Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2017 - 08:15pm PT
|
Above the Womb in the last daylight.
|
|
golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2017 - 08:17pm PT
|
|
|
golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2017 - 08:18pm PT
|
|
|
golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2017 - 08:25pm PT
|
First trip I took to the black was in 1984. We had a pic of the Cruise from Climbing Magazine, or was it the Scenic? Driving from SLC down to the Black we realized we didnt know what the hell side of the Canyon the climb was on, let alone anything about the climb other than our friend told us it was awesome. We guessed we should start from the North. We were fortunate enough to get a topo from the ranger there. Awesome.
|
|
wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2017 - 08:38pm PT
|
On Astrodog last May, hope to do another line there in the Fall.
Earl Van Sickle; photo
|
|
bob
climber
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2017 - 10:38pm PT
|
Some crud photos of a damn good route. Cheap Hooker
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2017 - 06:04am PT
|
Dang, that Cheap Hooker looks great! Been meaning to do a route on the Hooker Buttress. It's got some proud routes.
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2017 - 03:16pm PT
|
hey there say, ... bump for neat pics... and neat google earth stuff, :)
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2017 - 04:04pm PT
|
Thanks, Neebee! On all of those Google Earth pictures, be sure to click on the picture and see the enlarged view.
|
|
BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2017 - 06:40pm PT
|
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2017 - 10:40pm PT
|
hey there say, eeyonkee, say, thanks!
:)
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2017 - 06:37am PT
|
Didn't know that you'd done Air Voyage, Dave. Wished I'd found Clean Dan's slides from when he an I did it in 1991. By the way, nice shots of Stoned Oven, Golsen. That Womb Fight pitch is almost as memorable as the Enduro pitch in its own way.
Actually Dave, I just read your account on the Even More Black Canyon Stories thread. Nice!
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2017 - 09:11am PT
|
This thread is awesome. The Black scares me. I think I'll head on back to the "Have You Ever Climbed 5.5 or Below?" thread. You boys and that place are inspiring in your own chossy, steep, scary twisted way!
Scott
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2017 - 04:42pm PT
|
Okay, last of the Google Earth screenshots. The central feature in both of these screenshots is called the Gothic Pillar. The west face, which is in the shade, has a route called Sistine Reality, which is where I took my big whipper (two of them back-to-back, actually) back in 2007. So it holds for me a special, I don’t know, fascination, I suppose. The route basically goes up the center of the west face. The second shot emphasizes the approach. You take the left branch of the “Y”. Those same three pegmatites that are so prominent on the Hooker Buttress are major features on the west face of the Gothic Pillar as well.
This is a link to the route on Mountain Project. I fell leading pitch 3. Notice the pegmatites on the topo.
//www.mountainproject.com/images/53/83/105905383_large_0f40d0.jpg
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2017 - 09:22pm PT
|
Some archival snapshots from my first trip to the Black Canyon, circa fall of 1987, after Yosemite Mountaineering School closed for the season.
Down is in ... and up is out, or something like that:
Helga was new to climbing. Shortly after guiding The Nose that spring, I had poached her from her boyfriend.
Following their introduction to climbing during a class I taught, roping them up a 5.6 on Swan Slab, she showed up solo the next weekend and never looked back, until she got to The Black:
Billy Westbay, savoring the vibe. His best pal, Ceto Kirkpatrick, packing the pipe with aromatic weed:
..........
Both our stomachs were churning, mine from a foul order of chicken McNuggets hastily procured in Grand Junction.
Helga's tummy was reeling from the exposure and a good dose of inexperience, laced with apprehension ... we never got on Checkerboard Wall:
Several days later, surrounded by the relative placidly of Indian Creek, she top roped Coyne's Crack, no falls. The Black was a different matter!
............
 Photos recently tuned up by Peter Haan.
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2017 - 09:32pm PT
|
Awesome images of Cheap Hooker bob . . . I don't think the route gets much traffic, much less photos. You are providing some excellent beta here, thanks so much!
|
|
Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver CO
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2017 - 07:03am PT
|
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2017 - 05:46pm PT
|
So, I'm headed to the Black this weekend to do the Great White Wall, a west-facing, Grade 4 moderate (5.10+, 13 pitches). You have to hike down the Long Draw to get to the start.
I've been studying the Long Draw and adjacent areas on Google Earth. I previously pointed out the obvious NE-SW structural grain of this area. At the time I wrote that, I just knew, essentially, that the major joint patterns were on this trend. Now, it's clear to me that the structural grain is much more ancient than the current drainage patterns.
Included is a series of screenshots that clearly show tightly-near-vertically-folded basement rock on this trend.
|
|
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
|
May 11, 2017 - 01:59pm PT
|
Bump for folded and metamorphosed rock
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2017 - 04:44pm PT
|
Seems to me that most routes on the wall that we are going to do are very close to being along foliation planes. So, for the most part we will be climbing along, rather than across the "bedding". Foliation really isn't bedding, but it can essentially be a metamorphosed equivalent. I've seen it myself around my thesis area in northern Baja California where clearly-traceable gravelly layers were folded along the foliation.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!