered.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Best wishes to the injured climber. Glad to hear that no one was very seriously injured (or worse), particularly given the size of the block. Props to the party who assisted.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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TFPU
So glad the belayer wasn't hit🙏
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ryan_monroe
Sport climber
Pasadena
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I was on The Long Climb, at the top of pitch 3 or so when the rockfall happened. I fixed my line and went down to assist. The guy seemed in decent condition when they performed the hoist.
A harsh wakeup call to practice those rescue techniques and make sure you have all relevant rescue gear!
I second everything that csjamieson said, especially regarding loose rocks on all climbs between The Long Climb and Whodunit.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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On a nice weekend...it's a miracle no one was killed. Terrifying.
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statjuan
climber
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Thanks for the update. Glad everyone seems more or less ok. Amazing. We were the party ahead of them on Constellation. I was just racking up when they got to the base. At the top of the 3rd pitch, I was a little confused on where to go, and ended up going straight up some blocky terrain and belaying on a large block with a tree that had a bunch of tat and 2 rap rings on it. I backed this up with a couple of cams in the crack in the back of the block. Looking at the guide book this morning, it seemed like I might have been right of the proper belay. We ended up traversing over to the Long Climb and finishing there, meeting Ryan a few minutes before the accident.
Maybe I was at a different belay, otherwise incredibly lucky it didn't cut when I was on it, as their party would have been in the line of rockfall.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Glad to hear that no one died up there this time. Some rumors were going around...
This business of following other parties up this area of the rock, even if the other party in on an adjacent route, is not smart. Be the first one's there or do something else.
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ryan_monroe
Sport climber
Pasadena
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Oh! You were the guys that I asked if I could pass to the right! I ended up not doing that because of rope drag issues (and later, solo'ing a section right beneath you to retrieve some gear before fixing the line for the rescue)
I hope the rest of your climb was good! Juan and melissa, right? Can't remember :-)
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statjuan
climber
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That was us. Yeah, that pitch is super short but for a reason, as it's far from a straight line. Thanks for assisting in the rescue. I had already topped out when it happened and didn't hear anything that seemed like I could assist with, but was worried there was. Had a good look at the base as it happened and was relieved to not be able to see anyone down there. Heard from a friend in the parking lot that a couple of people were at the base (probably further down) who just turned and ran and ended up being ok.
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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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So glad it didn't end worse and best wishes to those involved. To echo what others have said - bad idea to climb under anyone in that area of tahquitz, I simply refuse to do it.
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Esparza
Trad climber
Westminster, CA
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Took this around 2:15pm after returning from Angels Fright. The climbers observed on whodunit.... Don't see anyone on the lower pitches of Consolation.... Epic and glad everyone is alive and mostly well... gulp.
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ryan_monroe
Sport climber
Pasadena
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Re: Juan - glad to hear that you guys are good and nobody else was hurt. Good thing those people weren't on route yet!!! You two climb at stronghold right? See you there :-)
Got word from the injured climber:
Fractured shoulder
Five broken ribs
Pierced lung
Going into reconstructive surgery for the shoulder tomorrow.
But he's in one piece
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statjuan
climber
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And of course the route we were on was Consolation, not 5.12 slab. I had done it a few years back but traversed onto Whodunit to top out. I was thus too stubborn to consult the guide book (which would have alerted me to the correct name of the route) and figured I'd be able to read the route for the direct finish. This unwillingness to look at the topo seemingly lead me to the wrong ledge, and quite possibly saved lives. Next time I get a hard time for not being willing to ask directions, I can cite this.
Thanks for keeping us all updated about the climbers condition. Speedy recovery!
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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I've been spending some time up there in the back country recently- after the rain, snows, ice and run-off this winter, there's quite a bit of loose stuff everywhere.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Might be a good idea to let that North Face chill for a while, especially from White Maiden to the North Buttress. Spring rockfall is really dangerous, I saw a giant block (4'x4'x6') wiggle loose from an off route climber near white maiden while I was on Super Pooper with Ryan from town and have seen countless small incidents / seen / heard of rockfall, from two friends from Nomad on Edgehogs in 2009 to a handful of well documented fatalities on Sahara terror... too many come to mind.
I probably won't end up staying away, Long Climb and Whodunnit are just too good and if I can get someone to lead the odd pitches would be great to get back on edgehogs on the easier leads... might just go sport climbing though, too.
Hoping for a fast recovery for the injured climber and that they are able to get the support medically and financially to allow that to happen.
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ryan_monroe
Sport climber
Pasadena
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This business of following other parties up this area of the rock, even if the other party in on an adjacent route, is not smart. Be the first one's there or do something else.
I'd consider myself pretty competent, but I didn't know that the NEB was especially dangerous for climbers below. Perhaps we should make sure this is prominent on the MP and ST descriptions for the NEB? I don't frequent supertopo so it might already be there....
By the way, sorry for us being late to the party on posting this! We were pretty beat last night and pretty much passed out when we got home (or at least I did)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, all...
prayers for the injured climber...
so very glad it was not worse... oh my...
thanks for sharing, and for updates...
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Ouch. Sounds like some really painful injuries, but I'm so glad he gets to live! Best of luck with the shoulder especially.
BAd
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Got word from the injured climber:
Fractured shoulder
Five broken ribs
Pierced lung
Going into reconstructive surgery for the shoulder tomorrow.
But he's in one piece
Thanks for the update and I hope for the injured climber's full recovery.
It is the mountains, and each spring tends to bring a load of new objective hazards to look out for. Years like this year especially and situational awareness is critical. Maybe it's just the geologist in me, but the weathering process stops for no one. It's part of the adventure, like it or not. Kind of ups the ante when climbing in the NW Recess.
Good job helping with the rescue up there! Brings home the importance of staying up on those techniques along with first aid.
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Murf
climber
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Good thoughts going out to the injured climber, here's to a full recovery.
For those on scene, what do you consider the 3rd pitch?
As I recall, the sloping ledge shared with the second pitch of Long/Wong would be the 3rd guidebook pitch. I do believe that many make that belay in 2 pitches.
After that belay, you do the crux "double cracks" and the typical finishes is to either cross to Whodunit, or you move left to join Long/Wong. The territory between Consolation and Whodunit is a bowling alley, and it wouldn't surprise me that was where the rockfall occurred.
Anything more precise on location of the rockfall?
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csjamieson
Trad climber
CA
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I think you're right, murf. It may be the fourth guide book pitch. It's about 20 feet further up the immediate dihedral, past where the picture ends, where the rock fall occurred. (taken with permission of the injured party)
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csjamieson
Trad climber
CA
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This is a better perspective of where the rock fall occurred from my vantage near whodunit.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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...but I didn't know that the NEB was especially dangerous for climbers below. ...Perhaps we should make sure this is prominent on the MP and ST descriptions for the NEB? I don't frequent supertopo so it might already be there....
For this warning I'd focus on the NW Recess; everything from Long Climb over to Sahara Terror. The scarred up trees under that section of the rock tell the story.
But then again I was hanging out with some friends over by Sh#t For Brains one day. The furthest thing from our minds was rockfall. A beautiful young newly-wed couple was climbing Fingertrip. Hubby was belaying at the top of P2, his wife had just started climbing the pitch. Right then an air conditioner sized block cut loose from the rubble strewn ledges at the top of Jensen's Jaunt. It hit the rock just above the husband, and split in two. One half missed him climber's right by a foot or two. The other half missed him climber's left and shattered on the ledge his wife stood on moments before. They bailed and joined us at the base. Husband in tears, wife unnaturally giddy. Another party on El Camino Real got sprayed with debris and bailed as well.
My wife refuses to go back to Tahquitz to this day after she saw that display of granitic malfeasance.
I was surprised how large a span of the rock was impacted by this rock fall.
There weren't climbers on the ledge where the rock came from, but it was one of the first hot days of the season.
Heads up out there folks. Despite its proximity to an urban center, Tahquitz is in many respects an alpine style crag. Bring your route finding skills, situational awareness, and a sixth sense for danger.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Tahquitz ranks up there with some of the classic choss heaps of the Cascades and Rockies.
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ambyrlnn
Sport climber
San Diego
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Unfortunately, there were two people right at the base when the rocks came flying down...my boyfriend and I had finished Long Climb earlier in the day and were back at the base retrieving our stashed gear before we hiked down. We got our stuff and had just started walking across the base towards the trail. The rest is kind of fuzzy...I thought I heard someone yell 'Rock!" and then suddenly my boyfriend screamed at me to RUN. By random chance, he happened to be watching the climber when he fell, so he immediately knew the severity of what was about to hit us in a few seconds. As I turned to run I glanced up for a split second and saw a lot of movement coming down the face right above us. Within seconds debris started whizzing past me. I dove between two smaller rocks and covered my head. My boyfriend made it behind a large boulder. I could hear the bigger rocks smashing around us. Within a few seconds it stopped. Dust was everywhere. My boyfriend ran up to ask if everyone was ok. We ended up with cuts and bruises but no major injuries. It was an extremely scary and unreal experience. I'm beyond thankful that everyone made it out semi-ok.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Tahquitz ranks up there with some of the classic choss heaps of the Cascades and Rockies.
Yes and no. There are some great climbs with little risk of being made into hamburger by falling granite refrigerators...
The White Maiden.
The Vampire and it's neighbors on the bulge.
Fred and its Flintstone Slab neighbors (although Fred has that triangular flake/block near the start. It could last 10,000 years or come out tomorrow. I cringe when I see someone up there with gear behind that thing.)
Everything from Traitor Horn/Open Book on up around on the SW face.
I was hiding in the shade of the tree at the start of Fred one day with Chelsea Griffie. It was oppressively hot and the sun was baking the rock. Then, CRACK! BAM! It took a minute to figure out what happened. It wasn't rock fall. It turned out that the heat had caused a section of what appeared to be solid clean granite about halfway across to Angel's Fright, and about 4 feet up from the ground, to exfoliate from the face. The exfoliation was about 2 inches thick, pieces were spread around the ledge. Its point of origin on the face was obvious.
and then suddenly my boyfriend screamed at me to RUN.
Whew. A close call for sure all the way around. Thank God no one got seriously maimed or killed.
I always sit behind a big tree when I'm hanging out there.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Yikes! That story is nuts. Thanks for sharing Amber.
Heads up out there folks. Despite its proximity to an urban center, Tahquitz is in many respects an alpine style crag. Bring your route finding skills, situational awareness, and a sixth sense for danger.
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mersek
Trad climber
fullerton
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Unfortunately, there were two people right at the base when the rocks came flying down...
I knew I saw two people at the base of the climb! My partner and I were on Whodunit above csjamieson's party when the block fell and I could have sworn I saw some of the shrapnel narrowly miss someone at the base.
Glad to hear you two are okay!
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Olsen A
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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I seem to recall the death of a young climber in the spring of 2013 caused by rockfall on The Vampire.
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Carrier
climber
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Happy to hear that the injuries weren't any worse. I heared there was rock fall the next morning but no specifics and ended up climbing the long climb, wong variation, the following day. We were the only party on long climb. It seemed like someone had bailed as I found a completely set up anchor on the route. I made sure no other parties were around who could have left it and I cleaned the anchor figuring it was someone who went to help with the rescue. If anyone is looking for their gear please email me.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Great thread, other than the leader fall. Sorry..
Thanks for all the educational posts!
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ryan_monroe
Sport climber
Pasadena
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Unfortunately, there were two people right at the base when the rocks came flying down... Glad you guys made it out OK! There was another group below us, without helmets (!) who were missed by <10ft, or so I hear.
If anyone is looking for their gear please email me. Generous of you! I have sent you David's contact info (he was the belayer of the injured climber)
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Carrier
climber
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Ryan I'm new to this super topo thing and for some reason haven't received an email from you with David , the belayer', info. My email is carrier.tfl@gmail.com. Can you try emailing separate from supertooo to see if that works . Thanks a lot.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Carrier... Get out while you can.. supertopo that is...
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ryan_monroe
Sport climber
Pasadena
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No problem! Email (and proof) sent. Or I could have just said that the anchor had a #1, #2 and a big nut...
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RhoadsClimbs
Trad climber
Madison, WI
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This mountain doesn't seem to have alot of random rockfall. Every falling debris I have ever seen or heard has been from climbers. The loose stuff is mostly high up and east (left) White Maiden, there's a rotten band after the chimney patch on Whodunit that is pretty gnarly to the left and right.
If it looks iffy don't place or climb on it unless you have to climb on it. Don't place behind loose stuff ever as if you fall you could pull it, run it out to solid gear or bail.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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If it looks iffy don't place or climb on it unless you have to climb on it.
I'm reading this as:
Don't climb Whodunnit or Long Climb.
Each has a large, pretty damn unstable block that you have to negotiate. The one on Long climb might have gone, it was above the ledge that starts pitch 3 and was marked with an X (haven't been on it in a few years). Whodunnit has a loose pillar on the pitch above the offwidth/chimney that is gonna go inevitably. wobbly as all get out.
So yeah, just don't climb those two routes anymore, or until they shed. Then hopefully there isn't MORE loose rock that got jostled after those two blocks fall.
OR just roll the dice in the alpine as we all do...
OR go sport climbing!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Whodunnit has a loose pillar on the pitch above the offwidth/chimney that is gonna go inevitably. wobbly as all get out.
Greg, first time up Whodunnit, the leader of that pitch stopped right at that medium sized refrig pillar and built the anchor on it. I climb up and see the situation, my geology alarms went off big time; dude, lets anchor to something else, anything else. And don't touch that block ever again, lol! I love that climb, but never touch that block.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Make sure to write that down on laminated paper and leave it at the base... unless everyone reads ST...
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Hmmm, good point Greg. Everyone belays from just above the chimney and if the pillar cuts loose the belayer is right in the path. Safest place to be would be at the bottom of the chimney...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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This mountain doesn't seem to have alot of random rockfall..
Actually it does. I wouldn't call it random, but rather natural. Gravity never sleeps.
Of course people knock things off. But the biggest falls I've seen happened when no one was anywhere near the source. And the warm-up after winter is the prime time.
Does anyone remember when The Step released about a ton of granite? Then there's the one I described upthread, and the time I was climbing Zeno's Paradox and watched a basketball sized block impact right next to a guy while belaying his leader in the Mummy Pitch (it was early, no one was above.) He got shrapnelled, and screamed until he couldn't scream anymore. Later he had fit of common sense, and had a gear sale in Humber Park. And then there was the time I was sitting behind a tree under that NW Recess when a bunch of softball sized rocks came whizzing through. It would have been like getting hit by a cannon ball. It was 7:30AM, I seriously doubt there was anyone up there.
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RhoadsClimbs
Trad climber
Madison, WI
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I should clarify I guess. Climb the loose block if you have to but for the love of God don't place behind it, a take could rip it out.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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What you want to do on those routes is to sneak up the rock. Quiet concentration, always aware. Just because the climb is going easily, and the day is beautiful doesn't mean that things can't go totally to sh×t with a single misjudgement of the rock.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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No kidding! Did something easy over there with Juan de Fuca and he only let me lead one pitch. It was like climbing on a pile of marbles. Definitely in cat's feet mode, I was afraid to breathe.
I forgave him, though.
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Albert Kernberg
Social climber
Los Angeles
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Jul 17, 2017 - 01:05pm PT
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Not really looking to revive this thread, but as the injured climber it seems as though I should comment.
Eternally grateful to the rescue personnel, my climbing partner and Ryan. Without each of you involved, I'm sure the outcome of my accident would have been quite different. Ryan, thank you for everything. Including immediate access to your father and most importantly making sure David was able to get off the rock safely. I'm sure I'll see you around and will provide all the long hugs necessary for such an assist. Thank you!
I'm most regretful of the other climbers I endangered. Ambyrlnn, I hate that I caused an event which nearly injured you and your boyfriend. I'm sorry. I'm happy you two were not injured.
Rock fall occurred when I attempted to mantel over a large block. The ledge was sloping and I attempted to mantel at the lowest point. Stupid mistake which nearly killed me and injured other climbers. As the rock broke, it pushed me into a wall, then fell first, followed by me. As mentioned in other threads I broke my scapula, glenoid, lots of ribs and punctured my left lung. Had I fell first, the rock would have killed me. For me, I'm happy it didn't happen. Additionally, I'm happy Ryan didn't assist David with lowering my body.
I'm doing physical therapy, regaining movement in my arm and enjoying a lot of time with my wonderful family. Thank you for all the stranger 'get wells'. It means a lot.
Joe
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 17, 2017 - 01:51pm PT
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Best of luck to you in recovery.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Jul 17, 2017 - 02:56pm PT
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Glad to hear you are doing ok, heal up. Thanks for posting and letting us know.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jul 17, 2017 - 03:21pm PT
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Thanks for posting up, Albert. Glad you are well.
Scott
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 17, 2017 - 03:37pm PT
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Great to hear you are recovering. Funny, I was recounting a story about a rockfall incident on Tahquitz around 1990 to a friend the other night. We both thought of your accident and wondered how you are doing. That's a great post you wrote (except for the bit about not wanting to resurrect this thread:-) I think everyone here is pleased to hear your progress report.
I wrote up an account of the rockfall which I witnessed 27 years ago. It could use a good editor, but here it is.
There is a route on Tahquitz Rock called Zeno’s Paradox. It’s not a complete climb, but rather one beautiful pitch, a sort of variation to The White Maiden’s Walkway. Its exposed location, high on the steep left side of the White Maidens’ Buttress gives the climber an excellent view into the North-West Recess including all the trade routes from The Long Climb over to WhoDunnit.
Zeno’s begins by climbing up and left from the top of pitch two on The White Maiden’s Walkaway into the base of an intimidating left facing corner. After a good stretch of strenuous lay-backing the corner arches left. This is the crux, where one must climb through the overhang onto a steep face protected by a bolt or two… It looks like El Camino Real on steroids.
Standing at the airy perch at the base of the corner, I took in the view. Below me to my left there was a fellow sitting comfortably on the ledge at the top of pitch one of The Long Climb. His leader was doing business with pitch two, The Mummy Crack. They appeared to be having a casual time.
I was about halfway to the roof when I heard the dreaded call from above: “ROCK!!!” I froze, locked my foot into the crack, and searched the sky for the bombardment to come. It must have taken a big bounce off one of those sloping ledges up high since it was way out in the air – not tumbling down the rock face. It was at least a cubic foot in size, and I watched with fascination as it dropped silently into the cool shade of the North-West Recess, ever closer to the cliff as it fell. Then it hit.
The point of impact was the ledge, right next to the afore-mentioned belayer on the Long climb. There was flash and explosion like a grenade. The ledge and climber were obscured by a cloud of dust. As the air cleared, the belayer began screaming until his lungs were empty. He gasped for air like a drowning man breaking the surface of the water. Then came another awesome primal scream. As this process repeated itself I realized there was another person yelling as well; my partner, back around the corner, who could hear but not see what was happening. It was past time for me to get back to work. Charged with a crazy kind of energy I swarmed up the rest of the pitch like a man possessed.
Later, in Humber Park we met the fellow who was so nearly killed. He looked like a Civil War Veteran, a white bandage around his head and his left arm in a makeshift sling, streaks of dried blood on his face and clothes. He was propped up in the bed of a pickup drinking Coronas and selling his climbing gear. I told him what I had seen, and that he was very lucky. “Your screams were most impressive. You should be an opera singer with a voice like that.”
“I don’t know what you’re talking about.”
His partner passed around some beers and we all had a good laugh.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jul 17, 2017 - 04:29pm PT
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Joe/Albert, it's great to see your post!
Best wishes for a full recovery.
Phyl
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 17, 2017 - 09:26pm PT
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Good progress report Joe/Albert. Stick with the physical therapy, and hopefully you'll be back at it, good as new. My wife is a PT so I can say from experience that it's a good idea to listen to, and do, whatever they say (haha). Seriously though, good luck on the rehab - get after it.
A general comment: Seems to me that anybody who has spent any time climbing around the north side of Tahquitz has at least one rockfall story (usually multiple) they can relate. That says something. It is the nature of the Tahquitz beast, always be heads up over there, whether climbing or on the ground. Even when doing nothing more than briefly traversing the base it always feels like a war zone of sorts, where bombs can potentially arrive with little or no warning.
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Albert Kernberg
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Jul 18, 2017 - 09:30am PT
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Thanks everyone. No intentions to sell gear. Depending how bouldering and gym crack sessions go, I'll be back for the Josh and Red Rocks season.
Joe
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jul 18, 2017 - 10:44am PT
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Or just climb over @ shady,solid Suicide...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 18, 2017 - 12:04pm PT
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Or just climb over @ shady,solid Suicide...
That's been my gig for a while. I figure I've done what I'm ever going to on Tahquitz so why risk getting flattened now ;-)
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Jul 18, 2017 - 12:16pm PT
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Joe,
Great to hear that you are recovering and (of course) your first person narrative of what happened.
Like others, I've witnessed the unpredictability of rockfall at Tahquitz, and how once solid seeming features can dangerously loosen over a season or two.
Best wishes,
Randy
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 18, 2017 - 12:28pm PT
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Albert, glad to hear your healing up and looking forward to getting back out on the rock. And thanks for posting up your version of what happened to you.
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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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Jul 18, 2017 - 12:32pm PT
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So glad to hear your are healing well, best wishes.
Dhayan
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 18, 2017 - 01:22pm PT
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Good to see your on the mend...
so many of these incidents end with the injured climber never returning to the sport.
Good luck with the recovery.
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Albert Kernberg
climber
Los Angeles
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Apr 30, 2018 - 03:51pm PT
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It's been a year and this is for me.
In all ways, this has been the best year of my life.
Physical therapy f*#king sucks, but is 100% necessary.
Back to running laps on gym cracks and bouldering outdoor slabs. Plan on getting back to placing gear in a month or two.
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krahmes
Social climber
Stumptown
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Apr 30, 2018 - 09:53pm PT
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Good on you Albert. Probably a little worse for the wear, but wiser. That is how life goes. Fair travels.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Nice, Albert. Good to hear. May your little epic be the worst you ever experience in the mountains. Some good advice on this thread, too.
BAd
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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This business of following other parties up this area of the rock, even if the other party in on an adjacent route, is not smart. Be the first one's there or do something else.
Wise words Kris. I nearly died on Sahara Terror back in the '80s when my partner almost pulled a refrigerator block off. The next day it cut loose when a leader pulled on it; his belayer bled to death on the belay ledge below from a severed arm.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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I'd consider myself pretty competent, but I didn't know that the NEB was especially dangerous for climbers below. Perhaps we should make sure this is prominent on the MP and ST descriptions for the NEB? I don't frequent supertopo so it might already be there....
Not being below other parties is pretty good advice ANYWHERE loose rock is found. Most routes in the sierra and other alpine areas fit this.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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I always felt that the North Face of Tahquitz was largely a rubble pile. There are some fun lines that follow faces or features between the junk corners, and a few of the longer crack systems are middling. But these are few and far between. There's a reason that the base of the wall is talus field, growing by the season. The fact that more people haven't been injured up there is remarkable. Same with the north face of Middle Cathedral in Yosemite. Crap rains down the wall 24-7.
Anything right of White Maiden is usually sound. To the left - not so much.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Coming from the PNW I found Tahquitz’ N Face bomber! But then I also loved Tiny Tim’s
“Tiptoe Through The Tulips.”
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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nothing new it's been going on since the dawn of time, ZZZZZ.
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| Messages 1 - 82 of total 82 in this topic |
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