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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 29, 2017 - 01:54pm PT
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Got a new project for you, Kris.
I'm not sure what you mean there Dave, but if it's a Domelands guide, all I can say is:
Read my lips: no more guidebooks.
:-)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 29, 2017 - 02:36pm PT
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From Southern Sierra Rock Climbing
Sequoia/Kings Canyon
by Sally Moser, Greg Vernon, David Hickey
page 56 and 294...
Dinkey Dome
This rock is located about five miles upstream from the intersection of Dinkey creek Road and McKinley Grove Road. The 7,600-foot elevation allows comfortable climbing until late fall.
About 9¼ miles from Shaver Lake just past the Glen Meadow USFS facility, the partially paved and very potholed Rock Creek Road exits east from the Dinkey Creek Road. Follow this for 6 miles to where the road splits. Go right for 1.6 miles, crossing Cow Creek, then turn right again on a spur. Follow this for 2 miles to its end. From here, descend to Dinkey Creek, then over to the dome.
Note: seasonal road closures due to deer migration are likely in early season. Please respect any regulations and closures due to the protection of wildlife.
Routes A-D are on the north face, E-G on the northwest side, H-K on the west face.
A. Intimidator 5.7
B. Variation 5.7
C. Phantasmagoria 5.9-
D. Dinkey Was a Little Dog 5.10a
E. Hummingbird Dihedral 5.7 A2
F. Rinkey Dinkey 5.9+
G. Tamarack 5.8
H. Brown Streak 5.7
I. Dinkie's Twinkie 5.7
J. The Beveled Edge 5.6
K. Dinkey Classic 5.5
In addition to the listed routes, another climb is found in the center of Dinkey Dome. Welcome to Dinkey Dome (5.10c) ascends the prominent right-facing corner to the left of which is an arch. Two obvious gold dikes run up and left from the base of the rock below the arch. This route starts near the right dike and follows a series of flakes and ledges past several bolts to the top of a pedestal/right-facing corner and a two-bolt belay (165 feet 5.10a). The second pitch moves left below a corner past two bolts, then with a difficult move (crux) up to a series of ledges and overlaps for the second belay. From here, fourth class to the summit.
On the reverse side of the canyon across the creek is a crack climb called Sink Your Pinky Dinkey! that goes over a headwall at 5.9. To its right is a flake route. Upstream a short distance, a short sport-climbing wall with three bolted climbs in the .10+ range is found.
Intimidator 5.7 FA: Jeff Harris, Barry Chambers, 1986.
Variation 5.7 FA: Harris, Jeff Rush, 1986.
Phantasmagoria 5.9- FA: Chambers, Bill Friesen, 1987.
Dinkey Was a Little Dog 5.10a FA: Chambers, Leni Reeves, 1991.
Hummingbird Dihedral 5.7 A2 FA: Harris, Jeff Rush, 1986.
Rinkey, Dinkey 5.9+ FA: Chambers, Bruce Price, Len Singer, 1988.
Tamarack 5.8 FA: Ken Rose, Blaine Neely, 1985.
Brown Streak 5.7 FA: Harris, Chambers, 1986.
Dinkie's Twinkle 5.7 FA: Rose, Joe Ryan, 6-81 .
Dinkey Classic 5.5 FA: Harris, Chambers, 1986.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 29, 2017 - 03:50pm PT
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The route Steve McCabe and I did had no bolts or pins and is near route H. The fixed pins we saw must have been on Ken Rose's route as that route is the only route which pre-dates our route (1982). You would be hard pressed to find a route much harder than 5.8 on the low angle right side of the main face!
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