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COT
climber
Door Number 3
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 23, 2017 - 01:15pm PT
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2JDksIpxUI
I can't understand a word in the video, but this guy seems tough as nails (and looks like it too!). It also appears that hanging on hooks is either against his or the local ethic. The sandstone looks real soft but drilling with one hand, yikes!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Feb 23, 2017 - 01:35pm PT
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There is an 11c route at Dome Rock called Skid Row. One of the bolts is hard to let go to clip and was hand drilled by Ron Carson while holding the small hold and the drill bit in one hand and swinging the hammer with the other while having just about nothing to stand on. Amazing feat of will and power.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Feb 23, 2017 - 01:39pm PT
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Being from Bako I heard a lot of lore about that Carson fella then met him in Sonora but never knew him. The guy in Bako who gave me my first chalk bag said that Ron told him to stand in the shower with the cold water blasting and tie water (no pun intended) knots with one hand and do this till you are comfortable. He said it was a good way to learn to be calm and dexterous in dire situations....I've always remembered it but never done it!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 23, 2017 - 01:49pm PT
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Ron told me that a secret to hard face climbing is to use your entire body like big four fingered hand.
Core strength is key to pull this off.
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Caveman
climber
Cumberland Plateau
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Feb 23, 2017 - 05:08pm PT
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"It also appears that hanging on hooks is either against his or the local ethic. The sandstone looks real soft but drilling with one hand, yikes!"
It looked to me like he put in two bolts (maybe one handed) to hang from and pound in a ring anchor. So, yeah, hanging from hooks is probably verboten there.
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| Messages 1 - 6 of total 6 in this topic |
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