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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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I had to give up some quiet time in the evening during the week to train. Between work, kids, sleep, etc., there just isn't much time in a day. During the week I make a point to do a workout everyday for one hour. Crossfit twice a week, yoga twice a week and the climbing gym once or twice a week. Weekends are to use the physical benefits of training! I'm in the thick of child rearing and working so my climbing goals these days are more weekend warrior alpine type stuff so my current training works for that. If I was grade chasing I'd need to do something different but I'm going to have to wait until the kids are little older before I resume crushing!!
The other thing I pretty much cut out is alcohol. I immediately lost the little bit of tubbiness I had been gaining, sleep better and generally feel faster and stronger.
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John Duffield
Mountain climber
New York
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Yes. The training costs and costs, but the benefits are well worth it. At my age - 68 - , I train or there is no game. Go out and I'm gonna get hurt for sure.
I started running after I turned 60. I suck as a runner. My times are all over the place.
https://www.athlinks.com/athletes/128327301
But I went skiing for a few days out West last month, took some horrendous falls and wasn't injured. Legs are solid. How much would I give up for that? nearly everything.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Just ran three miles off the couch. Nothing hurts. Yet.
Says I burned 470 Calories. How many beers can I have tonight?
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
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For three miles????
Says I burned 470 Calories
Your tracker is subscribing to Alternative Facts! ;)
Unless you're fast. And somehow "Fast" and "PTPP" doesn't compute.
Susan
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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I've been trying in vain to quit my habit of two Foster's oil cans every day (essentially 4 beers). Hell, I remember writing about it in my 2011 Road to Lucille thread. So, I guess my answer is nothing. I've just always counted on my love for climbing to see me through.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Right on eeyonkee....let the love of climbing see you thru.
Got back from Patagonia yesterday, heading to Indian Creek tomorrow. I'll get my camper van established in one of the more private campsites I know and then commute back and forth in my Subaru until mid-May when my attention will turn to the Black Canyon.
Let the training begin!
Ed, if you come to the Creek this Spring let me know.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2017 - 09:55pm PT
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Ed, if you come to the Creek this Spring let me know.
I'll let you know, not sure now what exactly the plans are (actually I do, no plans)... but there's always spontaneity to fall back on!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Climbing is a lifestyle,
Climbing hard is, otherwise it can be a hobble.
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Training tips: if you train in a gym, you may be sending twelves but you might be utilizing more strength than technique. Eventually strength and endurance will hit a glass (rock) ceiling. Even if you climb 12s, try sending 5.9 twenty times in a row without resting. Eventually, when you get really tired, the laws of physics will force you to perfect your beta and route reading skills. Mastering a grade is alot more than just sending it. Perfect your body position and learn to move efficiently. Many of my students ask "why do I always fall at the sixth clip on that route? The answer is: although you didnt fall on the first five clips, you blew the style and muscled through. By the sixth clip you are pumped and out of gas because you thugged your way up the first five clips. Dont focus on the crux at clip 6. Focus on getting there efficiently and rested (on route). Then the crux is doable. Maybe thug that part. Ultimately, physical strength and endurance have limits. The proper training must include technical style training as much as physical training. When I train with National Champions, we go to the boulder cave and send all the zeros, then ones then twos and soforth. Include downclimb on route for maximum benefit. Go up to V5. Then cool down by doing the fours, threes twos and such till you get back to zero. When your body gets tired, technique must be optimized to continue. If you cant hack that, reduce the grade. I once sent over 270 laps of 5.7 without resting in three hours. This required development of like six different ways to fire it so that muscle groups take turns getting beat. Example: three laps straight up lizzard style, two laps cobra style (double dynos) two laps snail right (Frenchy style right palm down), two laps snail left (frenchy left palm down) one lap pharoh right (left backstep all the way) one lap Pharoh left (right backstep all the way) then back to lizzard (cross climb speed style) occasionally switch to ultra static ooze then do some dyno laps. All on the same route. This allows various muscle groups the chance to recover, as each style depends on particular muscles for various styles. This may seem silly, redundant or obsessive. But the ultimate technique experience starts around lap 100 when physical strength runs out. Then the trickery begins.
Although a 5.9 may be easy for you, if you PERCECT the art of climbing it, you are developing muscle engrams that will work for ANY grade. If you train on projects, you learn to fall, not send. And you get burnt and cannot get enough miles in to really master the movement. As a nearly 50 year old, Im projecting thirteens. Started climbing rocks at 30yo. Was a tree service for 10years before that. When you run a chainsaw while roped for eight hours straight, you either learn to be efficient or you get hurt. Furthermore, if you perfect your technique on easy routes, you will avoid injuries that result from thuggery. No rotator cuff or tendon problems. I used to train forty hours a week. Mexican youth national champion and USAC national champions taught me this technique. Over the years I developed twelve distinct archetypes of climbing movement. Contact me here if you want lessons or coaching. Ive taught over 15,000 climbing lessons and have two national ABS champions and dozens of coaches among my proteges. I know Im bragging. But after over 20,000 hours of teaching climbing professionally, you can take my advice or not. Good luck with your TECHNIQUE
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rbord
Boulder climber
atlanta
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Sacrifices for training? I always saw it more as training being the sacrifice we make for the joy of climbing harder.
Not much climbing any more, but did just do a 19 day trip rowing a raft down the Grand Canyon. Started as out of shape as I've ever been. After a few days I was ... tired. More rowing, more music and beer. After a week or so of it I was ... tired. But then I started to get into the groove of it. We'd spend the days charging the whitewater, rowing frantically to catch the eddy, drinking beer and playing music, wandering up the stunning side canyons, watching Orion and his dog Sirius leap over the canyon every evening, sleeping 10 hours a night. After a couple of weeks of it I was ... tired. But I was also really happy.
Now I'm home and not so tired. Am I gonna train for next time? Hell no! Oh maybe just a little bit, just to be able to survive a raft flip.
IMHO, If you like training (and I used to!), or the cost/reward of climbing harder as a result of training motivates you, then you do it. It's an investment in your happiness, not a sacrifice. Heck, make yourself happy, if you can.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2017 - 07:16pm PT
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Even if you climb 12s, try sending 5.9 twenty times in a row without resting.
that's part of the training program... it's not just hangboard... but hangboard is an important part of it
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 10, 2017 - 07:05am PT
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Foregoe a normal life, so I can live next to unlilimited crags and largely do my training outdoors, and avoid the tyranny of the gym.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Mar 28, 2017 - 09:40pm PT
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Comfort kills
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Mar 28, 2017 - 09:44pm PT
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cheese. not beer
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Mar 28, 2017 - 09:50pm PT
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Ok, sex,,,, ok. There I said it. Did anyone else?
Does anyone else reconize the lack of chi the day after some good monkey humpin?
I don't even want'a stand up, let alone hoist a bar over my head😶
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 29, 2017 - 04:37am PT
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No, quite the opposite!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 29, 2017 - 05:07am PT
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(Wasn't caught up,)
the girls that err'd on the side of caution, didn't. Some just couldnt, others wouldn't.
Those that did were always satisfied and said it was a rewarding experience.
1st After, then during & after. Then before. During and After! then just after. Then just instead.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 29, 2017 - 07:44am PT
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I do nothing but natural training.....long, HARD mountain hikes and outdoor climbing. No yoga, pilates, weight training or gym climbing.
The key, as you age, is to occasionally absolutely MAXIMIZE what your body can do. I really believe that it is better to do maximal exercise interspersed with complete, slothful rest than consistent, more moderate but daily exercise.
I realize that my situation is different from most....I live in the mountains and no longer work. Most here live in urban areas and spend hours daily commuting/working. Bottom line....any exercise is better than nothing at all.
So, maybe, as Jaybro said, what you have to give up is a "normal" life.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2017 - 09:07am PT
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certainly work is a part of the sacrifice, I've cut back a lot on what I do for work to try to fit some training in.
If I gave up on work it would be sacrificing that part of my identity for the other part, which is the outdoor mountain part...
that is a huge choice, and would be a huge sacrifice, and a commitment to one or the other of the things I love to do...
perhaps the biggest example for the OP question.
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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Mar 30, 2017 - 10:39am PT
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Herewith I confess my single greatest obstacle to training - and what I need to "sacrifice" to get on with it.
The great joys of sloth itself!
It is ever so rewarding to just sit and do nothing! Like post to Supertopo about the sacrifices one must give up to train.
Reminds me of the great FDR line. "All we have to fear is - fear itself."
"To conquer sloth all we must do is - GIVE UP the joy of SLOTH ITSELF."
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