My Friend, Vern Stiefel

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Mike Morley

climber
Nederland, CO
Dec 12, 2006 - 07:11pm PT
I think we are all shocked and deeply saddened by what has taken place. I compiled this short slideshow of some of Vern's climbing exploits that I thought might help folks remember him in the environment he loved most. He was a unique and talented individual and will be very much missed by all who knew him.
Slider_up

Ice climber
Irvine, CA
Dec 12, 2006 - 10:25pm PT
I had the unfortunate experience of just hearing this news from a friend in Washington about an hour ago.

Most of you on here don't know me as I have been away from the climbing scene last few years doing. . .other stuff. But Vern and I are what I consider to be good friends. I started climbing with him about 10 years ago when I was in college and he was a professor at Pacific Lutheran University. Since he left California my communication with him has been limited to phone calls every few months.

Back in the day, I learned a ton about climbing technique from him and also cardio endurance training; the guy was a phenomenal athlete no doubt. He was someone I looked up to deeply. At the same time, he was at times an overly intense guy that drove me nuts. His level of intellect made him the way he was; he absolutely detested bullshit and would openly call bullshit when he saw it. I respected that. It was one of the reasons I chose to be friends with him. Alot of my friends struggled with his level of intensity. I embraced it as goal oriented and enlightening.

If it wasn't raining I could always count on him storming in to my house at 5 AM on a Saturday and proudly announce that we were heading to Index for some "Killer crack climbing J-Boy!"

When he first moved to WA from Boulder he had only been climbing a short time but was already an outstanding climber. At the time he wasn't a very experienced trad climber at all and would borrow my rack until he got his own. This is funny to me because although I was the more experienced climber then, he was by far much better than I. At that time he didn't know much about setting gear/anchors. Most of his experience had been bolted sport routes. Once he got a #3 Camalot nearly permanently stuck on I believe "Sagatarius" at Index. He lauged. I didn't because the cam was mine and he pounded the sh#t out of it with a big wall hammer while removing it.

I owe a big thanks to Vern for teaching me how to be intense. He taught me alot about how to train hard and pursue goals.

Vern, you were a pain in the ass but I loved ya for it. I'm sorry for Tara and your kids that you made this decision. I really wish you would have really told me what was on your mind that last time we spoke.

I guess we'll never get to make that jump together we talked about afterall.

. . . .I am certain that our paths will cross again one these days.

RIP brother.

Your pal,

JP
ent

climber
Dec 12, 2006 - 11:27pm PT
Vern-intense? Indeed!
Again, not a climber, only have endurance, but just heard that we (grad student, Vern, myself, another professor) just won presentation competition at our national meeting. Vern, I miss sharing this small joyous occasion with you.
Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
Dec 12, 2006 - 11:58pm PT
My dear friend AJ Burch (otherwise known as The Mighty Thor) had told me numerous times about his psyched friend Vern, who now lived in Oregon. One of my favorite workouts is to hike up to Midnight Rock in Leavenworth, WA and solo-toprope ROTC, and often Steven's Pass Motel and/or Spellbound. I almost never see other climbers up there, I guess the hideous hike keeps out the riff-raff. So a couple years ago I hike up there and to my surprise hear voices. I continue the hike to the top (hideous, like I said) and set up my raps. First is off a giant tree at the summit (I maintain ropes on this every year) to chains at the top of ROTC. To my further suprise, I hear someone below me leading ROTC. I peek over to make sure, and wait. Shortly an incredibly psyched climber shows up to announce that he has onsighted the route. Freaking cool! I congratulate him and chat a bit, he figures out that I am AJ's friend who lives in East Wenatchee. No way! Climbing is so great that way, you run into people in the most crazy places. That was so fun, I'm so sad to hear that he is no longer with us. That last photo posted was taken at Midnight Rock, I'm pretty sure the same day I'm talking about. It sure seems like there have been a lot of climber's who have taken there own lives. How dismal and ironic, I wonder why this would be? I have some theories, but I just realized that they are not appropriate here. This is simply a terrible tragedy, my heartfelt condolences to all.
Slider_up

Ice climber
Irvine, CA
Dec 13, 2006 - 12:25am PT
Yeah the suicide thing really sucks. It is a problem in other adrenaline sports. I am into parachutes and needless to say there have been some suicides in the BASE and Skydiving communities. For me it's very difficult to understand.

I remember when I did my first BASE jump Vern was one of the first people I called. I knew with his overwhelming enthusiasm for these things he would no doubt be interested in hearing about my experience.

His response: "Be careful J-Boy cause the old man still has a thing or two to teach you on the rock!"

Vern was always so careful, even when he was pushing hard. He was never reckless; he was very good at calculating what he felt was an acceptable amount of risk.

I'm still just shocked about this whole thing.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Dec 13, 2006 - 01:07am PT
A Memorial ceremony is going to be held on Sunday, December 17, 2006 at 2:00 pm in Joshua Tree National Park to remember our friend and celebrate his life. Park at the Oyster Bar parking lot and meet at Target Rock (a 5 minute walk).

Bring your favorite Vern story and perhaps a cold micro-brew.


A gathering with food and drink will follow at the Joshua Tree Community Center located at 6171 Sunburst Avenue, Joshua Tree (Six blocks east of Park Blvd along Hwy 62, then turn north on Sunburst). Here is a link to a map showing the location of the Community Center:

http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?address=6171%20Sunburst%20St&city=Joshua%20Tree&state=CA&zipcode=92252%2d2147&country=US&title=6171%20Sunburst%20St%20Joshua%20Tree%2c%20CA%2092252%2d2147%2c%20US&cid=lfmaplink2

Please feel free to email me with question/ideas.


Megan McKenzie

climber
Dec 13, 2006 - 01:33am PT
Thank you to all who've posted a reply. Vern was my friend. We taught together this fall. I suspected he was considering this but I didn't call him on it. He has been in so much pain, so hard on himself for being human. We talked about spirit the last time we were together. I tried to express that beliefs are about what we do not feel, and so they aren't important. That having open hearts connects us all. He loved Smith Rocks, and I so hope that he felt connected with its beauty during his final moments. And I am grateful that his pain is over. I'm so sad, and so sorry...
Megan
quasitrad

Trad climber
Corvallis, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2006 - 02:20am PT
Megan, I know your pain. When I told Tara that I saw some warning signs and regretted not intervening she said, "yeah, you and about 30 other people". I also saw Vern receeding and thought it was odd and wondered about it but figured he just needed some space to figure things out. I thought, well he's just dropping out of Corvallis and planning on moving back to the LA area. He told me he was thinking about leaving at the end of the term in December. I thought he meant leaving Corvallis not checking out.

At one point I told him that I hoped that he wouldn't do anything stupid and he asked me what I meant. I told him that I was worried about him being careless with his climbing and he shrugged his shoulders.

Bottom line, I didn't think he was that desperate. I could imagine him underprotecting a climb but I didn't consider he would take his life like that. I can't help second-guessing my own motivations for not seeking him out. Murf touched a nerve when he said that he wished he had been here to help when I was here and I didn't help. To some degree I think we all feel like we could have done more and we should have done more. Ultimately though, it was Vern's choice.
air

Social climber
Australia
Dec 13, 2006 - 02:39am PT
To Vern's friends and family, our deepest condolences. I do not know Vern personally, but his sister Patty is a very dear friend. She sent us this website to view in honor of her Brother. We have read all your stories and are very sad we never met him. I just wanted to send our love and support from Australia/ Saipan to all of you who have clearly lost a dear friend, peer, mentor, Brother.
A sad reminder to keep our hearts open and listening like ears for all those we cherish, even though, as the previous post said, the ultimate decision lies within. Sending Love and Support
Jane and Glenn, Queensland, Australia.
Hangerlessbolt

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Dec 13, 2006 - 03:39am PT
A few years ago, I was going through something similar.

I’d spent a considerable amount of time pushing people away from me; though, at the time I hadn’t consciously realized what I was doing.

I started taking sleeping pills and so began my journey.

I’d get off of work, go home, pop pills, and pass out until I had to be at work the next day.

A few people made mention of a noticeable shift in my demeanor, but I shrugged it off.

I stopped climbing, stopped hanging out with friends…I knew I was manic depressive, but I’d always been able to ‘deal’ with it.

A four-day weekend rolled around and I began my ritual…pop pills, wake up, pop more pills…until I had to be at work.

During one of my ‘pseudo-awake’ moments…I thought to myself, “Why not just finish the bottle? No one would even know…no one would even care.”

I’d always had suicidal thoughts, but this was the first time I had put myself in a position of following through with it.

For whatever reason, I opted to not…and as soon as I was conscious enough to do so, I called my doctor. I told him, “If I don’t get help now…I’m going to kill myself.”

Long story short and a sh#t-load of therapy later…I got better.

In my mind, I was all alone…total tunnel vision. In reality, there were a ton of people who would have been absolutely devastated.

I hope wherever he's gone that his trip was safe and that he's at peace.

-RB
peggy

climber
Boulder, CO
Dec 13, 2006 - 11:00am PT
My name is Peggy. I am Vern's younger sister. Although I am deeply saddened at this time, it brings me joy to read this forum and to know that Vern impacted so many lives in such a positive way. He was an amazing big brother - always encouraging me to eat healthy food, get on my bike and above all enjoy and respect nature. I have fond memories of hiking with him and discovering bugs - he would pick them up, examine closely and then describe to me the unique attributes of each one. As a child growing up he gave each of our three dogs a crazy nickname (something it appears he did with many of you). Spirited and intense he was, kind and thoughtful in so many ways.

It was Vern's wish to have his body donated to science - our family has agreed to donate it to the Oregon Heath and Science University in Portland. We also plan to have a private ceremony In J Tree to celebrate his life.

We thank everyone for their thoughts and kind words.

Rest in peace Vern, we love you.
holdenhh

climber
Dec 13, 2006 - 12:51pm PT
I'm sorry to see Vern go. He a very close friend, mentor, confidant, and inspiration. Whenever we were together no matter what my mood, I always ended in a good one. We had so many great climbing stories together in different places that I cannot recount them all. ...identifying insects, or getting lost in the dark (as all climbing days ended in the dark), pealing potato chips off new climbs, hiking forever to get to a location, he Tara and Quin stopping by for homebrews in the evenings, pulling 40 routes in a night (almost every gym night), many many meals at Crossroads.
He had an amazing zest for giving 110% and a passion that wouldn't quit. Clinging desperately to any climb, the bolder the better, was his forte. So many times I would be cringing watching him methodically and calmly working his way through some crazy crux section. I miss him just talking about all this and wish that I had done more to help him. His smiling and laughing face will be with me always. Most of the Josh pictures on MtnProject-Josh of him were from me, but I've posted some additional pictures of him here:
http://www.h3.cc/index.php?d=main.php&gdir=061212Vern
ShirkeyBird

Mountain climber
Oregon
Dec 13, 2006 - 02:58pm PT
I've shared belays w/ vern at the gym and out a smith many times. He was frequently at the OSU gym wearing out partners and was always happy to share a ride w/ anybody regardless of their climbing ability.

He was a driven climber and accomplished more climbing that most of us ever will.

I am very sadden by this news...all the best to his family in this difficult time.

Paul
cby

Trad climber
Salina, KS
Dec 13, 2006 - 04:14pm PT
I first met Vern when I was in junior high in the mid-1980s. I was a beginning bike racer, and Vern worked in the local shop. I wonder if he ever spoke about the years he lived in central Kansas and what he did there? I haven't spoken with Vern for about 10 years, but that doesn't mean that he didn't have a significant impact on who I am and how I see the world. There weren't very many people in my hometown that listened to The Smiths REALLY loud and refused to drive a car. Calling the man unique doesn't even begin to describe him.

So I got to know Vern via bike racing. He never entered any of the races, but he was as competitive as they got. He always pushed himself and those around him as hard as he could, which as many of you know, was very hard. I remember all the weeknight training rides that the group would go on- how Vern would tear up all the local racers while riding his commuter bike with the pannier racks still on. Years after this we reconnected, and Vern got me started rock climbing. Our training ground was the side of Memorial Stadium at Kansas State University, where we toproped on the 2-story limestone exterior. This was in the early 1990s.

I'm not going to fill this thread w/ my Vern stories; I guess we all have ours. I'm looking forward to meeting some of you in J-Tree this weekend so we can trade tales. I know very little of what happened to him after he left Kansas.

He was different, that's for sure. And we loved him for it. I, too, wish I could have been there for him when he needed help. I wish I could give back some of what he's given me.

cby

Trad climber
Salina, KS
Dec 13, 2006 - 04:17pm PT
Ok, one quick story:

The last time I saw Vern was about 10 years ago. The first question I asked him was "So, what music are you listening to these days?"

He replied, "You know me, Chris....HIGH ENERGY MUSIC!!"

looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Dec 13, 2006 - 05:07pm PT
High energy music.... like Morrissey?

http://myspace.com/morrissey
quasitrad

Trad climber
Corvallis, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2006 - 05:13pm PT
Or how about Modest Mouse? He had me singing, "100 Miles Is A REALLY Long Way To Drive" (or somesuch) and I don't even like Modest Mouse. And he knew it!
BMPD

Sport climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 13, 2006 - 05:21pm PT
Vern was one of my best friends. We spent the last 3 years climbing together in the Gym at Oregon State University, and most of the climbing areas around Oregon. Vern is the only reason why I am climbing today. I met him probably the second time I went to the gym to try out climbing. Two days after we met, he took me outside to climb. After that day we climbed together 2-3 times a week for the last 3 years, except for this last fall term of school because I was no longer in Corvallis. He was a mix between a best friend and a big brother figure. He taught me things that I otherwise would have never learned in my life. We went on crazy adventures and had a lot of deep conversations. I wish he knew how much I appreciate all he has done for me. Vern I will always miss you
Slider_up

Ice climber
Irvine, CA
Dec 13, 2006 - 05:56pm PT
Yeah he also liked alot of good punk. Dead Kennedy's and Minor Threat to name a couple. He especially liked Bad Religion.

He would always get in my truck and immediately start looking through CD's in search of the loudest, most obnoxious sh#t he could find. After he found what he wanted he would absolutely crank it up and say "That's what I'm talking about J-Boy!"

I'm really gonna miss those times. . . .
flojo

climber
california
Dec 13, 2006 - 06:02pm PT
uncle expando will miss you. to his kids i will be always here for you, any time any place.
adios vern
Messages 21 - 40 of total 106 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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