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Messages 1 - 20 of total 30 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
all in jim

climber
Dec 6, 2016 - 09:54am PT
But can he climb The Wide???
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Dec 6, 2016 - 09:55am PT
has he done Gunks 5.10 with hexes and EBs?
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
Dec 6, 2016 - 09:58am PT
Perhaps more like - came to Yosemite, learned to trad climb - climbed a pre-placed gear sport-like type route. Still waiting for someone to climb the hard walls the way the common people climb trad - ala placing all your own gear. I mean what is the difference in clipping a preplaced draw on a nut on el cap vs clipping a bolt 2000 ft up in the dolomites. Hard climb without having to place gear is still sport climbing.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Dec 6, 2016 - 10:14am PT
Impressive to be sure, but as Adam himself mentioned putting up the FFA was more impressive.

Adam may be the strongest trad climber in the world, but he needs to put up trad FAs or FFAs to be the overall best IMO.
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Dec 6, 2016 - 10:14am PT
Jabba the Tut thinks the Dawn Wall is a sport climb? Deep thoughts from the guy shredding ropes wiTh a tibloc. Magic line? Who gives a sh#t if you're the best trad climber in the world? That thing was sport climbed too.

Honnold, croft and Potter? All great climbers with enviable style... but not as good as AO.
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Dec 6, 2016 - 10:14am PT
You pundits are surely taking the piss....

What makes any of you think, that Ondra thinks he's the best trad climber, or whatever?

Given his pretty obvious talent he's one of the most humble climbers around, and yet some seem unable to resist the snarky comments and comparisons. They don't do any of you any credit.

He did it, now purleeese get over it.

Steve
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Dec 6, 2016 - 10:18am PT
Kauk climbed magic line on pre-placed gear and rated it 14a I believe. I agree that climbing on pre placed gear is not true trad climbing, but it's also not pure sport climbing.

What do we call it... Sprad or Tort? Pinkpoint?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 6, 2016 - 11:22am PT
Rembrandt and Van Gogh are not the same.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 6, 2016 - 11:26am PT
That's just ridiculous...I just read on Dorkbook yesterday that Ashima Shiraishi is THE best climber in the world. Must be true.
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Dec 6, 2016 - 11:32am PT
Maybe we should ask her #whatsyourdawnwall?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 6, 2016 - 11:36am PT
I thought Norman Clyde was the best trad climber in the world?
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Dec 6, 2016 - 01:04pm PT
Man, where is Werner when you need him?
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Dec 6, 2016 - 01:11pm PT
FREE climbing is actually probably less and less of a percentage of overall climbing nowadays, given a large population PAYS to climb indoors now. Jus' sayin'... :-)

I agree with Alex Lowe. The best climber is the one having the most fun.

My personal old man pet peeve is the ongoing push by the recent generations of climbers to claim that any route protected solely by bolts is a "sport climb".
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Dec 6, 2016 - 01:30pm PT
All you older guys who use the term trad have ushered in a new generation of climbers who think free climbing means climbing with no rope. I've had to actually argue the point with people that consider themselves climbers. I'm about to give up on trying to educate starry eyed gym spawn as to WTF free climbing is.

Interesting point Kevin. I always considered myself a trad climber because I only used my own pro placed on lead or clipping in situ boltz. On reflection, was clipping bolts on the runouts at Suicide and Tahquitz really trad climbing?
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Dec 6, 2016 - 01:33pm PT
So aiding el cap is trad... but freeing it is not trad.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Dec 6, 2016 - 01:47pm PT
The basic problem with the term trad is that it derives from traditional, and that term was coined in response to sport climbing's appearance. Sport climbing has a clear cut definition.
Trad climbing doesn't.

It was always my thinking that trad climbing was ground up with gear placed on lead. Even aid was trad if it did not use gear placed on rappel or rehearsing routes on top rope.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Dec 6, 2016 - 01:47pm PT
Have you ever climbed El Cap? Caughtinside.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Dec 6, 2016 - 01:52pm PT
Well he would be if he does it a lot more.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Dec 6, 2016 - 02:26pm PT
What do we call it?
Pinkpoint?

You answered your own question.
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Dec 6, 2016 - 03:01pm PT
If you weight the anchors, ever (as in while belaying) is it still a free climb?

Yes. Next?

Curt
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