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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
bhorowitz
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 22, 2017 - 12:47am PT
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I'm hoping to spend a bunch of time in the Valley early on this summer before the snow melts in the Sierra and was looking around for some climbs with accessible top rope anchors between partners or when I'm feeling anti social. I currently have a 70m dynamic rope, but might spring for a 100m static if there is a need. I'm comfortable working with a single line and have my system fairly dialed.
Preferably out of the way (lower merced?), shady (at least part of the day), and fun! Mostly interested in 5.11 cracks, but would be love to try out some particularly awesome 5.12s (or classic 5.10s like Five and Dime).
How hard it is to get to the top of Cookie cliff (Nabisco Wall stuff)? What about This and That (for Tips)? Or Fingerlickin/Pinky Paralysis?
Thanks!
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The real McCoy from the inside of my van.
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Apr 22, 2017 - 06:19am PT
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Derelicts Delight, 11c up by the couch is good, sustained, and you can walk up to the top anchor spot ( decent little tree with supplementary gear). I would mention, however, there have been two rock falls in the vacinity this week, so depending on when you are coming I might let it settle down a little first.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 22, 2017 - 08:35am PT
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Yer gonna . . .
need more rope.
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bhorowitz
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2017 - 09:09am PT
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I also have another 70m rope and 60m rope too...
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little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
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Apr 22, 2017 - 09:15am PT
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shoot, I thought Andy Borowitz had started posting to ST, but it's just B. Horowitz. Have fun Mr. H.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 22, 2017 - 10:32am PT
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Check out Little Wing, and Killer Pillar
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 22, 2017 - 01:25pm PT
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Generator Crack has the number 10c attached to it. No matter, gives plenty of 5.11 climbers fits and is easy to set up and great for wide crack practice. Can't think of too many 5.11 cracks easy to set up. Go to the top of Arch Rock and you have the last pitch of New Demensions and you could rap down and set up the first pitch of Leanie Meanie. I have also heard that some folks climb up the moderate Overhang Bypass to set up a rope on Overhang Overpass.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 22, 2017 - 02:35pm PT
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Short Circuit is 12- and easy to set up with the hard climbing up high which is always nice when soloing. If you have small hands it may be a bit easier.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Apr 22, 2017 - 02:51pm PT
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I have also heard that some folks climb up the moderate Overhang Bypass to set up a rope on Overhang Overpass.
That would be a fun day.
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bhorowitz
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2017 - 12:36pm PT
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Anybody know if it is possible to scramble to set up a tr on Tips or Pinky Paralysis?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 24, 2017 - 01:27pm PT
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> How hard it is to get to the top of Cookie cliff (Nabisco Wall stuff)?
Fairly easy. You hike left up along the base from Hardd and eventually there is an easy 3rd class break in the wall. Then back right to the top of Butterfingers. Be very careful up top, though - don't knock stuff down on the people below.
> What about This and That (for Tips)?
Probably quite hard to find the top, but should be possible with multiple tries.
> Or Fingerlickin
Have setup a TR on this; it is fairly easy. Though probably lots of poison oak on the approach hike these days.
The crack is often wet as well.
> Pinky Paralysis?
Have also approached this from above - fairly hard. Involves bushwhacking and a couple of rappels.
One you did not mention but that is fairly easy to set up is Short But Thin - do the 5.7 start of Sacherer Cracker to reach the anchor.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Apr 24, 2017 - 09:52pm PT
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You could probably get a long cheater stick and solo aid up all kinds of stuff at the Mecca, Church Bowl (Energizer) and Chapel Wall.
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Apr 25, 2017 - 11:14am PT
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I've solo aided Drive by Shooting at Chapel wall in a matter of minutes to set up a TR. You can also access Double Dragon that way. Not really cracks, but awesome routes and they stay relatively dry. I think I just had a ski pole with a stick clip attachment. I think if you are willing to aid up some cracks, you can get a lot more out of it rather than walking around that could take the same amount of time.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Apr 25, 2017 - 01:19pm PT
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You could Short Circuit in the morning, boulder traverse the base of middle cathedral in the midday and hit Generator crack in the afternoon. Repeat until they're easy.
Never got to them being easy...
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Gunks Ray
Trad climber
Gunks
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Apr 25, 2017 - 02:12pm PT
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Five and Dime is pretty easy to set up as a TR if you have some longish slings, a range of cams, and a 70m. I set it up like that a few years ago when I was out there with my wife and kid. You approach from the top so you go by the ledge where you would set the anchors on the way to the base of the crack, just a short scramble.
Pretty solid crack, and definitely worth doing.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Apr 25, 2017 - 04:25pm PT
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Easy to drop a rope on Nabisco Wall. You could probably do Butterballs and Butterfingers in one pitch with a 70 meter rope. Make sure to give way to folks leading the routes. Also I remember dropping a rope on Tips but can't remember details of the approach. Short Circuit is a don't miss crack. You can easily drop a rope on Back to the Future with two different 5.12 sections. Gold Rush, Road Side Attraction and River Boulder are also easy TRs.
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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
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