Ken Wilson's MOUNTAIN Magazine #1 ***the whole enchilada !!!

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Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2017 - 06:58pm PT
From page 29, John Cleare really had and eye for the romance of the whole endeavor:


A current picture and some background on the man:

http://markgeorge.com/john-cleare/
http://www.mountaincamera.com/about_john_cleare_new_2.htm

He has been climbing mountains since his early teens and his book, “Rock Climbers in Action in Snowdonia”, published in 1965, is a cult book among climbers.

 It's been said that's the book that started it all in terms of high quality, dramatic portrayal of climbers in action.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 22, 2017 - 08:55pm PT
On a Cleare day, you can see forever...
Friend

climber
Mar 23, 2017 - 09:04am PT
Thanks Roy, super cool. One of the few missing from my collection too.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2017 - 09:20am PT
Oopsie!
I see I skipped this initially. (Page 9)
Went back and put it in ...


Up thread, Randisi had asked me when the sexy adverts were going to show up. (He deleted his post, no worries)
If Friend hadn't nudged me just now, this gem would have remained excluded! Thank you readers!
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Mar 23, 2017 - 09:20am PT
EXCELLENT Tarbuster, thank you VERY much!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2017 - 06:44pm PT
From page 09, a curious passage including a typo most readers will catch:
Jones is at present in the Fitzroy area, with Americans Yvonne Choinnard and Lito-Tejada Flores, attempting a big, and so far secret, climb.
Correspondent: Chris Jones

I'm not supertight on the history, but, is this referencing the Fun Hog expedition of 1968? Fitzroy? In a quick search I confirmed Chouinard, Lito, Jones, Tompkins and Dorworth.

That must be the secret climb to which Jones was referring.
Chris Jones, you reading this?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 23, 2017 - 06:52pm PT
Jones is at present in the Fitzroy area, with Americans Yvonne Choinnard and Lito-Tejada Flores, attempting a big, and so far secret, climb...

...I'm not supertight on the history, but, is this referencing the Fun Hog expedition of 1968?

I've heard that Yvonne Choinnard was a really hot babe. No wonder they called it the Fun Hog expedition
Chris Jones

Social climber
Glen Ellen, CA
Apr 2, 2017 - 06:54pm PT
Ken Wilson and I had been flatmates in London in the mid 1960s, and spent a lot of time together - mostly raving about this climb or that. Or this climber or that one. At the time of the FunHog trip in 1968, Ken had recently started the mold-breaking Mountain, and enlisted me as a correspondent. The then-existing English language climbing magazines were pretty stodgy; Ken was looking for on-the-spot and up to the minute, preferably spiced with some mystery or intrigue. When we set out for Patagonia our objectives were not really defined. I definitely wrote to Ken that we were headed to the FitzRoy area, and he sensed a journalistic coup - a secret climb. I loved that guy, an absolute original.

Much of the history of the 1968 FitzRoy trip is told in the recent book: "Climbing Fitz Roy 1968."
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 2, 2017 - 07:10pm PT
Chris' book is fantastic if you want a complete picture of this grand Anglo-American adventure. The Mountain magazine cliff notes can be found here...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1169885/Fitzroy-SW-Buttress-Funhog-Exp-Chris-Jones-Mt-3-May-1969
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2017 - 09:43pm PT
Thank you for your reply, Chris Jones!

And to you Steve, for linking the articles.
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