Woodson - 2017

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gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
May 1, 2017 - 07:16pm PT
as you know bobo, B1 can be anything from V4 ish to V whatever, since we had no concept of the higher grades bitd. Now that the scale has expanded so much farther, the old B1's can be given V ratings. It turns out that lots of stuff rick and i were calling 5.11+ is V4 or 5. Anything harder than 11+ got a B1 rating. I dont think we put up more than 2 or 3 B1s tho.

Silk Banana? No idea, i cant even pull my feet off the ground on that f**ing thing. call it VB+ lol
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
May 1, 2017 - 07:24pm PT
Eppulator, great problem. Heres the back story on that. Greg and I were climbing at woodson alot in the 80s, and that problem caught my eye, even tho it was behind a good sized sumac. Every time we passed it i would say "theres a problem there" to which greg would reply "theres nothing there".

One day as we walked up the hill, greg says "wanna see my new problem?" He had cleared the bush out and uncovered the problem i knew was there. Now for Greg to clear brush it had to be good, because he had a strict policy of no clearing or even stamping unless it was for sure going to yeild a good problem.

So i get on it and crank it first try, and gregs response was "aw shoot, anyone can do it, i thot it was hard". Lol true story love ya greg
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
May 1, 2017 - 07:30pm PT
Bvb, that Silk Banana shot is da kine.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
May 1, 2017 - 07:36pm PT
sd nick way to go on blind faith! As far as i know you just did the repeat. There has been talk of clearing a landing, which would turn it into just another mantle. Congrats on sending it full value!

Now dont tell everyone that the actual move isnt that horrendous, its just the psych. That will be our little secret
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
May 1, 2017 - 07:50pm PT
bee vee bee- wasnt epicenter the name of a climb greg put up in canon tajo? Greg, u lurking? straighten us out
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
May 1, 2017 - 10:04pm PT
Mbobo, speaking of the 5.10 face problem (the knob problem in your pic), (you can identify the rock by the distinct crescent shaped flake on the uphill side),I put a bolt on top of that for the 92 bouldering contest that Carmel organized. She had a list of about a dozen climbs she wanted in the contest and left the rest up to me to pick, so i threw in a project i hadnt sent yet, just to the right of the 5.10 face. I called it 11+ face and made it worth one more point than other 11+ problems.

I also ran the contest, and met Allison Osius, who had come down to cover the contest for climbing magazine. Allison sent it and told me she thought it was harder than 5.11+. I told her congratulations, you just did the FA of Allison's Problem 12a. She got a kick out of that. I repeated it later and thought it was pretty hard. I dont know if anybody ever does it these days.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
May 2, 2017 - 06:15am PT
sd-nick! Thanks man, I'd forgotten all about that big rock on top. Good call as the hiking up and down does work the ankle hard.
goboy

Trad climber
san diego
May 2, 2017 - 02:25pm PT
Top slab problems at woodson? I would add these to the list

Nothing to fear 10a (downhill from missing link)
49th street 11c (south slope, below split rock)
stealth bomber 12a (south playground)
the vomitorium slabs 7-10a (easy but fun & classic)
airstream 12 a/b (top of the hill area)
grand slab 7-10a(east face of the same boulder as silk banana ez/fun)
the vision 12 something if youre up for it (w. playground)
the 5.10 faces 10B-ish (downhill from syncopation)

Thanks for the list! stealth bomber seems like more of a solo/ TR than bouldering. Has that one been bouldered ground up? Unfamiliar with most the problems on this list. Good stuff!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
May 2, 2017 - 06:54pm PT
I dunno Ron my man -- I can't keep track of all the "epi-whatever" problems! Maybe that photo is of the "Eppulator?" In any event, it's right on the road and just off the asphalt, facing west, at a tight switchback, in the same cluster as Shawn's Knobs. amirite?
henny

Social climber
The Past
May 2, 2017 - 08:02pm PT
I would personally call the Vision 12+, although it might be a little height dependent. I have a hard time reaching the little black knob up high (full disclosure, I've done all the moves but haven't done it without a hang.) Weinberg can be a bit of a sandbagger with his ratings. Great line though, sorta "visionary" by Ron - haha.

The problem immediately left is also really good. Night Vision, I think I called it 12c/d as I remember. Probably 12d to onsight with no chalk. Plenty of crimping and a bit tricky to pick the line at the crux.

Both are long and neither one of them are one move wonders, so it's doubtful they could be considered bouldering problems, unless you have a stack of pads and are willing to land on 'em. Never know though. There are shared bolts on top, and a half rope works.
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
May 3, 2017 - 12:32am PT
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
May 3, 2017 - 12:38am PT

The young phenom, Michael Paul takes first place in the jr division, '78 (i think) contest at woodson
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
May 3, 2017 - 12:39am PT
Nothing to Fear 5.10a
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
May 3, 2017 - 12:41am PT
the freaks come out at night
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
May 3, 2017 - 12:42am PT
this is the original photo, taken by Peter Campos
from left to right, Peter Campos, Ron Amick, Rick Allenby
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
May 3, 2017 - 12:46am PT
Me and Michael Paul over by Control Tower sometime in the 80's, hanging with one of the best climbers san diego has ever produced, Alan Nelson (center) RIP Alan old buddy, i still miss you
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
May 3, 2017 - 12:48am PT

the freaks come out at night

heh heh
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
May 3, 2017 - 12:50am PT
booB, ya the one you describe is the eppulator
nathanael

climber
CA
May 19, 2017 - 12:17pm PT
Yo friend come do and film Hardy Boy crack at Rubidoux. I can't really bring myself to climb anything without first watching you solo it by yourself with no pad, and I was surprised to see it's not on your channel yet. It's basically a Woodson problem so I assume you can flash it.

Thank you
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
May 19, 2017 - 05:03pm PT
The young phenom, Michael Paul takes first place in the jr division, '78 (i think) contest at woodson

Had to be a different year Ron, 'cause in 1978 I was still living in San Diego, had my mom's car, and that was the year Mike and I were climbing there 4 - 5 days a week and pretty much wired and soloed everything. every. single. thing. on the mountain. If there had been a '78 contest I'd most def have been there, expecting to win, place, or show, then choking in an epic fashion. I think 80 or 81 is more likely, and I was up at evergreen and recall I'd missed a contest. Mike still looked quite youthful in '78. My dad would pick us up and bring him home to my house, my mom would wash his clothes while he took a shower then they'd feed us mountains of food. This was right before he moved from Mission Beach to Miramar with his mom, and then bailed for good to the Valley and Joshua Tree. It was all a very long time ago, so we're probably both fuzzy on the timeline!
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