Bigwall Bivvy Logistics for 3

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dags

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 23, 2017 - 06:38am PT
We're looking at climbing Lurking Fear this spring as a party of 3 and trying to figure out the best strategy for bivvies. Anyone with experience with the route or climbing big walls in a party of 3 have suggestions? Obvious candidates include trying to cram onto a double, bringing a double and a single, or just trying for natural ledges (which we understand are not that great on the route).

Thoughts?
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
Feb 23, 2017 - 07:18am PT
Did the Prow on the Column with a party of three. One double ledge and one single ledge worked great.
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Feb 23, 2017 - 08:35am PT
Bring small partners and get cozy.
drF

Trad climber
usa
Feb 23, 2017 - 10:56am PT
I'll second what Mike had to say. Set your sights on Zodiac or TTrip. Tons of beta and trip reports for both of those routes. Really not much 'harder' than LF technically speaking.

You mentioned your trip will be in the Spring? LF could be pretty wet/drippy due to the massive winter they've had in the Sierra. Spring weather in the Valley in general can be fickle.

Having done all three I'd put LF at the bottom of the list due to sucky hauling, storm exposure, and approach/descent. Once you get use to the steeps on the right-side you'll be golden. The hauling is SO much easier. Go with the double and single ledge approach.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Feb 23, 2017 - 02:28pm PT
Cut your haling weight. Take a hammock and every third night you each suffer.

Leading in blocks a good idea.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Feb 23, 2017 - 03:47pm PT
Zodiac is a better route for any number of reasons:

 easier approach [LF approach truly sucks, the last bit]

 easier hauling [it overhangs, your pigs will never get stuck]

 you are much closer to the East Ledges descent [I always rap LF from Thanksgiving Ledge, but you wouldn't want to do that after having just climbed it!]

 similar difficulty in climbing

What's the rush, anyway? How much of an investment in time, effort and money are you making to climb El Cap? Why rush? Why not take the extra time and enjoy it?

Take a single ledge, a double ledge, and lots of beer! See me at the bridge, we'll have some beers, and talk....
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Feb 23, 2017 - 07:21pm PT
The villain has the right idea.

Everyone should suffer on a slab in a hammock.

I say bring 3.

Alpamayo

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Feb 23, 2017 - 08:22pm PT
I've done it with one double ledge and three people. First night fixed up to p3 and hung the ledge, two ropes to the ground and then fixed the 3rd rope s far as we could. One person slept on the ground and the other two on the ledge. Second night ledge hun at the top of 10 and the third person slept on the ledge climber's right between 9 and 10. Third night was up to Thanksgiving ledge, plenty of room for all. Next day to the top and off.
David C

Trad climber
UK
Feb 25, 2017 - 01:34am PT
dags,
we ended up with 3 on the ledge for one night when I did it, it was ok. Write up here, together with a few pointers if you haven't done many (any) walls:

https://www.coldmountainkit.com/knowledge/articles/lurking-fear-yosemite/

Enjoy
Scole

Trad climber
Zapopan
Mar 10, 2017 - 12:34pm PT
Hammocks are the way to go. I think everyone should have to use a hammock on their first 10 El Cap routes. After that its all good.

Hammocks are light, set up easily, and you are not tempted to lay around in bed all day.
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