Zip's Triumphant Return To The Stone - Part 2 -TR (Pending)

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Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 11, 2017 - 12:36pm PT
Injury and illness behind me, and I finally figured how to get back on the stone.
Hire a guide.
I can climb all the classics, with no fear of getting hurt on a leader fall.

The decision on where was easy.
A place Alex Honnold says is not a World Class Climbing Destination, cuz it is it is "chossy, and painful, and always cold and windy".
Joshua Tree.

My plan is to repeat a bunch of stuff I have already lead in the HVCG area.
My hit list is:

Bearded Cabbage
Mama/Papa Woolsey
Deviate
Lower Right Ski Track
Half Track
Pinched Rib
Chalk Up Another One
Pumping Ego

Depending on how I'm feeling, I wouldn't mind taking a shot at Left Ski Track. I have never climbed it, but I think it is a just a one or two moves right below the bolt that are the crux.

I make get out there and get immediately spanked, but hope I don't have to to drop the grade to The Eye, The Bong, or Upper Right Ski Track level.

Headed out in a couple of weeks.
Pretty stoked.
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2017 - 12:16pm PT
Ok, it's a done deal.
Going out next week with the Cliffhangers Guides.
Super stoked.
No idea where I'm at right now, ability wise.
Arriving Thursday.
Hopefully I can bivy in the park.
Anyone here gonna be out there?
Do clients generally give a guide a gratuity?
If yes, what's the general guideline on how much?
Happiegrrrl2

Trad climber
Feb 19, 2017 - 03:42pm PT
Have fun, and yes, tips for guides are definitely appreciated. Consider that the person is spending X number of hours being "on," taking you up routes, being an amiable companion, and making sure you both survive at least through to the point where a tip gets handed over(joke) - IMO the price of a guide(before tip) is a bargain. I have heard ranges from a few bucks(too low) to $50(that was one a guide got once for one client, about seven years ago). I think 20% of the fee is certainly a reasonable point to start from, and adjust as you feel.
drF

Trad climber
usa
Feb 19, 2017 - 04:05pm PT
Good way to get back on the stone if you have the means and don't want to find a rope gun. Tip is definitely not required. You are forking out a lot of dough....$385/day? They are well paid for what they are doing. Do not feel obligated especially if you are on a tight budget.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 20, 2017 - 07:50am PT
Welcome back.

I've had a couple years away from J Tree and miss it. We have a trip planned for spring to get back on the dummy domes.

Hiring a guide is not a bad idea if you can afford it IMO. If you are alone and want to get a lot of climbing in for your time- guides are the way to go.

What I have found is that random partners off the bulletin board can end up in a lot of wasted time. Figuring out climbs everyone is comfortable with or spending a portion of the day lost or looking for a specific formation is not unusual if people aren't familiar with the area... especially in dispersed areas like J-Tree and Red Rocks.
WBraun

climber
Feb 20, 2017 - 08:40am PT
$385/day for a guide.

You people are insane .......
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 20, 2017 - 08:53am PT
$385... yikes. Is that what it really costs these days? Been a gazillion years since I've hired one.
10 years ago it was like $150/day for a private guide.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Feb 20, 2017 - 09:26am PT
I just paid $50 for a guide in Uruguay.
Go Zip, get er done!
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2017 - 09:33am PT
Great input, thanks.

I usually tip 10% to tell you that the service sucked, 15% if it was just average, and 20%+ if service is excellent.

I presently have more money than free time, so the guide seemed like a good idea for a sure thing.

With the exception of wandering around with Todd and Tucker, and climbing with Walt, I am usually on the sharp end, so this will be quite unique for me.

After my motorcycle accident, I had a cast on my foot for almost a year, and it caused an issue with my work. I climb telephone poles for a living, and am eligible for my full pension in just under 2.5 years. I can't get hurt again before I retire. My biggest concern with starting climbing again, is taking a leader fall and getting hurt. Being guided, eliminates that chance, and fear. I'll be free to focus on the movement, and enjoying the experience.

The $385 seems pretty reasonable to me.
It's cheaper than a hooker, and my end result will be more fulfilling.




zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2017 - 10:01am PT
Locker, if this trip goes well, I think I will try the TR solo.
Pretty sure I have a Soloist, and a Grigri.
What is the current "in" device used these days?
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