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chefer
Trad climber
Altadena, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 27, 2017 - 09:50pm PT
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what a special place. have met many a interesting character up in that little hole in a rock. Sitting in there at sunset, having a good conversation with people you've never met and will probably never see again... it really is something
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 28, 2017 - 09:30am PT
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Me and Yabo smoked a dewbie near there
One could say that about almost any spot in JT... :>)
Warbler.... you think?
A very special place for climbers.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 28, 2017 - 10:44am PT
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Warbler, to be specific, the "you think" was directed towards your statement about greatest climbing contribution, not the fact you were the first, Dean told me it was Largo.....
I remember Dean showing me the way into the space station in 1974... it was a known fact that only climbers ever visited the place... the special few bold enuf to free solo into it.
We knew we were out of reach from the tools and you could relax, blaze and keep tabs on the goings on in HVCG.
I guess now days people get rescued from it, probably has bolted rap anchors to boot.
I haven't been to it in ages, You?
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 10:46am PT
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My brother and I got in there early 70's with our stepdad, JW. Not sure of the date, but I don't recall him having a name for it. He had been in there before.
Here is a picture of "testing" some homemade gear in the vicinity.
That is me in the goofy sweater
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 11:45am PT
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The park service has tried to seal it up with rocks. Some idiots decided it would be a good idea to "enhance" them with more paint ;-(
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 28, 2017 - 12:25pm PT
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Largo would never stretch the truth, Guy 😆
No-way... the man is a journalist, the keeper of the record. HoHo-Man
StahlBro.... looks like you had one quality upbringing.
good times.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 12:28pm PT
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Some poor Mojave indian on peyote probably ended up there around 600 ad.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 28, 2017 - 01:52pm PT
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My first time in there was possibly '73 but definitely by early '74.
I would be surprised if folks hadn't been in there decades before. People tend to forget how hardcore the pioneering types were back in the day.
The first visit could have been by Bill Keyes or maybe Norman Clyde!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 01:57pm PT
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Warbler,
Great story about the sunset and missile contrails from Space Station Number One!
Thanks for sharing.
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Apr 28, 2017 - 02:42pm PT
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One wasn't a real climber unless they climbed it at night, during the dark side of the moon.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 03:34pm PT
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Certainly possible that people had ventured up there before, but then again maybe not. If Woody were still around, he might be able to offer a pretty strong opinion. Regardless of the places that white folk think they were the first to tread, I always feel pretty certain believing that Native Americans or some other hardy settler had been there before. All kind of cairns and artifacts found on top of peaks in the Sierra and Wind Rivers. Heck, the first people who thought they were the first to climb Warlock Needle (no easy summit there) found a cairn on top.
I probably first went up there with Eric Held just out of high school, though it could have been with Bob Cox (the Kid--one of many with that nickname) or Bob Critchfield, may be even Nabolsi.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 28, 2017 - 04:08pm PT
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I remember a "Ulysses Bivouac" that the "Desert Rats" used.....
but I will go with Warbler's claim .... I mean one must "climb" with exposure to make it to the slot.
I can't see some sourdough pioneer angling to get up their.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 04:24pm PT
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John W used to hang with Woody a lot back then. I would be pretty surprised if they both weren't up there in the late 60's.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 04:37pm PT
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While I agree with Stahlbro, Guy makes an interesting point. If they had climbed up there, it might have made it's way into that old orange guide (I think the one before it was red, but that's before my time) and I don't remember seeing it in there. It was a pretty slim guide back in the day. That classic shot of a young Woody on the Waterchute...
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Apr 28, 2017 - 04:39pm PT
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I remember having a lot of great times in there.
Always a good time
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 04:55pm PT
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I have the original 1970 guide that John gave me, along with all the rest. My mom married John the year it was published. There were a lot interesting things that never made it in there.
The great thing about JT back then was the fact that many things were done and not talked about much outside of the circles of friends. That allowed for people to keep having adventures ;-)
I witnessed some of the old school do some pretty good stuff in Pivetta Cortinas and gym shoes.
Peace out.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 06:59pm PT
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Hi Kevin,
John is still alive, but my mom and John divorced quite a while ago. My mom has passed away.
I may be working on a historical project for JT climbing, and as part of that I will contact John again. I will make a note to ask about the Space Station. I will also check with my brother Dave and see what he recalls.
Edit
Saying there was little to talk about except what a particular group was doing seems a little harsh.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 07:21pm PT
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Got it.
Cheers.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Apr 28, 2017 - 08:51pm PT
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Doo Doo Head
Ice climber
Doo Doo Land, just past Feces Town
Apr 28, 2017 - 08:47pm PT
I could see some crazy desert hermit going berserk up there with a sniper rifle
Let's not give Cosmic any ideas, mmkay?
Raise your hand if you got a BJ at twilight up there....
Yeah dawg...
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Apr 29, 2017 - 09:00am PT
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In addition to Space Station One there were others.
If I remember right Space Station Two is where the Hobbit Hole is. It involved traveling more distance, being high could be quite challenging at night. One memorable time was at night in a snow storm. Once in the hole we didn't want to leave, going back into the harsh conditions to try and find camp.
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