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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 7, 2017 - 05:33pm PT
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On one hand, I think we're doomed, on the other hand, I still love climbing, particularly in the Black Canyon. I have a dismal photographic collection overall, considering how long I have been climbing. I was just perusing this small collection. These are two of my favorites. They were taken a coupla' years ago by my wife Elizabeth whilst Ken Trout and I did The Cruise. I'm also a geologist, and I can't help but love these two sequential pictures of Ken and I high up on The Cruise in the Black Canyon for both climbing and the geology.
Must be some really good ones in the ST community.
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bob
climber
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Not great photos, but a great day climbing Pathfinder.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2017 - 06:45pm PT
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Cool, Bob. I did Pathfinder with George Lowe in maybe, I dunno, 2007 I'm guessing. Chossy but fun. I love these routes.
One of my old Black Canyon partners was Tom Dickey, on the first ascent of Pathfinder.
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Vic
climber
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Awesome!
A timely forum topic as the North Rim just opened today. Black Canyon season is upon us!
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Great thread!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Great stuff, Grug!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Amazing pegmatite dykes. Why are are they so prevalent and thick?
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bob
climber
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Interesting you thought pathfinder chossy. It seemed pretty good to me. I only pulled two poison ivy bushlets out of the initial pitches by hand. Chalked up really good and gave them a yank. Never got any rashes. After the descriptions of that route I thought we were doomed.
We did cheap hooker after pathfinder and I wish I had some good shots of that. Clean and fun!
All of it is great down there. Crap rock to great rock and everything in between. The Black sure is a hoot. I've climbed just as much choss in Yosemite. Edit: that truly chalky peg is pretty dang unique though. And a bit unnerving. :-). Ahhhh the fun.....
Nice work on the guide Vic. Thank you. It was awesome to use it last May.
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Vic
climber
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All of it is great down there. Crap rock to great rock and everything in between. The Black sure is a hoot. I've climbed just as much choss in Yosemite.
Nice work on the guide Vic. Thank you. It was awesome to use it last May.
My pleasure - I'm glad that folks are enjoying the book. There are so many off-the-beaten-path routes in the Black to explore, that's for sure.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2017 - 03:25pm PT
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Damn Vic, that's what I wanted to hear! Either next weekend or the one after. Just got to corral one of the usual suspects.
Bob, I did enjoy Pathfinder very much, sure glad I don't get Poison Ivy like I do Poison Oak because of the Poison Ivy pitch. The upper pitches are looser than most pitches in the Black Canyon, IMO. On the other hand, the climbing is not that hard where it's loose.
The preponderance of pegmatite dikes is more or less an act of God as far as I'm concerned. It's not uncommon at all in the "basement" of the North American craton.
My goals this year are to do Atlantis and the Black Snake -- one on the north side, one on the south. They will be new routes for me. Will probably have a warm-up weekend first; maybe the Scenic and Kachina Wings; those would be nice Saturday-Sunday routes on a get-there-late-on-Friday night kind of weekend.
This is why I want to do the Black Snake.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Grug
That looks like your kinda climb!
I want a TR!!!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Only been there once where I did journey home with two of my brothers. Talk about full on. Will go back but need to get back into some hard crack climbing. What s beautiful place.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Any aaction shots of those 75 foot whippers? 😎
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2017 - 04:36pm PT
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Okay, so not real pictures. These are screen shots from Google Earth.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 21, 2017 - 05:04pm PT
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If only it had not become so soiled (sloan'd) the phrase that comes to mind is
Whoot worthy!
Thnx for posting the long shots cool to see the sky view
In the summer of'88 I Made it to the Black only to have the 'Wennie' bail, , droped a rope down, two raps, from somewhere close to the touron zone and climbed back up.
Somewhere I do think I've got some scenic snaps.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2017 - 05:17pm PT
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Thanks, Gnome. Headed out there tomorrow with Henry Lester. I am so psyched!
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okay, whatever
climber
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Apr 21, 2017 - 05:24pm PT
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I haven't been there since the mid-1970's and did only one route, which wasn't a testpiece, but rather a long (10 pitch?) 5.9 on the typical rock of the Black Canyon... sometimes stellar, sometimes awful. It was just left of the descent gully from the south rim, as you looked at it from the river... I think it was the Russian Arete? I didn't do that climb with Earl Wiggins, but he and I were good friends back then, and did climb together a lot, though he was a lot better than I ever was. RIP, Earl. Anyway, the Black Canyon is a unique and beautiful place to climb, and I have fond memories of those days. Thanks to all who have posted, for the photos, and for stirring my memory!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2017 - 06:49pm PT
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When you go to the Black Canyon, you have to be prepared with a few options, as another party may have already "claimed" your route on the white board at the ranger station. The Russian Arete, which I have never done, is one of our contingencies.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Apr 21, 2017 - 08:12pm PT
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Top of the Stoned Oven, 1994, I forget the name of this grovelly pitch. The Womb?
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