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quasitrad
Trad climber
Corvallis, OR
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 11, 2006 - 12:42am PT
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For those of you who knew him but have not yet heard, Vern Stiefel was found dead on Saturday near Smith Rocks. It appears that he committed suicide.
Vern was a talented and enthusiastic traditional climber most recently from Corvallis, Oregon. Formerly, Vern was a mainstay at Joshua Tree where he put up a number of bold first ascents.
There is so much more to say about Vern as his friends well know. He was a character in every sense of the word. I value the time we spent conversing during the long drive to Smith from Corvallis. I value the climbs we did and the climbs we tried to do. I miss him already ...
Vern Stiefel pictures
12/12/2006
I've registered and am working on a website for Vern at:
http://vernstiefel.org
to provide current information and to save the wonderful memories you've shared. The website will be up on Wednesday, December 13th.
Also, we have established a memorial fund for Tara and Quinlan at:
Vern Stiefel Memorial Fund
c/o OSU Federal Credit Union
PO Box 306
Corvallis, OR 97339-0306
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Ouch!
climber
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Dec 11, 2006 - 12:49am PT
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I'm sorry about that. It's tough to lose a friend.
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Hangerlessbolt
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Dec 11, 2006 - 01:12am PT
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Oh MY GOD!!
Coming from SoCal... was just talking to a fellow 'transplant' about Vern...this is truly tragic!
I ran into him a while back at Smith...shared some quick stories...got some beta on the routes he'd been putting up in JT.
This really saddens me.
*FWIW: I know Vern had a lot of friends of on rc.com
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Louis
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Dec 11, 2006 - 08:42am PT
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More sadness. I too am sorry to hear of this.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 11, 2006 - 10:31am PT
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So sorry to hear this;.....Vern was one of the most motivated and talented climbers I have met......Very sad.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Dec 11, 2006 - 10:50am PT
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Terrible news...I didn't know Vern but it hits hard when a fellow climber opts out prematurely. My thoughts are now with his family and friends. May you have strength and celebrate his life, and fortitude to navigate through your loss.
-Jeff Lowe
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G_Gnome
Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
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Dec 11, 2006 - 11:16am PT
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Wow, I haven't spent a lot of time with Vern but I never would have guessed he would take this path. Peace Vern.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 11, 2006 - 11:21am PT
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This has been a terrible shock to Vern's many friends and in particular to his family.
Few had Vern's boundless positive energy and passion. I am honored to have been his friend and deeply dispirited by his death. This is a grievous loss.
Here are a few shots of Vern:
The Woodshed, Split Rocks
London Calling, Echo Rock
Rule Britania, Echo Rock
Powered By Old English, The Valley of Kings
The Dunce Cap, North Wonderland
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Dec 11, 2006 - 01:37pm PT
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Those are nice shots. Good to see.
This morning passes in stunned silence. I did not spend as much time with Vern as some here, but that which I did was always of the very highest quality.
I wish to express my most heartfelt condolences to his family and friends.
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pFranzen
Boulder climber
Portland, OR
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Dec 11, 2006 - 01:43pm PT
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Oh holy sh#t.
I met Vern for the first time this Fall (September, I think). He was a mentor to two of my climbing partners and taught them pretty much everything they know. I only spent a few hours with him at Smith Rock, then we all went and got some pizza down in Redmond. He struck me as a quiet but very thoughtful person; he didn't say much that night but it was great having him there.
Sh#t, I'm going to have to call Ryan and Brian to let them know about this...
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trapeze artemis
climber
Surf City
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Dec 11, 2006 - 02:04pm PT
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I am stunned and saddened by this news.
Vern was an inspiration to many of us who knew him and called him friend.
My user name here on Supertopo is a nickname Vern called me.
My condolences to Vern's family.
I'd like to share a story about a trip to the Needles that Vern and I took, I'll cherish these memories.
If you've never seen anyone fall from 20 feet above their last piece of protection it happens amazingly slowly and absolutely terrifying.
A 20 foot runout above a bolt will lead to a 40 foot fall and that's without factoring in rope stretch or slack in the system (for the newbies). For example 5 feet above a bolt means a 5 foot fall TO the bolt and an additional 5 feet PAST it. Get it....your pro is below you (5 ft) and you fall below IT(5 ft) which equals 10ft.
Vern cruised the crux section....steep and thin, real thin with hard technical moves. At this point he's past the 4th bolt and really high off the deck. He's on easier ground and the climbing has been reduced to 5.10+ moves on glacier polished slopers, the angle has eased up a lot too. "Art watch me my feet are really insecure" Vern slowly creeps upward one foothold at a time. He looks solid.....I quickly glance at the rope to check the slack in the system, too little and I could pull Vern off the rock......too much and well...that would be bad.....very bad at this point. Vern once again calls out "watch me" (he says this every time he moves) I'm watching him really closely, I'm a bit nervous because Vern's a really good face climber and he should be on easy ground at this point but he seems a bit stressed. We've been doing some runout 5.11 face climbs all weekend often having to pull the crux before reaching the first bolt and this is the first route Vern seems a little insecure on.
Vern lifts his left foot and does a cross over step to his right.
He begins to lift his right foot in order to high step onto a hold up and right.
Vern's left foot pops and he falls onto his side and starts sliding down the rock.
Time slows down.
I'm serious, I had the same thing happen when I took a 15 foot upside down fall on Illusion Dweller.
Time has slowed down. I look down and to my left and realize I can jump down about 4 feet, so I do it.
I land and begin hauling in slack as fast as I can.......Vern reaches the beginning of the vertical section.
Shit! It appears as though he's going to land on the ramp that parallels the base. I've got the rope locked off but am still holding slack in my left hand (there's a lot left) Vern flys into the air and swings back to the bolt line.
The rope comes taut in my left hand and I release it catching Vern with my right hand locked off around my ass. Vern ragdolls at the end of the rope and I slam forward into the face as I catch the fall.
Vern lives.
The damage......Vern scraped up his ass and bruised/bloodied his elbow.
I've got a minor rope burn on my left hand across the base of my middle and ring fingers from not releasing the slack end of the rope quickly enough.
But I caught the fall and Vern lived.
Afterwards I clean/toprope the route, the runout section has 5.10a/b moves on incredibly polished slopers.
As soon as you place your foot and weight it your toes start to slide off......it's like smearing on ice.
The same goes for your fingers......I find myself pinching crystals/pebbles in the face to stay on.
Huh.......welcome to Ice climbing in the Needles, next time we bring crampons.
I'll miss you Vern, Rest well.
Art Morimitsu
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Dec 11, 2006 - 02:05pm PT
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I never knew him but some friends of mine spoke well of him. Very sad. Why do so many of climbing's personalities choose to end things like this? I was just in J Tree this weekend and his name came up. He will be missed.
Levy
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Murf
climber
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Dec 11, 2006 - 02:34pm PT
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You needed many things to climb with Vern.
Boundless energy to keep up with him, as I have never seen him tired.
An ability to verbally parry and thrust, as he enjoyed rousing exchange.
A steady belay hand because, as Art's story points out, he could be fearless and pushed his talents as far as he could.
If you enjoyed esoteric movies, that didn't hurt either.
And it never hurt to have fresh batteries in your headlamp, 'cause it was likely you would need them. Climbing never ended until the sun went down, which meant you'd see darkness before the car.
I don't know what ultimately preceded this tragedy. While not the closest of Vern's many SoCal compatriot's, I know that I regret not being able to help him in his hour of need.
I wish I could have lent you my headlamp Vern, because it seems as if yours went out just long enough for you to get off trail.
You will be missed,
Murf
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Mike Morley
climber
San Luis Obispo
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Dec 11, 2006 - 03:20pm PT
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I am so sad and astonished to read this. Vern was truly as unique and genuine as they come. Brilliant, witty, and a gifted climber on top of all that. My heartfelt condolences go out to his wife Tara and their family.
Last of the Gohegans (5.11d), Joshua Tree
This was my last email from Vern, dated Mar 29, 2006.
-------------
Mike,
I assume you have checked out the beta for the routes Randy and I
established at Josh. Spirited Away is amazing!
Living in Corvallis is okay but too far from climbing. I like the
college atmosphere and enjoy interacting with many interesting people
but I really miss J-Tree. However, Corvallis is a great place for a
family. As always, there are pros and cons to the situation.
Vern
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Dec 11, 2006 - 07:05pm PT
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Mike,
That is such an awesome photo of Vern on Last of the Gohegans. Thanks for posting that. I will never forget that day when we all busted up to Indian Country. That was quite a group...
(edit) As I recall we were Vern, Mike Morley, Dave Evans, Bob Passerini, AJ, Tom Murphy and myself.
Vern will be remembered fondly for his indominitable spirit.
Kris
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Mike Morley
climber
Nederland, CO
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Dec 11, 2006 - 08:35pm PT
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Kris,
AJ took that picture the day all of us were up at Indian Country. Even though it was almost 3 years ago, I remember it as if it were yesterday. Vern dragged me up that "Last of the Gohegans" route that I nearly pooped my pants on. I was so afraid he would fall before clipping that bolt and pull us both into the chasm below (note the look of desperation on my face in that shot). We also did that "Flamboyant Arrow" one that he and Bob had done a few months prior and some other stuff. What a great day.
Vern was talking about the "featherless peacock" that day and I found myself just the other day remembering that term and cracking up. He had such a great wit about him. He'll truly be missed.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 11, 2006 - 09:01pm PT
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No! This is just unbelievable - 2006 has just been an incredibly hard year.
Vern was an absolute breath of fresh air for climbing at Beacon Rock in recent years. He'd come up and just storm around the place getting on all the neglected hard routes and sending with no fuss, no muss - just get on stuff and send. Seemed like the nicest guy as well the times I've talked with him. I've been preoccupied with healing my shoulder and doing the anchor replacement project for the last two seasons and had hoped to be able to try and hook up (and keep up) with him in the coming year. A real loss to us all and he will be sorely missed up in our little corner of the world.
I'm completely and utterly bummed by this news...
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Dec 11, 2006 - 10:03pm PT
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Vern climbed some of the more out of the way routes at Index. Once I asked him for feedback (guidebook)on ratings and he said he would get back to me. Usually despite good intentions things get in the way and you don't ever get a reply. I was very surprised when after a couple weeks I received several emails from Vern with well thought out corrections, suggestions and comments. His enthusiasm and excitement for climbing will be missed.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 11, 2006 - 10:56pm PT
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Here's a picasa2 corrected version...
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ent
climber
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Dec 12, 2006 - 05:37pm PT
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I am not a climber but was a friend and colleauge of Vern's here in Corvallis. He tried to get me out climbing and I tried to get him to do a triathlon. He was an amazing entomologist. I am in shock.
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Mike Morley
climber
Nederland, CO
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Dec 12, 2006 - 07:11pm PT
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I think we are all shocked and deeply saddened by what has taken place. I compiled this short slideshow of some of Vern's climbing exploits that I thought might help folks remember him in the environment he loved most. He was a unique and talented individual and will be very much missed by all who knew him.
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Slider_up
Ice climber
Irvine, CA
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Dec 12, 2006 - 10:25pm PT
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I had the unfortunate experience of just hearing this news from a friend in Washington about an hour ago.
Most of you on here don't know me as I have been away from the climbing scene last few years doing. . .other stuff. But Vern and I are what I consider to be good friends. I started climbing with him about 10 years ago when I was in college and he was a professor at Pacific Lutheran University. Since he left California my communication with him has been limited to phone calls every few months.
Back in the day, I learned a ton about climbing technique from him and also cardio endurance training; the guy was a phenomenal athlete no doubt. He was someone I looked up to deeply. At the same time, he was at times an overly intense guy that drove me nuts. His level of intellect made him the way he was; he absolutely detested bullshit and would openly call bullshit when he saw it. I respected that. It was one of the reasons I chose to be friends with him. Alot of my friends struggled with his level of intensity. I embraced it as goal oriented and enlightening.
If it wasn't raining I could always count on him storming in to my house at 5 AM on a Saturday and proudly announce that we were heading to Index for some "Killer crack climbing J-Boy!"
When he first moved to WA from Boulder he had only been climbing a short time but was already an outstanding climber. At the time he wasn't a very experienced trad climber at all and would borrow my rack until he got his own. This is funny to me because although I was the more experienced climber then, he was by far much better than I. At that time he didn't know much about setting gear/anchors. Most of his experience had been bolted sport routes. Once he got a #3 Camalot nearly permanently stuck on I believe "Sagatarius" at Index. He lauged. I didn't because the cam was mine and he pounded the sh#t out of it with a big wall hammer while removing it.
I owe a big thanks to Vern for teaching me how to be intense. He taught me alot about how to train hard and pursue goals.
Vern, you were a pain in the ass but I loved ya for it. I'm sorry for Tara and your kids that you made this decision. I really wish you would have really told me what was on your mind that last time we spoke.
I guess we'll never get to make that jump together we talked about afterall.
. . . .I am certain that our paths will cross again one these days.
RIP brother.
Your pal,
JP
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ent
climber
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Dec 12, 2006 - 11:27pm PT
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Vern-intense? Indeed!
Again, not a climber, only have endurance, but just heard that we (grad student, Vern, myself, another professor) just won presentation competition at our national meeting. Vern, I miss sharing this small joyous occasion with you.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Dec 12, 2006 - 11:58pm PT
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My dear friend AJ Burch (otherwise known as The Mighty Thor) had told me numerous times about his psyched friend Vern, who now lived in Oregon. One of my favorite workouts is to hike up to Midnight Rock in Leavenworth, WA and solo-toprope ROTC, and often Steven's Pass Motel and/or Spellbound. I almost never see other climbers up there, I guess the hideous hike keeps out the riff-raff. So a couple years ago I hike up there and to my surprise hear voices. I continue the hike to the top (hideous, like I said) and set up my raps. First is off a giant tree at the summit (I maintain ropes on this every year) to chains at the top of ROTC. To my further suprise, I hear someone below me leading ROTC. I peek over to make sure, and wait. Shortly an incredibly psyched climber shows up to announce that he has onsighted the route. Freaking cool! I congratulate him and chat a bit, he figures out that I am AJ's friend who lives in East Wenatchee. No way! Climbing is so great that way, you run into people in the most crazy places. That was so fun, I'm so sad to hear that he is no longer with us. That last photo posted was taken at Midnight Rock, I'm pretty sure the same day I'm talking about. It sure seems like there have been a lot of climber's who have taken there own lives. How dismal and ironic, I wonder why this would be? I have some theories, but I just realized that they are not appropriate here. This is simply a terrible tragedy, my heartfelt condolences to all.
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Slider_up
Ice climber
Irvine, CA
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Dec 13, 2006 - 12:25am PT
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Yeah the suicide thing really sucks. It is a problem in other adrenaline sports. I am into parachutes and needless to say there have been some suicides in the BASE and Skydiving communities. For me it's very difficult to understand.
I remember when I did my first BASE jump Vern was one of the first people I called. I knew with his overwhelming enthusiasm for these things he would no doubt be interested in hearing about my experience.
His response: "Be careful J-Boy cause the old man still has a thing or two to teach you on the rock!"
Vern was always so careful, even when he was pushing hard. He was never reckless; he was very good at calculating what he felt was an acceptable amount of risk.
I'm still just shocked about this whole thing.
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Megan McKenzie
climber
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Dec 13, 2006 - 01:33am PT
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Thank you to all who've posted a reply. Vern was my friend. We taught together this fall. I suspected he was considering this but I didn't call him on it. He has been in so much pain, so hard on himself for being human. We talked about spirit the last time we were together. I tried to express that beliefs are about what we do not feel, and so they aren't important. That having open hearts connects us all. He loved Smith Rocks, and I so hope that he felt connected with its beauty during his final moments. And I am grateful that his pain is over. I'm so sad, and so sorry...
Megan
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quasitrad
Trad climber
Corvallis, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2006 - 02:20am PT
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Megan, I know your pain. When I told Tara that I saw some warning signs and regretted not intervening she said, "yeah, you and about 30 other people". I also saw Vern receeding and thought it was odd and wondered about it but figured he just needed some space to figure things out. I thought, well he's just dropping out of Corvallis and planning on moving back to the LA area. He told me he was thinking about leaving at the end of the term in December. I thought he meant leaving Corvallis not checking out.
At one point I told him that I hoped that he wouldn't do anything stupid and he asked me what I meant. I told him that I was worried about him being careless with his climbing and he shrugged his shoulders.
Bottom line, I didn't think he was that desperate. I could imagine him underprotecting a climb but I didn't consider he would take his life like that. I can't help second-guessing my own motivations for not seeking him out. Murf touched a nerve when he said that he wished he had been here to help when I was here and I didn't help. To some degree I think we all feel like we could have done more and we should have done more. Ultimately though, it was Vern's choice.
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air
Social climber
Australia
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Dec 13, 2006 - 02:39am PT
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To Vern's friends and family, our deepest condolences. I do not know Vern personally, but his sister Patty is a very dear friend. She sent us this website to view in honor of her Brother. We have read all your stories and are very sad we never met him. I just wanted to send our love and support from Australia/ Saipan to all of you who have clearly lost a dear friend, peer, mentor, Brother.
A sad reminder to keep our hearts open and listening like ears for all those we cherish, even though, as the previous post said, the ultimate decision lies within. Sending Love and Support
Jane and Glenn, Queensland, Australia.
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Hangerlessbolt
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Dec 13, 2006 - 03:39am PT
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A few years ago, I was going through something similar.
I’d spent a considerable amount of time pushing people away from me; though, at the time I hadn’t consciously realized what I was doing.
I started taking sleeping pills and so began my journey.
I’d get off of work, go home, pop pills, and pass out until I had to be at work the next day.
A few people made mention of a noticeable shift in my demeanor, but I shrugged it off.
I stopped climbing, stopped hanging out with friends…I knew I was manic depressive, but I’d always been able to ‘deal’ with it.
A four-day weekend rolled around and I began my ritual…pop pills, wake up, pop more pills…until I had to be at work.
During one of my ‘pseudo-awake’ moments…I thought to myself, “Why not just finish the bottle? No one would even know…no one would even care.”
I’d always had suicidal thoughts, but this was the first time I had put myself in a position of following through with it.
For whatever reason, I opted to not…and as soon as I was conscious enough to do so, I called my doctor. I told him, “If I don’t get help now…I’m going to kill myself.”
Long story short and a sh#t-load of therapy later…I got better.
In my mind, I was all alone…total tunnel vision. In reality, there were a ton of people who would have been absolutely devastated.
I hope wherever he's gone that his trip was safe and that he's at peace.
-RB
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peggy
climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 13, 2006 - 11:00am PT
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My name is Peggy. I am Vern's younger sister. Although I am deeply saddened at this time, it brings me joy to read this forum and to know that Vern impacted so many lives in such a positive way. He was an amazing big brother - always encouraging me to eat healthy food, get on my bike and above all enjoy and respect nature. I have fond memories of hiking with him and discovering bugs - he would pick them up, examine closely and then describe to me the unique attributes of each one. As a child growing up he gave each of our three dogs a crazy nickname (something it appears he did with many of you). Spirited and intense he was, kind and thoughtful in so many ways.
It was Vern's wish to have his body donated to science - our family has agreed to donate it to the Oregon Heath and Science University in Portland. We also plan to have a private ceremony In J Tree to celebrate his life.
We thank everyone for their thoughts and kind words.
Rest in peace Vern, we love you.
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holdenhh
climber
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Dec 13, 2006 - 12:51pm PT
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I'm sorry to see Vern go. He a very close friend, mentor, confidant, and inspiration. Whenever we were together no matter what my mood, I always ended in a good one. We had so many great climbing stories together in different places that I cannot recount them all. ...identifying insects, or getting lost in the dark (as all climbing days ended in the dark), pealing potato chips off new climbs, hiking forever to get to a location, he Tara and Quin stopping by for homebrews in the evenings, pulling 40 routes in a night (almost every gym night), many many meals at Crossroads.
He had an amazing zest for giving 110% and a passion that wouldn't quit. Clinging desperately to any climb, the bolder the better, was his forte. So many times I would be cringing watching him methodically and calmly working his way through some crazy crux section. I miss him just talking about all this and wish that I had done more to help him. His smiling and laughing face will be with me always. Most of the Josh pictures on MtnProject-Josh of him were from me, but I've posted some additional pictures of him here:
http://www.h3.cc/index.php?d=main.php&gdir=061212Vern
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ShirkeyBird
Mountain climber
Oregon
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Dec 13, 2006 - 02:58pm PT
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I've shared belays w/ vern at the gym and out a smith many times. He was frequently at the OSU gym wearing out partners and was always happy to share a ride w/ anybody regardless of their climbing ability.
He was a driven climber and accomplished more climbing that most of us ever will.
I am very sadden by this news...all the best to his family in this difficult time.
Paul
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cby
Trad climber
Salina, KS
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Dec 13, 2006 - 04:14pm PT
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I first met Vern when I was in junior high in the mid-1980s. I was a beginning bike racer, and Vern worked in the local shop. I wonder if he ever spoke about the years he lived in central Kansas and what he did there? I haven't spoken with Vern for about 10 years, but that doesn't mean that he didn't have a significant impact on who I am and how I see the world. There weren't very many people in my hometown that listened to The Smiths REALLY loud and refused to drive a car. Calling the man unique doesn't even begin to describe him.
So I got to know Vern via bike racing. He never entered any of the races, but he was as competitive as they got. He always pushed himself and those around him as hard as he could, which as many of you know, was very hard. I remember all the weeknight training rides that the group would go on- how Vern would tear up all the local racers while riding his commuter bike with the pannier racks still on. Years after this we reconnected, and Vern got me started rock climbing. Our training ground was the side of Memorial Stadium at Kansas State University, where we toproped on the 2-story limestone exterior. This was in the early 1990s.
I'm not going to fill this thread w/ my Vern stories; I guess we all have ours. I'm looking forward to meeting some of you in J-Tree this weekend so we can trade tales. I know very little of what happened to him after he left Kansas.
He was different, that's for sure. And we loved him for it. I, too, wish I could have been there for him when he needed help. I wish I could give back some of what he's given me.
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cby
Trad climber
Salina, KS
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Dec 13, 2006 - 04:17pm PT
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Ok, one quick story:
The last time I saw Vern was about 10 years ago. The first question I asked him was "So, what music are you listening to these days?"
He replied, "You know me, Chris....HIGH ENERGY MUSIC!!"
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quasitrad
Trad climber
Corvallis, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2006 - 05:13pm PT
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Or how about Modest Mouse? He had me singing, "100 Miles Is A REALLY Long Way To Drive" (or somesuch) and I don't even like Modest Mouse. And he knew it!
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BMPD
Sport climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 13, 2006 - 05:21pm PT
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Vern was one of my best friends. We spent the last 3 years climbing together in the Gym at Oregon State University, and most of the climbing areas around Oregon. Vern is the only reason why I am climbing today. I met him probably the second time I went to the gym to try out climbing. Two days after we met, he took me outside to climb. After that day we climbed together 2-3 times a week for the last 3 years, except for this last fall term of school because I was no longer in Corvallis. He was a mix between a best friend and a big brother figure. He taught me things that I otherwise would have never learned in my life. We went on crazy adventures and had a lot of deep conversations. I wish he knew how much I appreciate all he has done for me. Vern I will always miss you
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Slider_up
Ice climber
Irvine, CA
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Dec 13, 2006 - 05:56pm PT
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Yeah he also liked alot of good punk. Dead Kennedy's and Minor Threat to name a couple. He especially liked Bad Religion.
He would always get in my truck and immediately start looking through CD's in search of the loudest, most obnoxious sh#t he could find. After he found what he wanted he would absolutely crank it up and say "That's what I'm talking about J-Boy!"
I'm really gonna miss those times. . . .
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flojo
climber
california
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Dec 13, 2006 - 06:02pm PT
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uncle expando will miss you. to his kids i will be always here for you, any time any place.
adios vern
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Freddie G.
Sport climber
Corvallis, OR
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Dec 13, 2006 - 07:12pm PT
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It's interesting how I thought that I was one of Vern's "special" climbing partners. You know, one of the few that he showed interest in. In reality it appears from all these posts that he made all his climbing partners feel this way. That was one of the many awesome things about Vern. He had endless knowledge that he was willing to share with anyone who was willing to accept it. I learned so much from him, and I'm extremely thankful that I had the opportunity to spend time with him.
The man was extremely passionate about what ever he was doing. His boundless energy and enthusiam was refreshing.
I'll miss you Vern, but I'll make sure I pass on the lessons you have taught me.
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ent
climber
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Dec 13, 2006 - 10:15pm PT
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I won't be at JT this weekend but will think of all of you that are there sharing memories of Vern. I still can't believe that I won't hear him say, 'Kimberly, really?' or have me peer through a microscope at an insect that I have NO clue what it is and say 'Isn't that cool? Have you ever seen anything like it? What do you think it is?'. I would just smile and say 'I have no clue. So what's been going on these days?' knowing the next hour would fly by.
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staalbird
climber
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Dec 14, 2006 - 02:40am PT
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Many friends have so far described Vern's incredible spirit. Here are some of my stories: Vern arrived in Humboldt for our wedding (I am married to his sister Patty living now here in Micronesia) and upon finding out that we were to be married in an old growth grove 45 miles from our house in Trinidad, he began completely overhauling my mountain bike while listening to the Clash. Up until late at night he left pre dawn for the wedding site on my bike, relishing the endorphins over the use of fossil fuels, and arriving before all of us. I came to realize that this was really a mainstay of his character; while many of us talk about living PC, Vern was an absolute doer, with no bullshit in between.
On a subsequent trip walking together down a suburban street in Boulder with my son and I, Vern suddenly with a loud exclamation, pointing to a bush, then getting down on hands and knees (while cars rushed by) and for the next 10 min. super enthusiastically described the entire evolution of this BUG clinging to an inner root of the plant.
The essence of Vern as I experienced him was just this raw intensity of living life fully and not wasting too much time on
(or any time !) on anything that isn't vital. I look at the pictures put on this site of him up on the rock and its all there. Its clearly where he felt fully present and fully vital.
We talked about that once; How contained within the present moment is this incredible power, and his relating that it was on the rock that his concentration became so intense that everything that didn't matter was pushed outside the confines of the 3 or 4 square fee of just him and the rock.
The last time I saw him (two summers ago) he was harvesting these organic carrots that he had grown in his back yard. They were beautifully big, deep orange. He handed me one and locked his eyes with mine and with that big grin said, "Do you believe
it !!!! TASTE IT ! TASTE IT !"
Mark Staal
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 14, 2006 - 12:25pm PT
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As a follow-up to the Memorial for Vern:
If you can, bring a disc with any photos of Vern you would like to share; we will have a digital projector at the Community Center.
A number of people are flying into Ontario airport on Saturday or Sunday. I'd be happy to try to put people in touch with each other to share rides to Josh.
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BMPD
Sport climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 14, 2006 - 07:13pm PT
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Vern was such a great mentor to me, and I have learned so much from him. There was still so much more that I wanted to learn from him. He would always tell me about Jtree, and now that I will be down there for the memorial, I would love to climb some of Verns favorites, and some of the ones that he did FA's on. I would also like to hike out to the crag that is named after him and climb some of those routes too. I might only ever make it to Jtree this one time, so I am going to climb it how Vern has always showed me: 20 routes a day, and running from one climb to the next. Is there anyone who has climbed there with Vern available to climb on Mon or Tues, or both?
-BD
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a.s.
Big Wall climber
SF, CA
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Dec 14, 2006 - 08:35pm PT
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did Vern teach at St. Olaf college in MN about 10 yrs ago or so?
edit:
I thought I recognized him -- we went climbing just once at Taylor's Falls, east of the twin cities.
He was a really great guy, I'm sorry to hear the news.
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Verns Sister
climber
Saipan Micronesia
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Dec 14, 2006 - 11:00pm PT
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Hi, I'm Vern's sister, Patty, and would like everyone know how much your memories and stories and thoughts regarding Vern have helped me through the rollercoaster of emotions I am experiencing. First shock/sadness to guilt/remorse to acceptance/peace, then back to the top to start all over again. It has been surreal, like out of a novel..... part of what makes it harder for me is that I am so far away living in Micronesia. So, everyone's stories have helped me stay connected.
I’m stoked (vern always laughed when I used that term) that you are holding a memorial at Joshua Tree and that so many are planning to be there! I will be there in spirit and am sending a story of my own to share. Thank you also for combining the mourning (for there is no way out of it but to go through it) with a celebration of his passage into perhaps the biggest adventure we have all yet to take!
Thanks again, and Vern,
I love you, Bro! Patty
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Elisa Shackelton
climber
Craig, CO
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Dec 15, 2006 - 01:59pm PT
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Thank you SO much for the wonderful memories of Vern and testimonies of friendship that everyone is sharing on this forum. Your comments are making a huge contribution toward the healing process for all of Vern's family members and friends, especially those of us who haven't gotten to spend much time with him in the past few years. This year, Vern's 3 oldest children turned 16 (Clara), 18 (Mike) and 21 (Jenna). Several of you got to meet the kids on various rock climbing adventures on which they spent a week with their Dad, Tara and Quinlan in California or Oregon--they will cherish these memories for as long as they live. Thanks to each of you who spent time with Vern, and shared a piece of yourself (or your climbing equipment, car stereo, music, etc.)with him...I know you meant the world to Vern!
Elisa
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Slider_up
Ice climber
Irvine, CA
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Dec 15, 2006 - 02:03pm PT
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Yes.
Vern taught at St. Olaf for a brief period in before moving to Washington I believe.
JP
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rfxs
climber
Bozeman, MT
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Dec 15, 2006 - 05:57pm PT
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I first met Vern when he took a position as a visiting professor at Whitman College in Walla Walla, Washington during the Fall of 1999. I signed up for the required ecology class not expecting it to direct my career path in the way it eventually did. At the end of the first semester of my sophomore year, I vividly remember talking with Vern about signing up for his special topics course on entomology. I told him I didn’t think I could make the 8 am class three days a week. I asked him if it was going to be cool…and he gave me one of those Vern like responses…Of course it is going to be cool Reecheee! He had such a unique enthusiasm for everything that there was no way I couldn’t sign up for the class. His extraordinary enthusiasm for insects and life and learning made me want be passionate and intense. I would show up 15 min. late for the 8am class – my eyes still glued together with sleep, often hung-over and he would stop lecturing and exclaim “Reecheee, you made it!” I even remember a time that he called me in the morning from the college radio show at 7:30 asking if I was awake yet or not. He broke the mold of a college entomology professor and there is not doubt in my mind that I am a more complete person because of his mentoring and friendship.
I am meeting with a friend of mine today that was lucky enough to take the same entomology class and we both can’t think of a professor we had during college that has stuck with us in the same way that Vern did. My heart goes out to all of the people that have known Vern in all the different contexts of his life.
Rick "Reechee" Smith
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Jay Bancroft
Social climber
Bakersfield, CA
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Dec 15, 2006 - 09:59pm PT
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Hi friends of Vern,
I am so sad and sorry to hear about Vern. He was such a true dude, and I’ve missed him since leaving KSU. I wish I got to spend some time with him over the last years. He was right out here (I live in Bakersfield) and I didn’t know it :-( He didn’t keep up with Ento folks, but we talked about him each year at ESA meetings (the KSU mixer was last Monday). What I am feeling right now is hard to put into words. RIP. I will try to make it to JT, but either way I'd enjoy catching up with some of the folks in the future to commemorate Vern.
Jay Bancroft (661)344.2208
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mark
climber
san diego, ca
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Dec 15, 2006 - 10:33pm PT
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Vern was it, he had the first word on the 5.11 and 5.12 testpieces in JT. I will always remember his note to me re: Iron Maiden in JT. (not precise, loosing mind) this is a good route and solid 5.11d, MAN, if you have climbed it, you know it's darn hard and Vern knows the good JT routes. Rock on...
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Draft Horse
climber
Manitou Springs, CO
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Dec 15, 2006 - 11:57pm PT
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I first met Vern in a junior high baseball game, met him by giving up a hit and a few runs batted in to him. We later played on the same team in high school where we hit it off and became fast friends. At Indian Rock near his home in Evergreen we watched the city lights of Denver and vehemently condemned the city and its cars and smog and light, drinking beer we 'borrowed' from his dad's keg. Watching the full moon rise we howled like coyotes with delight. Now I howl in sadness and shock.
Vern led me into loving many of my current passions. Gardening, farming, botany, canning. He always was asking me to 'Check it out! Check it out!' with a huge grin and laugh. In Kansas we rode all over the plains and he was always exclaiming at the beauty. I'm so sad to know I'll never here that exclamation again. Or here one of his nicknames, ie draft horse or spittlebug.Vern I wish we could of had one more ride together.
-Mark Slater
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Michel Cavigelli
climber
Greenbelt, Maryland
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Dec 16, 2006 - 05:00pm PT
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Hi,
I am not a climber and probably will never be but I am very grateful for all those who have shared their stories and photos about Vern. Sounds like he was still the same intense, driven, funny, honest, loud music-loving, nature-loving, idea-spouting, low environmental impact, unique guy I first met in 1985 when we were both interns at The Land Institute in Salina, Kansas. (In his memory, I'm blasting Talking Heads, which, along with Butthole Surfers (before they became popular) and Skinny Puppy, was perhaps his favorite band in 1985).
The news of Vern's death comes as a shock. I would never have expected Vern to take his life. He was so full of energy and wanted to share all the joy he experienced with everyone around him. ISN'T THAT COOL, MICHEL?? MICHEL?? he'd badger me about insects, music, whatever caught his attention. He was too much at times but I loved him and he was an inspiration for his committment and intensity. I still find it hard to believe. It made no sense to me. When another intern at the Land committed suicide a few years after we were there, Vern and I talked and he could not understand how someone could do that. When the world is so full of wonder, how could someone kill themselves, hw would ask? And now, he has. The comments I read on the web from those of you who knew him well, esp. recently, were very helpful to give me an idea why he might have done this and in retrospect it makes some sense from the perspective of manic-depression. But still...I wish I could have experienced his intensity some more. Your comments, helped me relive the joy of being with him. Thanks.
I spoke with another intern from 1985 upon hearing the news and she remembered the same lines from Talking Heads' "Stay up Late", that he loved to sing to us soon after the birth of one of his children: "He's just a little plaything, Why not wake him up, Cute Cute little baby, little pee-pee, little toes...baby, baby, please let me hold you..we want to make him stay up all night". We both have those words embedded in our brains thanks to Vern.
I had not spoken with him for more than 10 years but I always think of him when I listen to Talking Heads. I had tried to Google him a number of times in the last few years to touch base but no current information seemed to pop up. Now his name pops up right away. I'm grateful to those of you who have written in to fill in some of the details of his life since we both left Kansas (we were both in grad school at Kansas State U together, too). I remember him climbing the field house. He insisted that I join him and I'll remember him for his intensity that you have all captured so well in your comments. I missed him before I learned of his death and will now miss him forever. I'm very sad.
I'm so sorry for his family but was very happy to hear from Elisa that his older kids were able to spend some quality time with him doing what he loves this past summer. My thoughts and prayers are with you Elisa and kids and all his family members.
Michel
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osmiumtet
Social climber
KY
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Dec 16, 2006 - 08:48pm PT
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Hi all,
I went to grad school with Vern back at Kansas State. Like other people I lost touch with him, but always thought about him every so often. He was a passonate guy and I wish I stayed in better touch with him. I remember the time I road bikes with him and also the one time he had me hanging off the side of the old stadium at KSU. Miss you buddy..
Roland Hilgarth
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inhisfootsteps
Sport climber
the
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Dec 16, 2006 - 08:55pm PT
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Sincere condolences to family and friends. You are all in my thoughts-
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Slider_up
Ice climber
Irvine, CA
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Dec 18, 2006 - 11:15am PT
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"Vern and I talked and he could not understand how someone could do that. When the world is so full of wonder, how could someone kill themselves, hw would ask? And now, he has"
----------------------------------------------------
When I first heard the news I tried to call Tara and ended up reaching her Mom. At the time I was very angry with Vern about his decision. But in a few simple words she quelled my anger when she said "He was sick! And that's all that can be said."
It's hard to imagine the pain depression can cause unless you've been there. I have, but probably not anywhere near what Vern was experiencing. It can and will make you do things you wouldn't otherwise do during healthy times. Coming to grips with this concept has definately calmed a great deal of my frustration with this situation.
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ent
climber
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Dec 18, 2006 - 12:12pm PT
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I too was angry, sometimes still am, and have been told by others that I will probably be off and on for a long time. Sure I can understand someone saying Vern was sick. Having spent time with him in Corvallis, however, I can also say that he experienced a 'snowball effect' of one bad thing after another. I have spent hours thinking about the past few months of his life and concluded, sick or not, it would have taken a heck of a lot for anyone to recover from the consecutive blows he experienced. I miss him and wish him peace.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 19, 2006 - 01:51pm PT
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We would like to thank the many friends of Vern that traveled from far and wide (by car and plane) to remember the wonderful man that was Vern Stiefel. Conditions were appropriately "challenging." At one point, a few scattered snowflakes fell among us. Vern would not have been dissuaded from getting in some good routes.
It was very powerful to hear people speak, and later to confide in and share with others. For me, it felt like a process of healing could begin -- and perhaps I could begin to forgive myself for not having done more for Vern. Many of us are grappling with guilt.
Perhaps Vern is still teaching me a lesson: To show more compassion and to reach out to share with others. Life is precious, perhaps more than we know.
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ent
climber
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Dec 19, 2006 - 01:59pm PT
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Thank you for posting the photos.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Dec 19, 2006 - 04:24pm PT
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I wish I could think of something to say that would ring as unique and original as Vern's personality. Everybody is sad, some are mad, yes, me too. I would have never believed he could take his own life. Dammit Vern.
Vern brought so much great energy to our intermingled posse of possessed trad J Tree backcountry FA explorers. He had an unbridled enthusiasm for climbing and rarely ever found a route to be a "pile." Just like us he loved the grit AND the varnish, loose rock was a good thing, good rock a great thing. Long hikes, short hikes, runouts, good pro, cracks, face, WHATEVER!, all part of good days tromping around in the desert.
The last time we spoke the Stiefel's were staying with us on a so. cal visit. Vern and I talked climbing for hours. He probed my memory for details of routes from long ago and I fed off his enthusiasm and passion and what seemed like an untouchable love of life. He always left me buzzing like a good double cup of expresso.
Yes Vern, you bet you will be missed! At least you left us with a new and rare bird species, maybe as rare as the Ivory Billed Woodpecker, the "Featherless Peacock" will live on.
See yaaaaa!
David Evans
Sorry the Evans's couldn't make the memorial.
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Jay Bancroft
Social climber
Bakersfield, CA
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Dec 27, 2006 - 05:48pm PT
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I am bummed I couldn't make the trek to JTree (...weather, plane East the next day...). If you come through Bakersfield, it'd be good to grab a brew and toast Vern.
Jay
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Dolly Vegan Wannabe
climber
Irvine, CA
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Dec 28, 2006 - 09:41pm PT
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I've been a member of Rockreation Costa Mesa for almost 9 years. Although I was not acquainted with Vern, I often saw him and Tara climbing the lead routes at my gym. I read about his passing two weekends ago and offer my condolences to his family and friends.
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ent
climber
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This time each year I feel very sad. I can't believe 3 years have past...there have been many times I wish I could ask someone advise about a peacock with no feathers.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Quinlan (Stiefel) and Jake (Evans) while we were terrorizing Tom Sawyer's island a few weeks ago.
ps. Both these boys are climbers.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 24, 2010 - 05:24am PT
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Was thinking today how Beacon hasn't been quite the same without Vern gracing us with a couple of visits each season...
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Murf
climber
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Mar 22, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
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We walked out with at least an hour of daylight left, we talked about the fact that Vern would have never allowed it!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Mar 22, 2010 - 03:38pm PT
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Vern would consider an hour of daylight (and that half hour of dusk) to be wasted by the walk out -- even from the most remote locale. We have grown soft without his constant tutelage.
I'm not ashamed to say that re-reading this thread 3+ years later has me in tears and motivated to reform my slackish ways at the same time. Vern's power to affect me has not diminished.
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Maso
climber
Vsenory (near Prague), Czech Republic
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I am from the Czech Republic (Europe). I climbed with Vern in the Autumn 2000 - Williamson Rock, JT and some other areas around LA where I stayed for a year for my sabbatical. Then I had to stop climbing because of problems with my shoulder, then a family came it, so it is only now I am returning back at least to bouldering. It is Saturday 2 am here and don't know why I had the terrible idea to google the name of my friend far West...........
My English is too poor to be able to say what I feel... So sorry for Tara and Quinlan
I will maybe write some my memories or find some old pictures at some point, but now I can't
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Maso, welcome to SuperTopo and please do write about Vern if you can - he's much missed around these parts.
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Maso
climber
Vsenory (near Prague), Czech Republic
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May 13, 2011 - 05:17pm PT
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Here are some pictures from 2000-2001, sorry for not good quality, they were taken with the old technology and I had to scan the original paper print outs.
Once at the entrance to JTree I bought 20 postcards for my climbing friends. Vern told me he was surprised how many friends I had - well, now I must say I am amazed how many his friends reacted so quickly and created this long reading. I read through this forum and have very little to add as all the stories describe Vernon as I knew him. Enthusiastic, with seemingly inexhaustible energy, excited about small things such as aluminium spoon or some for me totally ordinary herbs. He was listening to Bauhaus and I laughed at him because of his pronunciation - impossible to describe in written, but I was expecting someone with such a German surname to pronounce it in the original language. If I remember well, Vern's father was from a German family from the town of Brno in the former Czechoslovakia.
I was connected with Vernon with a rope and in my mind will remain.
It is very said to realize that when I eventualy come back to the US, I cannot call him any more. But I want to believe he is fine now.
Stay in piece, friend
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Friend
climber
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May 13, 2011 - 05:47pm PT
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Great photos Maso. The Josh routes are Alf's Arete, Tax man, and Scary Poodles.
Here is another, Vern on Total Generic Package, with Tara & Quinlan. RIP my friend.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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May 14, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
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Vern lives.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 14, 2011 - 03:25pm PT
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Thanks Maso, between Vern and Jim Anglin, we lost a couple of remarkably talented and inspiring climbers in a short period and Oregon hasn't been the same without them...
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Vernon Leo Stiefel
June 8, 1961 -- December 8, 2006
“When we get out of the glass bottles of our ego,
and when we escape like squirrels turning in the
cages of our personality
and get into the forests again,
we shall shiver with cold and fright
but things will happen to us
so that we don't know ourselves.
Cool, unlying life will rush in,
and passion will make our bodies taut with power,
we shall stamp our feet with new power
and old things will fall down,
we shall laugh, and institutions will curl up like
burnt paper.”
― D.H. Lawrence
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ent
climber
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Dec 18, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
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RIP-Vern!
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ent
climber
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I miss Vern and think of him often. At the ESA annual meeting this past November his name was mentioned during the Linnaean Games.
Rest in Peace my good friend.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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I woke today thinking of Vern and how I have missed him these 6 years.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Vern is sorely missed. Ditto Jim Anglin and Mark Cartier. Hard to imagine having lost three of Oregon's best in such a short span of time. Condolences.
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Maso
climber
Vsenory (near Prague), Czech Republic
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Dec 27, 2012 - 03:58am PT
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Always think of Vernon in December time
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 10, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
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It has been seven years since Vern's passing, but I still think of him often and miss him.
Styling on Powered By Old English 5.11d, Joshua Tree.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 10, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
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Miss seeing you....
Time passes so quickly
rest
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Dec 10, 2013 - 08:00pm PT
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This story has always stuck with me though I never knew or was in any way associated with Vern.
We all go through black spots.
Vern's story helps me to remember that the rocks are always there, waiting to clear my mind, to instill in me a love for the capacity of my body to move over the stone.
You are remembered Vern.
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ent
climber
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I miss your truth, honesty, and humor. RIP my friend.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Eight years ago today we lost Vern. You spirit still lives in our hearts.
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ent
climber
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Vern, I remember you and miss you. Your work is still moving the biological control of HWA effort forward. Linnaean games were good this year. Rest in peace my dear friend.
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Maso
climber
Vsenory (near Prague), Czech Republic
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Mar 30, 2015 - 09:41am PT
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You inspired me by how did you engage in local climbing communities first at JTree and then at Smith Rock.
Next week we with friends are opening a new small climbing area in the Czech Republic (your parents' "Vaterland") near Prague. Variety of all difficulties, couple of sport routes you would like. And yes, it's basaaalt!
Rest in piece Vernon.
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ent
climber
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Impact of his biological control work continues. He is not forgotten in the entomological world.
Rest in Peace
“When we get out of the glass bottles of our ego,
and when we escape like squirrels turning in the
cages of our personality
and get into the forests again,
we shall shiver with cold and fright
but things will happen to us
so that we don't know ourselves.
Cool, unlying life will rush in,
and passion will make our bodies taut with power,
we shall stamp our feet with new power
and old things will fall down,
we shall laugh, and institutions will curl up like
burnt paper.”
― D.H. Lawrence
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Vern on the First Ascent of Mulholland Drive 5.11c. Valley of Kings, North Wonderland, Joshua Tree. An obvious reference to the enigmatic David Lynch film.
Though it has been 9 years since we lost Vern, he is not far from our thoughts.
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ent
climber
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Each year, as this day approaches, I am surprised by my emotions. Fond memories that go back to the '90s to the very sad one a decade ago. We are still publishing work that you inspired, living dreams that you dared. I miss you. RIP.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Ent: Each December 8, I too am reminded of my good friend Vern and his passing, now 10 years ago.
The Woodshed, 5.11d, Joshua Tree
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Rest...
10 years, so fast, so much missed.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, ent, and to all his dear friends...
very sad, i am not sure? if i ever saw this news, years back...
i will keep you in my prayers, during this hard week of
the deeper remembrance, as to you reflect back, over these
last ten years, :(
sending a computer hug, to you... :(
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Yeah, seems unbelievable it's been 10 years.
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Maso
climber
Vsenory (near Prague), Czech Republic
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Dec 11, 2016 - 02:14pm PT
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Miss you Vernon
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Friend
climber
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Dec 12, 2016 - 11:11am PT
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It's hard to believe ten years have gone by. Those were wonderful days.
Be sure to let the people you care about know how important they are to you.
Vern liked this silhouette I snapped of him, new-routing high above Indian Cove. December 4, 2004. RIP Vern.
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ent
climber
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Dec 11, 2017 - 01:46pm PT
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Time has gone by so fast, but my fond memories of you remain with me. RIP my friend.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 11, 2017 - 07:18pm PT
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I still miss heading out to Beacon and running into Vern, Jim Anglin or Mark Cartier - you always new something special was up when any one of them were about.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Yesterday was Vern's birthday, same as our youngest. A dynamic force who left us too soon.
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Maso
climber
Vsenory (near Prague), Czech Republic
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Miss you Vern
Btw wondering why some of the pictures in the thread are disappearing
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ent
climber
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12 years since we lost our good friend, Vern. I often think of his children and hope they remember/know that Vern had so much energy and cared so deeply about so many things but like so many people that feel intensely, it all became too much.
I hope we all remember to stop, take time to reflect, and enjoy the moment while not worrying about next steps and what-ifs.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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It doesn't seem possible that 12 years have passed. A friend sent me the following picture he took today. Doing the first ascent with Vern of Spirited Away on this imposing north face of the Duncecap was an adventure that I will always cherish.
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Maso
climber
Vsenory (near Prague), Czech Republic
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May 27, 2019 - 11:28am PT
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My last post before this forum becomes an archive only.
RIP, still miss you Vern.
For those wanting for any reason to contact me the email is mmasat@seznam.cz.
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