Discussion Topic |
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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 10, 2017 - 12:54pm PT
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The Supertopo Woodson threads of years past were/are a great source of stoke. A place to share beta and stories, ask questions, and hear the real scoop from real climbers who really lived it.
So as Henny would say – if you got photos, post 'em. Stories, post 'em. Goals? What are they. Questions, comments, concerns? Let's get that community vibe going again. Old schoolers, beginners, boulderers, topropers, scramblers, whatever. There's been some great conditions recently and I know a lot of people are doing a lot of climbing. Post up.
Thin is in.
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sd-nick
climber
San Diego
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Jan 10, 2017 - 03:33pm PT
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Top 5 favorite boulderable slabs: Lemon Chiffon, Gregs face, HDTV, KPs Demise, Head First in the Bushes, and the west face of painted boulder.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Jan 10, 2017 - 03:35pm PT
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I'm not sure I'm qualified to define top ten, but here are a few that I've done that come to mind
Substance Abuse
Lemon Chiffon
The face right of Elsa's Crack
The face right of Tower II crack
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 10, 2017 - 05:18pm PT
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Asking for boulder problems makes it a bit more difficult for me. The great attraction with respect to Woodson for me personally has always been the abundance of high quality TRs. Woodson seemed to have a lock on quality TRs of all sorts: cracks, steep face, and slabs. Great stuff, and some of it you'd be hard pressed to top anywhere - imo.
Now that I no longer work down south I haven't been to Woodson more than a few times in the past couple of years. Too bad. Looking at the beginnings of this thread makes me miss the place.
So yeah, if ya got pictures - post 'em up.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 10, 2017 - 05:21pm PT
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What happened to the old one?
still here?
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jan 10, 2017 - 05:28pm PT
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Hey Henny, Jonny comin out? Maybe Hat Rack as well?
Peace
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Matteo M
climber
San Diego
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Jan 10, 2017 - 06:02pm PT
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Funnn.
Anyone know what that random bolt is for to the left of Yes and No? Seems kinda pointless..
Got spanked several times on Cat Crack.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 10, 2017 - 06:49pm PT
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That's a nice shot of Head First In The Bushes. It more than a few tries to get up that thing! Perfect conditions are a must! Cool, dry, clean.
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Maidenation
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 10, 2017 - 10:10pm PT
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Just a few more gems
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goboy
Trad climber
san diego
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Jan 11, 2017 - 07:45am PT
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Such an awesome Video, that climb looks fantastic!
Still waitng for my Maidenation T shirt!
Size shmedium please.
Some great suggestions I will follow up on! Lemon Chiffon looks great. Does KP's Demise start immediately left of the that big broken edge? or is it more on the East side of the boulder?
Henny, how about any TR's that would be conceivably safe as a high ball? Also, I'll take the top ten TR's too!
Thanks!
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adenparker
climber
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Jan 11, 2017 - 10:14am PT
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South Woodson looks awesome!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 11, 2017 - 01:19pm PT
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Hi Andrew!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jan 11, 2017 - 07:48pm PT
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I had an enjoyable day there a couple of decades ago with my buddy Gonamuk.
I would live around there if I could, but their ain't much oil exploration in the area.
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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2017 - 09:15pm PT
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Tom Burke, wow. I remember him always having a giant smile on his face. RIP, gone way too soon. Any more where that came from Rob??
I'm no slab expert but trying to improve. I'd agree with Lemon Chiffon, Head First and Substance Abuse. Is I Would Die 4 U a slab?? It's thin. I wish I could add HDTV to my list but, so far, not.
Nick is that photo Greg's Face? I gotta give that one a try. I'd like to hear Henny's TR picks too. Wonder if I can do any of them in this lifetime.
Matteo those bolts are Pervs for Title 9, 5.11c. It’s called 9th Circuit on Mountainproject.
Here's Ryan getting after a mega classic the other day.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 11, 2017 - 10:19pm PT
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Nice, Friend.
Hope this thread stays as good as that first page... and that^^^^photo.
Woodson's proper. The few times I climbed there were humbling and rad.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 12, 2017 - 08:54am PT
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Thanks to Friend for posting videos of his recent haul of Woodson Ticks! Blew my mind to see Korean Cowboy go down. I've always had a little obsession with that problem. I'm hoping to put in more time on the shorter boulders this year and get some of those ticked myself!
Other than that, been trying to get on new things each time I get out there. Recently hit up "Left Hand Rule", what a gem! Who named that one? I bet they were a physicist.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 12, 2017 - 09:05am PT
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Andrew,
A couple more from the way-back machine.
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sd-nick
climber
San Diego
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Jan 12, 2017 - 09:46am PT
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Awesome photos Im getting stoked! Anybody else switching up climbing plans this weekend to climb Woodson because of this thread?
Yes Friend that be Greg's face. First time up it last weekend, bring a rope to get down, its good.
KP's demise is the face left of Morrocan menace, ascends immediately left of the detatched flake at the bottom.
I havent got on Substance abuse, Yes and No crack looks rad.
Ryan on Painted boulder
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adenparker
climber
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Jan 12, 2017 - 09:50am PT
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The Hanging Gardens area has some super cool slabs, unfortunately a key knob on this one broke making it either impossible or just mega hard..
Also, is there a problem to the right of Death Vomit? Starts on a slopey xeno then goes straight up on nothing holds. Kind of interesting
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goboy
Trad climber
san diego
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Jan 12, 2017 - 10:29am PT
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I still have to make my way over to Hanging Gardens, looks like some great climbs!
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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2017 - 11:25am PT
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Yeah, great photos. Every post is getting me fired up, keep em coming. Hope some more of the old school will pipe up too. Even if it's stuff we've seen before, it definitely gets ya psyched – so bring it babe. Hehe.
Hey Darkmagus! I thought Korean Cowboy was great. But I'm not sure I did it "correctly." When I got home I looked at mountainproject, and saw the crux, and the reason for its name – is a mantle! Uhhhh........ hmm. So, I got the two handholds, hiked my feet up (crux for me) and, right at the point when you'd turn your hand and start to press, I just... let go, and reached up for the next hold. Sort of a no-hand mantle lol.
Also on the subject of Epperson classics, Ryan and I tried Syncopation the other day. Hoping to get that one next time. It is super cool. Technical, burly, tall.. oh yeah.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 13, 2017 - 11:52am PT
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SD Nick: Matteo and I changed up the plans and are hitting up Woodson tomorrow (instead of J-Tree)!
Friend: The "mantle" beta always puzzled me, heard it described as a "saddling-up" of sorts, but never saw anything but the couple pics on MP. After seeing that video, I've never been more psyched for 12 feet of stone!
This thread needs more pics, I'll take a bunch tomorrow!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jan 13, 2017 - 01:51pm PT
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Sweeeeeeeeet! Thanks for starting the 2017 Woodson thread! I need all the motivation I can get this year as I will be starting at ground zero. Looking forward to being able to stick my right ankle into Sickle Crack again ;)
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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2017 - 08:14pm PT
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Do it Mike! Send that thing. I'm going to be wandering around there tomorrow as well and will look for you all. I'd love to heckle, err, ah I mean cheer you on, on KC.
Here's a photo for motivational purposes. Drive By 5.11 thin crack with standard Do Not Fall landing zone at the crux. Great problem, I believe the FA was by Maidenation and Goboy a few years back.
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adenparker
climber
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Jan 15, 2017 - 08:52am PT
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Here's a few photos from yesterday! Photo credits to Jed on a lot of these.
Anyone know if this things been done? I'd be surprised if it hasn't. It's on the same boulder as He Man and follows a juggy crimp rail to a hard no holds topout.
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Matteo M
climber
San Diego
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Jan 15, 2017 - 11:32am PT
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Photo of Digits Delight from yesterday.
Nice work on He Man, Aden! Did you get on the finger crack to the right of the corner at Grand Central?
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adenparker
climber
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Jan 15, 2017 - 08:56pm PT
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Thanks Matteo! We didn't get on that one just because the landing is terrible, and I'm not solid enough to solo that thing yet. It looks incredible!
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sd-nick
climber
San Diego
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Jan 16, 2017 - 09:07am PT
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Great Woodson weekend! Cool cats, new climbs, rad sends. Highlight had to be seeing Lie Detector go down in a flash. Amazing. Well done Friend! I also enjoyed getting humbled on Heman. I woke up and did some dips this morning.
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adenparker
climber
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Jan 17, 2017 - 07:04am PT
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Nice photos Nick, looks like you got on a few of the things we tried that day as well!
How hard is He Man? I wanna get an idea of where I'm at on these Woodson mantles..I've been enjoying them recently :-)
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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2017 - 09:19am PT
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Thanks Nick! That was such a killer day. Always a great time up there.
Mike spotting, Nick sending, Matt soaking up the vibes
Here’s one from a few weeks ago. Chris airing his heels on a nice piece of rock.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 26, 2017 - 11:58pm PT
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I've done this prob a thousand times, but can't for the life of me remember where it is or what it's called? Anyone recognise it?
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Jan 27, 2017 - 08:35am PT
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Great to see this thread has legs again. Conditions are perfect right now.
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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2017 - 07:52pm PT
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Damn... all these years later and BVB still manages to dig up brand new/old school (?) shots. The "Classic Knobs" problem just down from the Painted boulder. I checked it out for the first time recently after seeing adenparker's photo of it. Surprise, surprise: it's killer. More please.. the vintage shots always inspire.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 27, 2017 - 11:49pm PT
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I found a photo of the Vice Principle's Office that gives you a decent look at the route, although the steepness does not come though -- If you fall near the bottom of the thing, you're gonna go for a really big swing. It's right at the point where you wonder: is this just really overhanging? or is it a roof? Bonus points when you tick spring break, a great 5.11 face route that you walk under during the approach.
I'd be really interested in getting a second opinion on how hard people think the VP's office is. Burlfest for sure; no fancy footwork or fingerlock finesse on that beast. You just gotta muscle up.
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Jan 30, 2017 - 09:06am PT
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Jan 30, 2017 - 09:14am PT
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crřtch
climber
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Jan 30, 2017 - 11:14am PT
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CH airing it out! Climb on, brother.
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adenparker
climber
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Great day at Woodson today. We checked out 'Starface', what an amazing route! It's a new favorite of mine. Only did the right variation, we'll have to try the left one next time..
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sd-nick
climber
San Diego
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Yea dude Starface is rad. The center line is awesome too, real clean little dimes.
Cool feature
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say... just a bump... neat stuff here...
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adenparker
climber
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Just curious..anyone know what this thing is? I came across it while wandering around near Laker Girls and can't find info on it. It's not often you see a sport climb at Woodson...
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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That looks like Coco's Cruise. Although I only remember one lead bolt on it...right about where that rust stain is next to the present first bolt. It's pretty weak that someone retro bolted this. From my perspective the original bolting felt right at home for woodson and shaped my fond experience of the climb.
Also, the left arete is pretty good. I top roped it and it seemed much harder.
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adenparker
climber
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Ah cool. Yeah I was surprised to see it bolted. Looks fun though!
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Karl Mueller
Trad climber
Boulder CO
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Mother Superior, November, 1984. My farewell send at Woodson before leaving my then life long home in San Diego for a career in Geology.
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theAntiPaul
Ice climber
Niwot
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^^^^
Remember that all too well Karl, begged you not to solo it and almost puked watching.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Way to go Karl! - Grug
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Awesome solo, especially with the old skool shoes. That thing is a beast when you are roped in, let alone a solo.
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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2017 - 11:47pm PT
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Awesome photo Karl!! What a milestone achievement. Do you have any particular memories of that day, or leading up to it?
The photo is amazing, and yet it doesn't even begin to do justice to the position you are in. RAD!
Anyone else climbed that thing sans cord?
I wonder too. Man that can't be a very long list..
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Feb 11, 2017 - 07:01am PT
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Matt Beebe I believe also soloed MS.
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Karl Mueller
Trad climber
Boulder CO
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Feb 11, 2017 - 10:49am PT
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In response to Friends query, yes this was a special day. I grew up climbing at Woodson and had just finished a graduate degree in Geology in 1984 and was leaving San Diego to start a career. I was fit and had a burr under my saddle, wanted to do something fitting for the occasion. So I soloed Mother Superior. This was waaay out of my comfort zone, a once in a lifetime tick. Friends with me at the time thought I was nuts and frankly I sorta was. This was just inside my envelope of ability. But I had done it successfully many times, so had the moves wired. Mother Superior had additional meaning to me because Woodson was where I learned to hand and fist stack offwidths, bringing them into the realm of possibility. Greg Cameron used to arm bar up this thing like some kind of sunday stroll along a beach boardwalk and I could only watch in awe. So fun stuff, part of my youth and a fond memory, not to mention 60 pounds and 32 years ago. I can hardly walk up Woodson now, much less climb there.
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adenparker
climber
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Feb 13, 2017 - 09:47am PT
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Fun night session spent in the Masters of the Universe area the other night. Fell off some slabs but managed a few mantles.
I remember reading a pretty great story that Ron posted a while ago of BVB slowly cranking this thing out. I kind of had the same experience! At least we had the luxury of a pad on the ground.
Also..there was lots of chalk on Blind Faith. I have a feeling it was just people touching the holds though. What an inspiring and terrifying climb!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 13, 2017 - 10:01am PT
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Just so you know, Karl, I never soloed Mother Superior. The upper part is what always scared me -- past the offwidth. That was a good tick by you!
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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2017 - 10:20am PT
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Karl thanks so much for sharing that recollection. That was amazing and really struck a deep note. You described it so well. I love your comment how MS was outside your comfort zone, but obviously you were deeply inspired. Too cool.
Also inspired by Grug arm barring MS, Aden's mantle madness, and so many others. There's a lifetime's worth of challenges on that little hill and always all kinds of quiet rad efforts going on, off in the chapparal, as folks stroll by on their way to the potato chip rock.
Here's a shot from this weekend. Had a "burr under my saddle" for this one myself.
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Feb 13, 2017 - 10:38am PT
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WOW. just watched the video friend. damn.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 13, 2017 - 11:08am PT
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Karl said
In response to Friends query, yes this was a special day. I grew up climbing at Woodson and had just finished a graduate degree in Geology in 1984 and was leaving San Diego to start a career. I was fit and had a burr under my saddle, wanted to do something fitting for the occasion. So I soloed Mother Superior. This was waaay out of my comfort zone, a once in a lifetime tick. Friends with me at the time thought I was nuts and frankly I sorta was. This was just inside my envelope of ability. But I had done it successfully many times, so had the moves wired. Mother Superior had additional meaning to me because Woodson was where I learned to hand and fist stack offwidths, bringing them into the realm of possibility. Greg Cameron used to arm bar up this thing like some kind of sunday stroll along a beach boardwalk and I could only watch in awe. So fun stuff, part of my youth and a fond memory, not to mention 60 pounds and 32 years ago. I can hardly walk up Woodson now, much less climb there.
Rad.
This thread is good this year!
Friend- badass shot there!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Feb 13, 2017 - 11:22am PT
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Nice tic Friend, and another great video.
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crřtch
climber
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Feb 13, 2017 - 12:44pm PT
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Strong bald dude still soloing everyone's projects. I enjoyed the video.
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adenparker
climber
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Feb 13, 2017 - 01:49pm PT
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^ mine too :-). Looked solid on that giant AJ! Amazing.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 13, 2017 - 04:38pm PT
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Proud Andrew!
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Feb 13, 2017 - 06:28pm PT
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I think it is safe to say that in the modern period of Mount Woodson, say the last ten years, Friend has the burliest record of crack solos. He is not afraid to go for the on-sight. I have watched him send a few sick ones.
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sd-nick
climber
San Diego
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Feb 14, 2017 - 08:28am PT
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Real badass send Friend. And camerawork. Tough pic to follow but it really got me stoked to press out some spooky mantles. Blind faith and something on the backside.
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adenparker
climber
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Feb 14, 2017 - 09:36am PT
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No way, Nick! I thought for sure that chalk was someone just touching the holds! How was it? Do you hang it first or jump into it from standing on the boulder? That's amazing dude, I've been curious about that one for a while. Looks mega hard and terrifying.
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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2017 - 10:05am PT
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Thank you all for the great comments. I am stoked.
Nick man I was gonna call you out. Awesome job on Syncopation! And Blind Faith, holy sh#t.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Feb 14, 2017 - 11:13am PT
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Stellar thread yall! I wish I lived closer.
Where is this rad video everybody is drooling about? I can't seem to find it upthread.
Here's some stoke from my own backyard boulders in Fresno...
Private property. Probably 2000sq acres. More boulders than Hueco Tanks or Rocklands South Africa.
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sd-nick
climber
San Diego
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Feb 14, 2017 - 11:38am PT
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Thanks Friend! Haha Aden you called it correctly when you first saw the chalk, that was a feel sesh. I went back last night for the send. I hopped up into it from the stance, a static hang would be rad and real hard. Definitly scary but you can start your right hand in mantle position from the stance and lock it in before committing.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Feb 14, 2017 - 12:36pm PT
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Burly send. Well done. Thanks for the link.
Scott
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adenparker
climber
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Feb 14, 2017 - 01:37pm PT
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Man that's gnarly. Nice job. The slab topout doesn't look that easy either..one day!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 14, 2017 - 02:00pm PT
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Hey Woodson guys-
Crossposting some of this killer content in the "Bouldering Sesh" thread would be cool.
Anything in the futile battle against all the political threads!
Strength In Numbers!
Keep it up, loving this thread.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Feb 14, 2017 - 06:02pm PT
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I hope you guys all realize that "Friend" (who IS my dear friend) climbed that thing ALONE and obviously also filmed it alone.
Jeez...
When I first met him maybe 15 years ago I was the better climber. Well...those days are long gone!
In this neck of the woods we refer to him as "The Mighty Thor". I gotta admit though, "Strong Bald Guy" is pretty awesome too!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 14, 2017 - 06:51pm PT
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I, for one, am very impressed. Sheesh, Woodson is my home turf! Lie Detector was so far out of my ability that I didn't even really feel bad about not being able to do it. 5.11 was good enough for me! It wasn't out of the ability of my mentor and sometimes climbing partner, Rick Piggott. Rick was like Wolverine.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Feb 14, 2017 - 07:33pm PT
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Keep the photos and posts coming
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Feb 19, 2017 - 07:44pm PT
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sd-nick
climber
San Diego
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Feb 21, 2017 - 09:34am PT
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Nice Contractor! That Monster crack looks awesome and hard. Heads up there is a trash cleanup on the hill this Saturday from 9 to 12 that Allied Climbers is putting on.
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adenparker
climber
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Feb 21, 2017 - 01:47pm PT
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Dang, nice solo of Starface, Nick! That's spooky..maybe not for you slab wizards though!
I've wanted to check out those Long's Mantles. Yowza. Is that last photo of the crazy mantle shelf in Grand Central Station?
See you guys at the clean up
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 21, 2017 - 04:57pm PT
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if you're from san diego, and you put in the time to get to know woodson, the place will haunt your dreams forever, no matter how far your travels and adventures take you. in every single granite arena i've climbed, no matter where in the world, i would always digest the climbs and the grades against a woodson yardstick. it's in my DNA. but it's cool -- if you master the really hard stuff at woodson, you're gonna be a player no matter where you go. superthin micro edging, cracks -- it's all good. I'll never forget my first full summer in the valley in 1977. 0n our second or third day there Mike Paul flashed short circuit, and I did it second try wearing a pair of scats with the soles held on with duct tape. The tough guys who took us to it were slackjawed, but congratulatory. I say this because at woodson you can hit hard stuff over and over with no access or approach logistics, ease of access, a place to rapidly hone technique. It's like the world's best outdoor crack gym. woodson is arguably one the best places in America to learn granite cracks. I dragged my ex-wife out there every day for a few months and as soon as the nickle dropped and the fitness kicked in, she was a force of nature. I'm not sure but I think she might have the first and only female ascent of Hear My Train. Once she did Jaws 10 or 11 times in a row, wearing a different outfit every time. Eppi had a pack full of woman's clothes from Patagucci and was trying to get a money shot. When we moved to Yosemite in '87, she was a rock solid 5.11 climber, leading every pitch on everything at Arch Rock over the course of many, many trips up those routes. point is, time spent climbing at woodson is time very well spent!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 21, 2017 - 05:15pm PT
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On another note, Damn Freind!!! Nice job on the detector. I might be wrong, but I think it's been 31 years since someone did a solo lap. Rick Piggot in 85, some other guy in 86, now you in 2017. Huge bonus style points for going up there and doing it alone, no spectators. That how Bachar rolled on Driving South. My nigga!
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Feb 21, 2017 - 07:32pm PT
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BVB-So well said.
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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2017 - 09:55pm PT
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I really wish I had heard about the cleanup earlier. I remember thinking over the holidays how cool it would be if another Woodson gathering came together. I just got wind of it last week and already have a plane ticket to Smith rocks Friday. Hoping for cold temps (guaranteed) and minimal precip (iffy.) Thank you to everyone who cleans up some trash this weekend, or ever.
BVB that recollection was solid gold man, as usual. And thanks for the kind words. It's so humbling to get kudos from climbers you look up to. I think eeyonkee gets the prize though, for his comment that "5.11 was good enough" for him. LOL. We're talking first ascents of sandbagged overhanging 5.11+ offwidths right? Some of the most notorious and feared climbs for miles around? Yeah, I guess that sounds good enough! Gimme a nice finger crack any day. Respect.
It is so cool to see these posts from the old school and the new school alongside each other. I think everyone who has posted to this thread so far has done something that has blown me away and I know there are plenty of lurkers who are getting after it as well. Keep it coming everybody, stoked to see what comes next.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 23, 2017 - 07:55pm PT
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Speaking of Old School, I just stumbled across this photo of The Vice-Principal's Office from 1986. The first couple of moves after stepping off the ground are an absurd powerfest crack with a really awful size -- then you go into the 15 feet of remarkable technical fist that I'm just starting in the photo. The photo does not begin to capture the steepness of this thing -- you're basically climbing out of the roof of a cave using a crack of bedeviling size. The photo also doesn't show the smooth, clean, five star thin hands crack that comes after you turn the lip. It's a long climb by Woodson standards. You young squidlets need to get down there, do us all proud, and get some decent photos! The ultra-desirable, portfolio fluffing, resume building, massively coveted third ascent is out there, YOURS for the TAKING!!
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adenparker
climber
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Feb 23, 2017 - 07:58pm PT
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AJ, I was just thinking the same thing about a Woodson reunion! What happened to those??
The other night we were at Woodson working one of our many projects by headlamp and a big battery powered work light. On our way down the hill we were confronted by a cop car driving up and we were stopped. They asked to see our hands and asked what we were doing. Turns out somebody saw our lights shining through the bushes and thought we were spray painting, and called the police. They were even shining a huge spotlight up at us! It was funny..just earlier that night we were wondering how visible we were with our lights up there!
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Never ending Story" Love it ! It is so cool to watch the next generation of "hard men"
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Bouldering "lie detector" Damn Andrew!
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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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Love that video of third classing Lie Detector. Man, you hiked that lower section. Nice!
I remember years ago finding a large, very alive (4 ft?) rattlesnake in the upper section of Lie Detector as I was topping out. A bit of a surprise, and must've found it's way up there by being dropped by a hawk, or something.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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After having similar experiences, we've figured out that rattlers hang out in cracks that bats frequent- easy meal.
So if you see that dark bat sh#t steak coming out of a crack, beware.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Mar 26, 2017 - 06:15am PT
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There was a pair of nesting Ravens there last season. We'll steer clear of that area until nesting season is over. Thanks for the pic!
"Splitters over there" are you immune to Poison Oak?
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JustThatEasy
climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Mar 26, 2017 - 06:37am PT
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These are the threads that I cruise the 'taco stand for. Pure climbing content and tons of stoke. Love it.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 12, 2017 - 05:37am PT
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Matteo M
climber
San Diego
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Apr 12, 2017 - 11:08am PT
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Nice Skreidc! If the ankle is good enough to trudge around Woodson, you must be on the mend. Lets get out there sometime again!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 13, 2017 - 05:58am PT
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Ha! Working on it... I did stick my feet into Elsa's Crack for a couple laps.
Matteo, NICE leading the other weekend. Especially the second pitch! Hat's off!
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Apr 15, 2017 - 07:52am PT
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Video stills from yesterday
Headed back today, tomorrow, and mid week next week.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Apr 18, 2017 - 09:35pm PT
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 19, 2017 - 06:09am PT
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I've suspected that finger crack was not quite 10a, I could get up it too easily. But my rating skills suck. Either way it's really fun!!
Nice shots
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 19, 2017 - 10:30am PT
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I'm 6'4' with long arms so it could be a height/and or finger size dependent thing. I know those 2 GCS cracks. But that one in the "dihedral" is bomber size for me tho, and hence easier than the other. It's so good that if I'm not careful my fingers can get stuck.
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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2017 - 09:54pm PT
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We had a great day down there last weekend. Did my best to sandbag Jon, got sandbagged myself by Terry, and this guy was floating everything in sight. Thin fingers, no problem.
Jon is belaying and studiously copping beta for the solo. Heh. Good times.
Killer photos ^^ is that Patty leading Out of Sight? SWEET!!
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Apr 21, 2017 - 03:44pm PT
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Jon is belaying and studiously copping beta for the solo. Heh. Good times.
I'm not sure I can match his beta for power laybacking the start.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Apr 21, 2017 - 07:21pm PT
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With Henry's tiny fingers, it probably climbs more like Laverne- burly!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 23, 2017 - 02:07pm PT
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saw some other videos online.
links?
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Apr 23, 2017 - 05:27pm PT
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Awesome shot Friend👍
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 26, 2017 - 07:10am PT
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Great shot, Karl Mueller. As it turns out, I've been training your niece for some time now. Guess pulling hard comes in the family :)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 26, 2017 - 11:39am PT
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Greg repeating Eppicenter a couple of weeks after the first ascent, 1985:
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 26, 2017 - 11:42am PT
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Greg highballin' The Cave, 1984:
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orionisasian
Trad climber
Santee
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Apr 27, 2017 - 10:05pm PT
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Here's a couple from past weeks. Great times out on both hills this season! Anyone into getting wide this Sunday? That Monster crack looks so good!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 28, 2017 - 01:02am PT
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Silk Banana. Is it B1-, or V6? We report, you decide!
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 04:34am PT
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Shady all day- go get it!
Orion- A left elbow pads helps :)
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 06:18am PT
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Hey guys, I need some help. Is there some long super easy slab on Woodson? Like in the 5.2-5.3 range and maybe a short pitch long? This would be perfect for helping me rehab my busted ankle; really slow methodical feet placement and movement over a long distance. I'm running 10 laps on the short slabs I know and was looking something different (and longer). I realize just getting to it would be a workout for my ankle too. It would just be part of the package along with bringing a bucket of ice in the car for when I get out.
Nice pics btw! Keep the stoke going!
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 07:02am PT
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The blues are 5.5 and below slabs.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 09:13am PT
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Thanks contractor! That looks pretty close to what I need now, and I know the old Y crack trail so that should be easy to find.
On another note, I need to get together with you. I'll be in touch
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sd-nick
climber
San Diego
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On the biggest boulder on Woodson, all the way on top of the hill, on the same boulder as Barbaro offwidth, is a 120' beautiful easy slab facing south. There is one shutdown move about 30' up, but if you lower in from top and start above that spot, is a really clean 5.5 slab to the top. Plus you get the cardio workout getting there
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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I've done this prob a thousand times, but can't for the life of me remember where it is or what it's called? Anyone recognise it?
ya bob, its called "the 5.10 face"... no shi t, and its a great, classic little 10c/d face prob
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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as you know bobo, B1 can be anything from V4 ish to V whatever, since we had no concept of the higher grades bitd. Now that the scale has expanded so much farther, the old B1's can be given V ratings. It turns out that lots of stuff rick and i were calling 5.11+ is V4 or 5. Anything harder than 11+ got a B1 rating. I dont think we put up more than 2 or 3 B1s tho.
Silk Banana? No idea, i cant even pull my feet off the ground on that f**ing thing. call it VB+ lol
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Eppulator, great problem. Heres the back story on that. Greg and I were climbing at woodson alot in the 80s, and that problem caught my eye, even tho it was behind a good sized sumac. Every time we passed it i would say "theres a problem there" to which greg would reply "theres nothing there".
One day as we walked up the hill, greg says "wanna see my new problem?" He had cleared the bush out and uncovered the problem i knew was there. Now for Greg to clear brush it had to be good, because he had a strict policy of no clearing or even stamping unless it was for sure going to yeild a good problem.
So i get on it and crank it first try, and gregs response was "aw shoot, anyone can do it, i thot it was hard". Lol true story love ya greg
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Bvb, that Silk Banana shot is da kine.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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sd nick way to go on blind faith! As far as i know you just did the repeat. There has been talk of clearing a landing, which would turn it into just another mantle. Congrats on sending it full value!
Now dont tell everyone that the actual move isnt that horrendous, its just the psych. That will be our little secret
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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bee vee bee- wasnt epicenter the name of a climb greg put up in canon tajo? Greg, u lurking? straighten us out
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Mbobo, speaking of the 5.10 face problem (the knob problem in your pic), (you can identify the rock by the distinct crescent shaped flake on the uphill side),I put a bolt on top of that for the 92 bouldering contest that Carmel organized. She had a list of about a dozen climbs she wanted in the contest and left the rest up to me to pick, so i threw in a project i hadnt sent yet, just to the right of the 5.10 face. I called it 11+ face and made it worth one more point than other 11+ problems.
I also ran the contest, and met Allison Osius, who had come down to cover the contest for climbing magazine. Allison sent it and told me she thought it was harder than 5.11+. I told her congratulations, you just did the FA of Allison's Problem 12a. She got a kick out of that. I repeated it later and thought it was pretty hard. I dont know if anybody ever does it these days.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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sd-nick! Thanks man, I'd forgotten all about that big rock on top. Good call as the hiking up and down does work the ankle hard.
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goboy
Trad climber
san diego
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Top slab problems at woodson? I would add these to the list
Nothing to fear 10a (downhill from missing link)
49th street 11c (south slope, below split rock)
stealth bomber 12a (south playground)
the vomitorium slabs 7-10a (easy but fun & classic)
airstream 12 a/b (top of the hill area)
grand slab 7-10a(east face of the same boulder as silk banana ez/fun)
the vision 12 something if youre up for it (w. playground)
the 5.10 faces 10B-ish (downhill from syncopation)
Thanks for the list! stealth bomber seems like more of a solo/ TR than bouldering. Has that one been bouldered ground up? Unfamiliar with most the problems on this list. Good stuff!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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I dunno Ron my man -- I can't keep track of all the "epi-whatever" problems! Maybe that photo is of the "Eppulator?" In any event, it's right on the road and just off the asphalt, facing west, at a tight switchback, in the same cluster as Shawn's Knobs. amirite?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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I would personally call the Vision 12+, although it might be a little height dependent. I have a hard time reaching the little black knob up high (full disclosure, I've done all the moves but haven't done it without a hang.) Weinberg can be a bit of a sandbagger with his ratings. Great line though, sorta "visionary" by Ron - haha.
The problem immediately left is also really good. Night Vision, I think I called it 12c/d as I remember. Probably 12d to onsight with no chalk. Plenty of crimping and a bit tricky to pick the line at the crux.
Both are long and neither one of them are one move wonders, so it's doubtful they could be considered bouldering problems, unless you have a stack of pads and are willing to land on 'em. Never know though. There are shared bolts on top, and a half rope works.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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The young phenom, Michael Paul takes first place in the jr division, '78 (i think) contest at woodson
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Nothing to Fear 5.10a
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ß Î Ř T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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the freaks come out at night
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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this is the original photo, taken by Peter Campos
from left to right, Peter Campos, Ron Amick, Rick Allenby
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Me and Michael Paul over by Control Tower sometime in the 80's, hanging with one of the best climbers san diego has ever produced, Alan Nelson (center) RIP Alan old buddy, i still miss you
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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the freaks come out at night
heh heh
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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booB, ya the one you describe is the eppulator
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nathanael
climber
CA
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May 19, 2017 - 12:17pm PT
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Yo friend come do and film Hardy Boy crack at Rubidoux. I can't really bring myself to climb anything without first watching you solo it by yourself with no pad, and I was surprised to see it's not on your channel yet. It's basically a Woodson problem so I assume you can flash it.
Thank you
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 19, 2017 - 05:03pm PT
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The young phenom, Michael Paul takes first place in the jr division, '78 (i think) contest at woodson
Had to be a different year Ron, 'cause in 1978 I was still living in San Diego, had my mom's car, and that was the year Mike and I were climbing there 4 - 5 days a week and pretty much wired and soloed everything. every. single. thing. on the mountain. If there had been a '78 contest I'd most def have been there, expecting to win, place, or show, then choking in an epic fashion. I think 80 or 81 is more likely, and I was up at evergreen and recall I'd missed a contest. Mike still looked quite youthful in '78. My dad would pick us up and bring him home to my house, my mom would wash his clothes while he took a shower then they'd feed us mountains of food. This was right before he moved from Mission Beach to Miramar with his mom, and then bailed for good to the Valley and Joshua Tree. It was all a very long time ago, so we're probably both fuzzy on the timeline!
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adenparker
climber
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May 20, 2017 - 10:07am PT
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First time back at Woodson in a while. Here's a fun slab from last night. Anyone know it?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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May 20, 2017 - 08:04pm PT
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i will defer to your memory bob-o, mine is getting worse all the time
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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2017 - 08:50pm PT
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I haven't done Hardy Boys but would like to. Who's got photos and stories of that one?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 23, 2017 - 01:16am PT
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Hardy Boys is a LOT like Hear My Train but is NOT at ALL like Hrear My Train, slightly right leaning at the bottom in a really shallow, barely-there right-facing groove. The big difference is that the hard moves -- tips jams in pin scars -- are way off the ground, over a not-so-good boulder-strewn landing. So there is quite a bit more committment involved. It's a for sure puckerfest. But it is also pretty manageable -- you can climb up and down and up and down pretty easily before committing to the ankle snapping finish. And it's on that killer Roubidoux stone, so baybee man that's just the frosting on the cake! It was my first trip to Roubidoux, Jan or Feb 77, just me and Mike ditching school, no rope, no pads, scats on the hoofers, not much spotting going on. It was a good day.
Like I say, I only did it the one time, scared myself,
one and done on a perfect winter day, so everything I just wrote could just be an epic case of confirmation bias smothered with rich creamy euphoric recall.
But I don't think so.
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nathanael
climber
CA
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May 23, 2017 - 08:22am PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
Definitely feels reminiscent of Hear My Train.. maybe a bit harder but I haven't spent much time on it. I played on it a little bit on TR. The first 3-4 moves off the ground are real tough and I couldn't quite do them. Tips in pin scars and some laybacking.
Then a few steep moves on ok fingerlocks to the jug, still pretty hard but doable for me (I'm weak). Then it eases up.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Jul 17, 2017 - 05:41pm PT
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video screenshots from this past weekend
A nod to Eyonkee for setting the precedent of bouldering this one.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 17, 2017 - 10:02pm PT
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Hardy Boys is, well, let's just say, sort of a wanna be Woodson crack. A little to short and not quite hard enough for Woodson (although close.) This is not to dis Rubidoux. It has slab/face problems that can rival anything at Woodson. There are just to few cracks at Rubidoux, especially of difficulty.
There was rumor at one time that some Woodson operatives had snuck in and done Hardy Boys. Names being tossed around were BVB and Mike Paul. I had completely forgotten about BVBs post re Hardy Boys. Guess the rumor was true. I can't help but notice the dig BVB got in when he mentioned scats as the shoe of choice, haha. Trying to get even with KP for 10a on the Outside I suspect.
Friend should consider doing Hardy Boys if he hasn't already, it is actually quite good. By the sounds of it, BVB and Mike Paul may have soloed it. I know that Tim Powell essentially soloed it because his girlfriend didn't take rope in and he didn't notice until toping out. I don't know of any other solos BITD, and I'm out of touch with the current scene. I suspect solos are still fairly rare?
Re the Hardy Boys video clip, love that orange/red rock. Good stuff, that Rubidoux rock.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 17, 2017 - 10:11pm PT
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Re the passing of BVB: as I mentioned in the dedicated thread I hope someone can get around to doing a new problem or two and giving names to them that commemorate BVB. If I was down south I would try to do that, but I'm rarely down that way anymore.
Maybe that is wishful thinking, as the current crop of people doing new problems may never have met BVB. Sigh, time marches on. BVB will always be a name associated with Woodson.
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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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Jul 18, 2017 - 04:41am PT
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^^^ That's a really nice thought, Henny. I hope the same.
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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2017 - 08:32am PT
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not quite hard enough
Henny, my sandbag meter redlined when I read your post. Not that that's unusual. Hmm guess I will have to pay the HBC a visit. I've seen it some years ago and remember it looking Quite Hard Enough. Perhaps when it cools down.. the thought of downtown Riverside in July is bleak.
I'm pretty sure crack wizard Paul Parker has bouldered it too?
Awesome shots Jon. That's an easy one for you but it sure is beautiful. The snaps really capture the steepness and elegance of it.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 18, 2017 - 06:36pm PT
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the thought of downtown Riverside in July is bleak
Yeap, fact. Pretty miserable when it's hot.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jul 23, 2017 - 08:15pm PT
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Good day on the hill with Hubbard digging out some freshies.
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Jul 24, 2017 - 09:37am PT
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glad to see this thread resurrected
lol at saying hardy boy is too short and easy compared to woodson cracks
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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2017 - 10:03am PT
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That's a nice angle on Jaws, and some sweet-looking finds Contractor.
Is it just me or does Woodson and Josh season always seem to end too soon? I find myself sweating and gasping up the hill, searching for shade, scrambling for a few more climbs as the summer heat descends.
Here was a fun one from a few weekends ago. John and Chaz scored finding this beauty. If it had been discovered in the 1980s it would be enshrined as a must-do Woodson classic, but as it is I don’t think it gets climbed that often. Shame – it's really cool.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Jul 24, 2017 - 04:36pm PT
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^^^It doesn't get climbed that often because it's really friggin' hard.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jul 24, 2017 - 06:36pm PT
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That does look hard and classic! That forest continues to give up her bounty for those willing to suffer.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jul 29, 2017 - 03:09pm PT
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Yet another new (old) crack on the hill.
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adenparker
climber
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Jul 30, 2017 - 09:57am PT
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Good lookin stuff Contractor, but this is the real gem of the hill ;-) haha!
Some more stuff
Not the best photo of it, but a very nice looking face climb.
AJ, I got on that climb once..felt impossible. Nice job!!
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theAntiPaul
Ice climber
Niwot
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Aug 24, 2017 - 09:16pm PT
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Sad to hear of BVB's passing, missed opportunities, would have loved to have sat down and had a beer back in the day.
This one's for you,
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theAntiPaul
Ice climber
Niwot
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Aug 29, 2017 - 11:31am PT
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I doubt it's the same route, that photo is about 35years old and has nothing to do with the routes in that link, we're lower down the hill.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Aug 31, 2017 - 05:43pm PT
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^^^^It IS the same one. The description matches perfectly.
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adenparker
climber
Encinitas, CA
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Oct 31, 2017 - 07:07am PT
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Sending temps are here! Couple of photos from the other day.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Oct 31, 2017 - 09:38am PT
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^^^^Looks a bit like Slap You Silly. Nice! Where is this?
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adenparker
climber
Encinitas, CA
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Haha. Not so obscure location wise, but doesn't get climbed often. It's in the jaws area, on one of the boulders behind Baby Robbins.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Gonna have to find it Aden! Especially now, that general area is one of my favorites.
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adenparker
climber
Encinitas, CA
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Great day checking out some of the newer stuff at South Woodson. Can't wait to run around this hillside some more. Thanks to everyone who put in the hours to make it such an amazing spot!
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Karma Crack and down to the 67 is the Rockhaven area.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Nov 10, 2017 - 05:11pm PT
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A pleasant day at Woodson banging off the rust after flying in from the east coast.
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Friend
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2017 - 08:37pm PT
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Sweet video Mike. Damn those old B1s are hard!
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loaf
Trad climber
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Anyone know what we are calling this rock?
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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I've seen that, is it east of Sherwood Forest?
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adenparker
climber
Encinitas, CA
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Dec 10, 2017 - 11:33am PT
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Great day on the hill. Dry winds made everything nice and tacky.
Hardest mantle at Woodson? This thing is ridiculous!
Not Woodson..but this might be the only place people are psyched on these!
First ascent of ‘The Mr. Pants Mantle’ (V4)
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Hubbard
climber
San Diego
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Dec 10, 2017 - 05:31pm PT
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Hey friend, classic rock crash pad on Raven's Choice. :>)
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Dec 30, 2017 - 07:31pm PT
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Clarification, on the little slab next to morrocan menace, the righthand line is KP's demise, the lefthand line is slap & tickle
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Aden, the pic captioned "good slabs" we used to call the 5.11 traverse. Traverse low holds left to right then go up at the little scar. Standing at the scar, turn around and you will see a short diagonal seam. Thats "rough boys" V4 (Allenby). Horvath also did a circuit of the 5.11 traverse boulder, after climbing up at the end of the traverse continue around the boulder, passing an awkward nose over good exposure. I didnt do it, i think he called it v2-
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Friend, those old B1's are supposed to be hard! lol, glad to see they are still holding up :)
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| Messages 1 - 177 of total 177 in this topic |
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Nothing to fear 10a (downhill from missing link)
Let us know!