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bobinc
Trad climber
Portland, Or
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Mar 15, 2017 - 01:48pm PT
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Another one of the indestructible generation gone. Sigh.
Growing up in the Pacific NW in the 1970s, I could only dream about the granite slabs and cracks that were found throughout Basic and Advanced Rockcraft. Yes- some of the techniques may have already seemed outdated only a few years later, but the writing is still good. I always wondered if Royal wrote the vignette at the end of AR. He must have; it makes sense given his style and overall perspective.
I am so glad I finally met him in my home town of Hood River about 10 years ago. He was there to visit his daughter and his slides and talk are a lifetime memory. I had him sign my first edition AR; that produced a chuckle!
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VDub
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Mar 15, 2017 - 02:22pm PT
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Man, this is hard news. Condolences to RRs family. He was one of the shining stars - one of the great movers and shakers of Yosemite during the Golden Age of American climbing and well beyond, love him or hate him. My experience and understanding of Yosemite was shaped in major part due to his routes, efforts, and ethics. Another great one makes his final ascent... He will be missed!
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Jim Pettigrew
Social climber
Crowley Lake, CA
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Mar 15, 2017 - 02:34pm PT
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Truly a sad, sad day!
Hopefully his family is well.
A great man with incredible vision.
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Mary Moser
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Mar 15, 2017 - 03:27pm PT
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I still cannot believe it! He seemed so young to me. RIP, Royal. You will be missed and I will never forget your legendary accomplishments.
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TomKimbrough
Social climber
Salt Lake City
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Mar 15, 2017 - 03:30pm PT
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Well, I have out lived both Pratt and now, Robbins.
Do I get a few stars for that?
I could never out climb them.
I didn't much like Robbins.
We played some chess and I beat him once.
His competiveness over the board was hard to take.
But.... He and his values shaped my climbing life.
And they do to this day.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Mar 15, 2017 - 03:34pm PT
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Yosemite Valley, 1974 (?) Mtn. Room Lodge Restaurant (The Four Seasons?), my first encounter with "The Man."
When asked our name, to be put on the waiting list at any busy restaurant, our habit was to use the name of a famous climber but, only someone we had utmost respect for. It might be Walter Bonatti, Herman Buhl, William Feuerer, Tom Frost or Royal Robbins. On this occasion it was the name Royal Robbins, our idol, the man who topped our list titled "Climbers Who've Earned Utmost Respect."
On this summer's eve it was Alan and Spencer Lennard, Matt Cox, myself and Randy Vogel.
Our motley crew strolled up to the Hostess's podium (16-18 yrs. old, hands still chalk covered, aluminum oxide soiled painters pants, tousled hair, etc.)and asked for a table. She smiled and asked "the wait is 30 minutes, may I put you on the waiting list?"
Without batting an eye Al replied "Royal Robbins party of 5."
Her smile turned analytical and critical as she actually registered what we looked like. In a voice dripping with disdain and disgust she said "you can't be he, Royal Robbins is sitting right over there" and pointed over our heads.
In unison we turned 180 degrees in the direction she pointed.
There, at the closest table to us sat Mr. Royal Robbins himself and his entourage.
They had overheard the whole exchange and everyone at the table was staring at us.
Royal had a look of wry amusement while Chris Vandiver had a look that, if looks could kill, we had all died and gone to hell a million years ago.
We spun on our heals back towards the Hostess in panicked and stunned embarrassment and Al stammered out "m-m-make that Warren Harding" and the 5 of us sprinted for the door.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 15, 2017 - 03:40pm PT
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Great comments John. I am sure those were exciting times to see all the unclimbed rock the Black Hills had to offer. It seemed like he would step up to the plate at many classic areas and put up some of the most exciting climbs around.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 15, 2017 - 04:28pm PT
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Here are some of Royal's notable ascents and attempts.
This was my attempt at a chronological list a couple of years ago,
using the guidebook, Pat Ament's biography "Spirit of the Age", Royal's autobiography, and Joe Fitschen's autobiography.
Yosemite Climbs
 Higher Cathedral Spire, Royal Robbins, Roy Gorin, FA of Robbins Variation on p2, 5/1952
Lost Arrow Spire, Royal Robbins, Don Wilson, Barbara Lilley, 3A or 4A, 10/1952
Yosemite Point Buttress, Royal Robbins, Jerry Gallwas, 2A, 5/1953
Steck-Salathe', Royal Robbins, Jerry Gallwas, Don Wilson, 2A, 2 days, 6/1953
Half Dome - Regular Northwest Face, Royal Robbins, Don Wilson, Jerry Gallwas, Warren Harding, (attempt), 6/1955
Steck-Salathe', Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick, 3A, 1.4 days, 8/12/1956
Liberty Cap - South Face, Mark Powell, Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, FA, 9/1956
Half Dome - Regular Northwest Face, Royal Robbins, Jerry Gallwas, Mike Sherrick, FA, 5 days, 7/1957
Lost Arrow Chimney, Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, 4A, 2 days, 9/1957
Middle Cathedral Rock - North Face, Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, 2A, 2 days, 8/1959
Steck-Salathe', Royal Robbins, Pete Rogowsky, Lin Ephraim, 8A, 9/7/1959
Elephant Rock - Worst Error, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, 3A, 9/1959
The Crack of Dawn, Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, Tom Frost, FA, 9/1959
Lower Cathedral Rock - North Face, Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, Joe Fitschen, FA, 3 days, 6/4/1960
Steck-Salathe', Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, 12?A, 10 hours, 6/1960
Lost Arrow Spire, Royal Robbins, Janie Taylor, 6/1960
Arrowhead Arete, Royal Robbins, Janie Taylor, 6/1960
Lower Cathedral Spire, Royal Robbins, Janie Taylor, 6/1960
Higher Cathedral Spire, Royal Robbins, Janie Taylor, 6/1960
Higher Cathedral Spire - NW Face, Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, attempt 1 (needed larger pitons), 6/14/1960
Rixon's Pinnacle - East Chimney, Royal Robbins, Dave Rearick, FFA, 6/16/1960
Half Dome - Regular Northwest Face, Royal Robbins, Dave Rearick, 3A, 2 days, 6/21?/1960
Arches Direct, Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, FA, 3 days, 6/26/1960
Nevada Fall - Left Side, Royal Robbins, Lin Ephraim, 7/1960
Bridalveil East, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Joe Fitschen, 6 hours, 8/1960
Nose, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Chuck Pratt, Joe Fitschen, 2A, 7 days, 9/13/1960
Yosemite Point Buttress, Royal Robbins, Janie Taylor, 6 hours, 9/1960
Slab Happy Pinnacle - Center Original, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Harry Daley, FA, 5/1961
The Dihardral, Tom Frost, Royal Robbins, FA, 5/1961
Higher Cathedral Spire - NW Face, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, attempt 2 (forgot bolt kit), 5/15?/1961
Higher Cathedral Spire - NW Face, Royal Robbins, Steve Roper, attempt 3 (fixed 2 pitches), 5/22?/1961
Higher Cathedral Spire - NW Face, Tom Frost, Royal Robbins, FA, 2 days, 6/8/1961
Half Dome - North Ridge, Chuck Wilts, Royal Robbins, 6/24/1961
Sentinel - West Face, Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, 2A, 2 days, 7/14/1961
Steck-Salathe', Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, 16A, speed ascent, simulclimbing, 3 hours 14 minutes, 9/1961
Steck-Salathe', Royal Robbins, solo, 17A, belayed on 3 pitches, 9/1961
Salathe' Wall, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Chuck Pratt, FA, 5+6 days, 9/24/1961
Bridalveil East - Aqua var., Royal Robbins, Rich Calderwood, FA, 1961
Washington Column Direct, Royal Robbins, Liz Burkner, 4/1962
Little John - Right, Jack Turner, Royal Robbins, FA, 4/1962
Slab Happy Pinnacle - Left, Royal Robbins, Jack Turner, FA, 5/1962
Sentinel Rock - Direct North Face, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, FA, 3 days, 5/7/1962
Salathe' Wall, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, TM Herbert, attempted 2A, rain/sickness, 9/1962
Salathe' Wall, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, 2A, 5 days, 10/13/1962
Washington Column - East Face, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, 2A, 10/1962
Leaning Tower - West Face, Royal Robbins, solo, 2A, 4 days, 5/1963
Middle Cathedral - Direct North Buttress, Royal Robbins, Layton Kor, 5/1963
Rixon's Pinnacle - Far West, Royal Robbins, Dick McCracken, 6/1963
Half Dome - Direct Northwest Face, Royal Robbins, Dick McCracken, FA, 4 days, 6/13/1963
Misty Wall, Dick McCracken, Royal Robbins, FA, 3 days, 6/23/1963
Bridalveil Falls - East Buttress, Royal Robbins, TM Herbert, 9/1963
North America Wall, Royal Robbins, Glen Denny, recon 1 (600'), 10/1963
Goodrich Pinnacle - Right Side, Royal Robbins, Liz Robbins, TM Herbert, 5/1964
North America Wall, Royal Robbins, Glen Denny, Tom Frost, recon 2 (1200'), 5/1964
El Capitan - West Buttress, Royal Robbins, Bob Kamps, attempt, 5/1964
El Capitan - West Buttress, Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, 2A, 6/1964
Dihedral Wall, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, 2A, new hauling system, 6/1964
North America Wall, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Yvon Chouinard, Chuck Pratt, FA, 10 days, 11/1964
The Slack - Left Side, Chuck Pratt, Royal Robbins, FA, 5/1965
Eat at Degnan's, Royal Robbins, FA, 1965
Steck-Salathe', Royal Robbins, solo, 34?A, 3 hours 35 minutes, 9/9/1966
Pulpit Rock - Notch Route, Royal Robbins, FFA, 1966
Reed's Pinnacle - Direct, Royal Robbins, Gordon Webster, Terry Burnell, FA(p1-p3), 10/1966
Boulderfield Gorge, Royal Robbins, Liz Robbins, Mike Dent, Victor Cowley, FA, 10/1966
Nutcracker - left finish, Royal Robbins, Liz Robbins, FA, 5/1967
Nutcracker - direct finish, Yvon Chouinard, Royal Robbins, FA, 5/1967
El Capitan - West Face, TM Herbert, Royal Robbins, FA, 4 days, 6/7/1967
Half Dome - Regular Northwest Face, Royal Robbins, Liz Robbins, 2.5 days, 6/1967
Nose, Royal Robbins, Liz Robbins, attempt (600', needed more water), 6/1967
Crack of Doom, Royal Robbins, Dave Rearick, Pat Ament, 10/1967
Nutcracker, Royal Robbins, Liz Robbins, Dave Rearick, Steve Roper, Yvon Chouinard, Pat Ament, Fritz Wiessner, 10/1967
Vendetta, Royal Robbins, Galen Rowell, FFA, 1968
The Remnant - Left Side, Royal Robbins, Loyd Price, FFA, 1968
Cookie - Left, Royal Robbins, Loyd Price, FA, 2/1968
Cookie - Right, Royal Robbins, Loyd Price, FA, 2/1968
Meat Grinder, Royal Robbins, TM Herbert, FA, 3/1968
Muir Wall, Royal Robbins, solo, 2A, 9.5 days, 4/1968
Mt. Watkins - South Face, Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, 3 days, 6/1968
Steck-Salathe', Edwin Ward-Drummond, Royal Robbins, 42?A, 9/3/1968
Tis-sa-ack, Royal Robbins, Dennis Hennek, Chuck Pratt, attempt, 10/1968
The Prow, Royal Robbins, Glen Denny, FA, 6/1969
Tis-sa-ack, Royal Robbins, Don Peterson, FA, 8 days, 10/7/1969
Steck-Salathe', Doug Scott, Tony Willmott, Royal Robbins, 46?A, 4/8/1970
Vain Hope, Royal Robbins, Kim Schmitz, Jim Bridwell, FA, 5/1970
In Cold Blood, Royal Robbins, FA, 2 days, 5/27/1970
Arcturus, Royal Robbins, Dick Dorworth, FA, 4 days, 7/1970
In Cold Blood, Royal Robbins, Egon Marte, Johanna Marte, 2A, 10/18/1970
Wall of Early Morning Light, Royal Robbins, Don Lauria, 2A, 6 days, 2/4/1971
later climbs, including solos, like:
attempt at FA of Tangerine Trip, solo
solo of DNB in Tretorn sneakers
non-Yosemite Climbs
King's Canyon, John Mendenhall, Darrell Towler, 7/1951
first trip to Tahquitz Rock, Don Wilson, Frank Hoover, John Mendenhall, 7/1951
Sahara Terror (Tahquitz Rock), John Mendenhall, 9/1951
Dave's Deviation - extension to top (Tahquitz), Tom Frost, Royal Robbins, FA, 5/1960
Many more could be added, like:
solo of Mt. Edith Cavell "Cutting Canadian Capers" article in Summit
FAs in the Alps - American Direct on the Dru
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Mar 15, 2017 - 04:49pm PT
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One of my American partners lived with a kayaker. The kayaker was amazed to find out that Robbins and Chouinard were climbers!
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Mar 15, 2017 - 04:49pm PT
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Royal was a pioneer and now a legend.
Many people don't know that when he freed the Open Book at Tahquitz, arguably the first 5.9 in America, he was only 17.
Many years ago I teamed up with Scott Cosgrove to try and free climb one of Royal's big wall routes: The Northwest Face of Higher Cathedral Spire in Yosemite, which Royal climbed in 1961 with Tom Frost, and rated 5.8, A4.
At the fourth pitch it was my lead and I looked up at a flaring bomb-bay chimney. I took a look at the Royal Robbins topo. It read: "Chimney of Horrors" with the rating "5.8", then A4.
40 feet above the belay, with no pro, the rope dangled ten feet out from the wall. I remember feeling that I would have rated it 10a, and chimney climbing is my forte.
Higher up the pitch the chimney narrowed to a wide crack, wider than anything Royal would have had at the time that would fit in the crack.
I noticed a barely perceptible pin scar in a hairline crack just next to the wide crack. It dawned on me that Royal must have pounded a marginal knifeblade pin and tied it off, risking a hundred foot fall if it popped when he stood on it. Nerves of steel. Me, I just plugged in a #5 Camalot and kept going.
RIP Royal Robbins, you were an inspiration to generations of climbers.
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David Trujillo
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 15, 2017 - 04:56pm PT
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Aww, sorry to hear about Royal's passing. RIP Mr. Robbins.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Mar 15, 2017 - 04:59pm PT
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Holy sh#t Clint! That is some list of achievements for 20 years of climbing. The man was driven.
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Jim Herrington
Mountain climber
New York, NY
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Mar 15, 2017 - 05:36pm PT
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RIP Royal.
Photo © Jim Herrington
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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Mar 15, 2017 - 08:25pm PT
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I always had a psychic connection to Robbins...Not that he was a hero in any sense but that my grand father , who also lived in Modesto could have passed as Royals older brother...My grand father could do a hand stand on top of a framed 2x4 wall but the comparisons ended there...Sounds peculiar but i always felt Robbins was related.. In 73 my older brother and i drove from our grand parents house off Paradise to Robbins shop which to 2 young backpacker dorks was like walking into a shrine..LOL...
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Mar 15, 2017 - 09:09pm PT
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RIP Royal. A true big wall of a man.
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drF
Trad climber
usa
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Mar 15, 2017 - 09:13pm PT
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Clint...thanks for the 'list of routes'.
Legendary body of work by RR.....rip
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Mar 15, 2017 - 09:13pm PT
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Chippychopperone
Social climber
SLC, UT
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Mar 15, 2017 - 09:17pm PT
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Thank you Royal.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Mar 15, 2017 - 09:51pm PT
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First Harding and now Robbins. End of an era indeed.
There are no words.
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Chris Jones
Social climber
Glen Ellen, CA
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Mar 15, 2017 - 09:52pm PT
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Royal Robbins had a profound influence on climbing worldwide. As British climbers in the mid-60s based in Chamonix, we knew almost nothing about Yosemite. But we did know that Robbins and Gary Hemming had made a direct start to the fabled West Face of the Dru. And now in 1965 he and John Harlin were working on the even more audacious “direct.” Europeans were not yet at this conceptual level.
During a typical period of bad weather a bunch of us were hanging out at the Vagabond Club in nearby Leysin, Switzerland, enjoying some good food and a few beers. One evening Royal offered to show slides of the recently completed North America Wall. I can still remember the scene, and the absolute silence that followed the first astonishing, almost otherworldly pictures. We had never seen or imagined anything like what unfolded before us; were stunned by the audacity, the steepness, and mastery of it all. I have never forgotten the impression Royal made that day.
An astonishing life. An inspiration to generations. Farewell - you transformed our lives by your skill and passion.
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