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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2017 - 11:06am PT
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Yippee!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 22, 2017 - 11:19am PT
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Send it Marek! What feature are you climbing? Will you be in Sam Ford Fjord?
Only 400 nights, Deucey?
Punter. ;)
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Regan
Big Wall climber
Poland/Scotland
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Feb 22, 2017 - 11:59am PT
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We are going on the East Coast with open minds, so we will see what will happen...
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 22, 2017 - 12:11pm PT
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"We"?? With a partner??
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Regan
Big Wall climber
Poland/Scotland
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Feb 22, 2017 - 12:14pm PT
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Yes, I am going with Yeti, than...
Do not ask too many questions...:)
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Feb 22, 2017 - 12:57pm PT
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Thanks for the link Duece. I'm modestly fearful of what I see on the bed tensioning straps. Without a better picture I am going to probably embarrass myself, but I am an embarrassment on a good day anyway...
If the plan is to use the same ~400D pack cloth equivalent as A5 ledges of yore, the horizontal webbing strip (similar from what I can see to Metolius design) where the strap attaches to the bed makes for really crappy load spreading, resulting in very high stress in the bed material. A few of moderately aged A5 ledges had floor blowouts when people put a knee either at corners, or at the reinforcing triangles (high stress at an existing stress riser).
Metolius uses some horrendously thick overkill bed material, so their crappy load spreading can get away with murder. But I've always hated Metolius' overkill for overkill's sake approach to material selection.
You have to get the reinforcing fibers to be at a diagonal angle to the bed fibers. So V's of webbing at each attachment point will spread the stress out vastly better than any amount of horizontal webbing ever can. A wide webbing reinforcement just shuffles the stress down a couple inches.
End rant. Hopefully I am just not able to see the details.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Breckenridge, CO
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Feb 22, 2017 - 01:20pm PT
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Great article.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 22, 2017 - 01:23pm PT
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Surely you can't imagine the Dyn-amic Deucey to use mere pack cloth on the bed. Ee-ven a man like John could choose a better ma-terial.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Feb 22, 2017 - 01:34pm PT
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Pack cloth, or a similar weight ripstop is plenty strong, but you do need to avoid major stress risers. Russ has been doing pack cloth beads for ages without issue, but he has no tension straps to create stress risers. The 3 yards of material in a ledge makes it a large hitter to total weight, so just using extra thick stuff is a poor engineering solution.
Are we going to find out that Kevlar fabric is on the menu now too? Is that Keprotec (weave looks closer to Keprotec than pack cloth)? I'm dying here.
How about money-print 1000D Polyester Cordura for a really "classy" ledge?
http://www.rockywoods.com/Fabrics-Kits/Heavyweight-Polyester-Fabrics/1000-Denier-Coated-CORDURA-HP-Polyester-Fabric-US-Money
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2017 - 03:07pm PT
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Talk about wordplay, Pete!
Hey Moof, can you send me an email at john at bigwalls.net We've already changed the bed tensioner system and wouldn't mind further discussion offline, as those details are still in flux...
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2017 - 03:32pm PT
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Thanks Moof!
Hey Fet!
Future SuperTopo climbing news email entry for sure! Looks like we didn't make it...
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2017 - 03:33pm PT
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I'm finding that I am referencing this page for my own work now, so here are the key charts in one post:
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 22, 2017 - 03:38pm PT
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John
You should make a WalMart version.
They'll be cheap consumer version for the American back yard hammock to put beer drinking lunker into after he mows the lawn.
They'll sell em in Home Depot too.
$50 and you'll sell millions ......
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2017 - 04:53pm PT
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Thank you Chris! So appreciate your inspiration and of course your great forum over the years!
Cheers
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max kruzic
Big Wall climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 22, 2017 - 07:27pm PT
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Any general timeline for release? Sorry if this has already been answered in previous thread comments. In the market for a new double and would like to hold out to see your design if timing allows.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Feb 22, 2017 - 07:36pm PT
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John design around the cosnept of the Jannu rainfly. Never has let us down
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SalNichols
Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
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Feb 22, 2017 - 07:39pm PT
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Don't forget about electrical conductivity and galvanic corrosion problems between CF and aluminum or stainless steel...or any other kind of steel for that matter.
As for bed material...check out Hydranet.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2017 - 08:31pm PT
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Sign up here to get updates for the upcoming D4 Portaledge Kickstarter:
http://eepurl.com/cDn3kT
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Feb 22, 2017 - 09:01pm PT
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Current portaledge? Hard to answer when you have a stable of 5 jalopies of varying parentage.
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