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Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 13, 2017 - 01:14pm PT
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Are the landmines more explodable after a big rain like this? Sunny, winter cliff recommendations for 5.8 - 5.10+?
Thanks
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jan 13, 2017 - 07:16pm PT
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He's right about Discovery Wall. Lots of sun, excellent routes and a short approach. Be in a social to very social mood however - it will be crowded to very crowded on a weekend day (and occasionally gets very, very crowded).
The Monolith is similar, without quite as much sun exposure.
For concentrations of sunny routes that don't get as many people, try The Yaks. It's a 45 minute approach from the East Side parking areas. It has some more adventurous routes and also several three star routes (at least two of which were recently re-bolted with ASCA donated, 1/2 inch stainless steel). I've done nearly every route there and have never seen another person that I didn't know. There's even a three star 5.9 at The Yaks that isn't in the newest guidebook; it's on a list kept on the Pinnacles web forum, Mudn'Crud (look for route number 273.2 "Cheeso Pani" (5.9 ***). Here's the link:
http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=886.0
The High Peaks have many good routes too, in a wonderful location. They face all different directions. Some of my favorite climbing days in 33 years of climbing have been in The High Peaks at Pinnacles.
As a final suggestion, the Mudn'Crud list has a whole new area that you'd also have all to yourself: The Northeast Frontier (55 minute approach to a beautiful and remote part of the park). It's sunny from early to well into the afternoon (depending on the route). Climbs there are mostly OK to good, but there is one well protected 5.10c, wild stemming route that is especially good (259.936 Pit Viper 5.10c ***).
Pinnacles is a fun place.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jan 13, 2017 - 07:27pm PT
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Another comment occurred to me too: it's totally cool and considerate of you to be concerned about wet rock and destroying holds right after a storm.
Thanks.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jan 13, 2017 - 09:24pm PT
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Tourist Trap, Discovery Wall and Monolith. High Peaks has many good routes.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Jan 14, 2017 - 10:33am PT
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Yeah, Discovery Wall! Clint and I spent a number of days there in November and with a bit of help from Dan Merrick(Banquo) and John Cook replaced a number of bolts, upgraded anchors and put up some new chain or rap rings. All work sponsored by an Access Fund Anchor Replacement Grant and the ASCA. Enjoy!
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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How about machete ridge?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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> Discovery Wall is due South facing and is always a good bet.
> Monolith (POD etc) same.
Actually their main faces are ESE. So you get morning sun, and afternoon shade.
https://www.google.com/maps/@36.4749394,-121.1855445,487m/data=!3m1!1e3?hl=en
> How about machete ridge?
Most of it faces west, so it doesn't get sun until afternoon.
However, there is a south face, with routes like Derringer, which gets sun all day.
https://www.google.com/maps/@36.4974712,-121.2017423,586m/data=!3m1!1e3?hl=en
Sometimes Machete Ridge closes for bird nesting (Jan 16 - August 1), but not this year:
http://www.pinnacles.org/climbing_info/index.html#closures
The faces that get sun dry off quickly after rain, and holds don't get weakened too much by rain (vs. sandstone at Castle Rock which gets very weak when wet).
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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So how was it on 1/15?
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Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2017 - 07:09pm PT
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All was good. I liked the place so much I made another return trip a couple weeks later. Enjoyed Trauma, Big Pucker, Ali Baba, Get a Grip, the Upper Crust was good and the Monolith-whoa!
I can understand why people hate the place. Super conscious on what I wad pulling on.
Man, got up on top of the Machete, great summit, crap rock, good adventure.
The hand looks awesome, would love to do Love Line.
Met Brad out there. Pinnacles is cool, I think. Love/hate kinda thing; but I'd go back
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