Discussion Topic |
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 1, 2017 - 10:03am PT
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Happy New Year folks, and for our substantial geezer population, here's a celebration of keeping on keeping on.
https://vimeo.com/197621404
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Nice, thanks for posting.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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thx rgold! Dig it!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I aspire to be one of those guys, but I have a long ways to go!
Brilliant!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Life-affirming, wonder-ful....
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Terrific video, Rich! Reminds me a little of the one of Fred Arschenbault doing 20 pull-ups in New Hampshire at 89. Maybe you and Donini can be featured in one in a few years!
;>)
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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^^^
Awesome!
I liked the spots in the vid too!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Thanks brother rgold!
Not pulling down hard enough, or often enough, but still pulling down.
All hail the geezers, the puppies will be there soon enough!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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You're never too old to learn the heel hook, jogill!
Thank you, RG!
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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You're never too old to learn the heel hook, jogill!
Jungle gymnastics. Always will be!
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Thanks for that one rgold
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Blondie is a phenomenon...
tfpu.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Sweet share. Thanks!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Why Knot?
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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I really enjoyed that. Their psyche is infectious!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2017 - 08:21pm PT
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This in the same vein, beautiful, far more bittersweet, with the love of climbing just as inspiring I think...
https://vimeo.com/195921976,
and of course there is a day with Fred in the Dolomites,
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Great, great stuff. It will be 40 years on the rock next year. I'm no great climber, but as long as I can, I'm on it.
Keep the faith, one and all.
Here's to many great pitches this year!
BAd
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2017 - 09:18pm PT
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My 60th climbing anniversary is this July. I climb with a similarly superannuated group of old-timers at a gym in Poughkeepsie (we don't have any 80 year-olds yet, but there are a few in our 70's). We've dubbed ourselves the Assisted Living Climbing Team, but have neither the T-shirts nor the living arrangements to justify the name.
I started out on the Grand Teton,
and if health and other imponderables allow it, I'm hoping to return to the Tetons this summer for a little celebration.
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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I climbed for thirty five years, but stopped owing to injuries. Now that I have time to reflect, I 've discovered there is more to life than climbing, skiing, mountain biking, etc. It is nice to stop, and smell the roses.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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I think I did the OS in 1956. Long, long ago.
Keep at it and good luck!
(I too quit about 2008)
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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Wow, rgold, inspirational!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2017 - 10:36pm PT
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I think I did the OS in 1956. Long, long ago.
8/18/1956, to be exact...
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Rgold,
Great video. Those guys are AWSOME! To be climbing at that age you have to learn to exercise/climb smart and avoid injuries. Genetics helps too. Some people are genetically predisposed to arthritis and/or other joint injuries and just can't do that kind of stuff.
Did you ever see Dick Emerson's name in the Grand summit register? He was a climbing ranger in the Tetons in the 50's and the father of a good friend of mine.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2017 - 09:17am PT
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Did you ever see Dick Emerson's name in the Grand summit register? He was a climbing ranger in the Tetons in the 50's and the father of a good friend of mine.
Sure, in fact I noticed it yesterday, I think from an ascent of the North Face, while looking for John's name. I interacted with Dick Emerson in his climbing ranger capacity, since BITD all climbers had to sign out for the climbs they were attempting.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Right on, Rgold. I hope to add another 20 yrs. to my climbing resume, so long as I'm still into it. Past results would tend to predict future returns in this area.
BAd
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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rgold,
Do you think you could post a copy of the scan with Dick's name on it? I'd love to have that. After their son Marc died in 1970, I stayed in close contact with the family. Dick and I did a bunch of climbing but I'm afraid I was a poor substitute for Marc.
Dick died in the late 80's and Pat just died last year. I talked to Pat just a few weeks before she died and she always fondly remembered the days in the Tetons when Dick was a ranger there. She told stories of bears coming through the front door of their cabin while they piled out the back door, Jeremiah Johnson style.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2017 - 01:13pm PT
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I think I could find that pretty quickly. I'll just email you the shot. Do you want DE's name outlined in red they way I did with John or just the plain shot?
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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I knew Dick Emerson in the 1950s and really liked him. I believe he was a PhD in biology or botany? I always associate his name with the Emerson Crack on the north face of Teewinot, which I thought was a pretty neat pitch! I use to sign out with him, also. Did some bouldering with him as well. We may have done a climb or two together, but my memory is fuzzy. John Fonda, Dick Emerson, Pete Sinclair, . . . All of them great guys.
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Just a plain shot, thanks. That means a lot.
Dick had a PhD in sociology and was a professor at the University of Washington. He was truly one of the nicest persons I've ever met and had some great stories growing up in Mormon Utah. He and his family lived just down the street from where I grew up. He was on the Everest expedition in 1963 and his climbing flame burned bright. He and Tom Hornbein did some great first ascents in the North Cascades.
After his son died, he pretty much lost his spark. Same for Pat, too. She had a very difficult time talking about Marc. I just talked to Leslie Emerson, their daughter, for the first time in 45 years when Pat died last year. I have a picture of Dick that I'll post when I find it.
Here's Dick on the South Face of the Early Winter Spire on a first ascent attempt in the early 70's.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jody's father is Jim Langford, Rich. John Fonda died in an accident at the dam on Jackson Lake sometime in the early 1960s I think.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2017 - 02:50pm PT
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Oh right; my bad.
He was on skis and broke through the ice.
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Thanks. I just sent it off to Leslie Emerson.
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Peater
Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
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Great post.
I can't say I recognize the climbers but I thought I saw one instinctively testing a plastic hold during the video. That said it all for me.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Working on it...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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A toast to those who continue climbing late into life, still enjoying the act and the camaraderie.
Also to those who continue to add thoughtful and enjoyable content to SuperTopo.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Thanks, Rich, for the marvelous posts. The fiftieth anniversary of my first roped climb is this coming August, so I'm about a decade behind you. I therefore I must have at least ten years left, correct?
And I agree with 10b4me there's more to life than climbing, but climbing sure makes my life more wonderful. The fire may have gotten cooler decades ago, but the joy never left. Yesterday I went climbing with my son-in-law, and my daughters often join us, too. Now my daughters are hoping my grandchildren will get to climb with me. That's pretty hard to beat.
Thanks again, Rich, for starting this thread and the posts you shared here.
John
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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What's that second video, Rich? It comes up "Forbidden"
Sanders is still in the "youth" of old age, but I am impressed.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2017 - 08:27pm PT
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Fixed it I hope, John.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Thanks Rich, having the gym claim us old farts is far better than the golf course.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Thanks for posting this Rich. Last Saturday our local paper The Hampshire Gazette (Northampton, MA) had a photo of Ed Daniels--91 years young (turns 92 in March) climbing in our local gym. His belayer--the 'kid' at 80, was our former Congressman John Olver, so our local cadre of 70-somethings have our hometown role models.
I'm at a mere 53 years in the sport, but still pretty dedicated. Maybe we can meet up this summer for your Teton anniversary--or maybe more fitting--how about a trip to our old stomping grounds at Devil's Lake!!!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2017 - 08:22am PT
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Hey Alan, I'll keep you informed about my Teton plans. At the moment I have no partners who are certain they can make it.
For me, Devil's Lake came after climbing in the Tetons and Colorado Rockies, rock-climbing after mountain scrambling, and even though I wandered through and thoroughly enjoyed all the subgenres of the sport, it has always been the siren song of the back country that somehow kept the show going for me, even for long periods when circumstances kept me away from actual wilderness trips.
So the Tetons it is, if my general health and out-of-warrantee body parts hold up in the next half-year...
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OldEric
Trad climber
Westboro, MA
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Maybe I'll see you all out in the Tetons this summer. I've got an anniversary there too - it was August of 67 when I first did the upper Exum. Hoping fora 50 year repeat. Seems possible since I did the N. Face (dragged by my son) last summer.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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"Leben bedeutet Zeit. Mit knapp 83 Jahren kann ich sagen, dass diese nicht annähernd ausreicht, um alles zu erleben. Jede Entdeckung weckt Neugier auf Neues. Die eigenen Wege als glückliche Chance zu begreifen, ist eine Lebensaufgabe. Jeder Mensch, der einen begleitet oder einem auch nur begegnet, bietet die Möglichkeit zur inneren Bereicherung. Für meine persönlichen Wege und Weggefährten bin ich unendlich dankbar."
Hermann Huber, August 2013
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Marlow--or someone else fluent in German--could you please translate the quote that you posted for those of us who are inadequate in that department. I 'get' a bit of it but not enough to understand the full quote. Thanks.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Alan.
Here is an alternative:
Living means time. Being close to 83 years, I can say that this is not nearly enough to have experienced everything. Every discovery causes curiosity for new discoveries. To understand your own journey as a lucky chance is a life-task. Every person who have or who encounter this chance is offered the possibility of a richer inner life. I am forever grateful for my own journeys and companions...
Everybody skilled in German is free to add or change...
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Thanks Marlow--that is really a great saying and philosophy.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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I love this thread. :)
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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I love this thread. :)
me too and big respect and cheers to rgold..
you started climbing the year I was born!
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Actually, if your body behaves, you can taper off gradually through your 70s and 80s, still getting out on the rock. Recall that clip of Fred Beckey stopping in the middle of a pitch and taking a short nap in the warm sunlight?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2017 - 09:39pm PT
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Octagenarian belay calls:
"Ready to nap?"
"Napping!"
"Nap on!"
Octagenarian rope signals:
1 jerk: Sorry, I dozed off.
2 jerks: Wake up dummy!
3 jerks: I was trying to nap y'know!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2017 - 10:25am PT
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Maybe we need to rethink some of the "old" labels...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Awesome!
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John in Bishop
climber
United States
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Jan 19, 2017 - 01:00pm PT
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Thanks for the post rgold. At our age, we need the little nudges.
The other day at the Crag, I was called a lifer; it made my day.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Jan 19, 2017 - 07:01pm PT
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That WAS awesome!
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The Frog
Trad climber
West Allis WI
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Jan 20, 2017 - 07:49pm PT
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This year my wife and I decided to do 100 outdoor climbs. (She's 65, I'm 72 & started climbing when most climbers still used pitons for pro.) We climbed in 13 different locations, from Upstate New York (Moss Island) to California (Joshua Tree), Seneca Rocks to Devil's Tower, and did 102 pitches all totaled. Most of the climbs were one pitch and pretty mellow-I did do one pitch of 10A at Devil's Lake, but the rest were 8's and under. About 1/4 were leads, a fairly even mix of trad and sport-sport routes have been one thing that's let me continue leading; I don't have to build an engineering route for pro while hanging from a couple of fingers. And we even discovered a new and beautiful climbing area in Pennsylvania, Shaffer Rocks, just a couple of miles off the Appalachian Trail, in the middle of a wonderful forest and quite a ways off the beaten path.
An interesting side note-one of my younger climbing buddies, when told of our 100 climb goal, said, "Cool-10 climbs a day, 10 days." We did have to explain to him that we weren't 29 anymore. Another buddy, much closer to our age, said, "Great-a climb a day for 100 days." We were somewhere in between.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2017 - 08:17pm PT
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Well done Froggie!
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Meraki
Boulder climber
USA
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Jan 21, 2017 - 04:08pm PT
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Recently I was looking for all sorts of climbing blogs, reading records of climbукы. I found something. Look here about the cost of such expeditions, to see the most famous mountains in the world.
It's really amazing. I am also interested in this topic!
Would you like to visit these mountains?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2017 - 07:53pm PT
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Here's exactly how I plan to do my Grand Teton ascent.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Not.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Jan 21, 2017 - 09:30pm PT
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If you have a version of that with a girl in a bikini, please post.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 22, 2017 - 05:18am PT
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I felt for the poor guy with the camera! Truly not, Teewinot!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2017 - 10:05am PT
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If you have a version of that with a girl in a bikini, please post.
Close enough?
[Click to View YouTube Video]
I'm planning on clothing more suited to my age, gender, and desire not to mar the view---Ms. Edwards is somewhat easier on the eyes.
Plus, I don't ski.
Plus, if I did ski, I'd probably need both hands fully occupied with ski poles.
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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Jan 23, 2017 - 03:58pm PT
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first thank you Survival. For all the. DEAD acation and nomination. For. Gezzerhood. The fact that after your eyesight and hearing head south then its your mussels being secondary to the Brain. And that is the good news considering the other factors. So the question at any. Age is why. And the answer remains the same. Its about the views. Happy birthday. Fred. Peace and love. And dry rock. ?
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Jan 23, 2017 - 04:05pm PT
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Weird
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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Jan 25, 2017 - 10:14am PT
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Ya. John. I. Know complain to someone who cares
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jan 25, 2017 - 11:57am PT
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Sitting home with a bad head cold, I finally watched that vid in the OP.
Fantastic!
My enthusiasm for climbing has never waned. I don't care what kind of climbing it is, I just like to get outside and climb. And when I can't get out, like over these past few weeks of constant rain, the gym provides some relief for the pent up desire to go up and up.
Climb forever, yes!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Jan 25, 2017 - 01:30pm PT
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complain to someone who cares
That's me, for one.
Hail to geezers and to puppies.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 25, 2017 - 04:22pm PT
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I did that to get out of my car today... After bouldering
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Jan 25, 2017 - 04:28pm PT
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Jaybro, you're the best. Hope someday we can climb together.....:)
Where are you in February/March? CA ?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 25, 2017 - 06:44pm PT
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Moab, Lynne. Come on out! You have your choice of two different coaches with your name on them!r
We can climb a tower!
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jan 25, 2017 - 09:30pm PT
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In 1986 I had dinner in northern Italy with Ricardo Cassin. He was quite up there in years and told me how his wife complained about his leg lifts as he lay in bed alongside her. He always trained.
I am, in essence, an old man now. I often deny it. For example, people say my hair is gray. But when I look in the mirror I see blonde. Bob Culp who lives still in Boulder, is ten years my senior and continues to guide and climb.... I love that e.e. cummings poem: "above all you shall be young and glad, for if you are young whatever life you wear it will become you, and if you are glad whatever's living will yourself become." Pretty much describes some of my friends on this thread, Rich, John....
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Jan 25, 2017 - 09:52pm PT
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Welcome back, Pat.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2017 - 05:27am PT
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Hope all is well Pat!
As for becoming an old man, we might console ourselves with the observation that it is a privilege not granted to everyone...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Jan 26, 2017 - 10:18am PT
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Jaybro, would that be coaches or couches? :) I need both.
And you may climb the tower, I will follow.....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 26, 2017 - 11:39am PT
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I think that was autocorrect...
For the record,
A futon and a divan😎
And I can round up helpful, insightful, if sometimes critical, friends!
A future photo of Lynnie in the new year!
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Bill Noble
climber
Golden BC
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Jan 27, 2017 - 08:56am PT
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Check out the 49 minute film "Sheer Sport" on the National Film Board of Canada website. The eight minute mark is noteworthy as it leads into a brief segment featuring the silver haired John Brett and Fritz Wiessner climbing together in 1968.
During the mid 70's in Vancouver B.C. you could get any 16mm film you wanted at the National Film Board office downtown and take it home for two days. With a library card and driver's license you could get a 16mm projector (free) at the local Douglas College. On rainy days I'd sit in my apartment watching this one on the wall over and over again.
Classic NFB. I think you'll find it highly entertaining. [url="https://www.nfb.ca/film/sheer_sport/"]
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Not really full pullups but impressive, nonetheless. jgill, we need another video of you cranking pullups.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Aug 22, 2017 - 11:17am PT
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Missed this thread until now. Great content!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 22, 2017 - 12:04pm PT
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I'll climb for as long as I have the verbal and mental acuity to make my partner understand and abide by the one climbing command I still remember...."Up rope, I'm not moving!"
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 22, 2017 - 12:07pm PT
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Missed this... Thanks for posting.
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Aug 22, 2017 - 01:17pm PT
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climbing is only one aspect of life. As life is short, I try and experience as many things as possible.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Aug 22, 2017 - 02:45pm PT
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^^^ FWIW there is life after climbing.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 22, 2017 - 03:21pm PT
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"Up rope, I'm not moving!"
I made this as big poster and place above my bad. As preparation and acceptance to be old
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2017 - 04:29pm PT
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Three septuagenarians, New Fork Canyon, Wind Rivers.
Myself the bouncing baby boy at 73, Wind River Guidebook author Joe Kelsey, and Dick Dumais. Not sure of the exact number, but more than 150 years of widely and deeply travelled climbing experience between us.
I had a great trip to the Tetons and will post some pics in the fullness of time, but hangin' the these home-geezers---all of us with roots going back to the Gunks in the 1960's---was definitely a highlight.
Some Teton scenery Teasers:
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 22, 2017 - 04:41pm PT
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Good on you Rich. I know it's no trouble to get Joe into the Winds, but getting Dick away from the golf course....now that's saying something!
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Aug 23, 2017 - 06:47am PT
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One of my partners revealed this New Years resolution, "don't moan when you get up, sit down or bend over". It's hard not to moan these days.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 23, 2017 - 06:54am PT
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Ah......the benefit of aging partners tying in together. When one moans the other doesn't hear him.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 23, 2017 - 07:03am PT
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Staggering ever up ward !
Upward & Onward that is the light of grand visions
reflected in the teary eyes of old goats,
Who still get a tingly feeling from the sound and smell of a good trundle. . .
Congrats professor !
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Aug 23, 2017 - 08:39am PT
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Looks like an awesome crew!
Looking forward to the pics and seeing all the wonderful smiles. :)
What an adventure!!!1111!
Cheers
LS
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 23, 2017 - 10:01am PT
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I'm 85 in December. Was actively still guiding through 2015. Took a year off for cardio rehab. Should be back at guiding next month. When Kelsey gets back from the Winds we might do a little climbing in the Alabama Hills - nothing harder than 5.7 for me. Old age is a pain.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Aug 23, 2017 - 02:33pm PT
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IMO Mr. Lauria wins the prize on this thread. Way to go, Senior Citizen!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Aug 23, 2017 - 02:59pm PT
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They're certainly not the hardest, probably not the highest quality, but the the new routes i' m putting up in my 60's are the most enjoyable.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 23, 2017 - 08:58pm PT
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It sure looks like those dudes have a special relationship and know how to have fun. Kind of sobering though...three of them are younger than me.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 24, 2017 - 02:23pm PT
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I stopped climbing for 4 years and recently started up again.
Has anybody ever soloed a virgin wall in their sixties?
Might be an interesting goal,...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 24, 2017 - 04:12pm PT
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In your 60's soloing a virgin wall might be an easier task than soiling a virgin.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 25, 2017 - 12:15pm PT
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The only guys that want to soil virgins can't handle the competition.
My limited experience in that regard was,... disappointing.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 25, 2017 - 03:54pm PT
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In the words of my good friend, Dave Huntsman, "I'd just lie down next to her and cry!"
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2017 - 02:54pm PT
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Geezers score again, a 50th anniversary ascent. The HS grade seems to span 5.6 to 5.7 depending on the seriousness of the lead. (Fifty years ago is ten years before the advent of cams, so the seriousness may have declined since then.)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Oct 29, 2017 - 09:18pm PT
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Nice video, but Lauria's more impressive with fifteen more years under his belt.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Oct 29, 2017 - 09:28pm PT
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Did 1300' of 5.9 rope soloing yesterday at 65 - kind of sore today.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2017 - 10:09pm PT
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Nice video, but Lauria's more impressive with fifteen more years under his belt.
For sure, and then there is always Beckey*. Even I have 7 more years under my belt and am still regularly managing harder that HS on the sharp end. But I wasn't trying to promote comparing and ranking. I was just hoping to celebrate the various ways we have found to engage in the sport we love as the indignities of age force accommodations. At this point, I'm more interested in the spirit of being out on the rocks or in the mountains, and the ways we find to keep that spirit not only alive, but even newly vibrant.
I was just out on Friday with the best climbing partner I've ever had, John Bragg. Here's the view from a belay ledge on a lovely climb of no particular significance. At moments like this, it doesn't matter how old we are, or what we can or can't do as well as we used to, or who our age is climbing harder, or who is older than us and still at it. The day speaks for itself, and I think John and I both sensed how lucky we are, after so many years, to be up here yet again in the sunlight.
Lucky again when the sun sets beautifully on yet another but now-precious day on the hill.
--------------------------------------------------------
*Postscript: Fred died the day after this post, at the age of 94, with an 80 year climbing career behind him. For years, the United States portion of the Climbs and Expeditions section of the American Alpine Journal might just as well have been titled, "My excellent summer vacation by Fred Beckey." He was prolific, he was ubiquitous, and he spanned the generations. There will never be another like him, and in the context of this thread on aging, his eighty years of climbing will be a monumental threshold for a long time to come.
May the road rise up to meet you.
May the wind always be at your back.
May the sun shine warm upon your face,
and rains fall soft upon your fields.
And until we meet again,
May God hold you in the palm of His hand.
RIP Fred
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 30, 2017 - 09:10am PT
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"The toothless old tykes of tomorrow were the tigers of yesterday" Tom Patey
Bonnie Prudden well into her ninties still wanted to get back at it in the Gunks when I had the exquisite pleasure of interviewing her several years ago before she passed. Due to a life devoted to fitness she was still powerful as a chimp when I got my first hug from her and certainly capable of pulling down.
Though she did sigh and pronounce "Climbing is a jealous sport. If you don't keep doing it, you get sloppy" when I asked her why she stopped. Absolutely amazing woman and climber.
Great thread Rich!
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Oct 30, 2017 - 01:41pm PT
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At moments like this, it doesn't matter how old we are, or what we can or can't do as well as we used to, or who our age is climbing harder, or who is older than us and still at it. The day speaks for itself, and I think John and I both sensed how lucky we are, after so many years, to be up here yet again in the sunlight.
<3
Moments like this are why I keep trying, in spite of injuries and non-climbing life factors. It's heartening to hear, and encouraging to keep trying the steep way up...
Thanks for sharing!
Cheers
LS
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whoops
climber
paradise, ca
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Oct 30, 2017 - 02:10pm PT
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I climbed in a place called the Mile End Gym while working in London. Met a guy that was 83 years old and still climbing twice a week. If you tried to talk about anything but climbing he would stop you and say "this is my climbing time". I'm 68 and when I grow up I want to be just like that guy or my 73 year old climbing buddy John Robinson. I breathe when I'm away from climbing but I finally catch my breath when I'm standing at the bottom of some wall. Those of you that have a real passion for something, anything, will understand what I mean.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Oct 30, 2017 - 11:23pm PT
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Climb forever? Thought Fred might, but time caught up with him. Love ya, Fred.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 31, 2017 - 10:41am PT
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rgold..... thanks for the post and the pics...
Fred was so amazing, he was able to keep going and going and going...
when I get old I wish to be like Fred....
heck when I was 23 I wanted to be like Fred.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Nov 10, 2017 - 05:04pm PT
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^^^^ Keep this in mind when talking about climbing forever. These performers at one time were on Dancing With the Stars.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 10, 2017 - 06:42pm PT
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^^^^^^^
Is that Tarbuster in the back left corner of that Dance Company?
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 10, 2017 - 06:56pm PT
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That footage of the 19 month old boy, if genuine is indicative of reincarnation. This little tyke looks like a reincarnated climber. Could be Chuck Pratt, John Bachar, Bob Kamps, or any number of people who were more or less well known climbers. In that sense, yes you can climb, if not forever, at least over a period of a few lifetimes. A person who dies young but really loves climbing is more apt to come back sooner. I was impressed with the deliberate, controlled way he moved up the wall. Like he was crawling, but in a vertical direction.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2017 - 09:11am PT
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Bump for Marcel Remy. If you compare the Miroir d’Argentière ascent to the Fred Beckey Dolomite video, I think you'd conclude that at 94, Marcel may well have been ahead of even the great Beckey, an outlier among the outliers...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Still trying to keep it going. First ascent of a sweet little peak in Patagonia over Super Bowl weekend.
5.9+ R with an “interesting” approach. Seven hours in and out and a thirteen hour summit day...resting these old bones today AND maybe even tomorrow,
Kudos to Marcel! The truth is Fred wasn't climbing the last few years although he certainly wanted to.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Too bad we age at different rates. It would be great to be like these guys.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
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ah, way to go Jim. Wish I would have been there with you. Maybe you would have had to take the crux lead from me after I backed down like that time you bailed me out in The Black Canyon.
Arne
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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The climbers in the video Rich posted are both from western Mass. The climber is Ed Daniels, a long time stalwart of the Berkshire AMC climbing group, who turns 93 next month. His youthful belayer is our retired Congressman, John Olver, a mere 82 or so. Both get to the gym at least one morning a week, and still also climb outside during the warmer weather--true inspirations.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 30, 2018 - 06:27pm PT
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Inspiring & thank you for stopping me from embarrassing myself.
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