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Messages 1 - 28 of total 28 in this topic |
Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Dec 13, 2006 - 11:37am PT
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Yo Haggis!
You've got to get them pictures sorted out on that google thing. You are right, the quality is not very good, but the pics would look great if they were not all pixelated etc. Not sure how to do that on the Google.... Hopefully one of the big brains here will help you out. Looks like a great show!
Good job!
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Dec 13, 2006 - 11:59am PT
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As usual, I'm completely jazzed to go after watching a show like that.
Nice work!
~Susan
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Cloudraker
Big Wall climber
BC
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Dec 13, 2006 - 12:13pm PT
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Killer slideshow. The quality is fine if you select the 'normal' view on the bottom right of the Google window.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Dec 13, 2006 - 12:20pm PT
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no normal view button here.... but if I make the entire window smaller, it looks pretty good, and if I download it and then play it in GoogleVision or whatever their app is called it looks better.
Good job again Haggis.
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Haggis
Trad climber
Scotland
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2006 - 12:27pm PT
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much much much better now try the other links
thanks for the comments
im working on one for the Nose but i dont have as many images
Rob
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Scoopy
Big Wall climber
Both feet on the ground
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Dec 13, 2006 - 12:57pm PT
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Great show. I especially like the falling sequence on the Nipple Pitch. Tom must have shot those.
Thanks!
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Kartch
climber
belgrade, mt
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Dec 13, 2006 - 01:11pm PT
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Thanks for putting that together, it's getting me psyched!
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SammyLee
Trad climber
Memphis
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Dec 13, 2006 - 01:27pm PT
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Dude, that is very, very cool. Especially like the sound track that goes with it. Something about this package captures moments.
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BKW
Mountain climber
Central Texas
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Dec 13, 2006 - 01:27pm PT
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Excellent, Great presentation and music. Makes me wish I was there.Thanks for posting.
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Nohea
Trad climber
Aiea,Hi
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Dec 13, 2006 - 02:04pm PT
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Great dood! Looked good here. Thanks for sharing. I really need to get up that route.
Aloha,
wil
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waddell
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 13, 2006 - 02:28pm PT
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Wow fellas makes me want to get back on the big stone. Nice work both on the rock and using the camera.
Thanks for posting
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Dec 13, 2006 - 02:43pm PT
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Lovely. just what I needed.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Dec 13, 2006 - 03:00pm PT
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"Wow fellas makes me want to get back on the big stone."
There are very few days I don't think of her.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 13, 2006 - 03:18pm PT
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Thanks Haggis,
Great show. Looks like you had a blast!
Zander
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Dec 13, 2006 - 08:45pm PT
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No fixed lines. Excellent!
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Dec 14, 2006 - 12:58am PT
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DAng, been a long time since I heard the band FAithless.
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
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Dec 14, 2006 - 03:28am PT
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That was a great TR! The music and the pictures were well done and it gave a great impression of the experience.
While I watched the video I felt a number of emotions. The first was surprise when I recognized one of the climbers in the video! Gerhard is (or at least was) a friend of mine from Camp 4. For both of us, it was our first time staying in the valley, climbing and living the "dirtbag" lifestyle. I remember the Austrian accent well because I could hear it from several sites away. Gerhard has such a friendly, outgoing personallity that you could not help but join in on the fun.
The second emotion I felt was of nostaglia. Gerhard, Storm Williams, David Bird and myself climbed the WFLT as 2 teams of 2. We swapped partners halfway through, and I climbed the second half with Gerhard. This was my first "big wall" and there was a definte gumby factor. I can clearly remember leading the 7th pitch (combined with the 8th) and Gerhard is belaying me. I am back cleaning pieces and I guess I looked a little run-out because Gerhard looks up and says that I should place more pro. So I start clipping pieces and a little while later I am starting to run out of slings and biners and I am wishing I had moderated myself better. Reached the end of the pitch without major mishap but it was an eye opener and shook my nerves.
The emotion I felt next was the metallic taste of fear as I remembered how I finsihed the climb. The first party (Storm and Dave) were on the summit and Gerhard (my partner) was on the summit as well and had just fixed the rope for me. I alone was left at the last belay which is on a narrow, sloping ledge. I cleaned the anchor and stood on the ledge, soaking in the last sights of the climb and the valley before me. I looked up and saw the rope hanging directly above me. I figured for one last hoorah, I would jump of the ledge, onto my jugs. Since the rope was staright above me and it was static, I figured this would be a short drop of rope stretch and then I would start jugging...
How was I to know that the final anchor was actually to the climber's left and in reality, I was looking at a 40' pendulmn to the left? So when I jump off this ledge and start swinging, I am screaming like a little girl. I start spinning out of control and I have an absolute death grip on the handles of my jugs. After an eternity of stomch churning, back and forth, I just focus my eyes upward and started jugging. Good laughs were had all around when I arrived at the top.
The last emotion I felt was curiosity and fear at how I ended the last 40 ft. of the descent. After we arrived at the summit we caught our breath and then headed down. After the initial slab rappels and after the gulley rappels, there is a final slab rappel. This starts at a large ledge with a number of bolts (left over from a YOSAR rescue, as I recall) but this ledge is about 40' short of a 200' rappel to the ground, so you have to stop at an intermediate rappel which is either a bush or a hanging stance.
We do not know any of this and we are thinking we might have a shot at hitting the gorund in one 200' rappel. Brainstorm = lets lower me down on one end of a double rope rappel (I am the lightest and squirrelyist among us). I will carry the other end of the rope with me to minimize custer*uck and I will determine if we can hit the ground or if we need to stop at another rap station... So as I am being lowered I see both the bush rap station and the hanging rap station but since I am stooopid I still think I can hit the ground and make this a full 200' rap. Then I hear the words "TEN FEET" yelled down to me and I know I am way more than ten feet from the ground so I figure I am screwed. I yell up to fix the rope and I will jug up to the last station so we can all lower-off and get out of here. So imagine my concern when I hear, "WAIT!" being yelled down to me and I wait and wait and wait and wait and wait... I have my jugs on the line and am just rerrring to go back up when suddenly I feel myself being lowered down! Soon I am on the ground and yelling "OFF RAPPEL!" The other three team members rap to the bush station and then rap to the ground. When they get down I ask them how they passed the knot of the two tied ropes and lowered me to the gorund. Dave and Storm look at Gerhard and and shake their heads. Now, years later, I know how I would solve this problem, but to this day I do not know how Gerhard did it. Neither Dave or Storm could recall how it was down, just that it worked in Gehrhard's crazy, Austrian way!
It is great to see a friend from the past doing so well. Congrats on the ascent guys! You did a great job and brought back some really good memories. Hope you guys didn't mind listening.
-n
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Haggis
Trad climber
Scotland
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2006 - 04:05am PT
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funny i think i felt much like you did during our ascent. it was a huge learning trip for me i developed a lot climbing with him. although im sure he could put more gear in traverses and he has a heavy had with pin placement.
i think the 45 foot fall on pitch one was an eye opener as was the full exposure hanging jumar.
climb safe
ps the music is Faithless, code followed by evergreen. a product of my stundent days
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Dec 14, 2006 - 07:25am PT
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Great trip report! Thanks for sharing!
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Dec 14, 2006 - 08:15am PT
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you guys did a great job on that slideshow!
that was great!
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Haggis
Trad climber
Scotland
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2006 - 11:12am PT
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No not me. the fact that i like them is a product of my student days
lol
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gheart
Mountain climber
austria
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Dec 14, 2006 - 12:32pm PT
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Hi guys!
I am Gerhard, and I was with Rob on the Zodiac. Maybe you wanna check out my website for some cool pics. I have made slide shows of all the walls I´ve done last fall. The Prow, Salathe and Zodiac. I have lots of video stuff too on my website, one video is already finished, it is about the Nose which I have done last year. I hope I can make some nice videos of the walls of this year soon,but I am afraid this will take a bit. I returned 7 weeks ago from a 14 month climbing journey that took me round the world. it is all on my website.
Here is the adress: http://www.gerhardschaar.com
check the gallery or "DIA SHOW" (slide show) section to see what I was talking about!
great thanks to Chris who helped us and Brian!
great ground crew
see you next spring in camp4
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Dec 14, 2006 - 01:19pm PT
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Yo... nice presentation Rob.... and Gerhard... It was a pleasure to shoot you guys up on the Cap. See you in the spring...
Tom
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TimM
Trad climber
near Joshua Tree
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Dec 14, 2006 - 06:32pm PT
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Haggis, do you remember the last name of Doug ("the soloist") or where he is from ?? He looks like a long lost climbing partner ...
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Climber 46
Social climber
Ottawa, Ontario
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Dec 14, 2006 - 07:41pm PT
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Hi Tim M,
My last name is Pratt-Johnson.
Did we climb in Chamonix in the summer of '81?
Also Rob and Gerhard, I'm trying to get some of my shots put
on a disk. I'll contact you when I get around to it.
Cheers,
Doug P.J.
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TimM
Trad climber
near Joshua Tree
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Dec 14, 2006 - 09:02pm PT
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Doug ... No, we never climbed together. But you look just like another Doug that I've climbed with around Joshua Tree. I thought that was a picture of him offering up the toilet paper.
Haggis ... great slide show.
Tim
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 15, 2006 - 03:30am PT
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thanks for posting the trip report... wonderful way to get a bit of your stoke!
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