Ken Wilson's MOUNTAIN Magazine #1 ***the whole enchilada !!!


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right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2017 - 06:52am PT
For comparison, here's how we Yanks reported things in the 1969 ASCENT, presented in total:

right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2017 - 06:56am PT
Who Digs Harrison's? Equipment Suppliers, Glenn Torridon, pages 18-25


Mountain climber
Mar 20, 2017 - 08:40am PT
Seeing my name published in Mountain was "My Cover of Rolling Stone " moment .

Ice climber
Mar 20, 2017 - 09:08am PT
Hey Roy!
Fun post! I appreciate the credits. :-) Kind of hard to look at, knowing what historical gems those magazines are.......but still glad they went to a good home, and that I have one less box of stuff to think about! :-)
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Mar 20, 2017 - 09:12am PT
Fantastic post. Thank you.

right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2017 - 09:42am PT
No sexy adverts in Mountain #1. That comes later!

 Tomorrow I will post: Equipment Notes, New Books, pages 26-30
 Wednesday I will post the final pages: remaining advertisements, pages 31-36, plus both sides of the back cover.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Mar 20, 2017 - 10:42am PT
Wilson sure had a knack for selecting photos that really had the essence of climbing for Mountain's cover - The spirit of adventure in even the smallest nooks and crannies.

right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2017 - 11:40am PT
Ken Wilson certainly purveyed quality at every turn.

I find Walter Poucher's b&w photographs of Liathach in the Glenn Torridan to be nothing less than captivating, whenever I look at them.
(See the previous pages, 24 & 25)

Same with Walter's prose, on page 23:
"Following the road from Kinlochewe one cannot fail to be impressed by the first view of Beinn Eighe, which towers into the sky on the right. Even without snow it is enlivened by the glint of light on its vast carpet of white quartzite scree. Beside the road the Allt Ghairbhe chatters merrily as it threads the barren moorland. The glen swings round to the right and the glittering blue of Loch Clair comes into view, backed by Sgurr Dubh."
Alan Rubin

Mar 20, 2017 - 01:04pm PT
DM88T--I have a copy of that Mountain Craft buried some place in my 'study'. I'll try to dig it out, though scanning is well above my 'tech pay grade'--maybe I can get a young-un to help me.

Steve G.--It was 3 or 4 years after Mountain started that Climbing first appeared (a Harvey T. Carter production, if I remember correctly)--which even then did a much better job than it's predecessor, Summit, at covering US climbing (though very Colorado-centric, at least at first), though it definitely improved once Mike Kennedy took over. Even then, however, Mountain still remained the 'magazine of record'--even for the US, for quite a while longer.

Tarbuster--Thanks a lot for scanning this--it brings back so many memories. In many ways Mountain was the chronicle of my youthful climbing dreams and really created much of the context for the way I have viewed this 'passion' from then on.
little Z

Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
Mar 20, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
interesting to see the list of mountaineering equipment suppliers. Have most of those shops gone out of business? A similar list of USA suppliers from those times would certainly contain the names of shops that have long since closed. Is Ellis Brigham the biggest current survivor on that list? I remember seeing their shops in a few places when I was in the UK in 1977.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
Mar 20, 2017 - 03:56pm PT

Scrappy, but fun, nonetheless!

The cover for Issue # 1 is wonderful. Tremadog? What route?

Trad climber
Mar 20, 2017 - 04:02pm PT
Several on that list still exist: Climbers Shop in Ambleside, Blacks, Ellis Brigham, Joe Brown, I think Tiso too.

Interesting to see mention of Terry Tullis's shop in Groombridge (home of Harrison's, see the article about 30ft sandstone. Also where I am in bed right now!). The shop no longer exists but son Chris until recently ran Evolution bouldering wall a mile or so outside the village.

right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2017 - 04:34pm PT
Mountain #1 cover photo is of Mangoletsi, Craig Pant Ifan, Tremadoc, by John Hartley.

right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2017 - 06:35am PT
Equipment Notes, New Books, pages 26-30


 Tomorrow I will post the remaining scans of Mountain #1, Pages 31-36, plus both sides of the back cover.

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Mar 21, 2017 - 08:22am PT
"often only climbed with liberal assistance from the rope".

Classic Brit understatement.

Thanks for doing this Roy. So much good stuff in there. Love the picture of the Walker Spur.
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Mar 22, 2017 - 05:02am PT
Ahh, Mountain #1...! It's on my shelf, but nice to re-read!

right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2017 - 07:35am PT
Never got a chance to dig Harrison's, but I DO dig these passages from Ian McNaught Davis !

We all know crags like this. But in 1968 or 1969, what crag in the US was so heavily urbanized: Indian Rock, Berkeley? Perhaps the Carriage Road at the Gunks? Camp 4?

I think none were quite so populated at the time. This illustrates quite well how Britain, to us in the US, represents the birthplace of cragging as a pastime. This reads more to me like a description of our circumstances only after the introduction of sport climbing and indoor climbing gyms.

Its critics, and those infrequent visitors from the gritstone-littered northern moors, see it as an overcrowded jungle where no climber leads a route until he has perfected it by numerous tight rope ascents and can play it as a concert pianist fingers a well-known piece; where even Crew and Whillans have been seen off by aging second-rate locals; where the two greatest products of the crag, Boysen and Bonington, have returned after Alpine epics to flounder on a rope so tight that when plucked it really admits an unfailing G sharp.
Harrison's is a microcosm of human strengths and weaknesses, more so than any other crag in Britain. Leading is relatively rare, the difficulty of any climb is purely technical and boldness plays little part. What a climber is prepared to undertake is limited only by his desire not to appear completely foolish or incompetent. The vein, the bold, the flamboyant, the timid, all compete for their place. Crowded hustle is alien to the high mountains, and to try to equate Harrison's with them is a mistake. Harrison's is unique; its fascinations are hidden, not behind mists or long approach marches, but behind its reputation, its difficulty, and above all behind people. It is not a replacement for Wales, which is said to ruin your technique for Harrison's climbing, nor even for gritstone. It stands alone.

 Text excerpt from pages 20 and 21, Who Digs Harrison's? - Ian McNaught Davis.
Alan Rubin

Mar 22, 2017 - 10:23am PT
That article was a major inspiration for me to want to 'check out' Harrison's when I was in England the summer after that issue came out. We were getting a lift from a friend's father, who was living in Brighton along the coast, into London to catch a train to Chamonix. Harrison's was close to the road we were taking, so I lobbied for us to stop en route. It was mid-week and we had about a 1/2 hour at Harrison's, so just dropped a top-rope over a likely-looking piece of rock and tried to get up it---with no success. We then got the signal to get going. I finally had a chance for a 'proper' visit a few years ago (again mid-week)---nice place with challenging climbing, but as a veteran of Quincy Quarries I have a soft spot for small, scruffy little crags!!!! Over the following years, similar articles in Mountain inspired me to visit numerous places and to have many adventures.

Trad climber
Mar 22, 2017 - 10:26am PT
TFPU great thread.

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 22, 2017 - 10:32am PT
Tremadoc - it doesn't count if you climbed there in the dry. Any punter can do that! I'll be
there in a couple of months but I don't think I'll be enjoying Joe's company this time and I
damn well know I won't be sending in the wet! :-)
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