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Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic |
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 19, 2017 - 09:01am PT
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Are these reliable, anybody use these "in the field"?
http://www.fusionclimb.com/Anchors_c_19.html
Never heard of them, but that doesn't necessarily mean they suck. Thoughts?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2017 - 09:14am PT
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http://www.fusionclimb.com/About-Us_ep_7.html
Looks like they sew their harnesses here in Cali. DId Russ start a sister-company?
Hardware made in Canada, Taiwan, UK. Sounds pretty good. I should test some of this sh#t.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2017 - 09:23am PT
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Cool. thanks Locker!
I can't buy hangers at either of the 2 fuxking REI stores around here, so I have to use my Amazon Prime to bring these babies in ASAP.
Anybody know where to buy hangers TODAY in the Bay Area? Amazon Prime is awesome, but it's tomorrow at best. I have a new drill to get a project done today!
More like maintenance work
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Feb 19, 2017 - 09:27am PT
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Anybody know where to buy hangers TODAY in the Bay Area?
Pacific Edge in Santa Cruz keeps hangers in stock. Not super convenient to Santa Clara considering the condition of 17, but it's the only place I know.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2017 - 09:34am PT
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thanks guys. I don't really want to bother Greg and ASCA for a local project. I'm going to fix up the anchors at middle and lower Guadalupe rocks here in San Jose.
I took my German bro out there and we may put up a couple of new routes too. But the top rap anchors need work. They're somewhat solid but are not ideal. They're lower rock has anchor bolts 4 feet from each other, takes a bunch of long slings to rig it properly. Yadayadayada.
I have all the gear but the hangers. I don't want to relly f*#k with the old hangers if I don't have to. Bruce Morris prolly put those in BITD. Could been Schneider or Yabo too.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Feb 19, 2017 - 02:27pm PT
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Hey Bluey, I'll donate some hangers for replacement, but you'll have to drive down to Gilroy to get them.
I've got some longer 304 SS 5-piece bolts at my work that I can donate as well... since the rock at Guadalupe is kinda crappy, longer bolts are the way to go.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Feb 19, 2017 - 02:46pm PT
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Isn't it under water right now?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Feb 19, 2017 - 03:24pm PT
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locker - Mad Rock and Fusion hangers are quite different than each other. I believe Mad Rock copied their hanger shape from Stubai.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 19, 2017 - 03:26pm PT
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The fusions that I had were burly.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Feb 19, 2017 - 07:53pm PT
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I have been friends with Bridwell, Joe Garland and Fernando and hung out with them earlier to when Mad Rock was first formed. Not sure where the Mad Rock hangers first came from, but never seen a Fusion hanger looking like a Mad Rock. Joe was heavily affiliated with Kong products. I know I had Stubai hangers in my hand many years before Mad Rock came out with theirs and both companies are the first hangers that I have history of having a flange on them allowing a climber to rappel from them. Fernando is on Facebook so I can check with him on what he knows about the Mad Rock Sentinel hanger history.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 20, 2017 - 06:14am PT
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Same price as Fixe hangers, would probably go with the sure thing...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2017 - 09:07am PT
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Cragnshag, sweet offer! I'm not going to proceed until next weekend when it should be sunnier. I'll order some hangers off the net. I have 3 1/2" 5-piece bolts already. They should be long enough for top anchors.
Munge, when I checked it out last weekend only the bottom 2 feet were under water. I have been out there when it's under 15 feet of water and we'd swim across with our shoes and solo up for a while and peel off towards the top for a splashdown. Yes, we did go under water and make sure the area was clear of 'impaling' depris.
Anyway, since I don't need the hangers 'today', I'll get the gear ordered and ready for next weekend.
I'm only like 4-5 blocks from that San Jo flooding. Madonna! Guadalupe is my new weekend crag. I think Skyline is still having issues too.
EDIT: I may do a drive-by today of the lower rock, see where the creek is at.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2017 - 01:57pm PT
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We set up a nice new anchor on the 5.9/5.10+ climbs in the center. And there are Quicklinks to rap it too. Right now your rope will get a bit wet when you pull your rope, but it's a fine anchor. Used dark grey Metolius Enviro hangers so the party crowds don't notice them as much. Good stuff.
I didn't epoxy the bolts/hangers even though I brought some JB Weld. We figured we'd bounce on the bolts a couple of weekends, maybe tightened them up , then epoxy them.
Anybody try Simpson Strong Tie epoxy? It's made for sealing residential bolt connections, looks good.
Is the epoxy to protect the hangers from tweaker theft, the elements, or a bit of both.
We drilled 2x 3 1/2 bolts in like 2 minutes with my kick-a$$ Ryobi SDS Hammer Drill. Great drill!
The bolts are super-solid, we TR'd a couple of routes of them and then rapped the QuckLinks attached to the hangers. Golden. They are perfectly aligned for the 5.9/5.10 routes in the center of the rock. They are over the side of the top, clippable from the ledge just below the top.
Use the old upper anchor bolt as a backup if you want.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega
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If I can share a thought, and I don't know the situation, but it seems like starting with a bomber glue-in bolt would be the best solution for your application. They can't be removed or vandalized like a bolt/hanger and shouldn't need to ever be replaced. I'd hesitate to use epoxy on a mechanical bolt, especially with intent to weather seal them. That can trap water inside the hole causing it to corrode the bolt prematurely, and make it very difficult to replace. Anyhow, Thanks for maintaining the crags.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2017 - 04:08pm PT
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Thanks, Jerry, I'll take that into consideration. The hangers and attached hardware are the usually stolen items. I was thinking of epoxying the hangers to the bolt head, and maybe spray-painting the quicklinks a camo color.
I've also considered hammering the lock-gate on the quick-links so that you can't easily twist them off and steal them. Hence the spray paint. It camos the links, and if done right, will leak enamel spray paint into the threads of the quicklinks to achieve the same goal.
Yer gonna need a wrench and time to get them back off. Not something a 'partier' is going to expend time on.
I've never placed a glue-in. What kind of epoxy is used? JB Weld?
These will be long-term placements. The rock does not see a lot of traffic, but I use it a a lot. I want to put in sh#t that's going to be solid for a long time.
The rock is in Bruce's guide, so it does see some traffic. But I almost never see other climbers on those rocks.
KInda cool. my own place! And a stream runs through it! My next spring project is to see if I can run a dually: Knock out that gnarly 5.9 on lead, AND catch a bass in the nearby stream/resevoir.
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Dickly
Social climber
KY
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They can't be removed or vandalized like a bolt/hanger
Ha! give me a small 16oz hammer and one minute to prove that wrong, 3/8" steel is not that strong. Way bigger of a pain in the ass to replace after someone smashes them as well. Give me 5 minutes with a small torch and it could go home with me.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Simpson strong tie glue you can purchase from Home Depot and if water is an issue use 8" Fixe glue-in hangers. Putting epoxy over hex bolts can be removed with one hit from a hammer. Putting epoxy on quick link threads also can be remove with one hit from a hammer. Instead of using quick links old time climbers used lap links. Cut a groove into the rock so the Fixe glue-in will be partially recessed into the rock preventing a crow bar from twisting it back out. Overall no matter what..... what can be installed with some tool.....can also be removed with some tool.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega
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Here's a link to the Fixe site with glue and bolts. Be sure to get educated on proper techniques before going for it. There are installation videos on the site.
http://www.fixehardware.com/shop/glue-in-bolts/
A hanger can be smashed with a small rock while holding a beer in one hand. You'd have to really want to destroy a glue-in to get rid of it.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2017 - 08:06pm PT
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A climber bud of mine works for Simpson Strong Tie in Oakland. I will discuss this with him.
Climbing on the new anchors, I 'm 5.7 country in this pic. Steep and sweet!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2017 - 08:43pm PT
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My hands look really weird in that pic....
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