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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 18, 2017 - 12:03am PT
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Mountain, the first issue. January 1969. 36 pages.
A cover to cover scan presented here!
Magazine is from the Jack Roberts collection, courtesy of Pam Roberts.
Ken Wilson, founder of the magazine, was the editor of Mountain from 1969 to 1978.
Read his tribute by Ed Douglas in Alpinist:
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web16b/newswire-remembering-ken-wilson-by-ed-douglas
"At that point, in the mid 1970s, Ken was at the height of his powers, editing Mountain magazine, a publication that captured the Zeitgeist of world mountaineering as nothing had done before."
Great quote by and about Ken Wilson, from an article in The Telegraph:
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/obituaries/2016/06/20/ken-wilson-mountaineering-publisher--obituary/
On real cliffs with real dangers, he wrote, one has to rapidly master the skill and judgment required to avoid accidents. One must find the route, assess the problems, make the moves while also placing reliable protection. In addition, the powerful aura and complexity of cliffs has to be faced, together with descent problems, benightment and bad weather. To older climbers, he was the guardian of the soul of mountaineering.
Ken Wilson obit at Rock & Ice:
http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/obit-ken-wilson-1941-2016
 I will be posting up scans of the entire issue in five blocks, over the next five days, so stay tuned!
Cheers all,
Roy McClenahan
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2017 - 12:03am PT
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Cover photo of Mangoletsi, Craig Pant Ifan, Tremadoc, by John Hartley
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2017 - 12:20am PT
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Table of Contents & Information, pages 3-9
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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Mar 18, 2017 - 01:44am PT
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This could be really good.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 18, 2017 - 04:03am PT
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That issue sat in a glass-covered frame in The North Face Factory Outlet behind the counter for five years until I left, bequeathing it to the place.
Wonder who snagged it?
It had been given me by the late Randy Hamm, one of the Camp 4 Chapter of The Flames. Bringin' back some memories here, Tarbuster.
Tremadoc. Welsh climbing. Randy actually got to do some climbs in Wales, too, I believe.
Page 6 is notable for the report by BooDawg of the death on El Cap of Jim Madsen. And Royal's solo of the Muir Wall.
Roy, can I have two rolled tacos to go? Thanks for posting this.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 18, 2017 - 04:10am PT
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I remember Rick Sylvester speaking of Jose Fonrouge in tones of familiarity but also with great respect.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Mar 18, 2017 - 09:27am PT
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"North west face direct of the Apron" I wonder what climb that is referring to in the Valley?
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Mar 18, 2017 - 09:50am PT
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Thanks Roy and Pam...Nice find...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 18, 2017 - 10:05am PT
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Great stuff. Keep it coming.
In addition to forever changing the climbing writing landscape, Ken was a great guy with a huge heart. And a fine climber.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 18, 2017 - 01:15pm PT
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Nice choice to post, Roy.
The first issue is the only one missing from my collection of Mountain mags.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Mar 18, 2017 - 03:05pm PT
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Great Job, no copyright left unvoliated. . .I've always said, when you can't come up with original content, feel free to use someone else's. . .df
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2017 - 03:27pm PT
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I know, right?
I'm just so dragging from lack of personal content these days. True story!
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Mar 18, 2017 - 07:57pm PT
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You've got a book in you Roy, this I know. . .df
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2017 - 06:38am PT
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British Climbing Since the War, pages 10-17
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2017 - 07:39am PT
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^^^Pretty tight font on these pages.
However, it's doable. Sampling the pages, I selected some highlights:
Page 10
Wales
1951
Cemetery Gates, Dinas Cromlech, Brown and Whillans
Whillans, perhaps Britain's most dedicated and accomplished mountaineer makes his first appearance on a new route in Wales.
Wales
1952
CENOTAPH CORNER, DINAS CROMLECH, BROWN AND BELSHAW
Perhaps the most important Welsh climb of the 50s in its influence and stature in the climbing world.
Page 11
Alps
(Other Nationalities)
1947
Eiger, North Wall, Terray and Lachenal 2nd Ascent
1951
GRAND CAPUCIN, E FACE, BONATTI AND GHIGO
The first major artificial route in the Mt. Blanc massif and the first important new route in the Western Alps by Bonatti, the dominant figure in world climbing.
1952
Eiger, North Wall
Early ascent by three teams including Buhl, Rebuffat, and Magnone narrowly escaped disaster when caught in a storm.
Page 12
Wales
1953
The Grooves, Cym Las, Brown and party
Perhaps Brown's hardest climb in the early 50s.
The end of three years of unprecedented development.
Wales
1955
Erosion Groove Direct, Carreg Wastad, Whillans and Brown
An extremely difficult and bold lead, typifying Whillans routes everywhere.
Page 13
Alps
(British)
1954
PETIT DRU, W FACE, BROWN AND WHILLANS THIRD ASCENT, TWO DAYS
Perhaps the most important British achievement of the decade in the Alps.
All Other Ranges
(Other Nationalities)
1953
HIMALAYAS & KARAKORAM
NANGA PARBAT
Climbed by Austro/German expedition. Summit reached by H. Buhl, climbing solo, who bivouaced on the descent.
Alps
(Other Nationalities)
1955
PETIT DRU, SW. PILLAR, W BONATTI, FIRST ASCENT
SOLO. FIVE DAYS. PROBABLY THE MOST IMPORTANT SINGLE CLIMBING FEAT EVER ACCOMPLISHED.
1956
LES DROITES, N. FACE, CORNUAU AND DAVAILLE, 5 DAYS
An exceptionally difficult route, one of the hardest in the Alps.
Page 16
Lake District
1958
The Trilogy, Raven Crag, G. West, Hadfield and Hughes
A big artificial route by a well-known Derbyshire expert. Opened the debate on the ethics of pegs which had raged fiercely in the Lake District since then.
Scotland
1958
WINTER
CARNIVORE, CREAG A BHANCAR, BUCHAILLE ETIVE, CUNNINGHAM AND NOON
A line of great ingenuity and severity on an uncompromising crag.
Snatched from the jaws of Whillans.
Scotland
1959
WINTER
Point Five Gully, Tower Face, Ben Nevis, Clough, Alexander, Pipes and Shaw
The second of the great Nevis winter gullies. The route was sieged for five days and was thus highly controversial. Second ascent by Smith and Marshall in nine hours.
Page 17
All other ranges
(Other Nationalities)
1957
Himalayas & Karakoram
Chogolisa
Attempt ends when Herman Buhl dies when a cornice breaks.
Alps
(Other Nationalities)
1957
EIGER, NORTH WALL
Big international rescue organized to extricate two Italians, immobile on the wall after a series of mishaps. Alfred Hellepart lowered 1000 feet down the face on a wire, rescued Corti. Corti later blamed for the whole affair including the disappearance of two Germans on the face at the same time. The remains of the Germans were discovered several years later on the easy descent route, thereby clearing Corti.
1958
CIMA GRANDE N. FACE DIRECT, BRANDLER, HASSE, LEHNE, LOW.
1st ASCENT
Alps
(British)
1959
GRANDES JORASSES, WALKER SPUR,R. SMITH AND G. CLARK
FIRST BRITISH ASCENT
Climbed one day later by MacInnes, Streetly, L. Brown and Whillans.
(Photobucket limits me to a maximum width or height of 1024 pixels. These pages were sized at 1000 wide and each of the small font pages is halved to achieve full width on the screen)
.........................................................
Tomorrow I will post up pages 18-25
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DM88T
climber
Dave Tully SanDimas,California
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Mar 19, 2017 - 08:26am PT
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Thanks Roy and Pam.
Does any one have a scan of the last issue of Mountain Craft - before Ken Wilson renamed it Mountain?
I gave mine away 23 years age, but wish I hadn't.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 19, 2017 - 12:44pm PT
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Interesting to read in this issue about Jim Madsen's accident on El Cap
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 19, 2017 - 06:19pm PT
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It was always a bit strange to read about what was going on in American climbing on the pages of Mountain but until Kennedy took over the editor position at Climbing magazine that was kind of how it went.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Mar 20, 2017 - 01:02am PT
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hey there say, tarbuster! great share, here, :)
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