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Messages 1 - 51 of total 51 in this topic |
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 20, 2017 - 07:33am PT
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I'll be in the Bay Area for a wedding and thought I might sneak over to the Valley.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Mar 20, 2017 - 07:57am PT
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From my armchair in Spain, I would guess there might be a bit of wetness on the route at that time.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2017 - 08:02am PT
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I think that by May the climb will be dry. Sentinel isn't that high and should have melted off. Check your frequent flyer mikes and come on over!
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slabbo
Trad climber
colo south
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Mar 20, 2017 - 08:13am PT
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Maybe a member of the wedding party will get cold feet ?
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 20, 2017 - 08:51am PT
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You should check with le_bruce; he does it at least every couple of years, and you can swap stories of traveling in South America.
I would say yes but many find it awkward to cuddle all night on a first date. You might be an exception though...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 20, 2017 - 08:54am PT
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it is well known that Donini doesn't do unplanned bivi's anymore... so you'd be shivering by yourself in the brush... he knows his way down in the dark.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 20, 2017 - 08:55am PT
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How much you charging? :-)
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Mar 20, 2017 - 01:24pm PT
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As I recall, last time Jim did SS a coupl years ago, he was back in camp in time for a cold one before dinner. Impressive to say the least!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2017 - 01:44pm PT
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Do I see tentative nibbles from Moose and Justin? I'll lead the baggie stuff. Studly, come down and get out of the rain.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 20, 2017 - 02:09pm PT
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Hell yeah I'd climb it with you Donini. I try to do the route once a year, it's just that good. It gets better with each go. Shoot me a pm if you'd like to try to line it up?
Though you and I have never met, my aunt + uncle met you once down on General Carrera.
Only potential conditions glitch could be snow in the long, loose gulley part of the descent, which lurks in shadow there most of the day. Navigated that snow once and it wasn't so bad. The route itself ought to be in great conditions.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2017 - 03:22pm PT
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Le Bruce....I don't have your e-mail and I am told e-mailing on ST doesn't work.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 20, 2017 - 03:29pm PT
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Jim, Bryce [LeBruce] bit me up by few minutes.
If he bail please consider me as his substitute. It would be proud to climb with you for me and I am definitely up to it. try to do this root every year. May 10 can be a lot of snow in the gully and decent can be epic. but WTF?
my e-mail azelditc@apple.com
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Mar 20, 2017 - 03:34pm PT
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Married? I thought you always got married in the Tetons Jim.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2017 - 03:37pm PT
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Hell yes Norm....always in the Tetons. I'm merely attending this one.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2017 - 03:43pm PT
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Alexey....would love to climb with you. I could extend my trip. Moose, something with you too.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 20, 2017 - 03:52pm PT
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If'n my shoulder wasn't bein' bad, I'd be there in
a heartbeat, Jim. Unfortunately, no go at this point.
Have phun!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 20, 2017 - 06:09pm PT
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If you guys have a cell phone to coordinate it, consider walking out to the Glacier Point road. Not sure if you get cell service from up there but a short hike will confirm it. Not sure if Jim hates cell phones as much as radios...
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 20, 2017 - 06:45pm PT
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Hey Jim, jeez things accelerated from no takers to overflowing dance card.
Alexey! You and Donini ought to go do the Basketcase - a repeat for both, probably a walk in the park the second time...
I am very happy to run it with you Jim but also happy to give this one to Alexey, who:
a. is a modern legend
b. is +/-30% prettier
c. has a pad near Yosemite, and
b. climbs much harder than I do
Don't hesitate to reach out if you need a partner, would be a blast to climb something with you and I'd love to pick your brain about the lesser known spots south of the Coyhaique region. My wife is from Chile and we go back often, but really haven't scratched the surface of what's there.
My email: bxharles at gmail dot com.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2017 - 08:46pm PT
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Yes, with this dance card I may have to engineer a week in the Valley.
Le Bruce....you just cannot believe how beautiful Lago General Carrera is!
The Indian name for the lake is Chelenko...sounds better to me.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 20, 2017 - 08:59pm PT
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if you're going to be there a week maybe I can get on your card too...
and a backup reserve for the Steck/Salathé incase of unforeseen circumstances.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2017 - 09:06pm PT
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I would love to climb with you Ed!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 20, 2017 - 09:06pm PT
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still sorting out possibilities for IC
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2017 - 09:10pm PT
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Let me know, I have a great campsite established. Mark Chapman and Rab and Sue Carrington (England) are coming in early April and Moose a little later.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2017 - 10:02am PT
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Alexey, le bruce, Justin, Ed, Moose.....headed to the Creek for a few days. Looking forward to seeing some, or all, of you in the Valley in May.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 21, 2017 - 11:44am PT
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SS Conga Line!
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Mar 21, 2017 - 11:53am PT
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Jim,
I would love to join you, but I wouldn't fit thru the narrows, and I've probably gained a few more inches, here in Dublin. Too much Guinness!!
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 21, 2017 - 12:12pm PT
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... I wouldn't fit thru the narrows
No, problem, Steve! Go the outside way on that pitch. Only 10a (Gunks 5.8+), very exhilarating spot.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 21, 2017 - 02:54pm PT
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Hey Ed H., get in touch if ever you want to go the SS a whirl together, I'm in
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Jim Herson
climber
Emerald Hills, CA
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Mar 21, 2017 - 03:02pm PT
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Jim,
I'll probably take a few kids from the gym up the SS around then. But I'm getting a bit sensitive to their "Wow, you can still climb at your age" looks. It would great if you were to join us so I wouldn't be the old guy.
-Jim
ps. I'm worried the Sentinel Gully might still be snow choked in early May? These kids are awesome crushers but a bit green on snow travel.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 21, 2017 - 03:39pm PT
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^^^ Perfect time to teach them how to use cams for self-arrest.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Mar 21, 2017 - 03:55pm PT
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Hey Jim,
If those other guys bail let me know. I'd love the oppertunity to climb the SS with you.
Prod.
aka Guy Kenny
guy@gkennybuilders.com
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Mar 21, 2017 - 04:10pm PT
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I'm all in too.
My recommendation....we go six on a rope.
Jim leads, followed by Hartouni twenty feet later on a bight, followed by Le_Bruce and Alexy tied together with some webbing between their tie in points (This will allow for great conversation and cuddling as it's obvious The Bruce has a man-crush on his Russian hero). Then we go just 10 feet down to Jim Herson, cause he likes a tight belay and we don't need anybody freaking out up there.......then I'll go last, a hundred feet later tied in to the end of the rope. I don't mind going last, I like to run it out when I'm on toprope anyway.
Its gonna be the greatest Trip Report in ST history. Cant wait to hang out as a six-some at the belay below the narrows. I've met Ed, Bryce and Alexey and can't wait to meet the rest of you. Hit me up on Instagram or Snapchat the day before and we can go over snacks and the necessary rack.
Until then,
Scott
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Mar 21, 2017 - 04:26pm PT
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I'll hold out for when you want to do Basket Case again.
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CA Dreamin'
climber
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Mar 21, 2017 - 04:40pm PT
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I can personally attest that le_bruce is an excellent choice of a partner on the Steck-Salathe.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Mar 21, 2017 - 05:03pm PT
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Couple of Welsh lads getting in shape to join you on the Steck-Salathe Mr. Donini Sir...........
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 21, 2017 - 06:30pm PT
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My recommendation....we go six on a rope.
With all that muscle let's tie a 140l pig on the end of the rope and I'll hop in to ride the Taco Express. ;)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 21, 2017 - 07:09pm PT
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maybe we can do a Mammut ad and have a continuous string from the bottom to the top...
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john hansen
climber
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Mar 21, 2017 - 07:30pm PT
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Mighty Hiker, I think you ment 70 years for the lost arrow chimney.
Wiki says,,
South west face of Half Dome 1946
Lost Arrow Chimney 1947
Steck Salathe 1950 confirmed as June 30 by Galen Rowell's
The Vertical World Of Yosemite
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 22, 2017 - 07:53pm PT
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Guido, what happens when one of those guys fall in?????
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 22, 2017 - 11:18pm PT
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For how many days are you planning to be in Yosemite? Both 9th and 10th or one of those? Starting a new job two hours away from the park. Very likely can go out for a day or two to climb. We can make it a party wall with Jim, Alexey and Bruce all on it. By the way, I do not have any of your phone numbers. My car was stolen earlier in the month and the cell phone gone with it. So give me a call or a text so I have your numbers.
Will be great temps in the Valley! Woot!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 23, 2017 - 02:19pm PT
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Shet. Killed the thread. :(
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Mar 23, 2017 - 03:21pm PT
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V, Jim mentioned he was going to the creek for a while. He'll get back to you I'm sure.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Mar 23, 2017 - 04:37pm PT
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No, V, really, NOBODY wants you to have their phone number...
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 23, 2017 - 06:02pm PT
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The tread is alive, climbing SS by 4 is a good idea and I am up for it.
Jim if you are staying longer, I can climb with you all for the rest of the week from May10 until Sunday May 14
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2017 - 01:33pm PT
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To all who responded, I just scored a place to stay in El Portal and will be climbing in the Valley for five full days from 5/8 thru 5/12.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Apr 13, 2017 - 02:16pm PT
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Jim, you probably mean May 8-12.
This is a week days, I can take two days off- bester in the beginning of the week.
I try to sent you e-mail via ST, but if you do not get anything - sent me mail
azelditc@apple.com
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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Apr 13, 2017 - 02:56pm PT
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will be climbing in the Valley for five full days from 5/8 thru 5/12.
I think he meant he'll be climbing 5.8 through 5.12 and you better keep up!
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Apr 13, 2017 - 05:16pm PT
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Chill for the win.
I turn 48 on 5/9. What a dream that would be. I climbed that thing with Chili Dog about 20 years ago.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 15, 2017 - 03:10pm PT
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del cross
climber
May 15, 2017 - 10:38am PT
So how was it?
we ended up at Arch and have a good time.
del cross , we should do SS traditionally in June, when snow will melt in the gully
Edit: to bottom post from JayBro
Здраствуй мой брат Джей!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 15, 2017 - 05:47pm PT
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Здравствуйте!
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