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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 11, 2017 - 12:57pm PT
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I don't get inspired by bolted lines. They just seem like a random collection of holds selected by some guy who happens to own a drill.
Cracks, on the other hand, have a natural, aesthetic appeal, and getting up them requires such specialized techniques for each size, and the mental control to work out how to protect it. They are full value climbing!
Discuss.
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Apr 11, 2017 - 01:59pm PT
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I have always loved cracks, sometimes to the point of myopia. Once a long time ago I could only see routes as a function of the cracks they contained and threw myself at this overhanging wide thing that proved to be ridiculously difficult and strenuous to get up (made it though, on lead and before I knew anything about how to actually climb offwidth). Several years later a friend led me up the same climb but used a series of interesting face holds and stemming that made the route go about 2 grades easier than what I had done, and a lot more enjoyable. Since then I have sincerely tried to be more open minded about the type of free climbs I do, but I still have an affection bordering on weakness for cracks. I just really like cracks.
Charlie Pitts BITD
Jimmy Newberry BITD
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 11, 2017 - 04:18pm PT
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What about bolted sport-climb cracks????
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 11, 2017 - 04:51pm PT
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Most enjoyable for me are long, traditional climbs that serve up all types of climbing and require skill in gear placing, route finding and moving quickly and efficiently. It's what we always simply called...."climbing."
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 11, 2017 - 04:58pm PT
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I just climb the cracks for the articles.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Apr 11, 2017 - 05:12pm PT
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I prefer cracks, cuz when I get scared, I can plug in a piece.
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Matteo M
climber
San Diego
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Apr 11, 2017 - 05:47pm PT
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I can get behind the whole crack climbing thing... Especially on fine granite where trickery is involved.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Apr 11, 2017 - 06:34pm PT
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some cracks texture bring tactile pleasure. my favorite touch - is Sacherer Cracker
Generally crack moves produce more dopamine in the body per meter vs face climb.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 11, 2017 - 06:55pm PT
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Some sport climbs are great, they follow a natural line. Flashflood and Gorgeous in the Owens River Gorge are such climbs. Others are more like a game of connecting the dots, a collection of holds as well put above.
A crack is usually definitive. That's it. To paraphrase Andrew "Dice" Clay, either you go up or you do not go up.
Some of my favorite routes follow natural lines including crack climbing sections and face climbing protected with bolts. Swept Away and Hang 'Em High in Josh come to mind. Or Blankety Blank and Fred at Tahquitz come to mind.
Then of course there is the purity of following one crack from bottom to top. The Needles is full of these.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 11, 2017 - 07:41pm PT
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wrt thread topic: your point being?
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Apr 11, 2017 - 07:45pm PT
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I like crack climbs that link discontinuous sections, requiring mandatory moves into the next crack before you can place any gear. The Black Canyon comes to mind. Actually got a little tired of the Utah sandstone crack lines where you can always hang if need be.
Arne
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Apr 11, 2017 - 07:53pm PT
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Have your cake and eat it too ...
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Apr 11, 2017 - 08:55pm PT
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Once you dial a size, cracks get very repetitive. Still a blast, and I love long splitters, but the climbs that stick out have features, variety in movement, and some spice.
I'm a much better crack than face climber, and that kept me away from sport climbing for a long time. You are completely limiting yourself if you think cracks are inherently better.
edit: see what Arne said above
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Apr 11, 2017 - 08:57pm PT
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Hey Kris- I was happily stunned to realize that the warrior is a single crack line! That thing has some variety to it....
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2017 - 10:05pm PT
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Darwin, my point was that I like crack climbing. Seemed clear enough to me.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Apr 11, 2017 - 11:53pm PT
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charlie don't dial-a-size!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Apr 12, 2017 - 03:42am PT
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Gear is pain in the ass and shoulders.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Apr 12, 2017 - 04:12am PT
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sorry you guys are so one dimentional ;) cracks are great but aretts beg to be climbed as well. so do towering faces and buttresses.
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ec
climber
ca
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Apr 17, 2017 - 10:56pm PT
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I don't get inspired by bolted lines. They just seem like a random collection of holds selected by some guy who happens to own a drill.
Cracks, on the other hand, have a natural, aesthetic appeal, and getting up them requires such specialized techniques for each size, and the mental control to work out how to protect it. They are full value climbing!
Bwhahaha! Randomness is found in both venues, with natural, aesthetic appeal, and getting up them requires such specialized techniques for each size, and the mental control to work out how to protect it. I suppose rap protected bolted lines are the exception here? Edit: oh, yeah, 'Sport.'
Variety IS the spice of life!
 ec
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