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monolith
climber
state of being
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Apr 25, 2017 - 05:25pm PT
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Prusiks are a good idea for non-climbers, but as a climber, it is quite easy to hand over hand the cables, even with running shoes, as I had to do when my climbing shoes didn't make it into the pack. Switching prusiks at every post is very slow.
But if there is any moisture, then prusiks are good for everyone.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 25, 2017 - 05:35pm PT
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Just use klemheist Knott way faster and better for this application than a prussic ......
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Apr 25, 2017 - 08:48pm PT
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Batman the cables, much quicker, unless you have to dig them out of the snow.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Apr 26, 2017 - 02:42pm PT
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Climbers talking about this always make it sound trivial... first time I was at cables I descended after doing Snake Dike and I did think it was pretty basic holding on outside with one hand (with climbing shoes on in perfect dry conditions). But another time I came with a group of hikers and went up at sunrise when cables were cold (first and only time I went up them)... it is surprisingly challenging and steep and it would be very easy to fall and get hurt badly or die. Don't underestimate it.
Hand-over-hand is ok if (1) you trust your strength to hold out (which is a dubious proposition when the frozen steel cable is sapping heat out of your hands); and (2) you realize that your hand grip failing might mean your death. It is steep enough that if there is ANY moisture (and maybe even if there is none) it is difficult to just stand at any spot without the assistance of your hands on something stable. There are horizontal slats of wood when the cables are "up" which I made frequent use of for rest footholds on the way up. If those are not there, it significantly raises the difficulty and the fatigue that will be on your arms.
So bottom line, assume folks here are seasoned and take their advice with some grains of salt.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Apr 26, 2017 - 04:25pm PT
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Prussiks? Just clip in with a 'biner.
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DanRistow
Trad climber
Los Gatos
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Apr 28, 2017 - 11:36pm PT
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There's almost no snow now, cables should be clear, a bit of snow on the subdome. This picture is from 4/25
There is also absolutely no snow on the approach to the route or the route itself. If you want I can post back on the exact condition of the cables next Wednesday.
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