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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I've heard that George Lowe -- no alpine slouch himself -- has a story about keeping up with Peter Habeler
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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rgold! I wish I could say I was inspired by his feat.
Shudder.
I still have too many Eiger stories in my mind, even though I have never dared any side of the mountain.
My Fav story from a Tom Patey & Don Whillams attempt & retreat.
A Short Walk With Whillans by Tom Patey
Eiger North Face
There is something about Don’s proverbial bluntness that arouses one’s admiration. Of such stuff are generals made. We had a short discussion about bivouacking, but eventually I had to agree with his arguments and occupy the outer berth. It would be less likely to induce claustrophobia, or so I gathered.
“I’ll have one of your cigarettes,” said Don. “I’ve only brought Gauloises.” This was a statement of fact, not a question.
Then later in this classic story:
“I’m going down,” he said. “That’s what’s going on.”
“Wait a minute! Let’s discuss the whole situation calmly.” I stretched out one hand to flick the ash off my cigarette. Then a most unusual thing happened. There was a higher pitched “WROUFF” than usual and the end of my cigarette disappeared! It was the sort of subtle touch that Hollywood film directors dream about.
“I see what you mean,” I said. “I’m going down too.”
For this whole “must read” story go to the archives of Rock & Ice: http://rockandice.com/articles/people/article/687-a-short-walk-with-whillans?showall=1
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Good news.
We at SuperTopo are a good demographic for it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Bravo Maestro Habeler!
Very well done and you are an inspiration, sir.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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At 32 and again at 74, WOW, WOW, WOW!
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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right ON! Habeler is on my fantasy list of " With whom I would like to share a beer or two and a long conversation" (Messner is already checked off)
Much inspiration to stay off the couch.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Allez Peter!
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Very inspiring. By all accounts a great guy,and someone with whom it would be a pleasure to share a rope with. Right on Peter!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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BOOM!!
Now let's see if his old competitor Reinhold Messner can still get it up!! Errr I mean still get up it....
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Chapeau!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Unreal.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Damn, I'd like to be able to do that, look like that, AND have my house paid off by the age of 74!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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It's so nice to see stories like this. Inspirational!
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WBraun
climber
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Definitely superman .....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Thanks Rich, for linking those Habeler interviews.
The guy brims with emotional intelligence.
It appears he's made no Faustian bargains with his life, remained true to himself, and continued to be productive on his own terms.
Impressive and encouraging. I gather he has a bulletproof immune system.
65 trips to the Himalaya!
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Breath taking Roy!
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Apr 10, 2017 - 12:52pm PT
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Didn't Hermann Buhl climb Nanga Parbat w/o oxygen? First ascent, too. Why's Messner's climb considered more significant?
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Apr 10, 2017 - 01:41pm PT
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Messner went back and soloed it w/o O2
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John Mac
Trad climber
Breckenridge, CO
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Apr 10, 2017 - 01:44pm PT
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I can't remember so could someone please help me out here ...
Why did Messner and Habeler stop climbing together?
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jstan
climber
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Apr 10, 2017 - 02:34pm PT
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Dingus Milktoast
Trad climber
Minister of Moderation, Fatcrackistan
Apr 10, 2017 - 02:29pm PT
Because locker's a dick.
DMT
That's why we let Dingus hang out here. Good one!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 11, 2017 - 05:31am PT
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LoCker is a dicK and also one of my favorite people on the forum.
His blunt, rumpled pie tin, humorous crust, and tangy insights are the bomb!
Suffice to say, physically he hasn't held pace with Habeler.
Donini has the genetics, but I think he's done it largely by being an irascible old bastard, who, like any good alpinist knows when to go down, and in general doesn't say no to life's obstacles.
It's not just genetic gifts, but an aptitude for self-actualization.
To me, this is Habeler.
It doesn't hurt that the employment climate for a guide in Europe was and remains much more conducive to success.
I read a few of Messner's books a while back, and in one of them there is an excellent account of his ascent of Hidden Peak/Gash 1 with Peter Habeler.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Apr 11, 2017 - 06:36am PT
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Haebler can't keep pace wit the dick in the huff tank...
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Apr 11, 2017 - 04:19pm PT
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Now let's see if his old competitor Reinhold Messner can still get it up!! Errr I mean still get up it...
Nah, they're friends again.
Photo Credit= Ed Webster
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Apr 11, 2017 - 04:47pm PT
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That picture is great. The 2 men most responsible for the modern Himilayan technical alpine style.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 11, 2017 - 04:56pm PT
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I spent several days with Peter in Chamonix in 2009 when we both were on the Piolet d'Or jury. He was very vibrant and handsome and looked at least a decade younger than his age. His climbing the Eiger at 74 is no surprise to me....I'll bet he does it when he turns 80.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 11, 2017 - 08:17pm PT
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From Wikipedia, about Habeler:
Habeler attempted to climb Everest again in 2000 but failed to do so due to fluid in his lungs.[7]
I saw Christine Boskoff, who perished with Charlie Fowler in China in 2006, give a slideshow in Boulder of Everest 2000, presumably, or maybe even detailing a subsequent trip as late as 2003-2005, as Peter was also there at Everest and I recall she said Habeler was then in his early 60s.
She recounted for the audience that she and Peter Habeler would race one another through the ice fall, timing themselves, and said he was incredibly fit and vivacious. She showed a picture or two of him and he still looked quite the part. Christine was impressed, as were all of us in the audience.
Too cool for school, that guy!
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Apr 11, 2017 - 08:52pm PT
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I originally read the title of this thread as "Habeler climbs the North Face of Eiger in '74" and I thought well, duh, doesn't everybody know that?
The dude was a stud back then and still continues to be a stud!
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Apr 12, 2017 - 05:28am PT
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Just as Jim Donini said, I'm not surprised either at Habeler's ascent.
If your lucky enough to have minimal health issues, ( arthritis etc), and are already an accomplished alpinist, and in reasonable shape, you can keep climbing to an advanced age.
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