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TWGeary
Ice climber
Upland, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 5, 2017 - 07:55am PT
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I will be in Yosemite the later this month, April 20-23. Do you think it will be too early for Snake Dike?
Tim
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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There will be snow to deal with based on my weather calculations. Mostly a concern for approach and descent.
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TWGeary
Ice climber
Upland, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2017 - 09:31am PT
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I am ok with snow on the approach as long as I can get to the bolts on the wall. Everything I have read only talks about the ascent and assumes you will come down the cables. The cables will not be up for weeks. Are there bolts on the east side as well?
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Sula
Trad climber
Pennsylvania
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Cables are still there, even if not "up".
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Nanobody
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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There are no "bolts" on the descent. The cables just lie on the slabs. If it is dry and there is no snow, decent with the cables down is trivial. If there still is snow, and/or the slabs are wet, the descent will be more dangerous than the climb.
There is a TON of snow up there right now. In three weeks? Who knows?
IMHO - Snake Dike won't be in until mid-May, but I certainly could be wrong.
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TWGeary
Ice climber
Upland, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2017 - 09:53am PT
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All great info... Whats the thought on climbing snake dike and rapping down?
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Nanobody
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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To rap the route -- You would need 2 ropes, a bunch of quick-links to leave on the anchors. From what I recall there are no chains or rings on the bolted anchors. The last 2 belays are gear belays, so you would have to stop climbing after 6 pitches or leave gear behind.
IMHO - the only thing that makes Snake Dike fun, is that you get to top out on Half-Dome. If you rap, then that does not happen. By itself, Snake Dike is just a mediocre, runout slab climb with a massive approach.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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IMO the middle pitches of SD on the dike itself are very fun and unique. Ride the snake.
The slabs above the climb are west facing and dry out quickly. You should be able to see them on the webcam.
The summit including the shoulders may be covered. By afternoon at least they should be soft.
The cables may be covered. You may be able to get at them enough to set up raps but if the surface is still wet or snowy it would be very challenging.
The shoulder under the cables could be tough too if still snow covered.
So as mentioned it's the descent that could be challenging/dangerous.
Oh yeah we are looking at another 18" plus of snow on Friday so it doesn't look good.
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TWGeary
Ice climber
Upland, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2017 - 03:43pm PT
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I was under the impression that the cables came down every season? If they do leave them up are they completely intact? What I am getting at is how would I attach to cables? Not sure about rapping off the steel pipe that has been rusting out all winter. I plan on bring a dozen steel leave behind carabiners. What am I missing, not looking to be another Half Dome stat.
Tim
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Sula
Trad climber
Pennsylvania
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Apr 10, 2017 - 03:54pm PT
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I was under the impression that the cables came down every season? As Nanobody notes, they do come down, in the sense that the supports are removed and the cables are left in place lying on the rock. If the rock is bare you can still use the cables to restrain yourself as you descend, just like the tourists in summer.
If the rock is still covered with ice & snow, the cables will likely be buried in it and the footing will be bad, making for a treacherous descent.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
CA
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Apr 10, 2017 - 04:12pm PT
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I did it once in July, the cables weren't up and most were encased in ice that took some time to chisel off for rap anchors. The good news is we saw nobody heading up. If one of those slabs cuts loose you will be in for a very quick descent. Rapping the route is possible but you are only climbing ~half of the climb, topping out is the best part. It's going to be a late year for a lot of stuff.
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Sula
Trad climber
Pennsylvania
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Apr 10, 2017 - 04:37pm PT
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Here's a tale from late December that might apply:
Winter Trail Run to Half Dome Nearly Ends in Disaster
TL;DR: Experienced hiker gets into serious trouble descending snow-covered Half Dome near cables. Helicopter rescue ensues.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 10, 2017 - 05:06pm PT
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why is no one skiing the back side?
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Apr 10, 2017 - 07:14pm PT
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It is in!!!!!
Jim Zellers did the first descent on a snowboard. I nominate Torlano to go get the second.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Apr 10, 2017 - 08:42pm PT
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Climb with a snowboard strapped to your back.
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TWGeary
Ice climber
Upland, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2017 - 07:53am PT
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I had no idea that there was that much snow on the cable side. I have much more experience with ice/snow and mountaineering than I do rock climbing. I will find a different route while I am there...
Thanks again for the info!
Tim
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 11, 2017 - 08:26am PT
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Royal Arches is Niagra Falls right now so you people beware ......
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Nanobody
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Apr 11, 2017 - 07:29pm PT
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Climb Nutcracker! Its super-fun and dry.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 11, 2017 - 07:41pm PT
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It's wet right now ......
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Apr 25, 2017 - 05:14pm PT
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Came across this video and it made me think of this thread.
If someone searches this in the future this may be useful.
These guys are ascending the cables while they are down with prusik knots.
Gives a good idea of what it's like when the cables are down and there's snow at the top.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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